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東京男裝十一種風格地圖
東京男裝的「風格」多半不是靠單一爆款，而是一套可辨認、可複製的穿衣語法：同樣是外套、襯衫、褲子與鞋，只要比例、材質與搭配順序一換，氣質就完全不同。以下把十一種常見路線濃縮成一篇更精簡的地圖，讓你讀完能迅速抓到每一派的核心與差異。
老錢風 / Old Money
老錢風 / Old Money
老錢風來自「世家感／傳統上流」的穿衣語言，迷人之處不在昂貴，而在低調、乾淨與耐看。它以低彩度色盤（海軍藍、灰、米白、駝、黑）和看得出質地的面料（羊毛、羊絨、棉府綢、亞麻、皮革）建立氣場，剪裁合身但不緊、肩線俐落、褲線乾淨，並避免大 Logo。典型畫面是西裝外套配牛津襯衫與灰／卡其褲再配樂福鞋，或針織開襟疊白襯衫配直筒褲與皮鞋。日本入門品牌可從 RING JACKET、メーカーズシャツ鎌倉、UNITED ARROWS、BEAMS F、TOMORROWLAND、SHIPS，再加 REGAL 或 SCOTCH GRAIN 的鞋履建立完整度。
城市男孩風 / City Boy
城市男孩風 / City Boy
城市男孩風更像東京日常生活方式：懂穿、懂層次但不刻意。它最醒目的不是單品，而是「寬鬆但乾淨」的空氣感：寬是設計的寬，不是買大一號。疊穿是核心（襯衫＋薄針織＋外套，或 T 恤外罩襯衫外套），配件偏生活感（托特、棒球帽、眼鏡），鞋子多為乾淨球鞋或樂福鞋，色盤低飽和（白、藍、灰、卡其、海軍藍）。代表品牌如 AURALEE、COMOLI、Graphpaper、FreshService、DAIWA PIER39、nanamica、UNIVERSAL PRODUCTS，以及選物語境裡常被視為參照的 1LDK。
戶外機能混城市風 / Gorpcore
戶外機能混城市風 / Gorpcore
戶外機能混城市風把戶外機能帶進城市，但東京的重點是「機能要穿得像城市制服」。它靠防風、防水、快乾等機能面料與細節（尼龍、拉鍊、口袋）取勝，鞋子偏越野或機能鞋，配色多黑灰卡其，避免全套登山感。常見搭法是機能外套配素 T 或薄針織、再搭寬褲與越野鞋；或用尼龍襯衫外套搭工裝褲與機能小包。對應品牌包括 and wander、Goldwin、DESCENTE ALLTERRAIN、White Mountaineering、Snow Peak、mont-bell、NANGA，以及 THE NORTH FACE Purple Label。
美式復古日系精緻化風 / Amekaji
美式復古日系精緻化風 / Amekaji
美式復古日系精緻化風是日本把美式工裝、軍裝與丹寧做成「復刻控」後的成果：外表粗獷，內功精細，耐穿且越穿越有味道。它多用靛藍、軍綠、卡其、棕，核心單品是原色丹寧、工裝外套、軍褲與皮靴，但版型通常比美式更乾淨。常見搭法是原色丹寧配白 T 再搭工裝外套與靴，或格紋襯衫配軍褲與靴。代表品牌如 WAREHOUSE & CO.、The Real McCoy's、Buzz Rickson's、SUGAR CANE、FULLCOUNT、JAPAN BLUE JEANS、桃太郎ジーンズ。
平成Y2K風 / Heisei Y2K
平成Y2K風 / Heisei Y2K
平成 Y2K 的語法近年非常清楚：上身更貼合或更短，下身更寬更有份量，做出 A-line 拉長比例，再加腰鍊或金屬小物與厚底／chunky 鞋。它不追求複雜，而是比例一對就像。品牌上可對應 HYSTERIC GLAMOUR、UNDERCOVER、NUMBER (N)INE、FACETASM、AMBUSH、A BATHING APE。
黑系摩登（暗黑極簡）/ Kuro Mode
黑系摩登（暗黑極簡）/ Kuro Mode
黑系摩登（暗黑極簡）不是「穿黑就完了」，而是用輪廓、垂墜與材質差，把單色撐成有層次的黑。色彩壓在黑、灰、深藍，常見長外套、寬褲與層次疊穿，材質用皮、羊毛、尼龍做霧面與微光澤對比。對應品牌包括 Yohji Yamamoto、Comme des Garçons、ISSEY MIYAKE、HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE、kolor、sacai。
經典定番現代改造 / Eccentric Standard
經典定番現代改造 / Eccentric Standard
經典定番現代改造的精髓，是用「微偏心」把基本款穿出新鮮感：單品仍是風衣、MA-1、軍裝外套、套頭風衣等定番，但比例可能更短、更長、更寬、更蓬，材質也更現代化、更輕薄或機能化。穿法上最有效的是只改一個重點：要嘛改衣長、要嘛改褲寬、要嘛用意外材質的下身（尼龍、微光澤、特殊織紋）去帶出新意。對應品牌如 HYKE、nonnative、N.HOOLYWOOD、ATON、MARKAWARE。
高質感休閒 / Elevated Casual
高質感休閒 / Elevated Casual
高質感休閒可以理解成「休閒版的端正」：不靠正式單品，而靠面料、剪裁與乾淨度做成熟感。色盤多米、灰、海軍藍、黑；版型舒服但不邋遢；針織、挺棉、羊毛混紡等材質是關鍵。常見搭法是上質針織配打褶寬褲／羊毛褲，再配皮鞋或乾淨球鞋；或用挺版衛衣配西褲感寬褲與樂福鞋。對應品牌如 YAECA、BATONER、crepuscule、A.PRESSE、SETINN。
古著混搭 / Vintage Mix
古著混搭 / Vintage Mix
古著混搭以「一件古著做辨識度」為核心：主流穿搭再乾淨，也常用一件古著讓整套有故事。重點是只選一件當主角，其餘用乾淨基本款壓住，避免變成全套戲服；新舊對比會更好看。品牌方面可參考 KAPITAL、Needles、Porter Classic、Hender Scheme、orSlow。
乾淨俐落休閒 / Smart Casual
乾淨俐落休閒 / Smart Casual
乾淨俐落休閒介於正裝與休閒之間，適合上班、見客與聚餐。上身更端正（襯衫、針織、簡潔外套），下身更乾淨（打褶褲或直筒西褲感褲型），球鞋可用但要乾淨、線條簡。對應品牌如 TAKEO KIKUCHI、ABAHOUSE、SUIT SELECT、KASHIYAMA，而 UNITED ARROWS 與 TOMORROWLAND 也很能支撐這一派。
性別流動穿搭 / Gender-fluid
性別流動穿搭 / Gender-fluid
性別流動穿搭以柔軟輪廓、飄逸材質與邊界模糊的搭配讓男裝表達更流動，但不必誇張。常見垂墜、長度變化、薄料疊穿與光澤感，配件更具裝飾性但仍講究平衡。入門可從輪廓開始：寬鬆西外配垂墜寬褲，或用輕薄長版上衣配直筒寬褲，再以同色系控制整體。日本品牌如 TOGA、doublet、Sasquatchfabrix.、KIDILL、MASU 都可參考。
把這些派系真正穿得像東京，關鍵在「混搭規則」與「避免踩雷」。最有效的方法是先定一個主風格當錨點，再只加一個跨風格元素當變化點，例如城市男孩風接戶外機能的外套，老錢風用針織與皮鞋把高質感休閒拉得更端正，黑系摩登用全黑打底再以比例或材質做微改造，古著混搭則把古著控制在一件主角。底線原則很簡單：一次只讓一件單品很強，色盤先鎖兩到三色，用材質做層次而不是用花色做層次；比例比品牌重要，寬鬆不等於買大，褲腳要乾淨，鞋子會決定你更像哪一派，配件一次選一個，機能別全套，黑系靠材質與輪廓撐起層次。
最後，如果你想把這張地圖快速用在自己身上，只要回答三個問題：你常出入的場景偏正式還是偏休閒，你更重視舒適還是體面，以及你希望別人第一眼記住你的是乾淨品味還是鮮明態度。答案會幫你挑出最適合的兩派作為底盤。接著先固定兩套你最常穿、最不會翻車的「制服公式」，穿到不必思考，再慢慢把另一派的元素加進來，你的風格就會從「像某一派」變成「只有你穿得出來的那一派」。
1) オールドマネー風 / Old Money（老錢風）
1) オールドマネー風 / Old Money（老錢風）
來龍去脈
源自「世家感／傳統上流」的穿衣語言。核心不是“貴”，而是「低調、乾淨、經典剪裁＋好材質」，讓人感覺穿很多年也不會過時。
主要特徵
色盤：海軍藍、灰、米白、駝、黑（低彩度）
材質：羊毛／羊絨／棉府綢／亞麻／皮革（看得出質地）
剪裁：肩線乾淨、褲線利落，合身但不緊
避Logo：少大Logo或滿版圖案
實用穿搭方式（直接照抄）
Blazer + 牛津襯衫 + 灰/卡其褲 + 樂福鞋
針織開襟 + 白襯衫 + 直筒褲 + 皮鞋
駝色大衣 + 高領針織 + 深色直筒褲
對應日本品牌／線
RING JACKET
メーカーズシャツ鎌倉
UNITED ARROWS
BEAMS F
TOMORROWLAND
SHIPS
REGAL
SCOTCH GRAIN
In Japan, “オールドマネー風 / Old Money style” (as people use the term today) is mostly a 2020s imported label. But the Japanese roots of that look are much older: it maps most directly onto Japan’s long-running アイビー／トラッド (Ivy/Trad, aka “Ametora”) lineage—classic blazers, OCBDs, chinos, loafers, knitwear—worn with restraint and good materials.
1) Postwar foundation: Japan builds a “classic Western” wardrobe culture (1950s–early 60s)
1) Postwar foundation: Japan builds a “classic Western” wardrobe culture (1950s–early 60s)
After WWII, American culture and ready-to-wear menswear gained traction. A key driver was Kensuke Ishizu and VAN (founded 1948), which says it brought American culture into Japanese dress from the 1950s and helped spread “American traditional” in Japan.
