Saturday, March 1st.

Up late. Wrote for a mail to leave by S.S. Calcutta for England. Faced Colonel St. Clair and, with him, drove to 17th Mess. Walked back with Stuart, made some calls and dined with Colonel Westmacott. Met Col. Dunlop and Major Field, R.A., Dixon(?) R.E. Pleasant enough; afterwards home in the snow, etc., and to bed, feeling stupid.

Sunday, 2nd.

To church a.m. with Stokes. Afterwards wrote letters, etc., until nearly 4 when took a stiff walk along the harbour, and returned, dressed and ploughed my way through slush to dine with T. Kenny. Met his wife, Major Coulthurst and a Captain Creagh 17th, also Mr. Henry, one of the legislative assembly. Home latish and nearly went to sleep over the “equipment of troops”.

Monday, 3rd.

A.M. remained at home, doing nothing or almost worse than nothing, thinking and making an ass of myself touching on forbidden subjects; vowed I would settle to work, but failed most signally. At last started for a walk; left cards and civilities on Mrs. Hugent, Mrs. Clerke, and looked in at Colonel Ansell’s. Saw Miss A. and told her of her mother. Returned to dress in time to cross to Dartmouth by or soon after six to dine with “our Adjutant General”. No one there but Moor, 17th, and all the family Dewson, the English beauty as they call the elder. She is good looking by comparison with most of the colonials, but would be nothing on our side of the Duckpond. Worried an American (new) beauty out of all temper, unintentional on my part but rather silly on hers. Transacted very little of my business with the A.G. who is not a bad fellow, but naturally holds on tight to his position which he half fears we may cast him from. Made my one or two suggestions to him which were received fairly enough. Invited to become an honorary member of the 16th and 17th Messes which I gladly accepted although I know few or none of the former.

Tuesday, 4th.

Succeeded in doing a little Euclid early this morning. Broached my ideas again to the A.G.M. who seems to approve. Looked up Captain Cheamley and took his advice on horses, etc. Home and wrote to Halen, T. West Willie Lloyd. Found a long letter from home from my Mother and Father, and a brief one from T. West (Mauritius); a shorter note from Helen. To bed about 12½.

Wednesday, 5th.

Ash Wednesday. Writing letters and Euclid a.m.; mail came in and created a small excitement. A quicker passage than cure. Read some papers p.m. and, dining early, went to a Volunteer lecture. Walker not so bad for a colony. Brought home Eust. Tobin, whoever he may be, and gave him some whisky. To bed tired; one letter from my Mother, all as usual.

Thursday, 6th.

Tried to inaugurate a new era by doing some work before breakfast, and broke the ice but did not do much more. Writing up for the mail, wrote also asking for detention allowance. Dined quietly with Stokes, and out for an airing before turning in.

Friday, 7th.

Up early and tried to catch the Niagara, but she went out early. Sorry to miss Muir, the Captain. Looked up some lodgings and called on Captain Kenny and on Mrs. Sawyer. Walked to the point with Stokes and afterwards dined with the 16th Regiment, meeting some old friends of Jock Constable’s who enquired affectionately after him. Home rather late with a most splitting head ache; roused up and went out to get rid of it, but could not.

Saturday, 8th.

Head ache very violent and suffering greatly; at home perfectly helpless all the morning. Dined early after a stiffish walk, and went as a refresher to Mrs. Westmacott’s where a number of the beauty and fashion of Halifax congregated. Introduced to a Miss Twinning(?), who I got on pretty well with, altho’ I cannot agree with those who think her a beauty.

Sunday, 9th.

To church a.m. at Saint Paul’s; walked home with Capt. And Mrs. Lyttleton and afterwards walked round the point with Stokes. Dined with Mr. and Mrs. Sawyer and a number of olive branches, the young ladies of ages from 21 to 15, the youngest rather pretty, which is more than I can say for the others. Home about 11.

Tuesday, 11th.

Rapidly thawing. Walked up to the 17th Mess and lunched with Stuart. Afterwards met Colonel and Mrs. Taylor and had a long chat with them; then home to lie down, having a violent attack of lumbago. Dined with J.B. Duffus, Mrs. Duffus the image of Miss Maitland. Met the Miss Priors, the elder politely presented me with a flower; I would not ask for it, so the gift being unsolicited was, I suppose, the more to be esteemed. Getting home, I found a small parcel directed to me in a lady’s handwriting, and it turned out to be “Digby Grand” with the initials L.H.T. inside. I certainly had told Miss Twinning from whom I suppose this came, that I was wishing to read it, and yet I am rather astonished at her sending me the book unsolicited This will, I suppose, entail a call and thanks.

