播种建立庭院草坪
草坪是庭院景观非常重要的组成部分。一个生长、维护良好的草坪除可以提高房屋的价值；更具有减少泥泞、尘土、吸收噪音，控制土壤侵蚀，并产生氧气等作用。正确草坪建立和维护，对于草坪的健康状况和外观是至关重要的。草坪的建立包括草坪种类的选择、土壤的合理准备、播种和播后管理等方面。
草坪种类的选择
适合于草坪用的草有数十种，在北美常见的包括酥油草（Fescus）、结缕草(Zoysiagrass)、百慕大蓝草（Bermudagrass）、多年生黑麦草（Perennial ryegrass）、肯塔基草（Kentucky bluegrass）和匍匐剪股颖草（Creeping Bentgrass)六类。
1.酥油草（学名Festuca L.， 英文名fescus ）：酥油草常用的有"高酥油草" （Tall fescus） 和“细叶酥油草” (Fine-leaf fescus)”，原产欧洲，耐寒冷性强、种植区域广，耐贫瘠和酸性，在沙性和酸性土壤生长良好。优点是对维护需求低，缺点是不耐踏踩。
2．结缕草 (学名Zoysia japonica L.，英文名Zoysiagrass)：结缕草坚挺、稠密、针状叶稍、叶色浓绿，生长缓慢、耐踏踩，需求维护量少，适合高尔夫球场等踏踩多的地方。该草特别适宜种植于温暖区域、且在阳光充沛的地方生长良好。
3．百慕大草（学名Cynodon dactylon L.，英文名 Bermudagrass）：百慕大草的特点根系发达，耐盐碱、耐瘠薄，且耐高温和干旱，适应性强，在贫瘠的土壤上也能生长良好，所需要的修剪和维护较少。缺点是在温度低于10°C时开始休眠、甚至叶片变黄。
4．多年生黑麦草（学名Lolium perenne，英文名Perennial ryegrass）：原产于地中海一带，为寒带最佳草种，喜湿冷气候。多年生黑麦草坚韧、簇生、质地细腻、抗践踏，可用于足球场等运到场所以及学校、幼儿园等踏踩多的地方。
5．肯塔基蓝草（Poa pratensis L.，英文名Kentucky bluegrass）： 肯塔基蓝草叶色深绿，质地细腻，耐寒冷、抗干旱、生命力强、密度高。在干燥的条件下进入休眠状态，一旦获得水分可迅速恢复。是高尔夫等运动场所、公园和庭院广泛应用的草种。
6．野牛草（学名Bouteloua dactyloides (Nutt.) J.T.，英文名 buffalograss）：起源于从Montana 到Mexico 州的一种草坪草。其草质细腻，属于需水量少、少修剪少维护的草坪草。其抗旱和抗寒性非常强，从在Minnesota到Montana，再往南到Mexico州广泛种植。非常适合大的景观面积，如公园、商业区和学校等地。
7．匍匐剪股颖草(Agrostis L．,英文名Creeping Bentgrass)：匍匐剪股颖草是一种适合于冷凉地区的草种，草质细腻、颜色浓绿，但是生长缓慢。它的缺点是耐受荫凉能力差，需要比其他的草种较多的水分、肥料、修剪和管理。
根据草坪草对温度的敏感性，可分为冷凉型草坪草和温暖型草坪草。冷凉型草坪草包括肯塔基蓝草、多年生黑麦草、酥油草(包括高酥油草和细酥油草)、匍匐剪股颖草，这些草坪草特别适合北美的中西部地区。冷凉型草坪草在土壤温度10～18°C之间、空气温度在15～24°C之间时生长最好。在中西部地区这样的最适条件多发生在春秋两季。在没有灌溉的条件性，冷凉型草坪草在夏季高温季节进入休眠。冷凉型草坪草很容易用播种的方法来建立。
温暖型草坪草：常见的有结缕草、百慕大草、野牛草等，除主要用于较温暖的大部和南部州外，还用于冬季相对的中西部地区。结缕草、百慕大草抗寒性差、对低温敏感。温暖型草坪草在冷凉型草坪草在土壤温度21～32°C之间、空气温度在27～32°C之间时生长最好。这些草坪草在炎热的夏季生长旺盛。从中秋到第二年春季，因休眠而变为棕色。结缕草、百慕大草最好通过铺草皮的方法建立草坪；野牛草则可以通过播种的方法建立草坪。
在实际应用中，上面的这些草种子常混合起来使用，以适应多种气候和土壤环境。在商店中常见到的有各种品牌的混合草坪种子，主要分为适合光照充足区域的种子、适合荫凉区域的种子、适合半阴半阳区域种子、适合干旱和燥热区域种子、适合于践踏严重区域种子及肯塔基蓝草的混合种子等。
Establishment Methods and Timing
Determining the lawn establishment method is an important first step in the establishment process. In the Midwest, lawns are normally established by seeding or sodding; zoysiagrass plugging is also used occasionally.
