Ursa Wren (Rebels)
General Notes
This CRL is unique as it pertains to a canon character, Ursa Wren, as seen in the TV show Star Wars Rebels
Utilizing the provided reference pictures will be the best aid in an aspiring builder wanting to make a club approvable canon kit.
The color scheme must be followed and matched as closely as possible.
No “kit bashing” is allowed for canon kits.
Armor should have an appropriate level of weathering to match the on-screen version.
Snaps and velcro are the preferred method of attachment of armor parts. Magnets are discouraged. No method of attachment should be visible.
Armor
Painting and Weathering
The base color of the armor is light grey. A darker grey is used on sections of the helmet and gauntlets.
The patterns are a bright yellow with a line of lighter yellow around the edges. These yellows should match the source material as closely as possible.
Most patterns have a black or dark grey pinstriping line in between the light yellow and dark yellow.
Weathering should match the on-screen version as much as possible. Weathering is primarily where the paint has “worn away”, and so is silver (beskar-colored) or the underlying light grey. Some areas have the dark brown and black weathering of dirt. Weathering should not be so strong as to overwhelm the underlying design.
Helmet
Design is the “Wren Eyes” and should match the on-screen version. Note that the majority of the base color of the helmet is dark grey, rather than the light grey of the rest of the armor. The cheek pieces are light grey. Weathering is minimal.
Rangefinder does not have to be movable. Rangefinder should be attached in such a manner that it will not come off during normal use.
Visor should be smoke black; the wearer’s face should not be visible.
The helmet is relatively shorter and wider than live-action Mandalorian helmets. However, care should be taken to avoid a “bobble head” effect. The helmet should be no wider than half the wearer’s shoulders.
The neck should be entirely covered by soft parts despite the relative shortness of the helmet.
Torso
Torso pieces are neck front, neck back, breastplate, back plate, and ab plate. All should be shaped according to the source material.
The breastplate should go no lower than the wearer’s diaphragm. Some leeway is allowed in the shaping of the breastplate to the wearer’s bust.
There should be a “com badge” greeble on the upper left breastplate, painted light grey and black.
The ab plate should rest just below the breastplate and should not “sink in” compared to the breastplate. If padding is used to align the ab plate with the breastplate, it should not be visible.
There is approximately ½” of space between the neck front and the breastplate, and the neck back and back plate.
There should be at least 1” of space between the bottom of the ab plate and the wearer’s belly button.
A seam is necessary between the front neck and back neck, but steps should be taken to align the armor pieces so that the visibility of this seam is minimized.
The back plate should be smooth unless a jetpack is included in the costume, in which case attachment points may be visible on the back plate.
All armor should be sized appropriately to the wearer. None of the armor should appear to “float” on the wearer.
Either snaps or Velcro or a combination of the two can be used to attach armor pieces. Velcro is recommended over the shoulders to connect front and back neck pieces.
Designs should match the on-screen version. All designs include the black pinstriping. Weathering should be consistent with the on-screen version. Weathering of the neck front and breastplate should match the on-screen version as closely as possible.
Shoulders:
Shoulder plates should be sized appropriately. They should be attached to the shoulder points and free to move against the upper arm. Velcro is recommended. Magnets can be used as supplemental support but should not be the primary means of attachment.
Colors are light yellow with a dark yellow border. Weathering should be consistent with the on-screen version.
Gauntlets and Handguards
Gauntlets should be sized appropriately and should close with a hidden hinge and/or pin-and-lock mechanism. Two side seams are allowed but the fit should be such that the seams do not gape and are otherwise as minimally visible as possible.
The various gauntlet accessories as seen on screen are required. Care should be taken that the side mounted “rockets” are made out of a material that will not snap under use. Metal or wood are recommended rather than resin or plastic.
Gauntlets should be painted to match the on-screen version. Base colors are both the dark and the light grey. Highlights are in dark yellow. Weathering should be consistent with the on-screen version.
LED lights are not required for the “buttons” on the gauntlets, but are encouraged. Alternatively, the buttons can be painted the appropriate color.
Hand guards should be sized appropriately to the wearer and are attached to the gloves. Attachment method should not be visible. Velcro is recommended.
Hand guards and gauntlets should not touch.
Hand guards should be painted to match the on-screen version. Note that the pinstriping is on the outside of the light yellow stripe, rather than the inside as seen elsewhere.
Lower Body and Boots
Lower Body
Thigh armor should be sized appropriately to the wearer. There should be approximately 1 – 1 ½” of space between the top of the thigh armor and the bottom of the belt. Thigh armor should extend approximately halfway down the wearer’s thigh.
Thigh armor is in two or three pieces. The front piece can either be in two pieces or have a groove approximately 1/3 of the way down the front.
Thigh armor is light grey with minimal weathering.
Knee armor should be sized appropriately to the wearer. Knee armor is worn below the knee and the top edge should be slightly above the kneecap when the leg is bent.
Knee armor should be painted to match the on-screen version. Pinstriping is on the outside of the light yellow border, as seen on the hand guards. Weathering should match the on-screen version as closely as possible.
Knee armor and shin armor should not touch. There should be 3/8 – 1/2” of space between the knee armor and shin armor.
Shin armor should be sized appropriately to the wearer. Shin armor is flat in front and curved around the calf. There is a seam down the back calf. Front seams can either be on either side of the flat portion, or the flat portion can be a separate piece that hides a center front seam. Care should be taken with the fit to minimize the visibility of the seams.
Shin armor must have side “pouches” made out of the same material as the armor.