Digby Grand – ‘Digby Grand – An Autobiography’ by George John Whyte-Melville, a Scottish novelist, first published 1854

Wednesday, 12th.

Reading Digby Grand as bound in honour to do after a young lady has sent it to me; called on Mrs. Westmacott p.m. and Mrs. Duffus. Mr. Tobin dined with the Artillery and Engineers; sat next to Majors Child and Field. Whist, grilled bones and home.

Thursday, 13th.

Picked up with my old acquaintances, Fitzroy 63rd as good looking as ever, putting him on the scent for Sandhurst. Snow still in a melting mood but freezes hard at night, and then very slippery; got a fall on my right side which strained my left. Rather odd that, but things are different in this country from on the other side of the herring pond. Got a walk late, called on Mrs. Sawyer; the Arch Bishop (R.C.), Mrs. Duffus, Mess 16th and dined with the Mayor, met the General etc., walked home afterwards with Capt. Hamilton of the Hydra.

Captain Hamilton of the Hydra – Admiral Sir Richard Vesey Hamilton, GCB (1829-1912). At this time he was Captain of HMS Hydra, a wooden steam paddle sloop launched in 1838 and used as a survey vessel until paid off in 1868. Hamilton went on to have a distinguished naval career

Friday, 14th.

No “Adelaide” yet where can she be? Still a hard frost on the ground and very slippery altho’ the snow is mostly gone. Too deeply interested in Digby Grand to do much work this morning, but must make up for this somehow. Inspected the Volunteer Battalion on the Dalhousie Parade Ground, the turn out not large, the appointments scarcely equal to those of most English Battalions and the size and stamina certainly not superior than those of most town battalions, scarcely equal to the average of our county regiments. One company, Capt. Cheamley’s the “Chebucto Greys” appear well turned out etc. good in size etc. Addressed a few words in praise etc. Dined afterwards with Albert Neame at the 16th Mess. Played whist afterwards and home about 12. A short read and to bed.

Saturday, 15th.

Still freezing at night, thawing by day with occasional falls of snow which, however, has become continuous this afternoon. Waited on Lord Mulgrave but could arrange nothing definite with him. I professed my willingness to stay and he his to keep me, but he is rather shy of Taylor. Told my story afterwards to the General but can get no decided answer. Walked with Nugent round “the point”, discussing the service and its chances. Dining early, went to the Virgin Lodge and saw Gordon, R.A., initiated. Spoke a little to them, had a glass of whisky and water with Mr. Keith the P.G.M. and home to bed, feeling altogether unsettled thanks to the uncertainty I am at present in as to staying or returning home.

RA – Royal Artillery

PGM – Provincial Grand Master

Sunday, 16th.

Blowing a hard gale, and snowing all night so that the snow is in drifts three feet deep in some places. The getting to church was a matter of difficulty and when there we had it almost to ourselves. The fire bell commencing to ring in the middle of church, produced a scurry; all the officials etc. making a rush to see whether their premises were endangered and finding them safe, returned. The snow, sleet or rain, whatever it was, stung our faces most cruelly. A wretched day. I can scarcely read or otherwise keep myself alive with the prospect of the next seven hours to myself for I am now writing in the afternoon. After all, dined with Innes and chatted until all hours of the night. Better than I expected, he is a shrewd clear-headed Scotchman and will do if not spoilt.

Monday, 17th.

An interview with the Lt. Governor who has written home, asking for me, complimentary and gratifying, even if it should not be successful. So I am now preparing to be off to the States for a month, and see McClellan and the great cities. Called on Mrs. Thomson and introduced myself. Snow getting very deep and still falling, nearly two feet deep even out of the drifts; inclining to thaw.

Tuesday, 18th.

Packing up ready for my start to the States. Afterwards getting my passport etc. filled up the afternoon. Called on Mr. Pringle. Afterwards dined with Lord Mulgrave, a large party – legislators, etc. – home about 10½ to get my letters written, ready for the mail. Wrote to Robert, my Mother. Met a Mr. Robertson at Government House: comes from the south part and very hot about the Militia, probably a good man to know.