There are both advantages and disadvantages to seeding a lawn. A common method of establishing a lawn is seeding, which involves planting grass seed on a prepared seedbed.
The advantages of seeding are:
the desired species or cultivars can be used;
the turf plants develop in the environment in which they must ultimately survive; and
establishment usually costs less than for sodding or plugging.
The disadvantages of seeding a lawn are:
the appropriate times for establishment are limited;
the turf is usually slow to develop into a quality stand;
reseeding areas with poor germination may be required;
quality seed may be difficult to obtain in some areas;
rain or irrigation may wash seeds off slopes;
weed encroachment is often a problem; and
a constantly moist seedbed is required during germination.
Sodding entails placing squares or strips of growing turfgrass and the adhering soil onto a final planting site. The strips or squares are tightly butted to one another to produce a complete cover of turfgrass. Kentucky bluegrass, creeping bentgrass, zoysiagrass, bermudagrass, buffalograss, and occasionally tall fescue can be established by sodding.
The advantages of sodding a lawn are:
an "instant" lawn is planted;
sodded lawns can be safely trafficked sooner than seeded lawns;
dust and mud are reduced;
erosion control is achieved;
sod can be planted any time during the growing season (provided the ground is not frozen and water is available); and
good sod is weed free.
The disadvantages of sodding a lawn are:
the cost is higher than for seeding;
choice of turfgrass species and cultivars used in sod production is limited;
sod is not produced in shaded environments;
a large volume of water is required during establishment;
incompatibilities between sod farm soils and soils at the planting site can cause sod to perform poorly;
sod may shrink, allowing weeds to invade between pieces; and
the speed of sod rooting changes with the season.
Although it appears there are fewer advantages than disadvantages to seeding a lawn, do not discount the importance of species/cultivar choices and development in their ultimate planting site. For example, obtaining perennial ryegrass or fine fescue sod will be difficult, perhaps impossible, in most areas of the region. If these species are desired in the lawn, seeding is the only way to establish them. In addition, soil incompatibility sometimes develops when sod is grown on soil that is different from that of the lawn area. Soil incompatibility can result in poorly rooted sod that has little tolerance to environmental or pest stresses. Thus, in many situations, the advantages of seeding may outweigh the advantages of sodding.
Plugging is sometimes used to establish zoysiagrass in the Midwest. Plugs are 2- to 4-inch diameter pieces of zoysiagrass with the adhering soil. They are planted 6 to 12 inches apart in a well-prepared planting bed and often take up to 3 years to fully establish and fill in completely.
Seed turfgrass lawns comprised of Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, fine fescues, or tall fescue during spring or late summer and early fall . Late summer and early fall (August 15 to September 15 in central Illinois) is considered to be the best time. In the fall, weed competition is reduced, temperature s are appropriate for rapid growth and development, and grass seedlings have plenty of time to establish a good root system before the following summer's heat. Spring (April in central Illinois) establishment can also be successful. It is important, however, that adequate irrigation be available during summer's heat.
A cool season lawn can be sodded in central Illinois anytime during the growing season provided adequate irrigation water is available. Sodding or plugging a warm season lawn in central Illinois is best done in late spring to early summer (May 15 to July 1).
Soil Preparation
Proper preparation of the planting site can reduce many soil drainage and aeration, pH, and fertility problems that may not become evident until after the lawn is established. Correcting these problems after the turf is established is much more difficult than preventing their occurrence through proper site preparation, because the presence of the turf can limit your efforts. Thus, efforts to provide the best possible soil conditions are important to long-term success of a lawn.
The preparation steps (identical for seeding, sodding, or plugging) are:
1. Control weeds at the planting site.
2. Rough grade the site and remove debris.
3. Conduct soil tests.
4. Amend the soil as necessary.
5. Work and thoroughly mix the amendments into the soil to a depth of six inches.
6. Fine grade the site.
Eliminating weeds, especially perennial grassy weeds, will reduce competition with developing turfgrasses. Herbicides are valuable for eliminating weeds prior to lawn establishment. Consult the Cooperative Extension Service for a current list of recommended lawn care chemicals.