At the same time, MEN’S CLUB (originally launched in 1954) became a major channel for explaining and popularizing American-rooted menswear to Japanese readers.
Why this matters for “Old Money” in Japan:
Japan’s “quiet, respectable, good-family” Western wardrobe became codified as learnable rules (how to dress properly, what’s appropriate), not just inherited social habit.
2) The Ivy boom becomes Japan’s “Old Money template” (mid-1960s)
2) The Ivy boom becomes Japan’s “Old Money template” (mid-1960s)
VAN + Ginza + “Miyuki-zoku”
VAN + Ginza + “Miyuki-zoku”
VAN explicitly links itself to creating trends like the Ivy Look and みゆき族 (Miyuki-zoku) in the 1960s.
Pen Online explains the relationship neatly: Ivy Look = the US Ivy League student style; VAN = the company that brought that “trad” into Japan; and Miyuki-zoku = teens who admired/consumed VAN and gathered around Ginza’s Miyuki-dori.
This is basically Japan’s first mass “aspirational classic” youth movement—very close to how “Old Money” functions as an aspirational image today.
3) 1965: Take Ivy turns it into a visual rulebook
3) 1965: Take Ivy turns it into a visual rulebook
In 1965, VAN collaborated with MEN’S CLUB’s publisher to create Take Ivy, documenting real Ivy League students; Tokyo Weekender describes it as a blueprint that shaped Japan’s vision of East Coast collegiate style.
Publishers also describe Take Ivy as originally published in Japan in 1965 and strongly tied to the explosion of Ivy-influenced fashion among students in Tokyo.
This “how-to through images” mechanism is exactly how modern “Old Money” spreads—just faster (TikTok/IG instead of magazines).
4) 1970s: Trad broadens from campus-prep into “adult casual” + utility
4) 1970s: Trad broadens from campus-prep into “adult casual” + utility
Pen Online notes that by the mid-70s MEN’S CLUB moved into a casual/outdoor “heavy duty” era (they cite a heavy-duty feature in 1976), showing how Japanese “classic” style kept evolving rather than staying frozen.
MEN’S CLUB itself (in a later retrospective) says Ivy, preppy, and heavy-duty were among the big booms it helped create in Japan.
For “Old Money in Japan,” this is where the look becomes less “student cosplay” and more a lifetime wardrobe logic (good staples, appropriate dressing, quality).
5) 1980s–2000s: Trad becomes an enduring backbone, not a headline trend
5) 1980s–2000s: Trad becomes an enduring backbone, not a headline trend
Even as Japan cycles through new fashion waves, Ivy/Trad remains the default “proper but relaxed” Western wardrobe—kept alive through:
department stores and classic makers
select shops translating “trad” into contemporary proportions
magazines continuing to teach “basics” as cultural knowledge (MEN’S CLUB positioning itself that way is explicit).
6) 2010s–2020s: revival + relabeling as “Old Money / quiet luxury”
6) 2010s–2020s: revival + relabeling as “Old Money / quiet luxury”
Two things happen:
Revival of Ivy knowledge (reprints, retrospectives, renewed interest) — Take Ivy’s re-issues and the continued cultural status of the book are widely discussed.
The global internet label “Old Money aesthetic” arrives in Japan and gets “localized” onto what Japan already has: Ivy/Trad discipline, cleaner palettes, and higher emphasis on fit/fabric and understatement.
What makes “Old Money in Japan” feel a bit different from Western Old Money
What makes “Old Money in Japan” feel a bit different from Western Old Money
More systematized: Japan loves “correct templates” (TPO thinking is literally part of VAN’s legacy).
More clean and controlled: less “I rolled out of a yacht club,” more “well-chosen staples, worn properly.”
Often Tokyo-ized: easier silhouettes, subtler styling, sometimes blended with City Boy minimalism—while still using trad items.
Old money style menswear brands in Tokyo
BEAMS F
BEAMS F
What it is: BEAMS’ dress-focused label—very “Tokyo old money”: classic tailoring with modern ease, great blazers and suits.
Typical retail:
Sport coats/jackets around ¥55,000–¥159,500 (≈S$447–1,295)
Suits commonly ¥110,000–¥198,000 (≈S$893–1,608)
UNITED ARROWS (mainline)
UNITED ARROWS (mainline)
What it is: Polished “grown-up” wardrobe—business casual to tailored trad; easy to build a restrained, well-fitted old money look.
Typical retail (examples on official store):
Suits around ¥94,600 (≈S$768)
Tailored jackets in the wider UA ecosystem often show around ¥14,850–¥24,255 (≈S$121–197) depending on sub-labels listed
SHIPS
SHIPS
What it is: Clean classic staples (oxfords, knits, chinos, soft tailoring). “Preppy-lite” without looking costume-y.
Typical retail (official category examples):
Tailored jackets commonly ¥12,980–¥55,000 (≈S$105–447)
TOMORROWLAND (TOMORROWLAND MEN)
TOMORROWLAND (TOMORROWLAND MEN)
What it is: Japanese “refined classic” select-shop style—great if you want old money with slightly more elegance and fabric interest.
Typical retail (official category examples):
Tailored jackets commonly ¥66,000–¥176,000 (≈S$536–1,429)
RING JACKET
RING JACKET
What it is: One of Japan’s most respected tailoring houses—serious “quiet status” suits, great cut, made for people who care about drape and structure.
Typical retail (official store examples):
Suits around ¥275,000 (≈S$2,233)
Maker’s Shirt Kamakura (メーカーズシャツ鎌倉)
Maker’s Shirt Kamakura (メーカーズシャツ鎌倉)
What it is: The OCBD / classic shirt backbone—very old money because the whole style depends on shirts that look right on their own.
Typical retail (official example):
Oxford shirts around ¥8,690 (≈S$71)
J.PRESS (Japan)
J.PRESS (Japan)
What it is: “Ametora/Ivy” heritage done for Japan—blazers, BD shirts, and trad staples; probably the most literal “old money” translation in Japan.
Typical retail (official examples):
BD shirts around ¥16,940 (≈S$138)
Blazers shown at ¥44,000 (≈S$357) and also ¥64,900 (≈S$527) depending on line/retailer
Brooks Brothers (Japan)
Brooks Brothers (Japan)
What it is: One of the original American “trad” institutions—iconic for sack jackets, OCBDs, and classic navy blazers (very old money DNA).
Typical retail (Japan examples):
Jackets/blazers commonly ~¥105,600–¥198,000 (≈S$857–1,608)
「老錢風」10種搭配方式
「老錢風」10種搭配方式
Navy single-breasted blazer + white Oxford shirt + grey flannel trousers + brown penny loafers
Camel wool overcoat + black merino turtleneck + dark grey straight-leg trousers + black Chelsea boots
Cream knit cardigan + blue shirt + khaki chinos + dark brown derby shoes
Deep navy knit polo + off-white pleated trousers + suede loafers (or suede desert boots)
Grey wool sweater vest + white shirt + navy pleated trousers + black loafers (slightly preppy, but not trying too hard)
Navy trench coat + white T-shirt (heavyweight cotton) + off-white straight-leg trousers + clean white sneakers (“dressy but worn relaxed” version)
Camel cashmere crewneck + white shirt (collar slightly showing) + dark blue straight-leg jeans (clean, no distressing) + brown loafers
Linen blazer (beige / light grey) + thin-striped shirt + white/beige linen trousers + leather sandals or suede loafers (summer vacation old money)
Navy double-breasted blazer (soft shoulders) + grey knit polo + white trousers + black/brown loafers (more “traditional upper-class”)
Dark brown leather bomber jacket (clean, no big logos) + cream knit + grey wool trousers + brown leather boots (old money: “swap in a slightly tougher jacket”)
海軍藍單排扣西外＋白牛津襯衫＋灰法蘭絨長褲＋棕色便士樂福鞋
駝色羊毛大衣＋黑高領（美麗諾）＋深灰直筒褲＋黑切爾西靴
奶油色針織開襟＋藍襯衫＋卡其奇諾褲＋深棕德比鞋
深藍Polo針織衫＋米白打褶長褲＋麂皮樂福鞋（或麂皮沙漠靴）
灰色羊毛背心＋白襯衫＋海軍藍打褶褲＋黑樂福鞋（微學院但不裝）
海軍藍風衣（trench）＋白T（厚磅棉）＋米白直筒褲＋乾淨白球鞋（「正裝穿鬆」版）
駝色羊絨圓領＋白襯衫（領口微露）＋深藍直筒牛仔（乾淨無破壞）＋棕色樂福鞋
亞麻西外（米色／淡灰）＋條紋襯衫（細條）＋白/米亞麻褲＋皮革涼鞋或麂皮樂福鞋（夏日度假老錢）
海軍藍雙排扣西外（軟肩）＋灰針織Polo＋白褲＋黑/棕樂福鞋（更「傳統上流」）
深棕皮革飛行夾克（乾淨、無大Logo）＋奶油色針織＋灰羊毛褲＋棕色皮靴（老錢的「外套換一點硬」）
2) シティボーイ系 / City Boy（城市男孩風）
2) シティボーイ系 / City Boy（城市男孩風）
來龍去脈
以城市生活方式為底色：像「懂穿、懂生活、懂層次」但不刻意。它和 POPEYE 的 City Boy 文化脈絡很同步；現在也已變成一套可複製的東京日常語法。
主要特徵
寬鬆但乾淨（空氣感，不是買大件）
疊穿是核心（襯衫＋針織＋外套 / T＋襯衫外套）
配件帶生活感：托特、棒球帽、眼鏡、乾淨球鞋/樂福鞋
顏色多低飽和：白、藍、灰、卡其、海軍藍
實用穿搭方式
寬襯衫 + 薄針織（披肩或直接穿）+ 寬褲 + 托特
工裝外套 + 白T + 卡其褲 + 棒球帽
Blazer（別太合身）+ 寬褲 + 球鞋（把「正裝」穿鬆）
對應日本品牌／線
AURALEE
COMOLI
Graphpaper
FreshService
DAIWA PIER39
nanamica
UNIVERSAL PRODUCTS
1LDK（偏選物店語境的“City Boy 參照系”）
What “シティボーイ系 / City Boy style” is
What “シティボーイ系 / City Boy style” is
In Japan, “City Boy” usually refers to a menswear + lifestyle ideal popularized by POPEYE, the men’s magazine launched in 1976 with the tagline “Magazine for City Boys.”