Wednesday, 19th.

Preparing for my start and wrote to Julius and Carroan. H.M.S. Greyhound came in and a false alarm spread that it was the mail. Captain Hamilton of the Hydra came in to Mrs. Hills when I was there and blurted it out, so I had to bolt and make preparations which after all went for nothing. Dined with Mr. Cunard, Mrs. C., a very handsome person; daughter of Judge Haliburton “Sam Slick”. Fears about the ‘Adelaide’ relieved as she has arrived at Bermuda after a long passage of 37 days, short of coals and water, shameful. Victoria had not turned up. To bed in expectation of being dug out at any time on the arrival of the mail. Snow still lying deep, a slight thaw in the sun made the streets very slippery, sleighs all out again.

Thursday, 20th.

No mail yet, strongish N. wind. Wrote up my letters, also one to Editor A. & N. Gazette, another to Arthur reasoning with, and pointing out to him that he has a position to fill and must not consider himself a child any longer. It is one thing however to know this, and another to act up to it as I unfortunately find myself. I fear we want decision, all of us; good enough heads and hearts but a lack of decision and point. Can it be obtained or is it only a natural gift not to be acquired artificially. Habit is second nature and it is possible that we may become accustomed to judge rapidly and accurately. Practice and courage. Walked with and said goodbye to Stapleton, G.C., who I am sorry to lose. After dinner went to see Chearnaley’s men at work. They drill fairly and under him do well. A sergeant of the 60th at work who I fear is somewhat rusty but will probably improve seems willing, so I must not expect too much at first. Afterwards had a long chat with the piper of the Scottish company, an enthusiastic volunteer and hopes that I am not going home. I begin to think I shouldn’t mind staying if it were made worth my while.

Friday 21st. No mail yet. Met Colonel Taylor and had to face him so as to remove any ill feeling he might have about his going and my being kept. Walked with him and advised him to go into the Staff College. Dined early and went late to the Storekeeper’s, Mr. Pringle’s, to a small evening – a very small evening it was – and tired enough and glad enough I was to get away about twelve. Chaffed Fitzroy and to bed, but soon roused.

Saturday, 22nd. Roused up at 2 a.m. with the mail’s arrival. Packed up, paid my bill, and started but came back to bed after taking my passage when I found that the boat would not start until after breakfast. Called for my letters at the P.O. but there were none, a great disappointment as I shall get none now for six weeks, and I am too anxious to hear about my Father’s state of health etc. Breakfasted on board and struggled ashore in waterproofs in the most pelting rain, a perfect downpour. Backwards and forwards until 2 a.m. when the “America” started. Major Evans 10th sent back to his appointment here which looks as if the authorities would keep me too. Shall be glad when the answer comes, and meanwhile, must hope that all is right at home. A heavy sea running at starting, so that I was glad to get away from dinner and run afterwards, when provoked by a pan full of lukewarm roast and boiled, to the ship’s side to discharge cargo. Better by tea time and to bed early.

Sunday, 23rd.

A very calm night and good passage made 9½ knots all night. Divine service, the chants and psalms sung, a novelty on board. At 12 we were in Lat. 42.46, Long. 67.9, having run 213 miles in the 22 hours; 178 miles still to Boston.

Monday, 24th.

A lovely passage after all, quite smooth water all last evening and a very quiet night, but alas, too soon disturbed to disembark about 7 a.m. Crossed the steam ferry from depot to Rivers House in a sort of leathern conveyance denominated a stage, holding nine inside on three transverse seats, the baggage strapped behind. Walked about, breakfasted and dined, table fair and not very different from Halifax.

Went up the pilgrims’ 300 steps to the top of the Bunker’s Hill monument. A most irregularly built affair is Boston city looked down upon from such a height, but pretty withal. A curious place to walk about in; there appear to be three or four women for every man one meets and this cannot be due to the war, as the soldiers from the country round are brought in to be drilled and form, in their French grey great coat, a marked feature in the scene. The women remind me much of Germans, in French dresses, the faces very Teutonic, the fashions Parisian; not many pretty faces.; the men heavy and business like with long straight hair and the usual American type, shaved upper lip and clipped beard, as reasonable as our fashion and proclaiming unmistakably the country.