After eliminating weeds from the site, rough grade the area to facilitate surface drainage. Generally, a 1 to 2 percent slope (a drop of 1 or 2 feet for every 100 feet of run) away from buildings is adequate. Remove all debris brought to the surface by rough grading. Debris may include tree roots, stones, and leftover materials from construction.
If topsoil is needed at the planting site, incorporate it into the existing soil during rough grading. The final depth of topsoil should be at least 2 inches. Avoid using topsoil taken from sites that have recently been treated with agricultural herbicides; these herbicides could be detrimental to turfgrass establishment.
Soil testing provides a valuable means to determine if soils can support turf growth. For a small fee, commercial testing laboratories will evaluate soil pH, phosphorus, and potassium levels in a basic test. In addition, many other soil fertility and textural tests are available at an additional cost. Recommendations for corrective measures are also offered by many soil test laboratories.
Collect samples for testing during the growing season when soil temperatures are above 50·F. Samples should be 2 to 4 inches deep and the same size in diameter. Combine several (at least eight) samples collected from all similar areas in a clean bucket. For instance, in a yard having both high, dry areas and low, wet areas, two composite samples, one from each unique area, are required. Remove any plants or plant parts present in the sample and submit about a cup of each sample for analysis.
Soil reaction, a measure of acidity/alkalinity, is indicated by the pH results. The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14 with readings below 7 being acidic, above 7 being alkaline, and 7 being neutral. Based on the results of the pH test, amend soil to obtain a pH of 6 to 7 (slightly acidic). Slightly acidic soil reaction is desirable because it is at this pH that most soil nutrients are most available to growing plants. Add supplemental fertilizers as recommended by the soil test. It is easier to change soil before planting than after the grass is established.
Sulfur is used to make soil more acidic (that is. to lower pH). The amount to add depends on your soil type and the acidification desired. Consult the Cooperative Extension Service for help in calculating the sulfur required for your situation. Sulfur reacts slowly , so retest soil pH after 6 to 12 months to measure changes. Unfortunately, some soils resist acidification, making it virtually impossible to lower pH.
Ground agricultural limestone is used to make soil more basic (that is, to raise pH). Like sulfur, the amount to add depends on soil type and the desired change. Consult the Cooperative Extension Service for liming recommendations. To be effective, sulfur or limestone should be incorporated thoroughly into the soil by tilling. Avoid using slaked lime and burned lime because they are dangerous to handle.
Add phosphorus and potassium as recommended by your soil test. In the absence of a soil test, use 10 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer (or its equivalent) per 1,000 square feet to supply minimal fertility.
Amending heavy, clay soils or light, sandy soils with generous amounts of organic matter can improve the soil's drainage, aeration, and nutrient-holding capacity. If possible, apply a 2-inch layer of sphagnum peat moss, manure, compost, or some other quality organic material to your soil's surface. Use well-rotted organic matter to avoid problems with weed seeds, diseases, or other factors that can inhibit or detract from turf growth and development.
Work the amended soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches using a rotary tiller. This operation will uniformly incorporate all amendments. After rotary tilling the soil particles should be marble sized or smaller.
Fine grade the site until it is smooth. Eliminate depressions that may collect moisture. Be sure that the slope away from buildings is 1 to 2 percent. Upon finishing this step, you are ready for seeding, sodding, or plugging your lawn.
Planting
Seeding
The seed label will provide valuable information about the grass seed. Information on the label includes the name(s) of the turfgrass species and cultivars present in the package, seed purity, seed germination percentage, crop seed content, amount of inert matter, weed seed content, lot number, and last testing date. In general, select high-quality seed of turfgrass cultivars recommended by the Cooperative Extension Service (see Turfgrass Selection). Record the seed lot number in case there are problems with the seed. This information will assist the vendor or producer to solve problems with seed should they arise.
Look for high and purity germination percentage (Table 1), fresh seed (produced the previous year), and low weed seed content (as low as possible ). Avoid buying unlabeled seed. The cost of good grass seed is a small price to pay for a high-quality lawn.
Table 1. Recommended minimum seed purity and germination percentages.
NOTE: Zoysiagrass and bermudagrass are commonly established by sodding or plugging, so they are not included in this table.
Providing enough seed to insure adequate coverage is important to seeding success, especially for grasses with a bunch growth habit (Table 2.). For lawn establishment using cool season species, provide a minimum of 10 to 20 seeds per square inch. Every seed will not produce a grass plant; a healthy, mature lawn usually averages six to eight turf plants per square inch.
