Saturday, 1st February.

Dined with R.P.L., went to drill. Marched from Hd.Qrs. to Horton to 4th and 6th Tower Hamlet drill hall. Sherry and sandwiches. Richards made a poor exhibition. Money thought he made a grand one. Money lost ground in my opinion. Marched home very late. Oysters at Prospers.

Sunday, 2nd.

Walked with Robert and J. Weatherby and Tatham. R. And W.F(?). dined with us and Willie.

Monday, 3rd.

Went to Chatham and dined with Boyce Sheppard and the old lot. G. Highly amusing. Yarned until 1 a.m., then to bed in my old room, now owned by Boyce.

Tuesday, 4th.

Up to town latish. Called on Vallences, a pleasant chat; then on with R.P.L. to the Aitchesons, but could see nothing, too dark. Called at Mary’s and back to dinner with the old Lauries at home.

Wednesday, 5th.

To the City a.m. Saw Mr. Anderton and daughter. Capt. Lambert and Major Trevor lunched with us. Afterwards drove with my Mother. Got out in the Park to walk with Miss Mavse, and walked and chatted with her. Dined with the Coles.

Thursday, 6th.

To the City and took my passage. Then, after saying goodbye to some friends, home. Picked up Boyce, Sheppard and Bolton, and with two latter called on Mrs. Hancock who was very cordial, champagne, etc. Mr. H. also friendly. Walked with Bolton, a nice fellow. Then dined with Mary to say goodbye.

Friday, 7th.

Packed up early, then to finish various small matters and lastly early dinner. Mary came in to say goodbye; brought a present for Helen’s birthday. My Mother did not feel the parting as before, seemed to think I was not going after all. I wish I were not. Came by 8 p.m. train to Liverpool. P. and M. came with me to the station and we again said goodbye, so often repeated, this time I think in earnest. Arrived here 11 p.m. – now to bed, 1 a.m.

Saturday, 8th.

Up early to find my luggage at the Park Lane or Wapping Stations. Arranged for its being put on board; then called and saw Mr. L., Mrs. Gill and Fanny. Isabel of course not up. Breakfasted and went back for a chat. Then on board at 12, per tug up the river to steamer Niagara. The mails were put on board about two and then the tug cast off and we parted from old England; this time I think in earnest, and who knows when to return, perhaps soon, perhaps not for years. I hope against hope that it may be soon, and yet I would willingly stay out, if by doing so, I can get promotion, and shall I say, distinction – it might be. I have chances. I trust I may so use them as never to regret opportunities thrown away.

Let me be practical; a comfortable ship, a state room to myself, good food, and today calm water; enough for the day is the evil – let us make the most of the good whilst it lasts. Major Daniell my old companion, and Cols. Higginson and Hamilton of the Grenadiers. The other passengers scarcely even curious and not worthy of notice; some of the wives of officer going to join their husbands; foreigners, French, Belgians, etc. forming the usual Babel to be met with on our principal mail steamers; surely they ought to be neutral even were England at war; quiet to bed, warm.

enough for the day is the evil – an aphorism taken from Matthew 6:34 - 'sufficient unto the day is the evil thereof'

Col. Higginson – General Sir George Wentworth Alexander Higginson, GCB, GCVO (1826–1927), fought throughout the Crimean War and later commanded the Brigade of Guards. He served as Lieutenant Governor of the Tower of London 1888-1893 and is commemorated in his native Marlow, Buckinghamshire, by Higginson Park, adjacent to the River Thames

Col. Hamilton – Lieutenant General F W Hamilton had been slightly wounded at the battle of Inkerman, Crimea and later, as the Grenadier Guards’ historian, wrote ‘Origin and History of the First or Grenadier Guards’, London, 1874

Sunday, 9th.

Moving along some 8½ or 9 knots, passing the coast of Ireland. Arrived at Queenstown about 3 p.m. Disappointed indeed and not getting a letter from my Mother. Sent off mine by young Fitzclarence of the Revenge, having missed the mail bags. Started again from Queenstown about 4 p.m. Passed Cape Clear about 11 p.m. and so saw our last of the old kingdom. Now fairly on our way to the New World, surely this time we must get through and not be again driven back like a waif as before.

Monday, 10th.

Blowing a moderate breeze and in our favour. Ladies did not show – not much loss.

Tuesday, 11th.

Blowing fresher and ship rolling a good deal. Berths not very comfortable when on the weather side, great chance of rolling out.

Wednesday, 12th.

A pleasant companion at our table: a business man from Sheffield named Charlton, clear headed, shrewd and has evidently read and thought a good deal. Wind moderating.

Thursday, 13th.

Still making fair way, ship not at all fast, but she is old and heavy. Wind softening. Some ladies on deck and at dinner. Little Mrs Richards going out to join her husband an A.S. in Newfoundland not bad. Mrs. Langly, Crosse and Street, all of 16th Regiment, to be constantly met with at Halifax, not much acquisition, may perhaps improve on acquaintance.