Hotel good and waiting and supplies pretty fair – prices long – everything in the United States appears dear except india rubber. That is cheap enough. Streets are pretty fair, paved with blocks of stone, rather in the German fashion, and the footpath of bricks. The houses in the more suburban part towards Bunker’s Hill remind me a good deal of the Houses about Southsea, near Portsmouth. The docks are not bad but peculiar parallel piers running out into the stream or bay. Faneuil Hall, an old building they boast of, is a tumbledown looking structure. The buildings generally look solid and substantial, a great deal of stone, but brick is the principal material. Left Boston at 5 by Vermont Central Railway, passing Concord about 8. Took a sleeping car, a great institution. Fitzroy and I each paid our 3/- and we had a compartment to ourselves; a sort of shelf made up along the side, which we had some trouble in preventing an American from doing us out of. I really slept very comfortably.

Faneuil Hall - Built in 1742 at the site of the old town dock, Faneuil Hall was the location of town meetings in colonial Boston. It is often referred to as “the Cradle of Liberty” because it was here that Samuel Adams, James Otis and other leaders in the American Revolution made speeches against British oppression

Tuesday, 25th.

Breakfasted at St. Albans on some green tea and eggs. Got to Rouses Point about 8, changed carriages for Montreal on the Montreal and Lake Champlain railway. Again changed on to the Grand Trunk Line to cross the bridge as the ice is not safe across the St. Laurence which I am unfortunate enough only to see in its frozen state. Got to our new station about 11½ and, after some slight trouble about my two portmanteaus, for in this great country every man is his own porter. I got into a stage sleigh and found my way to the Donegana Hotel, supposed to be the best in Montreal but rather out of town. Found the 16th Regiment staying and messing here. Dressed, washed, and left my letters from Treatorer on Messrs. Kay and McKenzie, also on colonels Conolly and Wetherall. General Sir W.F. Williams away, but returns from Quebec tonight. Looked up Blomfield 47th, where I quite miss my old friend Croker’s face.

Montreal is a fine city with an aspect of life and business about it that we look for in vain at Halifax. It seems rather odd in the midst of a population speaking English and that only, to find the French Canadian retaining his own language, the very vilest kind of French. In point of physique they differ but little from the other inhabitants but are perhaps somewhat smaller. The streets are very much filled with snow which is four and five feet thick in some streets, shops good. Walked about; afterwards looked up Daniell who has gone to New York. Had a long chat with Colonel Hamilton about all their doings on board the Niagara after I left. Streets in Montreal in the chronic state of freeze and thaw which was so disagreeable at Halifax, and dangerous as making the roads so slippery. Pavement and buildings generally on a rather nice scale: the view of Montreal from the St. Laurence decidedly pretty even in winter. Met my old friend O’Callaghan, 16th, with whom conversed until late as I was not a believer he would. Then to bed in a cold room.

Rouses Point – A town on Lake Champlain, about a mile south of the US/Canadian border

General Sir W.F. Williams – Earned distinction in command of Turkish forces which successfully resisted the Russian siege of Kars in the Crimean War

Wednesday, 26th.

Looked up Williams of the Military Train who walked me about and showed me the lions, such as the Skating Rink and riding school where we saw a Frenchman deliberately tumble off. Afterwards met Volunteer Troop of cavalry, really not bad, dined with Williams at the Ottawa Hotel, met Buller and Johns. N.T. pleasant men. Went to Tulforde, whose volunteers we saw parading the streets, and sloped home after a little gin and water.

Thursday, 27th.

Still walking about and looking at the people, to my mind far the most agreeable study, far more interesting than the new bricks and mortar they put up. Again walked and drove with Williams; afterwards dined with Sir. W.F. Williams, with his namesake of the R.B(B), my old friend. Sir. W.W. very pleasant and chatty about Sandwich and former times. Got away and after a yarn with (Lally) Williams to our hotel where a dance was going on, in which I bore a small part. Then to bed. Partners not very interesting and one lady guessing my age as 35 or 36.

Friday, 28th.