Different turfgrasses have different seeding rates. These rates vary according to the size and weight of turfgrass seed. For instance, Kentucky bluegrass has a small seed and a high seed count per pound. On the other hand, perennial ryegrass has a large seed and a lower count per pound. Avoid excessive seeding rates that can produce crowded, weak, unthrifty plants and increase seedling disease invasion. In addition, excessive seeding wastes seed and money.
Table 2. Recommended turfgrass seeding rates.
After choosing the turfgrass and determining the seeding rate, be sure to distribute the seed uniformly over the planting area. Use a broadcast or drop spreader. It is advisable to apply half the seed in one direction, such as north to south, and then the other half in a different direction, such as east to west, to uniformly cover the entire area.
After the seed is in place, there are two activities that are crucial to successful turf establishment. The first is making sure there is a good seed-to-soil contact. Accomplish this task by using a lawn rake to lightly mix the seed into the upper 1/4 inch of soil.
Follow the raking with a light rolling to produce a firm seed bed. A light rolling can be accomplished by using an empty water-ballast roller. Rolling not only increases seed-to-soil contact, but firms the seedbed and slows drying of the soil.
Mulch with a thin layer of clean straw to prevent drying. Don't apply mulch heavily; you should be able to see soil beneath it. Usually 35 to 50 pounds per 1000 square feet (about 1 bale) is adequate. You do not have to remove the straw after the grass seed germinates. Grass seedlings will grow up through the light straw layer and gradually cover it as the straw decomposes. Raking off the straw would injure the young grass seedlings.
The second activity crucial to seed establishment success is to make sure adequate water is available throughout the germination process. At the time of planting, irrigate frequently and lightly, wetting the upper 1/2 inch of soil. Continue watering during the period of germination. Water less frequently, but more thoroughly and deeply, as grass seedlings mature.
Average germination times (Table 3.) vary according to the turfgrass species and the conditions under which germination takes place. Soil temperatures between 60· and 85·F for cool season grasses and 70· and 90·F for warm season grasses, along with a constantly moist seed bed, result in the quickest germination.
Table 3. Average germination time for various turfgrasses.
Sodding
If possible, choose sod grown on soils similar to the soils of the planting site or the sod may not "knit" to the soil properly and will gradually decline due to shallow rooting. Be sure to select fresh sod and plant immediately after purchase.
Sod often comes in 18-inch-wide strips that are 6 feet long. Look for sod with a thin soil layer--it will root faster and be easier to install due to its lighter weight. Most sod is harvested at a soil depth of 1/4 to 1/2 inch.
Purchase fresh, healthy sod from a reputable dealer. Plant sod in a bricklike pattern with sod edges tightly butting up to one another. Do not stretch sod--it will shrink as it dries allowing weed invasion between pieces. On slopes it may be necessary to use small wooden pegs to help keep sod in place until it roots. Under good conditions sod will begin to root within 14 days.
Using a lightweight roller, roll sod immediately after laying to insure close soil contact. Initially irrigate heavily to make sure water penetrates beneath the freshly installed sod and wets the soil. Until sod is established, continue to irrigate frequently, making sure soil is dampened to encourage root development.
Post-Planting Care
Seeded Lawns
When new seedlings have reached a height of 2 inches, they may benefit from a fertilizer application. Apply 1/2 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet (if applying 10-10-10, use 5 pounds per 1,000 square feet). Water thoroughly after fertilizing. Begin mowing as turf grows using the "1/3" rule, that is, never remove more than one-third of the grass blades at any mowing. For instance, most of the cool season lawn grasses should be maintained at 2 to 3 inches. Mow these grasses when they reach 3 to 4.5 inches.
Limit heavy trafficking during the first growing season. The tender grass seedlings are subject to damage and frequently irrigated soils are easily compacted.
It may be necessary to control annual grassy weeds in spring seedings. Only one preemergence herbicide, Tupersan (siduron), can be safely applied to control these weeds at planting time. It is part of some weed and feed products containing starter fertilizer.
Postemergence broadleaf herbicide applications should not be made to new turf until it has been mowed at least three times. If portions of a lawn need to be reseeded after herbicide applications, wait at least 30 days. Be sure to read, understand, and follow the label instructions.
Sodded Lawns
Fertilize sod using a normal fertilization schedule. For instance, if you install sod in July and your normal fertilization schedule is May, June, September, and November, the first fertilization for the sod would be in September.
