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9 Apr 60 Julius Fyzabad Mother ______________________________________________________________________________________________

Fyzabad –

9 April 60 –

My dear Mother

Your letter of the 22^nd Feb^ry arrived a few days ago. I generally write you short, uninteresting letters, having really nothing to say, or being too much employed to say it. I am going to try & make this an exception to the general rule, at any rate, as to length.

I only returned from Lucknow at the end of last month. I went there with Boyce, one of our Captains, for a little change before the hot weather really set in. We were away altogether nine days. The ostensible reason of the trip was to attend at a Grand Ball given by the officers of the Queen’s Bays. I had better begin at the beginning.

The distance is about 84 miles, so we determined to dawk the first 40 & ride the last 44, to which end, each sent on three horses or poneys some days before, and had them posted along the road at intervals, so as to divide the journey into pretty equal stages.

We started from this at 5 in the morning, in Palkies carried by Bearers (a dawk is laid some days previously at the Post Office where the relief of the men at certain distances is arranged) who go along at a sort of jog trot. You have your traps in baskets. One man carries two good sized ones at the ends of a bamboo, the centre of which is resting on his shoulders. If travelling at night, you must have your torch bearers. All these extras are supposed to keep up with you & form a procession (if such a thing was ever known to move at a jog trot?)

We went along as pleasantly as a dawk journey will ever permit you to go. About every two hours you are awoke be the Palky being gently deposited on the ground. There then is a great jabber for some minutes. The old bearers & the fresh ones are comparing notes; one party explaining what a great weight the Sahib is, the other enquiring if he is supposed to give much backshish etc. etc.

Before you get under weigh again, the torch is pushed nearly into your face to ensure your being perfectly awake & then you are besieged for backshish by the old lot of men. (A comprehensive word is ‘backshish’, implying a present or reward) as the new set are about to carry you off.

We reached ‘Derriabad’ * the half way Station (a place supposed to be celebrated for the greatest scoundrels & the prettiest women in Oude – extraordinary how often they are to be found together) about an hour before day break. Here, as at many places along the principal roads, is a Dawk Bungalow, a Government Establishment for the accommodation of travellers at an entrance fee of Rs 1.

One of the greatest institutions of the country, at which we got a wash & a very rough sort of breakfast and at day light, off we started on horseback. I correct myself: I was on a poney, a good old beast I bought one evening in the dark on the march from Lucknow with Lugard. An animal which, as I found out the morning after I had paid for him, had but one eye. This beast, not having been exercised much lately, got so very much done after the first 10 miles, I thought I should never have got him to the end of his 15. After a deal of spur, I did, but it was nearly as bad as walking. Afterwards we got on at a great pace & reached Lucknow about 8.30 A.M.

We went through some of the places rendered remarkable by the fights which took place during Sir Colin’s advance to the Relief of The Residency, and then to ‘Benson’s Hotel’. I believe all Indian Hotels are much alike. I hope not. If they are, I shall pray that I may never be obliged to enter another. The Hotel in question is an old Native House where some Commander-in-Chief of the King of Oude used to live. In the centre, one immense room, now turned into a Coffee Room. Small rooms all round, now used as bed rooms, all opening into the Coffee Room. We were duly installed in one (the proprietor expecting more visitors, he said, than he could accommodate with separate bed rooms) then got some very bad breakfast & went out to make some calls: first at the Bay’s Mess, where we were asked to come & stay in their lines in a house belonging to a Captain Jenkin, a great Sporting man.

Cantonments are about two miles from the City, extending over the ground we skirmished through under Sir Colin, when he seized the Dilkoosha * and over where the Camp of the Army was when we were taking Lucknow.

We returned to dine & sleep at the Hotel & next morning were to remove to the Bays. They gave us a very bad dinner so, thinking to make up for it by getting a good sleep, we went to bed early.

Unfortunately, our going to bed awoke all the Mosquitoes, mice, rats, fleas and other abominations which shall be nameless. I do not think I mentioned our room opened into a poultry yard, the smell of which, in a hot climate is, to say the least, unpleasant. Besides it being a rendezvous for other animals in addition to those for which it was intended. It was so hot that, to avoid being stifled, one of us in a weak moment undid the door which communicated with the chickens.

From that moment, our chance of sleep got small indeed, but when at 10 o’clock a supper party took place in the Coffee Room, it vanished altogether. The party broke up about 4½ o’clock & at daylight the flies began. So we arose, more tired than ever, mounted our Horses & went to look over the Residency and other places well known to us two years ago. But Lucknow is indeed altered.

There you certainly see signs of what Englishmen can do. It is getting to be a perfect model of an Anglo-Indian City. The Residency is left as I knew it before, a heap of Ruins. It seems as if it was intended as a monument to remind the Natives of what the English did. A Fort to surround it is slowly in course of erection. It is a splendid position, the houses etc. being now cleared away for some hundreds of yards all round it.