Friday, 14th.

Blowing very fresh, wind nearly aft. Ladies frightened; uncomfortable and air shut out from below.

Saturday, 15th.

Dirty water, boat washed away. Ladies very frightened and consoled by the legislator Crocker of New Brunswick, who assisted Mrs. Crosse to the gentlemen’s saloon, rolled her up in his blanket and told her she would be as “snug as a bug in a rug”, he being in his shirt tails all the time. So much for country manners. A very uncomfortable morning, but the wind moderated and the evening was almost calm.

Sunday, 16th.

Helen’s birthday. Wind shifted round dead ahead, and commenced blowing towards the afternoon. Had service and a sermon from a Presbyterian clergyman on board in the morning. Great (comparative) amusement in yarning over the Crimean times with Cols. Hamilton and Higginson, and to the manifest amusement of the other passengers at the table. Poor Mrs. Crosse very frightened and we chaffed her a good deal.

Monday, 17th.

Still blowing very heavy all day, the Captain, Muir, had never seen it blow harder. Very uncomfortable, seas striking her, etc.

Tuesday, 18th.

Blowing still hard and right ahead; made scarcely any progress since yesterday. No signs of moderating until late at night. Seas washing over her and freezing on board, rigging one mass if ice. Very cold at night.

Wednesday, 19th.

Wind moderated during the night, but blew up again this morning. Crew busy clearing the ice off the lee side all the morning, tons and tons of ice. Seas began to wash over her again and we to go slow, icing up again. Getting on a little faster. Wind very strong but sea not so high, Capt. Muir says from being under the lee of the ice. Wind fortunately again moderated at night.

Thursday, 20th.

Calm but a heavy swell on, going from 9-10 knots. Thank goodness getting nearer and nearer to our journey’s end. Snowing hard all the morning. Commenced writing home. Wind hauled round dead ahead at night to blow from WNW harder than ever, an awful night; from 12 till 2 the wind roared over us like an express train. Ladies in a shocking fright. Mr. Charlton was on this occasion the preux cavalier. Colonel Higginson amused us during the evening by his caricatures of all our party. I of course was a striking resemblance.

Preux cavalier – Gallant gentleman

Friday, 21st.

Reminiscences of last night amused us all the morning; the terror and the jokes of all concerned. Still blowing very strong wind, rain and snow combined to make the deck uncomfortable and the saloon is kept, to please the foreigners, in much a state of heat that it also is not an agreeable place. Carry well through it all; a poor run.

Saturday, 22nd.

A quieter night and all had some rest. Going through the water pretty well with a promise of arriving soon, as at 12 today we should not be more than 80 miles from our destination, so I am soon to know what my work is and whether it is to be my work for long or not. Going on with my letters. Sighted the Sambro light about 6 p.m. and worked up the harbour. After a great deal of trouble got to Cunard’s quay and safety, moored about 10 p.m., a most wonderful sight to see the whole bay covered with ice, in round pieces about 3ft. in diameter and some three or four inches thick, all massed together and wanting only one or two days’ frost to seal up the approach to the harbour as effectually as Charlestown is by the Union fleet. After a great deal of trouble got hold of my baggage and putting it on a sleigh got to the Halifax Hotel, after undergoing an amount of handshaking from all our fellow passengers that would have almost made me believe I was their dearest friend; dangers passed through together do cement people who have no other interest in common. Again said goodbye to Cols. Hamilton and Higginson, good fellows both. The custom house arrangements, the street lighting, or rather almost total absence thereof, and even the hotel arrangements all point out the place as being at least a century behind any other part of the world, far behind Mauritius or even the E. Indian towns; to bed in a chilly room without a fire, and a very cold night on.

Sambro light – Sambro island is located on the western approach to Halifax and the 82ft high lighthouse, constructed in 1758, is the earliest surviving in North America. It was automated in 1988

Cunard’s Quay – The Cunard shipping line was founded by Sir Samuel Cunard, 1st Baronet (1787–1865). He was born at Halifax, the son of a carpenter and timber merchant. By 1839 he was an entrepreneur, who had earlier invested in a steamship venture, the Royal William and owned coal mines in Nova Scotia. With local backing he successfully negotiated for the British transatlantic steamship mail contract and the next year formed the British and North American Royal Mail Steam-Packet Company to operate the line's four pioneer paddle steamers on the Liverpool–Halifax–Boston route

Sunday, 23rd.