Mow the new sod at the desired height using the "1/3" rule: when the grass needs cutting, remove no more than one-third of the height in a single mowing.
After the sod has knit down to the soil, core aerification can help turf develop an increased number of deeper growing roots. Core aerify Kentucky bluegrass sod in the spring or fall following installation. Zoysiagrass sod can be core aerified early in the summer following planting.
Whether you establish a lawn by seed, sod, or plugs, the preparation steps are the same. Perennial weeds should be eliminated, the area should be graded, the soil should be amended and smoothed, and the best available turfgrass should be chosen for your specific needs. Then the guidelines for seeding and sodding should be followed. The final requirement is to provide adequate moisture for good establishment of the turfgrass. By establishing a healthy, vigorous turf on a properly prepared site, you will be well on your way to having an attractive lawn.
What Kind of Grass Seed Should I Buy?
First let’s start with selecting a good grass seed for your situation and some mistakes to avoild. It’s best to buy a grass seed that is made up of a variety of different kinds of grass seeds all blended together.
Why a blend? Why not just 100% Kentucky Blue Grass?
There are several reasons for using a blend of grass seeds in your lawn. Like all living things grass seeds can be attacked by different pests or conditions and if you have only one kind of grass seed in your lawn you could lose your entire lawn to an attack from insect, disease or other pest.
For instance, perennial rye grasses can be killed by pythium blight which is a disease that is triggered by really humid conditions. This isn’t something to be overly concerned about if you have a blend of grasses in your lawn because the Kentucky blue grasses and the fescue grasses won’t be affected by the blight.
But you want perennial rye grasses in your lawn because they are quick germinating, they have a nice green color and most of the varieties used today have a fine texture, almost as fine as Kentucky blue grass.
Secondly, it takes Kentucky blue grass a long time to germinate, up to 28 days, whereas perennial rye grasses can germinate in as few as 5 or 6 days. Quick germination is important because if you planted a lawn of 100% Kentucky blue grass chances are the lawn will be full of quick germinating weeds before the Kentucky blue has a chance to even come up. So when you use a blend of grass seed, the fast germinating perennial rye grasses act as a nurse crop protecting the Kentucky blue grass seeds while they go through their long germination period.
The Price of Grass Seed Matters.
Like everything else, with grass seed you get what you pay for. My suggestion is to go to a place that sells bulk grass seed, maybe a full service garden center or farm supply store and shop price. Find a good middle of the road blend of grass seed. Don’t buy the lowest price and don’t buy the highest priced seed. If you buy really cheap grass seed it’s likely to have a lot of annual rye grass and other not so desireable grasses. You’ll end up with a lawn with a lot of thick bladed grasses that would be more suitable for a pasture.
A good blend of grass seed will have a blend of different kinds of fescues, different kinds of perennial rye grasses and some Kentucky blue grass. Don’t get too worked up over the percentages because I don’t believe that the percentage of Kentucky blue grass in a pound of grass seed is acurate or relevant because Kentucky blue grass seeds are really, really tiny and have a lot more seeds per pound than do rye grasses. I was once told that in a pound of perennial rye grass there are approxiamtely 250,000 seeds whereas a pound of Kentucky blue grass will have close to 1.5 million seeds per pound! True or not? I don’t know. If you count them let me know what you find.
But in any cases, use a blend of grass seed and opt for the middle to upper price range of seed. If you live in the south where grasses are warm season grasses the same rules apply, it’s just that the kinds of grass you have differ.
Preparing the Ground Before Planting Grass Seed.
Before you start preparing the area you want to seed, give it a quick visual evaluation. Is it weedy? Does it contain thick bladed, undesirable grasses that you don’t want in your lawn? If so, I highly recommend that you first spray the area with an non selective herbicide that will not linger in the soil. I use something that contains glyphosate. But keep in mind, non selective means that the herbicide will kill any and all vegetation that it touches so read the label and wear the proper protective clothing. Once you apply the herbicide you usually only have to wait about 72 hours then you can till under the weeds that you sprayed. They may not look dead yet, but they are.
If you prefer to not use an herbicide then just till the weedy areas. Wait about 5 days, till them again, and keep repeating this process. This constant turning then drying will kill the weed and any roots in the soil as well. I’d continue this process for at least two or three weeks.
You need to prepare the soil before you plant grass seed. If you just sprinkle the grass seed on hard packed soil as soon as it rains or you water all of the seed will wash into puddles and you’ll have a lawn full of bare spots.