During the day we went up to Cantonments & were put up in an immense room in a new Bungalow. The Bays got a man, a Native, to build houses for them to rent. They are very large. £15 a month was paid for the one we were in. I think I did better in building my own, after all, do not you?

There were three days races while we were at Lucknow. The Bays are very fond of it. Their Colonel has a large line of stables full of Racers (which, in this country, consist of different breeds, Arabs, English, Cape, Australian & Country Horses). The man we were staying with had another long row. I suspect the latter knows most about it. He & another Captain of the same Regt. are confederates & the latter Captain rides all the horses from their stables. It was beautiful to see him riding past the Native jockeys who were put up by others. A nasty accident occurred in a Hurdle Race. One of the Horses struck a hurdle & came over heavily on his side. His rider, a man who had been discharged from 23^rd only the day before, was so good that he never moved in his saddle (an indifferent horseman would have been shot right away) & he came to the ground sideways, his head striking a stake, which rendered him insensible. The poor fellow died the same evening. On the whole I think the Races were indifferent, Jenkins’ stable carrying everything before it.

But now to the Ball. Unfortunately we were dining with the 23^rd and to the Ball we went, but very late. The consequence of course, was that the ladies were engaged for the whole evening. The thing was very nice, as a change. I believe there were an unusual quantity of ladies for an Indian Ball. I suppose the numbers were about 40 to 120 gentlemen, whereas the average generally is about in the ratio of 20 to 150. The consequence is ladies are all spoilt in this country. A common place girl who w^d be sitting two thirds of the evening in England has half the room fighting for the pleasure of a vacant dance with her. Very few are proof against it.

The first Ball produced a second a few days after, at which we were more fortunate. Being out of practice, I found waltzing horrid hard work. The ladies must feel it next day. They are never allowed to sit down a moment. Here, by the way, I met Williamson of the 23^rd. He looked very well, seemed to be thinking of something else during our chat; could not keep his eyes off a certain lady & at length darted away. On enquiring the cause from a brother officer of his, he was pronounced ‘spooner’. We used to turn the mornings to account by going over the old ground & looking up all the old spots. Most of them are quite transformed. One day we began at the ‘Dilkoosha House’. This, you may remember was the first position the Regt. took up at Lucknow, behind which we used to get when the Enemy opened fire. It is now the residence of the General. From the house down to the Goomtee * ran a trench in which some of us were nearly always posted. It runs in front of the Martinière. Part is still in existence.

We went on to the Martinière, which has been entirely renovated, noting, as we passed every mound, behind which the Rebels used to skirmish up & fire away. All the spots where the dead Sepoys used to lie; the positions of the guns in rear the villages, houses etc. which we witnessed being taken by storm by the Highlanders & Sikhs. From there we went to Bankes’ Bungalow * where, after it was taken, we were quartered so long. Further still, we visited the Kaiser bagh (their Emperor’s garden) in which we were posted for some days. The latter enclosure is a splendid Relic. When we first went there it was full of marble statues, fountains & Summer Houses, also of Marble. In the centre once the King used to hold his ‘Nautches’ (dancing exhibitions). The whole was most beautiful, reminding one of Arabian Nights. Now it presents rather a ruined appearance. No attempts seem to have been made to repair it again.

Of an evening, the correct thing in Lucknow is to go on the Mall, which is a very pretty road, extending some two Miles along the River Goomtee (the name signifies ‘winding’ or ‘curving’). It makes a beautiful ride or drive. Of an afternoon the whole place is watered by men carrying Skins of water from the River, so there is no dust – which is one of the many disagreeables of India, being so fine that it penetrates everything. On the Mall, you see every one; the Ladies, Civilians & Military, Natives of high & low degree. Everybody appears for an hour or so, commencing about 5.30 P.M. when the sun is going down, dressed up to the enth power. All officers in Lucknow have to appear in uniform, which objectionable practice, as yet, we do not carry on in these out stations. One morning we rode to the Alum-Bagh * which Gen^l Outram held so long after the Relief until Sir Colin came to take Lucknow. There we saw Havelock’s grave. It is enclosed, but as yet, no monument or inscription marks the spot where he lies. Poor fellow. It was a great pity he could not live to return to England after all his success. He deserved to be made much of.

In Lucknow, amongst other old friends, we met our old Commissariat Officer who was with us in the Nepaul Campaign. His wife has since joined him. They were very civil indeed.