It’s less a strict outfit and more a way of dressing + living: good taste, practical choices, and “knowing what’s cool” in food, music, books, travel, and everyday objects.
Origins: the cultural “soil” before City Boy
Origins: the cultural “soil” before City Boy
1960s–70s Japan already had strong fascination with American youth style, especially Ivy/Preppy. A key artifact is Take Ivy (1965)—a Japanese-made photo book documenting Ivy League campus dress that later became hugely influential in menswear culture.
That Ivy/prep obsession created a ready audience for a magazine that could “translate” overseas youth culture into shoppable, copyable templates.
Birth: POPEYE creates a “City Boy” template (late 1970s–80s)
Birth: POPEYE creates a “City Boy” template (late 1970s–80s)
POPEYE’s early innovation wasn’t only fashion—it was format. It used a catalog-like layout showing lots of products (with prices/where to buy), influenced by publications like the Whole Earth Catalog and even American retail catalogs.
A WWD Japan interview also describes how POPEYE’s team spent time in the US to capture changing American culture and bring those discoveries back to Japan.
What that produced: an “urban young man” identity built from:
American casual classics (campus/prep/sport)
an editor-curated shopping guide
lifestyle instructions (“how to dress / eat / travel / live”)
Evolution: City Boy changes with each decade
Evolution: City Boy changes with each decade
1980s: POPEYE’s world expands beyond American campus cues into broader “good life” styling, including European and Japanese designer interests.
1990s: It adapts to the era’s street-fashion energy (without losing the magazine’s “curated guidebook” DNA).
2000s: The idea becomes more diffuse—Japan’s menswear scene splinters into many micro-styles (street, heritage, designer, outdoor), and “City Boy” is less consistently used as a single banner.
The modern revival: “City Boy” as a 2010s–2020s aesthetic
The modern revival: “City Boy” as a 2010s–2020s aesthetic
In the past decade, “City Boy” re-emerges as a widely recognized style label, strongly linked to POPEYE’s renewed influence and modern styling language (relaxed silhouettes, clean layers, practical pieces).
Two important things change in the revival:
From “buy these items” → to “build this vibe.”
The look becomes less about exact products and more about a calm, effortless, lived-in composition.From “Ivy copy” → to “Ivy + utility + modern proportions.”
The silhouette updates (wider pants, roomier tops), and you see more mixing with functional/outdoor and modern basics.
POPEYE itself acknowledges that “City Boy” isn’t one fixed archetype—people imagine it differently, which is part of the point.
What “City Boy style” typically looks like today (the recognizable codes)
What “City Boy style” typically looks like today (the recognizable codes)
Not rules—more like recurring “signals”:
Relaxed, roomy proportions (especially pants)
Layering that feels practical (shirt over tee, light jacket, simple knit)
Classic American staples (OCBD, chinos, denim, loafers/sneakers) remixed in a Japanese way
Neutral, muted colors with occasional accent
Comfort-first footwear (clean sneakers, easy leather shoes)
Subtle gear touches (cap, tote, daypack), but not hardcore outdoors
“Curated everyday life” energy—it’s as much about books/music/coffee/shop choices as the clothes
City boy style menswear brands in Tokyo
Select shops (easy to shop in Tokyo, very “City Boy”)
Select shops (easy to shop in Tokyo, very “City Boy”)
These are great because you can try many labels in one place.
BEAMS PLUS
BEAMS PLUS
Style: City Boy / Ivy / Americana
Why it works: The “POPEYE-friendly” core—OCBDs, trad layering, relaxed-but-neat fits.
Typical retail: Shirts ¥14,300–¥19,800 (S$116–S$160); pants around ¥16,500 (S$134).
UNITED ARROWS (incl. BEAUTY&YOUTH tier)
UNITED ARROWS (incl. BEAUTY&YOUTH tier)
Style: City Boy / Smart casual (clean, modern preppy)
Why it works: Crisp, office-to-weekend basics; easy to build a “clean adult” City Boy wardrobe.
Typical retail: Shirts commonly ~¥17,930–¥26,950 (S$145–S$218).
green label relaxing (United Arrows’ accessible line)
green label relaxing (United Arrows’ accessible line)
Style: City Boy / Smart casual basics (budget-friendly)
Why it works: Simple shirts, easy pants, light outerwear—good if you want “City Boy but practical.”
Typical retail: Shirts often ~¥7,920–¥11,000 (S$64–S$89); pants often ~¥9,350–¥13,200 (S$76–S$107).
SHIPS
SHIPS
Style: City Boy / Classic casual (clean, slightly preppy)
Why it works: Reliable staples (oxford shirts, knitwear, chinos) with “nice but not loud” styling.
Typical retail: Shirts commonly around ¥12,980–¥15,400 (S$105–S$125).
JOURNAL STANDARD / relume (BAYCREW’S)
JOURNAL STANDARD / relume (BAYCREW’S)
Style: City Boy / Elevated casual (a bit more relaxed & trend-aware)
Why it works: Bigger silhouettes, easy layering, more “weekend city” than office.
Typical retail: Shirts often ~¥7,920–¥13,200 (S$64–S$107), with higher-priced special pieces also common.
URBAN RESEARCH
URBAN RESEARCH
Style: City Boy / Contemporary casual
Why it works: Clean, wearable pieces; good “first stop” brand for understated Tokyo casual.
Typical retail: Shirts often around ~¥13,200 (S$107).
“Grown-up City Boy” (Tokyo contemporary brands)
“Grown-up City Boy” (Tokyo contemporary brands)
AURALEE
AURALEE
Style: City Boy / Minimal, refined basics
Why it works: Fabric-first luxury (great cottons/wools), calm colors, relaxed elegance.
Typical retail: Signature shirts around ¥39,600 (S$320).
COMOLI
COMOLI
Style: City Boy / Relaxed minimal (“Japanese grown-up”)
Why it works: Soft tailoring + roomy silhouettes; looks effortless with simple layering.
Typical retail: Shirts commonly around ¥39,600 (S$320).
Graphpaper
Graphpaper
Style: City Boy / “Uniform” contemporary (clean, roomy proportions)
Why it works: Big, neat shapes—perfect for the classic City Boy wide-top/wide-bottom balance.
Typical retail: Shirts around ¥41,800 (S$339); pants around ¥35,200 (S$285).
Heritage pieces that City Boys love (denim / fatigues / Americana)
Heritage pieces that City Boys love (denim / fatigues / Americana)
orSlow
orSlow
Style: City Boy / Amekaji-leaning casual (quiet heritage)
Why it works: The “good jeans/fatigue pants” backbone that makes simple outfits look intentional.
Typical retail: Fatigue pants around ¥21,780 (S$176).
KAPTAIN SUNSHINE
KAPTAIN SUNSHINE
Style: City Boy / Modern Americana & relaxed tailoring
Why it works: Slightly luxe take on classics—great for “preppy but soft.”
Typical retail: Tees around ¥17,600 (S$143); pants often ¥39,600–¥46,200 (S$321–S$374); jackets around ¥79,200 (S$641).
City-outdoor “City Boy” (clean tech / utility without looking like full gorpcore)
City-outdoor “City Boy” (clean tech / utility without looking like full gorpcore)
nanamica
nanamica
Style: City Boy / City-outdoor smart casual
Why it works: Minimal tech pieces that still look “town.” Easy to pair with chinos, OCBDs, loafers/sneakers.
Typical retail: Pants often ¥26,400–¥30,800 (S$214–S$249).
THE NORTH FACE Purple Label
THE NORTH FACE Purple Label
Style: City Boy / Refined outdoor (Tokyo staple)
Why it works: The classic “clean outdoor” layer—parkas, field jackets, easy tees—very Tokyo.
Typical retail: Tees around ¥8,800–¥9,680 (S$71–S$78); parkas around ¥49,500 (S$401); GORE-TEX coats can go much higher.
DAIWA PIER39
DAIWA PIER39
Style: City Boy / Clean tech utility (fishing-to-city aesthetic)
Why it works: Big functional pockets, relaxed fits, very “Tokyo clean tech” while still casual.
Typical retail: Shirts around ¥29,700–¥35,200 (S$241–S$285); pants around ¥29,700–¥31,900 (S$241–S$258).
FreshService
FreshService
Style: City Boy / “Uniform” workwear minimal (oversized, practical)
Why it works: Boxy silhouettes and easy sets—great for that effortless City Boy proportion game.
Typical retail: Pants often ~¥13,200 (S$107); jackets around ¥26,400–¥30,800 (S$214–S$249); some pieces higher.