To prepare the soil you should work the soil to a depth of about 2″ to 3″ then rake the soil smooth, but leaving small clumps of soil won’t hurt a thing and will actually help to hold the seed in place. By working the soil before planting you are giving the soil the ability to absorb water and not have it all run off. This allows the seed to get wet and become slightly embedded in the soil without it washing away. If you work the soil too deep it will be difficult to get it raked out and it will later settle into a very uneven surface.
Planting the Grass Seed.
Once you have the soil prepared you want to spread the seed evenly over the area to be seeded. A good rule of thumb for planting a blend of grass seed is 5 lbs. per one thousand square feet but I suggest you read the label on the bag or talk to your seed supplier just to make sure of what they recommend.
Just sprinkle the grass seed over the surface of the soil. If you use a rotary type of spreader you will get good even coverage. You can buy a spreader with wheels that you push, or if you are doing a relatively small area they make small hand held spreaders that you crank. Either one works just fine. Once you have all the seed applied what I do is take a push broom and drag the push broom over the surface of the area that I just seeded. What this does is lightly mixes the seed and the soil and covers some of the seed with a light layer of soil. This aids in germination and also hides the seeds from the birds. But don’t over do it. Just drag the broom backwards with a slight amount of down pressure.
Mulching Over Grass Seed.
Once you have applied the grass seed to your lawn you should apply some kind of a mulch over the seeded area. There are a number of options. Straw is the old standard and considered somewhat old fashioned, but straw has it’s advantages. When you spread straw over your seeded area the straw lays in a criss cross pattern and some of the staw is against the seed and the soil and some of the straw is slightly elevated over the seeded areas because it is criss crossed. Think about the size of a grass seed and how tiny it is. With a single strand of straw suspened over a grass seed that single strand of straw actually provides a great deal of shade over the seeded area like latice over a patio. That’s one of the advantages of straw. The disadvantage? It blows all over the place.
What about peat moss?
I don’t like using peat moss over grass seed because peat moss is either wet or dry. When it’s dry it’s hard to get wet. It actually repels water. Once it’s wet it stays wet and if you keep it wet it’s fine. But if it dries out it’s difficult to re wet it. Is peat moss terrible to use over grass seed? No, but it doesn’t provide the shade that straw does.
What about Grass Seed Starter Mulch?
You know, the green stuff in a bag that looks like hydro mulch? I actually like this stuff because most it also contains just the right amount of starter fertilizer for grass seed and it’s easy to apply by hand or with a spreader. When it gets wet it swells up and hold moisture pretty well. I’ve used it a number of times with really good results. I like it.
What about Hydro Seed?
Hyrdo seed shmyro seed! Hydro seed is okay but there is no magic in hydro seed. Hydro seed contains three things. Grass seed, whatever kind you select, hydro mulch which is okay but nothing special, and fertilizer. I’ve done a lot of hydro seeding and I can assure you, hydro seed works exactly like I describe above. When you hydro seed you fill a big tank with water, then you dump in grass seed, hydro mulch and fertilizer. Sometimes if you are seeding on a hill they dump in glue. Yes, glue. Does the glue work? I dunno. It holds for a while but when it does wash it takes large areas with it.
The big advantage to hydro seed is that the seed is thoroughly soaked before it is applied. So if you seed manually then water really well you’ve accomplished the same thing. Hydro seed can and will wash out easier than a hand seeded lawn. And with hydro seed everything is mixed together then applied as a slurry. But this means that some of the grass is in touch with the soil and some of it is stuck to the hydro mulch and is actually on top of the mulch instead of under it.
So . . . if you’ve got a lot of money and don’t want to do the work yourself let somebody hydro seed the area for you, but don’t think that only a hydro seeded lawn will grow. Grass seed is grass seed and the only difference between hydro seeding and hand seeding is the application process.
Take Care of Freshly Planted Lawn.
Freshly planted grass seed needs to be watered on a regular basis. You have to be really careful to not miss a watering because once you water the grass seed the first time germination is initiated. If you miss a watering allow the seed to dry out once it has germinated the little tiny grass plant will die and the seed will be spent. That’s why watering after you seed is so critical. Those little tiny grass plants are really, really fine, like baby hair. If you let them dry out they will die for sure.
That’s why I like seeding in the mid fall or early spring. The soil temperature and air temperatures are warm enough for good germination but the sun is not as hot as it is during the summer months. Spring and fall are the ideal time for planting grass seed. And it usually rains more in the fall and spring.
Okay, what did I miss?