After spending eight very pleasant days, we set out on our return, starting at day break, previously having arranged where our horses would be waiting for us. The first stage we got over well enough and having mounted our second horses, had been going along gaily some hour & a half, when I began to think the road seemed new. I mentioned my fears to Boyce who would not have it at all, until we came to a big Bridge which both felt certain had not been in our way when we came. So, on enquiry, it proved. We had missed the right road & had been coming on one heading towards Byram Ghat, which is 30 or 40 miles higher up the Gogra than this. Having enlisted an intelligent villager in our cause, we turned our horses’ heads across country, to the Fyzabad road. We had ridden the same horses 30 miles when my companion observed a loose shoe on his horse. We pulled up at the next village to get it off. I jumped off, giving my horse to an inhabitant to hold, went to assist in the operation.

I had hardly gone five paces when I heard, almost at the same moment, a yell from my Horse & a shriek from the man who was supposed to be holding him. Now the tables were turned, for the Horse was holding on to the man by the arm. I seized the bridle & was mounted in a moment. By a sharp wrench with the curb, I forced his mouth open & released the man’s arm. After the manner of Natives, the villager thought he was altogether done for, throwing himself down immediately commenced a dismal groan. I inspected the wound which was a bad pinch, but nothing broken, not even the skin. I saw it well bathed in cold water then bound with a wet cloth, & giving the poor fellow some backshish, proceeded again on our journey. We reached Deeriabad about 11½ o’clock, having come on the same horses about forty miles. The other Horse was a little done up. My little yellow man-eater was as fresh as ever. Amongst the country horses, very many are vicious. My horse, like many others, dislikes being mounted & sometimes strikes out at you as you come up, rising on his hind legs. When once up, he is a very good beast, as this ride testifies. I was much surprised at his treatment of the villager after carrying my weight 30 miles.

We found our dawk was all right and starting after a grand dinner, reached Fyzabad (home (?) I was going to say) about 4 A.M. having accomplished all we went for, passed a very pleasant time & made a break in the Routine of Station life, just at the commencement of the hot weather. I, for one, have returned intending to try to be contented with the quiet of Fyzabad, having seen the other side of the picture in Lucknow. The weighty part of my Annual Musketry work is over, finished before I went away. The Colonel gives me charge of a Company, although a Rifle Instructor, so I shall try to see the hot season through in the plains. I believe I might get some months leave to the hills which I shall try to do without, as long as I keep well.

Since my return, I have taken up the duties of another important situation viz: the care & hunting of the hounds, the old Master having exchanged for China. It will give me a great deal of hard work during the hot months. Still, it will be something to do, taking one out of the house & giving you exercise. I have hunted them now twice & on Saturday was lucky enough to have ‘the Run of the Season’, lasting from 5.30 A.M. until 6.45 A.M. Exclusive of checks, 65 minutes hard running, which would be really good, even in England.

Our women & children arrived during my absence. They unfortunately got the cholera among them, coming up the River, which carried off several. For the last three days the same dread disease has been raging here. Already it has carried off fourteen belonging to the Regt. We attended the funeral last night of a poor girl – a very sad case indeed. She was the sister-in-law of our Paymaster & only came out to the country two or three months ago with his wife. Three days ago (this is the 10^th), she was a rosy cheeked English girl, looking as strong & healthy as possible. She lived with her sister in the next house to mine in the Lines.

Col^nl Kelly has heard from the Duke of Cambridge that he has been granted a good service pension of £100 a year & is to get the KCB for the Nepaul Campaign. Lucky man. There are several people who ought to divide the rewards with him. If he had not had first rate Commanders with the Sikh Rgts. at Bootwal * he & his whole force might have been eaten.

Ruttledge, one of our Lieuts. is very bad with Cholera, poor fellow. I hope he will get over it. Our Doctors are knocked up with hard work. I have not heard of any more Cholera in Hospital this morning so hope it may be blowing over.

I have never drawn that money yet, but am going to on first opportunity. Please tell my Father, & now I think I have told you all my news, so hoping you are all well.

With best love to Helen & all others,

From yr affect Son

JDLaurie

* Derriabad – now Dariyabad

* the Dilkoosha – Dilkoosha Palace, built by Nawab Saadat Ali Khan in the early 1800s as a hunting lodge. During the Uprising of 1857 Indian sepoys sieged the Residency complex at Lucknow where 3000 British residents and loyal Indians were trapped for five months before the arrival of troops. Diluksha, was used by Sir Colin Campbell, the British Commander-in-Chief, as a headquarters when relieving the Residency, the siege was finally ended by his troops on 17 November 1857. Sir Colin Campbell used the Diluksha again in March 1858 when making the final assault upon Lucknow. Lucknow architecture of the late 18th and 19th century was notably influenced by European architecture; this building was based on the English classical baroque style

* Goomtee – now Gomti River, a tributary of the Ganges

* Bootwal – now Butwal, Nepal