「城市男孩風」10 種搭配方式
「城市男孩風」10 種搭配方式
Oversized blue shirt + white T-shirt (layered underneath) + wide khaki trousers + clean sneakers + tote bag
White T-shirt + chore jacket + dark blue straight-leg/wide trousers + sneakers + baseball cap
Grey knit (crewneck) + white shirt (collar and hem slightly showing) + dark wide-leg trousers + loafers
Striped long-sleeve top + relaxed denim jacket + khaki trousers + sneakers + canvas tote
Knit cardigan + plain T-shirt + pleated wide-leg trousers + sneakers (or loafers) + simple belt
Oversized white shirt (worn as an outer layer) + plain T-shirt + wide-leg jeans + sneakers + glasses
Blazer (soft shoulders, slightly oversized) + white T-shirt + wide-leg trousers + sneakers (“wear tailoring relaxed”)
Light trench / lightweight jacket + grey sweatshirt + wide-leg trousers + sneakers + small crossbody bag
Knit sweater vest + blue shirt + grey/khaki wide-leg trousers + loafers + tote bag (preppy vibe, but not formal)
Oversized short-sleeve open-collar shirt + shorts (above or below the knee) + long socks + sneakers + tote bag (classic summer City Boy)
寬版藍襯衫＋白T（內搭）＋卡其寬褲＋乾淨球鞋＋托特包
白T＋工裝外套（chore jacket）＋深藍直筒／寬褲＋球鞋＋棒球帽
灰針織（圓領）＋白襯衫（領口與下擺微露）＋深色寬褲＋樂福鞋
條紋長袖上衣＋寬鬆牛仔外套＋卡其褲＋球鞋＋帆布托特
針織開襟＋素T＋打褶寬褲＋球鞋（或樂福鞋）＋簡單皮帶
寬版白襯衫（當外套穿）＋素T＋寬牛仔褲＋球鞋＋眼鏡
Blazer（軟肩、不太合身）＋白T＋寬褲＋球鞋（把正裝穿鬆）
薄風衣／輕外套＋灰衛衣＋寬褲＋球鞋＋小斜挎包
針織背心＋藍襯衫＋灰/卡其寬褲＋樂福鞋＋托特包（學院感但不正式）
寬版短袖襯衫（開領）＋短褲（膝上或膝下）＋長襪＋球鞋＋托特包（夏天 City Boy 經典）
3) ゴープコア / Gorpcore（戶外機能混城市）
3) ゴープコア / Gorpcore（戶外機能混城市）
來龍去脈
把戶外機能的「舒服、耐天氣、好走」帶進城市日常。東京街頭常見做法是：用乾淨基本款壓住戶外感，讓機能看起來像「城市制服」。
主要特徵
機能面料：防風、防水、快乾；尼龍、拉鍊、口袋多
鞋友善：越野跑鞋/機能鞋常見
配色多黑灰卡其，避免「全套登山感」
實用穿搭方式
機能外套 + 素T/針織 + 寬褲 + 越野鞋（最常見）
尼龍襯衫外套 + 工裝褲（束口/直筒）+ 機能小包
全身低彩度 + 讓外套當唯一主角
對應日本品牌／線
and wander
Goldwin
DESCENTE ALLTERRAIN
White Mountaineering
Snow Peak
mont-bell
NANGA
THE NORTH FACE Purple Label
In Japan, “gorpcore” (a Western term coined in 2017) is basically the global name for something Japan had been developing for years under labels like アウトドアミックス (outdoor-mix) / シティアウトドア (city-outdoor)—wearing real outdoor/technical gear as everyday city clothing.
1) Pre-history in Japan: strong outdoor manufacturing + “town-use” mindset
1) Pre-history in Japan: strong outdoor manufacturing + “town-use” mindset
Japan has long had serious outdoor/technical production and licensing ecosystems—especially Goldwin, which became deeply tied to The North Face in Japan (licensing/distribution history) and later helped create Japan-specific expressions of outdoor wear.
This matters because Japan didn’t need gorpcore to “invent” technical clothing—it already had the materials, patternmaking, and a consumer culture that appreciates functional details.
2) Early “Japan-style gorpcore”: nanamica + Purple Label (2003–)
2) Early “Japan-style gorpcore”: nanamica + Purple Label (2003–)
A major Japan-specific turning point is 2003, when nanamica is described as starting with the idea of translating outdoor apparel performance into town use, while also developing The North Face Purple Label as a collaboration/line in that same ecosystem.
This is basically the blueprint for “Japanese gorpcore”: clean silhouettes + tech fabrics + wearable color palettes, not loud mountaineer cosplay.
3) Late-2000s to early-2010s: outdoor becomes fashionable lifestyle (not just gear)
3) Late-2000s to early-2010s: outdoor becomes fashionable lifestyle (not just gear)
Japan’s outdoor trend didn’t only grow from hiking—music festivals and outdoor leisure helped pull younger people outside, and the “山ガール (yama-girl)” boom (around 2009–2010) made “functional outdoor clothing can be cute/stylish” a mainstream idea.
Mens/lifestyle media also pushed “gear-mix” styling—POPEYE even ran features around 2010 explicitly framed around an “outdoor golden age” and mixing real gear into looks.
4) 2010s: “crossover” era — outdoor × daily wear becomes normal
4) 2010s: “crossover” era — outdoor × daily wear becomes normal
By the 2010s, Japan’s outdoor fashion story is often described as a daily-wear crossover accelerating: functional materials, small technical bags, trekking pants, etc., entering everyday wardrobes.
Purple Label’s own positioning captures the Japan flavor well: it repeatedly frames itself as “outdoor wear that functions in the city” and uses themes like “The Mountain Ivy” (mixing outdoor heritage with Ivy/trad).
5) Late-2010s to 2020s: the word “gorpcore” arrives; Japan becomes a reference point
5) Late-2010s to 2020s: the word “gorpcore” arrives; Japan becomes a reference point
Globally, “gorpcore” gets named in 2017.
But by then, Japan already had a mature “city-outdoor” pipeline (nanamica/Purple Label, select shops, refined technical brands). In the 2020s, Japanese technical fashion gained even more global attention—Goldwin is often cited as a major force behind Japan’s outdoor-fashion influence, and it launched experimental lines like Goldwin 0 to push the design/tech frontier.
What’s uniquely “Japanese” about gorpcore
What’s uniquely “Japanese” about gorpcore
Cleaner + more tailored than many Western gorpcore looks (less “trail uniform,” more “city uniform”).
Strong Japan-only / Japan-led lines (e.g., Purple Label’s Japan-specific identity and development structure).
The style is often framed as lifestyle editing (how you live in the city) rather than “hiking aesthetic.”
Gorpcore menswear brands in Tokyo
Refined “city gorpcore” (clean silhouettes, tech fabrics)
Refined “city gorpcore” (clean silhouettes, tech fabrics)
nanamica → Gorpcore (adult) / utility smart casual
Quiet, minimal “grown-up outdoor” with Gore-Tex coats and easy, tailored tech trousers.
Typical prices:
Gore-Tex coats: ¥82,500–¥132,000 (S$668–S$1,069)
Jackets: ¥53,900–¥75,900 (S$437–S$615)
The North Face Purple Label (JP line) → Gorpcore (refined) / heritage-outdoor mix
Japan-only “clean outdoor classics” (65/35 fabrics, neat parkas, field pants) that read outdoorsy without looking like hiking gear.
Typical prices:
Tees: ¥8,800–¥14,300 (S$71–S$116)
Pants: ~¥24,200 (~S$196)
Gore-Tex coats: ¥89,100–¥107,800 (S$722–S$873)
Goldwin 0 → Techwear / minimal outdoor (clean gorpcore)
Goldwin’s more conceptual line: minimal, modular, very “Tokyo tech.”
Typical prices (examples):
Jackets: ~¥55,000 (~S$446)
Parkas: ~¥154,000 (~S$1,247)
Pants: ~¥48,400 (~S$392)
DESCENTE ALLTERRAIN → Urban performance / techwear gorpcore
Clean, engineered outerwear (seam construction, pattern tech) that still looks sharp in the city.
Typical prices (examples):
Hard shells: ~¥60,500–¥104,500 (~S$490–S$846)
Pants: ~¥33,000–¥44,000 (~S$267–S$356)
ALLTERRAIN I/O → Tech smart casual / office-gorpcore
The “24-hour” business-to-casual line: softer, cleaner pieces that still move like sportswear.
Typical prices:
Jackets: ~¥24,200–¥35,200 (~S$196–S$285)
DAIWA PIER39 → Urban utility / fishing-tech (gorpcore adjacent)
Big pockets, relaxed silhouettes, performance fabrics—very popular for “city outdoor” layering.
Typical prices:
Shirts: ~¥22,000–¥35,200 (~S$178–S$285)
Easy trousers: ~¥31,900 (~S$258)
“Fashion hiker” gorpcore (more technical, more styling)
“Fashion hiker” gorpcore (more technical, more styling)
and wander → Gorpcore / fashion-outdoor
Technical hiking materials + fashion detailing (reflectives, pockets, layered systems).
Typical prices (examples):
Rain shells: ~¥46,200–¥57,200 (~S$374–S$463)
Pants: ~¥30,800–¥37,400 (~S$249–S$303)
Down jacket (example): ~¥82,500 (~S$668)
Practical outdoor that still works for gorpcore
Practical outdoor that still works for gorpcore
Snow Peak (apparel) → Outdoor lifestyle / clean gorpcore
Camp brand with understated colors and roomy comfort—great for “soft gorpcore.”
Typical prices (example):
Everyday Down Jacket: ¥35,200 (was ¥44,000) (~S$285 / ~S$356)
mont-bell → Functional outdoor / value gorpcore
Japan’s performance/value king: lighter, simpler, very easy to wear in the city if you keep it monochrome.
Typical prices (examples):
Storm Cruiser jacket: ~¥24,000 (~S$194)
Other rain jackets shown nearby: ~¥25,500–¥29,200 (~S$207–S$237)
Workman / Workman Plus → Budget gorpcore / workwear-functional
Cheap-but-functional rainwear/insulated pieces; perfect for experimenting with gorpcore silhouettes without spending big.