Up, curious to see what Halifax by daylight may be like, as in the dark it does not shine. Breakfasted with Daniell and then to church feeling very hot in the new uniform Mr. Johnstone has provided for me, and which I could have very well done without. However, now I have it, it must be worn. After church, to the General’s who seems pleasant and civil; Hastings Doyle has always been a favourite. Then called upon Colonel Taylor; then called upon Mr. McNab and met Capt. Lyttleton; afterwards walked to the citadel and left cards upon the 16th Regiment, meeting Neane, and on the 17th meeting young Rolf, formerly at Cortés. Dined at the hotel and then, very tired, to a most uncomfortable bed in a new room.

Hastings Doyle – Sir Charles Hastings Doyle, KCMG (1804 – 1883), Lieutenant Governor of Nova Scotia and New Brunswick

Monday, 24th.

Colonel Taylor came in and told me there was nothing whatever to do, which I am sorry to hear. We then called on the Governor, Lord Mulgrave, and heard his propositions for the organisation of the Militia which we discussed for nearly two hours. I then started with Captain Lyttleton and Major Daniell to call upon Mr. Hugonin living at McNabs island. We went by the ferry to Dartmouth, walked across the harbour from a brickfield in slush over our ankles where the surface ice was melting, and through snow over our knees, and made our call, finding Mr. and Mrs. Hugerman both very pleasant people. We then struggled back in rain reminding me of the monsoon showers, and just in time to dress to dine with General Doyle, where we met Lord Mulgrave, chatted till half past ten, and then home to bed.

Lord Mulgrave – George Augustus Constantine Phipps, 2nd Marquess of Normanby, GCB, GCMG, PC (1819 – 1890), styled Viscount Normanby between 1831 and 1838; Earl of Mulgrave from 1838 to 1863. A British Liberal politician, appointed Governor of Nova Scotia in 1853 until 1863. Later Governor of Queensland (1871-4), of New Zealand (1874-9) and Victoria (1879-81)

Mr Hugonin - Captain Roderick Hugonin and his wife Harriet (née McNab), lived in a Georgian styled house on McNab’s Island with their sons James and Roderick. Due to its strategic location at the entrance of Halifax Harbour, various fortifications were constructed there from 1860 onwards. It is now mainly a provincial park

Tuesday, 25th.

Getting into a bad habit of breakfasting very late; however that makes one meal the less every day. Picked up Colonel Taylor and wandered about looking for lodgings and found none to suit. Left my letters on Colonel Westmacott and got home to try and dry myself; freezing and snowing hard, drifting too. Dined with the Governor, found him and Lady Mulgrave pleasant enough in their own house, although described as being very high and mighty outside. Came away at 10 o’clock, read a little and to bed; Kate Coventry taking my fancy.

Colonel Westmacott – Lieut. Col. Spencer Westmacott RE, responsible for improvements to Halifax Citadel 1861-1866

Kate Coventry – ‘Kate Coventry – an Autobiography’ by G J Whyte-Melville

Wednesday, 26th.

Still very late at breakfast, must mend my ways. Called and left letters from Gratorex on F. Duffus, Esq. and on T. Kenny, Esq., also a card on the Artillery Mess. Then home to say goodbye to old Daniell who went away this afternoon overland to Portland, via St. Johns and thence to Montreal by rail. Stupid of him to go so, as he will not get there much sooner than if he had waited for the next Boston steamer. However, “the wifful he”. Found the Majors card on my table on my return home; dined with Stokes at the Hotel, chatted and to bed. Called in the afternoon on Colonel Ansell and told him about his son, then left a card for the A.Q.M.; afterwards on Capt. Chasadly who commands the Volunteers and, I hope, got into his good graces.

Thursday, 27th.

Went to office to see the Q.M.C and arrange about pay and allowances, which diminish wonderfully the nearer we come to them, being nothing more than the full pay of our rank. Afterwards had return visits from Mr. Kenny and Mr. Duffus; returned Colonel Langley’s and the Major, Mr. Hill’s cards; dined quietly last night – and very seedy, probably from the stove affecting my head – feel quite depressed and disappointed, having no employment, and no habitable place to go to and live in. My room too cold without a fire and too hot with, so that I was obliged to sit up until one o’clock a.m. with the window and door open to cool the place. Heavy preparations already going on for the ball tomorrow in the hotel.

Friday 28th.

Actually settled down to books and papers this morning. Looked over Cox’s account, the first time for one or two years. Actually also found myself in credit. Wrote my name down for the R. & C. of Mulgrave and, after drawing my pay, found out the Garrison Library and read Fraser and Blackwood steadily. Home and dined in time to dress comfortably for our ball, an introduction to the beauties? of Halifax, really not a bad party. I found out one or two nice girls and pulled on very well with them, so suppose I must try and make their acquaintance which may relieve Halifax of a little of its dreariness. To bed about 3.

Fraser – Fraser's Magazine for Town and Country, published from 1830-1882

Blackwood – Blackwoods Magazine, originally Edinburgh Monthly Magazine, published from 1817-1980