Shin armor should be painted according to the on-screen version. Shin armor is light grey with dark yellow highlights. Weathering should match the on-screen version as closely as possible.
No attachment methods should be visible. A combination of Velcro and snaps is recommended
Boots
Boots are a light grey leather or similar material.
An inside zip is permitted. Outside zips and laces are not permitted. A boot cover can be used to hide fasteners.
There is a yellow highlight at the crest of the boot just under the shin armor that should be painted to match the dark yellow of the armor.
Flight Suit
The flightsuit is tight fitting and should fit the wearer appropriately.
The flightsuit should be made out of a stable, heavy stretch fabric such as ponte knit, scuba knit, or stretch twill. Neoprene and jersey knit are both discouraged. The colors of the flightsuit are charcoal grey (not black) and a lighter grey. Heathering is preferred but not required. Fabric should not have a sheen, and is smooth rather than ribbed.
The flightsuit can be one piece (as a body suit) or two pieces. Two pieces are recommended for practicality. If two pieces, the dividing line between shirt and pants must be hidden by the belt.
Style lines of the flight suit should match the on-screen version.
There is an under collar of a black knit material that extends higher on the neck than the collar of the flight suit. This can be a separate undershirt, a dicky, or an undercollar attached to the flightsuit itself. It should fit tightly to the wearer and extend high enough that the neck is not visible when the helmet is on.
Tabards and Thigh Bands
Tabards
Tabards should come to approximately mid-thigh in both front and back, and end at the level of the thigh armor. The width of the tabards should be appropriate to the wearer and should cover approximately 2/3 of the abdomen/back.
Tabards are in three pieces. The side panels are a yellow fabric that matches the dark yellow of the armor as closely as possible. The center panel are a light grey fabric that is slightly darker than the light grey of the armor. There is flat piping along the edges of the center panels made out of a yellow fabric that matches the light yellow of the armor as closely as possible.
Fabric used should be a stable woven fabric. Fabric should either be of fairly heavy weight, or the tabards should be interfaced so that they are not floppy when moving.
The cloth belt is made out of the same yellow fabric as the side panels of the tabards. It should lie smoothly. The cloth belt should be sized appropriately to the wearer. A good starting point would be approximately 2 ½” wide.
Style lines of the tabards should match the on-screen version.
Tabards should have slight weathering
Thigh Bands
Thigh bands are made out of the same leather as the belt and holsters.
Thigh bands should be located just below the thigh armor.
Fasteners should not be visible, unless the greeble used is a functional fastener. If so, it must be smooth on the outside face to match the on-screen version.
It is recommended that Velcro is used to attach the thigh bands to the flight suit.
Gloves
Gloves should be made out of the same stretch fabrics as the flight suit.
Gloves should tuck into the gauntlets to make the appearance of being “one piece” with the flight suit.
Style lines of the gloves should match the on-screen version.
Belt and Holsters
Belt
Belt is made out of leather or leather-like material and is dyed a dark brown or a dark grey.
Belt should be sized appropriately to the wearer. A good starting point would be approximately 1 ¼” wide.
No fasteners should be visible. Fasteners can be hidden behind the buckle.
Accessories include a buckle that is painted light grey (or is metal) with dark yellow highlights, four pouches, and two “ammo” greebles. Pouches are made out of the same leather as the belt.
Holsters
Holsters should match the on-screen version.
Holsters are made out of the same leather as the belt.
Holsters are held onto the belt with clips matching the on-screen version, or they are sewn to the belt with the clips added as a non-functional part. Clips can be painted a light grey or can be bare metal.
Holsters should be sized to fit the Westar 35 blasters used.
Weapons
Two Westar 35s in the animated style should be used.
Blasters should be painted according to the on-screen version.
Jetpack
Jetpack is optional, but if used, should match the on-screen version as closely as possible.
Attachment to the back plate should be secure and should not pull the back plate away from the wearer. A harness to take the weight of the jetpack is encouraged. The harness should not be visible.
Hairstyle and Makeup
Hair should be a natural color, dark brown preferred. If a wig is used, it should look as natural as possible.
Hair should be arranged in a low bun to match the on-screen version.
Bangs are required. If clip-in bangs are used, they must look like they are a natural part of the hair.
A hair pin matching the on-screen version is required. Colors are light grey, light yellow, and dark yellow, with the light yellow line being very narrow to accommodate the size of the piece. No pinstriping on this piece.
Makeup is not required, but if it is used, it should match the on-screen version as much as possible.
Notes on Materials and Attachment Methods
Kits can be 3D printed, or can be made from Sintra (PVC board), PVC piping, Kydex, fiberglass, ABS, or various metals. Eva foam, Worbla and cardboard are not permitted for use as materials.
f kit parts are 3d printed, any and all print lines MUST BE SANDED AWAY OR OTHERWISE REMOVED. No print lines should be visible whatsoever. This includes in high-detailed areas. Printed parts will be heavily scrutinized for print lines.
· Overall quality of kit and neatness of wear will be judged separately from actual requirements. A kit may technically meet requirements for specific parts and still not be approved if it is not worn neatly or if the overall kit itself looks sloppy or messy.
· Snaps and Velcro are the recommended method of attachment for animated-style Mandolorians due to the tightness of the flightsuit. Magnets should not be used except as supplemental support.
· Glue or tape of any kind is not an appropriate method of attaching plates to soft parts and is not permitted.
· All attachment methods must be completely hidden.
“Ursa Wren” CRL v1.0 – 5/16/23 by Saena Raas
This CRL is a living document and can be updated or amended at any time.