Typical prices (examples):
AEGIS waterproof/cold jacket: ¥6,800 (~S$55)
Rainwear examples shown: ~¥4,900–¥5,500 (~S$40–S$45)
「戶外機能混城市」10種搭配方式
「戶外機能混城市」10種搭配方式
GORE-TEX shell jacket (black/grey) + plain T-shirt + wide straight-leg trousers (black) + trail running shoes + small technical crossbody bag
Lightweight synthetic jacket (navy) + lightweight knit + cargo pants (khaki/olive) + trail shoes
Nylon shirt-jacket (shacket) + white T-shirt + cuffed jogger pants (black) + technical sandals + utility waist bag
Fleece jacket + solid-color long-sleeve T-shirt + wide trousers (grey) + trail running shoes + baseball cap
Lightweight down vest (black) + sweatshirt/hoodie (grey) + cargo pants (army green) + hiking boots (clean/minimal style)
2.5-layer waterproof jacket (grey) + nylon shorts (black, above/below the knee) + long socks + trail running shoes + small backpack
Softshell jacket (khaki) + quick-dry T-shirt + wide nylon trousers (black) + trail shoes (let the shoes be the star)
Fishing vest / technical vest + white T-shirt + straight-leg jeans (dark indigo) + trail shoes (city mix-and-match version)
Lightweight anorak (pullover windbreaker) + thin long-sleeve top + wide cargo trousers + small utility bag + trail shoes
Shell jacket (dark color) + shirt (as an inner layer with the collar showing) + wide trousers (grey/black) + trail shoes (more of an “urban uniform”)
GORE-TEX 風殼外套（黑/灰）＋素T＋寬直筒長褲（黑）＋越野跑鞋＋小機能斜挎包
輕薄化纖夾克（深藍）＋薄針織＋工裝褲（卡其/橄欖）＋越野鞋
尼龍襯衫外套（shacket）＋白T＋束口褲（黑）＋機能涼鞋＋機能腰包
抓絨外套（fleece）＋素色長袖T＋寬褲（灰）＋越野跑鞋＋棒球帽
輕量羽絨背心（黑）＋衛衣（灰）＋工裝褲（軍綠）＋登山靴（乾淨款）
2.5L 防水外套（灰）＋尼龍短褲（黑，膝上/膝下）＋長襪＋越野跑鞋＋小背包
軟殼外套（卡其）＋速乾T＋尼龍寬褲（黑）＋越野鞋（鞋當主角）
釣魚背心/機能背心＋白T＋直筒牛仔（深藍）＋越野鞋（城市混搭版）
輕薄 anorak（套頭風衣）＋薄長袖＋寬工裝褲＋機能小包＋越野鞋
風殼外套（深色）＋襯衫（當內層露領）＋寬褲（灰/黑）＋越野鞋（更「城市制服」）
4) アメカジ / Amekaji（美式復古的日本精緻化）
4) アメカジ / Amekaji（美式復古的日本精緻化）
來龍去脈
日本把美式工裝/軍裝/丹寧做得非常「復刻控」：布料、縫線、版型比例都更講究，所以呈現「粗獷外表＋精細內功」。
主要特徵
重磅、耐穿、越穿越有味道（靛藍、軍綠、卡其、棕）
核心單品：原色丹寧、chore jacket、軍褲、皮靴
版型常更乾淨（不是美式那種隨便大件）
實用穿搭方式
原色丹寧 + 白T + 工裝外套 + 靴
格紋襯衫 + 軍褲 + 皮帶 + 靴
牛仔外套 + 工裝褲 + 乾淨球鞋（更日常）
對應日本品牌
WAREHOUSE & CO.
The Real McCoy's
Buzz Rickson's
SUGAR CANE
FULLCOUNT
JAPAN BLUE JEANS
桃太郎ジーンズ
What “アメカジ / Amekaji” means in Japan
What “アメカジ / Amekaji” means in Japan
アメカジ is shorthand for “American casual”—a Japanese umbrella category covering denim, workwear, military, varsity/college, outdoor, and heritage sportswear. In practice it overlaps with アメトラ (Ametora = American Traditional), but Amekaji is usually broader (more jeans/boots/work jackets/outdoor gear) than neat Ivy/Trad.
Origins and development (Japan timeline)
Origins and development (Japan timeline)
1) Postwar exposure → “American clothes as aspiration” (late 1940s–1950s)
1) Postwar exposure → “American clothes as aspiration” (late 1940s–1950s)
After WWII, American culture became highly visible in Japan, and Western clothing moved from rare novelty to something young people wanted to copy and own.
A key institutional driver was VAN (Ishizu Kensuke / VAN Jacket), which built a business and a rulebook around “how Japanese men should dress” in Western styles. Academic and historical accounts trace VAN’s growth from the early 1950s and its major influence on Japan’s menswear culture.
2) The Ivy/Trad boom becomes the first “Amekaji engine” (late 1950s–1960s)
2) The Ivy/Trad boom becomes the first “Amekaji engine” (late 1950s–1960s)
Before Amekaji became “jeans and boots,” Japan’s big American-style wave was Ivy/Trad:
VAN helped popularize アイビールック (Ivy Look) and the social phenomenon みゆき族 (Miyuki-zoku) around Ginza in the mid-1960s.
MEN’S CLUB (founded 1954) taught American-rooted menswear to Japanese readers and later credited itself with turning Ivy and related movements into major booms.
This matters because Amekaji in Japan grew from a culture of learning, cataloging, and reproducing American styles—not just “wearing casual clothes.”
3) 1965: Take Ivy turns “American style” into a copyable visual manual
3) 1965: Take Ivy turns “American style” into a copyable visual manual
The 1965 photo book Take Ivy (published in Japan) functioned like a lookbook “operating system” for Ivy style and helped ignite mass adoption among Japanese youth.
Even when later waves moved away from clean-cut Ivy, Japan kept the habit of treating American style as something you can study and recreate precisely.
4) 1970s: the shift from “campus trad” → “real America” (denim / work / outdoor)
4) 1970s: the shift from “campus trad” → “real America” (denim / work / outdoor)
This is where Amekaji (in the modern sense) really accelerates:
Made in U.S.A. Catalog (1975) became a major “American goods encyclopedia” moment—fueling obsession with jeans, boots, outdoor brands, and Americana objects.
Heavy Duty (ヘビーデューティー) enters the mainstream via magazines like MEN’S CLUB, blending outdoor/work gear into everyday wear; key figures and publications around 1976–1977 helped formalize the style (including the landmark book ヘビーデューティーの本 in 1977).
A useful way to think of this era: Japan’s “American casual” expands beyond Ivy into workwear + militarias + outdoor utility, which becomes core Amekaji DNA.
5) Late 1980s–1990s: the “replica / reproduction” revolution (denim & vintage accuracy)
5) Late 1980s–1990s: the “replica / reproduction” revolution (denim & vintage accuracy)
Japan then develops a uniquely intense subculture: meticulous reproductions of vintage American garments.
The Osaka Five (Studio D’Artisan, Denime, Fullcount, Warehouse, Evisu) are widely cited as pioneers of the early-1990s Japanese denim boom and the reproduction mindset.
This period helps move Amekaji from “American-inspired” to “Japan perfecting American heritage,” which later becomes globally influential.
6) 2000s: Japan exports “heritage Americana” back to the world
6) 2000s: Japan exports “heritage Americana” back to the world
By the 2000s, Japanese Amekaji—especially raw denim, repro workwear, and militaria—is a global reference point, with overseas retailers and enthusiasts treating Japanese makers as top-tier for accuracy and craftsmanship. (This “Japan preserved/saved American style” idea is explicitly discussed around Ametora.)
7) 2010s–2020s: diversification + mainstreaming (heritage, thrift, and hybrid styling)
7) 2010s–2020s: diversification + mainstreaming (heritage, thrift, and hybrid styling)
Amekaji becomes less a single “boom” and more a permanent wardrobe language:
Heritage media and product culture remain strong (e.g., Lightning and its “archives” ecosystem around vintage denim, Red Wing, aloha shirts, etc.).
At the same time, Amekaji mixes with other Japanese styles (City Boy, clean tech, gorpcore-adjacent “outdoor mix”), so you’ll see more wide silhouettes, calm palettes, and modern comfort, while the core items (denim, OCBDs, fatigue pants, boots) stay recognizable.
What’s distinctly “Japanese” about Amekaji
What’s distinctly “Japanese” about Amekaji
It’s research-driven: treated as something to document, learn, and “do correctly” (magazines, catalogs, manuals).
It’s craftsmanship-driven: reproduction culture (especially denim) becomes a national strength with global prestige.
It’s a living system: it continuously absorbs new “American” sources (outdoor, military, sportswear) and re-edits them for Japanese taste and proportions
Amekaji menswear brands in Tokyo
Ivy / Ametora-leaning Amekaji (clean, preppy base)
Ivy / Ametora-leaning Amekaji (clean, preppy base)
BEAMS PLUS
What it is: Japanese “Ivy + Americana” staples done very wearable—OCBDs, chinos, blazers, varsity/work details but kept tidy.
Typical retail: OCBD / striped Oxford shirts around ¥14,300 (≈ S$116).
orSlow
What it is: “Slow-made” vintage basics—softly broken-in denim, fatigue pants, chambray/work shirts. Great for relaxed Amekaji without looking costume-y.
Typical retail: 107 Ivy Fit denim listed around ¥29,700 (≈ S$241).
Core Amekaji denim & workwear (repro / heritage jeans)
Core Amekaji denim & workwear (repro / heritage jeans)
Sugar Cane (Toyo Enterprises)
What it is: Classic Americana workwear with a big focus on denim history (1947/1966 style references, etc.). Very strong value vs. some “super repro” brands.
Typical retail: 1947 model standard denim shown at ¥21,780 (≈ S$176).
WAREHOUSE & CO.
What it is: One of the most respected repro houses—excellent fabric development and “period-correct” construction.
Typical retail: 1947 model jeans listed ¥27,000 + tax (≈ S$219 before tax).
FULLCOUNT
What it is: Famous for soft hand-feel denim (often Zimbabwe cotton) and very wearable fits—good “daily driver” repro denim.
Typical retail: 1108 slim-straight denim listed ¥30,580 (≈ S$248).
Studio D’Artisan
What it is: “Osaka Five” legacy brand—strong denim credibility, lots of classic jeans + workwear items.
Typical retail: SD-101 jeans listed ¥30,580 (≈ S$248).
Samurai Jeans
What it is: Known for heavier-ounce, high-character denim and bold detailing—more “denim hobbyist” energy, still very Amekaji.
Typical retail: S510XX 19oz model listed ¥28,800 (≈ S$233).
Military reproduction Amekaji (deck jackets, flight jackets, uniforms)
Military reproduction Amekaji (deck jackets, flight jackets, uniforms)
Buzz Rickson’s (Toyo Enterprises)
What it is: Probably the most famous Japanese military repro label—especially U.S. Navy / Air Force pieces.
Typical retail: N-1 deck jacket BR15345 listed ¥86,900 (≈ S$704).
The Real McCoy’s
What it is: Ultra-high-end repro with obsessive patterns/materials; “forever pieces” territory.
Typical retail: N-1 deck jacket listed ¥121,000 (≈ S$980).
(Their basics can be pricey too—e.g., loopwheel tee listed ¥8,800 (≈ S$71).)
“Grown-up” Amekaji (heritage mood, cleaner silhouette)
“Grown-up” Amekaji (heritage mood, cleaner silhouette)
Nigel Cabourn (Japan line)
What it is: Military/workwear inspiration with a mature, practical feel—chinos, field jackets, rugged staples.
Typical retail: Basic chino pant listed ¥29,700 (≈ S$241).
Kaptain Sunshine
What it is: Modern Americana through a luxury-fabric lens—easy, roomy silhouettes; looks “heritage” but refined.
Typical retail anchors: tees ¥15,400 (≈ S$125), shirts ¥44,000–¥52,800 (≈ S$356–S$428), pants ¥46,200 (≈ S$374), coats around ¥110,000 (≈ S$891) (examples shown on their online store category listings).