Packing up and preparing for flitting. Much bothered as to the disposal of some Indian work which I felt bound to purchase as part of the wonders of the country and having purchased have to carry. Went off to the Victoria Bridge, but probably on account of my resemblance to Yankees generally was not allowed to visit more than the abutment. Had, however, a peep in as far as the second tube, and was able to see the arrangement for allowing the expansion or contraction of the metal. Got up to the top, the view from which in summer must be very pretty and the appearance of the top very queer. Back in time to lunch with Mr. Kay of the firm of Lewis and Kay (who hoped I will visit them if I pass through again) at the Montreal Club, a comfortable house. Then goodbye to Hamilton and Higginson and a race to the train, where I arrived half an hour early after all. Moncrieff and Anstruther of the S.F.C. and G.C. in the train also Colonel Ross P.S. and old Fitzroy 63rd, so we had a pleasant enough time. We brought some Hon. Ms. just joined the Government down to their constituents to be re-elected, and they kept us waiting nearly an hour at the junction and then ran off the line after all which delayed us another hour, so that we got in about 1½ instead of 10½. This is considered good for the Grand Trunk, still with the help of sleeping cars even this can be endured.

Victoria Bridge – the 3km long bridge over the St Lawrence River of steel tube construction, completed in 1860. In 1897 the tubes were replaced with steel trusses and the bridge is still in use

Grand Trunk – The Grand Trunk Railway Company of Canada was formed in 1852 to build a line from Montreal to Toronto. The network was much extended in the 1850s (including the first successful bridging of the St Lawrence River by the Victoria Bridge) but by 1860 the company was on the verge of bankruptcy. However the economic benefits to that region following the end of the Civil War resulted in resurgence and in 1867 it had become the largest railway system in the world, with over 2,000km of track

Saturday, 29th.

Put up at the Rossin House, a large establishment (since burnt down) 1863. Left Gratorex’s letter on Mr Bowes, who returned my call this evening and hoped I would revisit Toronto. Called also on Massey 30th. Toronto appears a very rising town, the streets are well laid out, broad and open, in some parts the houses are fine, but in others the old shabby wooden huts still exist, which will however rapidly give place to newer and better. The Law Courts form a very splendid building with a handsome vestibule, really pretty and in good taste, a very find library also. A wonderful country, this Canada, very highly cultivated and not more sparsely peopled than most agricultural parts of the old country though perhaps the villages are not so thick. Were I not drawn to England, I would settle here and take to my old fancy of farming. After dinner and writing, very tired, to bed.

(since burnt down) – It is not clear who wrote these words. If John, then he was writing his diary (or perhaps adding to it) long after his visit. Alternatively the note might have been inserted by Elizabeth Horlock when transcribing the diary about 1970

Sunday, 30th.

Up and after a most refreshing bath, breakfast and to church at the Cathedral. Everything quite according to rule, even to a droning person and most uninteresting sermon. Major Dillon, 30th, put me down as a visitor of the Toronto Club and as it rained more or less all the afternoon I was very glad of the opportunity to write a letter to my Mother, just sketching what I had seen and where I had been, and reading the papers so as not to be quite in the dark as to what is going on. Massey looked me up and made me lunch and dine with him. Had a chat with Colonel Mauleveren and home, tired, to bed.

Monday, 31st.

Up very early, ½ to 6 a.m. to pack up for my expedition to Lake Simcoe to find out my cousin Alexander L. Altho’ positively assured by the member for Barrie that he did not live anywhere about, I remembered well enough the address, or near Barrie, and events have proved that I was not wrong in trusting to my memory. Coming to Barrie by the Northern Railway, which altho’ slow is a very comfortable and correct running line, and after a sleighing rush across the end of the lake, put up at Tanager Hotel. Here after due enquiry a Laurie was known and in a cutter, I visited his habitation., a log shanty in the backwoods, rather Crimean in appearance but no doubt air tight and comfortable. The two yoke of oxen were in their stable, but the hut door locked, so after a due search, I discovered from the next door neighbour that he was gone into town, so my trip was vain except as regarded in the light of instruction and a visit to an outlying clearing. Getting back to Barrie in a heavy snowstorm, I at last found the object of my search, looking well and jolly – farming is his like – some difference too between himself and his sister M., all hinging on who shall write next. I must try and persuade him to hold out his hand once more, surely she who professed such an interest in him, will not now remain cold to his advances. There is no telling.

Looked at the Barrie volunteers at drill this evening, about twenty on parade and looking earnest and like business. In point of physique, I see no difference between them and the men of the old country; much lauded as these here are for their superior size and weight. Poor A. much struck with his sister’s photograph, she looks so much older and worn, he thinks.

Alexander Laurie – the elder brother, then aged 30 years, of Margaret (who had been informally adopted by Sir Peter). He died in Toronto in 1898