「美式復古日系精緻化風 」10種搭配方式
「美式復古日系精緻化風 」10種搭配方式
Raw denim jeans + white T-shirt + chore jacket + leather boots
Denim jacket (Type II/III) + grey sweatshirt/hoodie + khaki military trousers + leather boots
Flannel plaid shirt + military trousers (OG-107 / M-65 cut) + belt + leather boots
White T-shirt + M-65 field jacket + raw denim + leather boots (or vintage-style running shoes)
Henley top + overalls / work pants + chore jacket + boots
Chambray shirt (light-blue work shirt) + dark denim + workwear vest + boots
Denim shirt + brown leather jacket (or suede jacket) + dark indigo jeans + boots
Knit sweater (cable / fisherman style) + jeans + hunting jacket (or short work jacket) + boots
Retro repro sports jacket (cropped) + white T-shirt + military trousers + retro sneakers (New Balance / Converse vibe)
Short work jacket + white T-shirt + relaxed-fit denim (a bit wide but not sloppy) + leather boots (hem slightly stacked or cuffed)
原色牛仔褲＋白T＋工裝外套（chore jacket）＋皮靴
牛仔外套（Type II/III）＋灰衛衣＋卡其軍褲＋皮靴
法蘭絨格紋襯衫＋軍褲（OG-107/M-65褲型）＋皮帶＋皮靴
白T＋M-65軍外套＋原色丹寧＋皮靴（或復古跑鞋）
亨利領上衣（Henley）＋吊帶褲／工裝褲＋工裝外套＋靴
chambray 襯衫（淺藍工裝襯衫）＋深色牛仔＋工裝背心＋靴
牛仔襯衫＋棕色皮衣（或麂皮外套）＋深藍牛仔＋靴
針織毛衣（麻花/漁夫）＋牛仔褲＋獵裝外套（或短版工裝外套）＋靴
復刻運動外套（短版）＋白T＋軍褲＋復古球鞋（New balance/Converse 風格）
工裝短外套＋白T＋寬鬆丹寧（略寬但不垮）＋皮靴（褲腳微堆或反摺）
5) 進化系 平成Y2K / Heisei Y2K（進化系 平成Y2K）
5) 進化系 平成Y2K / Heisei Y2K（進化系 平成Y2K）
來龍去脈
Y2K 回潮在日本會跟「平成」氣質綁在一起。近一年的輪廓重點很明確：上身更貼合/更短、下身更寬更有份量(A-line)，靠比例拉長腿，再用配件和厚鞋加一點“潮”。
主要特徵
上：短版、合身、貼身內搭
下：バギーデニム、寬西褲、份量感褲型
配件：腰鍊/金屬小物/厚底或 chunky 鞋
實用穿搭方式
貼身上衣 + 寬牛仔 + 厚底鞋（最直球）
貼身內搭 + 寬鬆外套 + 寬褲（外鬆內貼也很Y2K）
上半身乾淨單色 + 下身寬褲主角 + 腰間小配件收尾
對應日本品牌
HYSTERIC GLAMOUR
UNDERCOVER
NUMBER (N)INE
FACETASM
AMBUSH
A BATHING APE
SHIBUYA109 lab.
1) Origins: what “Y2K style” originally meant
1) Origins: what “Y2K style” originally meant
Y2K literally refers to the Year 2000 era (roughly late 1990s–early 2000s).
Culturally it was tied to:
tech optimism + “the future is now” feeling (internet, gadgets, early digital life)
pop celebrity culture and flashy consumer aesthetics
Fashion signals from that era:
shiny / metallic / glossy fabrics, vinyl-like textures
sporty / techy silhouettes (track tops, nylon jackets, slim sunglasses)
logo/graphic-heavy pieces, “digital” motifs
low-rise, mini proportions (especially in womenswear, but the vibe spilled over)
That’s the global “Y2K vocabulary” that later revivals borrow from.
2) How it becomes specifically “Heisei Y2K” in Japan
2) How it becomes specifically “Heisei Y2K” in Japan
“Heisei Y2K” isn’t just “Japan doing Y2K.” It’s Y2K filtered through Heisei-era Japanese subcultures and everyday media.
Think of it as 3 big Japanese ingredient streams:
A) Shibuya “gal” (平成ギャル) influence
A) Shibuya “gal” (平成ギャル) influence
maximal styling: bold makeup/hair, platform shoes, flashy accessories
body-conscious or high-contrast looks
a very “Heisei local” kind of glamour
B) Harajuku / Ura-Harajuku street lineage
B) Harajuku / Ura-Harajuku street lineage
graphic streetwear, playful logos, collectible drops
sneaker culture and bold outerwear
this lane is where early-2000s Japanese street brands become part of the “Heisei Y2K memory”
C) Heisei “subculture” aesthetics
C) Heisei “subculture” aesthetics
punk / goth / fetish-ish elements, dark romantic styling
sometimes mixed into Y2K as contrast (cute + dark, sporty + gothic)
So “Heisei Y2K” = the era’s global Y2K signs + Japanese youth/style ecosystems of the 2000s.
3) What “evolved” (進化系) means: how the revival changed
3) What “evolved” (進化系) means: how the revival changed
The key idea: it’s not a strict reenactment. It’s “Y2K, but updated.”
(1) From “copying the era” → to “remixing references”
(1) From “copying the era” → to “remixing references”
Modern Heisei Y2K is usually a collage:
some true early-2000s references
mixed with later 2000s/early 2010s pieces
plus current Korean/Chinese trend styling cues in hair/makeup/silhouette (even when the clothes are “Heisei-coded”)
(2) The silhouette updated to today’s proportions
(2) The silhouette updated to today’s proportions
Even when the vibe is 2000s, the shape often becomes 2020s:
wider pants, baggier denim/cargo
cropped/short outerwear, but paired with modern volume
layering is cleaner and more intentional (less “random,” more “styled for camera”)
(3) Better materials and “adult-ized” execution
(3) Better materials and “adult-ized” execution
The evolved version often looks less costume and more wearable:
tech fabrics that perform better
cleaner construction
fewer cheap-looking details, more controlled “one loud item + basics” approach
(4) Social media accelerates it into a “style template”
(4) Social media accelerates it into a “style template”
TikTok/Instagram turns a messy era into:
recognizable “outfit formulas”
quick micro-trends (glasses shape, shoe type, bag type)
constant re-labeling: Heisei Y2K, Y3K, cyber, clean Y2K, etc.
4) Two main branches of “Evolved Heisei Y2K” today
4) Two main branches of “Evolved Heisei Y2K” today
You’ll usually see it split into these two vibes:
A) “Heisei gal / loud revival”
A) “Heisei gal / loud revival”
bold prints, big logos, shiny textures
short tops, sharp contrast, statement accessories
a more direct nod to 2000s Japanese youth culture
B) “Clean tech / adult Y2K”
B) “Clean tech / adult Y2K”
restrained palette (black/grey/silver, or clean neutrals)
tech materials (nylon, water-resistant shells), sleek sneakers
fewer loud graphics; more “future commuter” than “club flyer”
(Some people add a third: subculture mix — goth/punk accents layered into either A or B.)
5) Why it grew (development drivers)
5) Why it grew (development drivers)
20-year nostalgia cycle: early 2000s becomes “retro” for Gen Z
thrift + archive culture: old pieces become status items
Japan’s Heisei nostalgia becomes a trend object (music, gadgets, magazine aesthetics)
platform algorithms spread “look recipes” extremely fast
Clean-tech Heisei Y2K–friendly menswear brands in Tokyo
DESCENTE ALLTERRAIN I/O
DESCENTE ALLTERRAIN I/O
Style: Clean tech / sporty smart casual (sleek, minimal, “future office-athletic”).
Typical retail:
Tech tees: ¥12,100 (≈S$98)
Shirts/polos: ¥16,500–¥22,000 (≈S$134–178)
Jackets: ¥24,200–¥35,200 (≈S$196–285)
Pants: ¥24,200 (≈S$196)
Goldwin / Goldwin 0
Goldwin / Goldwin 0
Style: Clean tech / quiet performance (matte technical fabrics, refined silhouettes).
Typical retail (examples):
Tops: ¥15,400 (≈S$125)
Pants: ~¥33,000 (≈S$267)
Jackets: ~¥24,200–¥53,900 (≈S$196–437)
nanamica
nanamica
Style: “City outdoor” minimal (clean lines + functional textiles; very Tokyo “adult Y2K”).
Typical retail (examples):
Shirts: ¥20,900 (≈S$169)
Pants: ¥29,700 (≈S$241)
Sweats/knits: ¥26,400–¥35,200 (≈S$214–285)
Jackets: ~¥53,900 (≈S$437)
THE NORTH FACE Purple Label (via nanamica)
THE NORTH FACE Purple Label (via nanamica)
Style: Clean gorpcore / refined outdoors (90s–00s outdoor DNA, but “city-clean”).
Typical retail (examples):
Tees: ¥8,800 (≈S$71)
Pants: ¥24,200 (≈S$196)
Coats/outerwear: ~¥107,800 (≈S$873)
TEATORA
TEATORA
Style: Tech smart casual / travelwear (packable, wrinkle-resistant; “airport-to-office” Y2K).
Typical retail (examples):
Pants: ¥44,000 (≈S$356)
Jackets: ¥74,800 (≈S$606)
Coats: ¥96,800–¥99,000 (≈S$784–802)
and wander
and wander
Style: Tech gorpcore (technical layering, light shells; easy to steer “clean” with dark neutrals).
Typical retail (examples):
Pants: ¥29,700–¥39,600 (≈S$241–321)
Shells/rain: ¥46,200–¥57,200 (≈S$374–463)
High-end shells: ¥88,000–¥99,000 (≈S$713–802)
alk phenix
alk phenix
Style: Clean tech utility (function-first patterns; often looks like “minimal cyber outdoors”).
Typical retail (examples):
Pants (regular price shown): ¥27,500–¥31,900 (≈S$223–258)
Outerwear example: ~¥46,200 (≈S$374)
meanswhile
meanswhile
Style: Clean tech / modern utility (sleek, modular, “designer gear” vibe).
Typical retail (examples):
Shirts: ¥42,900 (≈S$347)
Pants: ¥48,400 (≈S$392)
Shell jacket: ¥75,900 (≈S$615)
Snow Peak (apparel line)
Snow Peak (apparel line)
Style: Clean outdoors / camp-to-city (simple shapes; great for “soft tech” looks).
Typical retail (examples):
Down jacket: ¥44,000 (≈S$356)
GORE-TEX down: ¥143,000 (≈S$1,158)
N.HOOLYWOOD (Mister Hollywood / Compile)
N.HOOLYWOOD (Mister Hollywood / Compile)
Style: Clean contemporary with subtle Y2K (track silhouettes, sharp casual, minimal branding).
Typical retail (examples):
Tees: ¥11,000–¥19,800 (≈S$89–160)
Pants: ¥39,600–¥48,400 (≈S$321–392)
Outerwear: ~¥66,000 (≈S$535)
White Mountaineering BLK
White Mountaineering BLK
Style: Clean tech designer (sleek black performance, premium fabrics; “high-end clean tech”).
Typical retail (examples):
Jackets: ¥79,200–¥83,600 (≈S$642–677)
Pants: ¥47,300–¥52,800 (≈S$383–428)
GORE-TEX parka: ¥159,500 (≈S$1,292)
「進化系 平成Y2K風」10種搭配方式
「進化系 平成Y2K風」10種搭配方式
Cropped fitted jacket + white T-shirt (or tank top) + baggy jeans + platform sneakers + waist chain
Fitted long-sleeve top (solid color) + super-wide trousers (wide slacks or wide jeans) + chunky shoes + small shoulder bag (underarm bag)
Fitted knit top (or cropped knit) + wide jeans + metal accessory (choose one: necklace or rings) + platform shoes
Cropped zip-up hoodie + wide cargo pants + platform shoes + baseball cap
Fitted base layer (turtleneck or tight T-shirt) + oversized leather jacket (loose outside, fitted inside) + wide jeans + thick leather belt
Baby tee (cropped T-shirt) + wide pleated slacks (floor-grazing drape) + platform loafers / chunky derbies + chain accessory
Oversized outerwear (with a fitted inner layer) + wide jeans + crossbody waist bag + platform shoes (the loose-outside/tight-inside contrast is key)
Fitted shirt (or cropped shirt) + wide jeans + pointed-toe / platform shoes + thin-frame glasses (more “Heisei” vibe)
Fitted tank top + wide trousers + lightweight open-front layer (cropped) + wired earphones as an accessory (worn around the neck) + platform shoes
Cropped jacket + graphic T-shirt (print not too large) + wide jeans + small metal accessory (waist chain or wallet chain) + platform sneakers
短版合身外套＋白T（或背心）＋寬牛仔褲（baggy）＋厚底球鞋＋腰鍊
貼身長袖上衣（素色）＋超寬褲（寬西褲或寬牛仔）＋chunky 鞋＋小肩包（腋下包）
合身針織（或短版針織）＋寬牛仔＋金屬配件（項鍊/戒指擇一）＋厚底鞋
短版連帽外套（zip hoodie）＋寬工裝褲（cargo）＋厚底鞋＋棒球帽
貼身內搭（高領或緊身T）＋寬鬆皮外套（上鬆內貼）＋寬牛仔＋粗皮帶
Baby Tee（短版T）＋寬西褲（打褶、落地感）＋厚底樂福鞋／chunky derby＋鏈條
Oversize 外套（但內搭貼身）＋寬牛仔＋腰包（斜挎）＋厚底鞋（外鬆內貼是關鍵）
合身襯衫（或短版襯衫）＋寬牛仔＋尖頭/厚底鞋＋細框眼鏡（更“平成”）
貼身背心＋寬褲＋開襟薄外套（短版）＋有線耳機當配件（掛脖）＋厚底鞋
短版外套＋印花T（圖案不要太大）＋寬牛仔＋金屬小物（腰鍊或錢包鏈）＋厚底球鞋
6) 黒モード / Kuro Mode（日式暗黑極簡）
6) 黒モード / Kuro Mode（日式暗黑極簡）
來龍去脈
日本黑系不是“穿黑就完了”，而是用「輪廓、垂墜、材質差」讓單色變得有層次、有氣場。
主要特徵
色彩壓低（黑、灰、深藍）
廓形：長外套、寬褲、層次疊穿
材質差：皮/羊毛/尼龍（同色不同料就很加分）
實用穿搭方式
長外套 + 全黑內搭 + 寬褲 + 靴（最不會錯）
黑西外 + 黑寬褲 + 皮鞋（材質要有差）
上針織/羊毛、下尼龍/皮（用材質做“黑的層次”）
對應日本品牌
Yohji Yamamoto
Comme des Garçons
ISSEY MIYAKE
HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE
kolor
sacai
In Japan, 黒モード (kuro mode) is basically “mode (high-fashion / designer-led) styling expressed through black”: monochrome outfits, strong silhouettes (drape/oversize or razor-slim), and an “anti-flashy” attitude. The term itself is street-language, but its roots are tied to a very specific turning point in Japanese fashion history.
1) The origin point: “Black Shock” in Paris → Japan gets a new fashion language (early 1980s)
1) The origin point: “Black Shock” in Paris → Japan gets a new fashion language (early 1980s)
The modern idea of Japan’s all-black “mode” is widely traced to the early-1980s Paris breakthroughs of Comme des Garçons (Rei Kawakubo) and Yohji Yamamoto. Their early Paris shows—dark palettes, non-bodycon silhouettes, distressed/deconstructed surfaces—were later described as the “黒の衝撃” (Black Shock) / “東からの衝撃” (Shock from the East).
Japanese commentary on Paris fashion history often groups them with Issey Miyake as the long-running Japanese “big names” (“御三家”), anchoring this as a foundational chapter of Japan’s global fashion identity.
Why this matters for “kuro mode”
Why this matters for “kuro mode”
In Japan, this moment helped fuse “mode” with the visual idea of black/monochrome, not just “trendiness.” Some Japanese fashion-industry explanations explicitly say the Black Shock became a key reason “mode-kei / mode style” is strongly associated with black and monotone looks in Japan.
2) Domestic spread: カラス族 and the street adoption (mid–late 1980s)
2) Domestic spread: カラス族 and the street adoption (mid–late 1980s)
As the look filtered back into Japan, all-black designer dressing became visible enough to earn a nickname: カラス族 (karasu-zoku, “crow tribe”)—people dressed head-to-toe in black, strongly associated with Comme des Garçons / Yohji / Y’s culture in that era.
At the same time, the DCブランド boom (designer/character brands) made “designer fashion” a broader social phenomenon in 1980s Japan, giving more runway-to-street pathways for mode aesthetics (including black-forward styling).
3) 1990s: diversification (black stays, silhouettes multiply)
3) 1990s: diversification (black stays, silhouettes multiply)
By the 1990s, “black mode” stops being a single uniform and becomes a palette + attitude that can sit on many shapes:
Draped/volume black (Yohji lineage)
Deconstruction/abstract black (Comme des Garçons lineage)
Minimal “intellectual” black (a broader Tokyo mode vibe)
Even when other trends rise, black mode remains a stable “serious fashion” option because it’s anchored to major Japanese houses that keep showing globally.
4) 2000s: the “slim black” shockwave (mode × rock)
4) 2000s: the “slim black” shockwave (mode × rock)
A second big silhouette shift hits Japan through Hedi Slimane’s Dior Homme era (2001–2007): compact tailoring, skinny jeans, monochrome rock mood. Japanese fashion commentary often credits Dior Homme with redefining men’s silhouettes and spreading slim black dressing widely.
You also see Japanese discussions noting how around 2000, influences like Gucci/Dior Homme helped push “black suit” styling into broader men’s fashion consciousness.
So in Japan, “kuro mode” effectively branches into two mainstream “readable” forms:
Black + volume/drape
Black + razor-slim rock tailoring
5) 2010s–2020s: archive culture + “kuro mode” as a modular aesthetic
5) 2010s–2020s: archive culture + “kuro mode” as a modular aesthetic
More recently, the rise of archive collecting/resale and constant online styling content reinforces kuro mode as a mix-and-match system (textures, layers, footwear) rather than a strict look. Fashion media continues to revisit the Black Shock era as a key reference point, keeping the story alive for new generations.
What’s uniquely “Japan” about kuro mode (the lasting DNA)
What’s uniquely “Japan” about kuro mode (the lasting DNA)
Black as design, not just color: surface, drape, asymmetry, and proportion carry the statement.
A strong house ecosystem: Yohji / Comme des Garçons (and Miyake’s broader impact) keep feeding the aesthetic every season.
Street naming + tribes: terms like カラス族 show how quickly Japan turned runway ideas into everyday identity.
Kuro mode menswear brands in Tokyo
Core “Kuro Mode” pillars (the big two aesthetics)
Core “Kuro Mode” pillars (the big two aesthetics)
Yohji Yamamoto POUR HOMME → Kuro mode / Avant-garde tailoring
Yohji Yamamoto POUR HOMME → Kuro mode / Avant-garde tailoring
Signature: draped silhouettes, long black coats, poetic tailoring, lots of movement (gabardine, wool), “adult” avant-garde rather than flashy.
Shirts: ~¥74,800–¥242,000 (≈ S$608–1,967)
Pants: ~¥73,700–¥215,600 (≈ S$599–1,753)
Coats: ~¥132,000–¥194,700 (≈ S$1,073–1,583)
Jackets (typical example): ~¥127,600 (≈ S$1,037)
COMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUS → Avant-garde / Eccentric black tailoring
COMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUS → Avant-garde / Eccentric black tailoring
Signature: conceptual suiting, warped proportions, “weird-but-smart” black pieces (often runway ideas made wearable).
T-shirts: ~¥14,300–¥24,200 (≈ S$116–197)
Shirts: ~¥49,500 (≈ S$402)
Trousers: ~¥59,400 (≈ S$483)
Jackets: commonly ~¥121,000–¥259,600 (≈ S$984–2,110)
“Kuro mode, but easier to wear” (still black, more daily)
“Kuro mode, but easier to wear” (still black, more daily)
Ground Y → Kuro mode (accessible) / Genderless drape
Ground Y → Kuro mode (accessible) / Genderless drape
Signature: Yohji DNA at a lower entry point—ponchos, mods coats, wide silhouettes, very “Tokyo black uniform.”
Shirts: ~¥82,500–¥94,600 (≈ S$671–769)
Pants: ~¥59,400–¥103,400 (≈ S$483–841)
Coats: ~¥132,000–¥154,000 (≈ S$1,073–1,252)
COMME des GARÇONS HOMME → Kuro-leaning smart casual / Workwear-meets-CDG
COMME des GARÇONS HOMME → Kuro-leaning smart casual / Workwear-meets-CDG
Signature: more “normal” shapes than Homme Plus, but with CDG fabric choices and quiet twists (great if you want black without looking costume-y).
Outerwear / heavier pieces often around ~¥74,800–¥140,800 (≈ S$608–1,145)
Dark avant / “underground Tokyo black” lane
Dark avant / “underground Tokyo black” lane
JULIUS → Dark avant / Tech-goth Kuro mode
JULIUS → Dark avant / Tech-goth Kuro mode
Signature: sleek black layers, sharp lines, long tops/outerwear; feels “future dystopia” but still tailored.
Outerwear example: ~¥154,000 (≈ S$1,252)
Pants examples: ~¥67,100–¥80,300 (≈ S$546–653)
The Viridi-anne → Minimal dark mode / Quiet avant
The Viridi-anne → Minimal dark mode / Quiet avant
Signature: muted blacks/charcoals, functional fabrics, restrained silhouettes—great if you want “dark” without loud design cues.
Trousers (typical): ~¥47,300–¥63,800 (≈ S$385–519)
sulvam → Deconstructed tailoring / Kuro mode with “broken” structure
sulvam → Deconstructed tailoring / Kuro mode with “broken” structure
Signature: twisted jackets, broken coats, asymmetry, punky tailoring energy but still fashion-forward.
Coats: ~¥132,000–¥154,000 (≈ S$1,073–1,252)
Jackets: often ~¥84,700–¥132,000 (≈ S$689–1,073)
(Higher-end pieces exist too—e.g., leather coat ~¥286,000 ≈ S$2,325)
Slim black / “rock mode” that overlaps with Kuro Mode
Slim black / “rock mode” that overlaps with Kuro Mode
LAD MUSICIAN → Slim black / Rock-tailoring Kuro mode
LAD MUSICIAN → Slim black / Rock-tailoring Kuro mode
Signature: sharp, slim-to-flared tailoring, rock/romantic mood, often black with subtle pattern (roses, etc.).
Jackets: ~¥60,500–¥88,000 (≈ S$492–715)
Slacks: commonly ~¥30,800–¥50,600 (≈ S$250–411)
Optional “CDG family” add-on (more hybrid, often black available)
Optional “CDG family” add-on (more hybrid, often black available)
Junya Watanabe MAN → Hybrid designer / Experimental outerwear (often black options)
Junya Watanabe MAN → Hybrid designer / Experimental outerwear (often black options)
Signature: collabs + engineered coats/jackets, very “designed” pieces; can lean kuro when you pick black colorways.
Outerwear examples shown around ~¥165,000–¥385,000 (≈ S$1,341–3,130)
「日式暗黑極簡」10 種搭配方式
「日式暗黑極簡」10 種搭配方式
Long overcoat (black) + thin black turtleneck knit + black wide-leg trousers + black leather boots (the classic)
Black blazer (soft shoulders, slightly roomy) + black T-shirt + black pleated wide-leg trousers + black derby shoes
Long trench coat (black, matte) + black knit + black straight wide-leg trousers + boots (use the coat length for presence)
Leather jacket (black, slight sheen) + black wool wide-leg trousers (matte) + black boots (matte vs. shine contrast)
Black shirt (drapey fabric) + black wide-leg trousers (more structured) + black leather shoes (texture contrast top vs. bottom)
Black knit cardigan + black tank/top as a base layer + black wide-leg trousers + black boots (layered, but with clean lines)
Collarless black jacket (or stand-collar jacket) + black turtleneck + black wide-leg trousers + black leather shoes (more “Japanese” vibe)
Black short jacket (boxy, slightly cropped) + extra-long inner layer (intentionally showing) + black wide-leg trousers + boots (proportion play)
Black pullover top (hoodie or mock-neck sweatshirt—choose a structured one) + black wide trousers with a wool dress-trouser feel + black leather shoes (casual, but still dark)
Black outer jacket (nylon/technical, matte) + black knit + black wide wool trousers + black boots (mixing technical and tailoring fabrics)
長版大衣（黑）＋黑高領薄針織＋黑寬褲＋黑皮靴（最經典）
黑西裝外套（軟肩、略寬）＋黑T＋黑打褶寬褲＋黑德比鞋
長版風衣（黑、霧面）＋黑針織＋黑直筒寬褲＋靴（用衣長做氣場）
皮外套（黑、微光澤）＋黑羊毛寬褲（霧面）＋黑靴（霧亮對比）
黑襯衫（垂墜料）＋黑寬褲（更挺）＋黑皮鞋（上下材質反差）
黑針織開襟＋黑背心/內搭＋黑寬褲＋黑靴（疊穿但線條乾淨）
無領黑外套（或立領外套）＋黑高領＋黑寬褲＋黑皮鞋（更「日本感」）
黑短外套（boxy、略短）＋長下擺內搭（刻意露出）＋黑寬褲＋靴（比例變化）
黑套頭上衣（hoodie 或高領衛衣、選挺版）＋黑羊毛西褲感寬褲＋黑皮鞋（休閒但仍暗黑）
黑外套（尼龍/機能、霧面）＋黑針織＋黑寬褲（羊毛）＋黑靴（機能×正裝材質混搭）
7) エキセントリックスタンダード / Eccentric Standard（經典定番「現代改造」）
7) エキセントリックスタンダード / Eccentric Standard（經典定番「現代改造」）
來龍去脈
把「人人都有的定番」做出“微偏心”的新鮮感：不靠花俏，而是動 衣長、量感、材質、細節，讓人一眼覺得「熟悉但不老」。
主要特徵
單品是定番：風衣、MA-1、軍裝外套、anorak、白襯衫、白T、針織、打褶褲/西褲等
但比例不定番：更短/更長（衣長）、更寬/更蓬（量感）、褲管更闊或褶更深（褲型份量）
材質常現代化：更輕薄、抗皺、快乾、微光澤、機能布料，或更有垂墜感
整體仍然乾淨克制：顏色多為黑/白/灰/海軍藍/卡其；靠材質差與輪廓差取勝，不靠花俏圖案
最重要的“規則”：一次只讓一個地方特別（例如褲子很寬，上衣就乾淨；外套很機能，內搭就素）
實用穿搭方式
定番外套（MA-1/風衣）+ 寬褲（量感）+ 乾淨鞋
全身基本色，但只改「一個比例」（上衣衣長或褲寬擇一）
基本款上衣 + 意外材質下身（尼龍、光澤、特殊織紋）
對應日本品牌
HYKE
nonnative
N.HOOLYWOOD
ATON
MARKAWARE
In Japan, エキセントリックスタンダード (Eccentric Standard) is less a “subculture” (like Harajuku tribes) and more a trend concept used by fashion media/forecasters to describe a very Japanese idea:
Start with everyday standards (white shirts, tees, crewnecks, denim, chinos, trench coats, tailored jackets)… then make them feel new through a controlled twist—proportion, materials, construction, or styling—without becoming full-on avant-garde.
What it means in practice
What it means in practice
Industry descriptions frame it as:
Standard as the anchor (recognizable basics)
Eccentricity as the “one twist”: unbalanced silhouettes, unexpected fabric choices, unusual combinations/layering, or detail changes that transform “normal clothes” into something fresh.
Often: playfulness in details while keeping the overall look elegant/controlled.
Origins in Japan: why this idea fits the Japanese fashion ecosystem
Origins in Japan: why this idea fits the Japanese fashion ecosystem
Japan has a long-running fashion culture of mastering “the standard” and then subtly breaking it (patternmaking, fabric obsession, and “quiet” design intelligence). Eccentric Standard sits right between:
Mode/avant-garde thinking (Japan is famous for experimental silhouettes and deconstruction)
and daily-wear practicality (Tokyo “uniform” dressing, select-shop basics, repeatable outfit formulas)
So rather than shouting, it whispers: “This is a normal item… but something is off (in a good way).”
Development: how it became a named, mainstream trend
Development: how it became a named, mainstream trend
1) Foundations: “standard items as a canvas”
1) Foundations: “standard items as a canvas”
Japanese menswear and select-shop culture trained consumers to value timeless pieces (shirts, trench coats, tailored jackets, denim). That creates the perfect base for “standard + twist.”
2) 2000s–2010s: hybridization becomes desirable
2) 2000s–2010s: hybridization becomes desirable
Design approaches that remix classics (through docking, layering logic, construction tricks) become a recognizable “Tokyo contemporary” language—still wearable, but clearly designed.
3) Late 2010s–2020s: minimal/quiet dominates → demand for controlled novelty
3) Late 2010s–2020s: minimal/quiet dominates → demand for controlled novelty
As minimal and “quiet luxury” aesthetics spread, brands needed a way to add interest without going loud. The solution: micro-eccentricity—details, volume, styling, fabric contrast.
4) 2023–2025: the term gets formalized in trend reporting
4) 2023–2025: the term gets formalized in trend reporting
Japanese trade/fashion media explicitly labels Eccentric Standard as a major seasonal direction, repeatedly pointing to:
key basics: white shirts, tank tops, tees, crewneck sweaters, cardigans
outerwear: tailored jackets, trench coats
bottoms: denim, chinos
…and the “twist” methods (form imbalance, surprising materials, unexpected pairing, styling emphasis).
Fashion coverage also illustrates it via runway examples like Prada / sacai evolving military staples and brands like kolor / doublet using college classics as a base but making them odd/new through design moves.
How to recognize it on the street in Tokyo
How to recognize it on the street in Tokyo
Look for outfits that read “normal” at 3 meters, but up close you notice:
a trench/blazer with a strange collar, volume, or fabric behavior
a white shirt that’s asymmetrical, double-layered, or has mismatched panels
“basic” chinos/denim that are twisted, ballooned, panelled, or unusually pleated
styling that’s intentionally “slightly wrong” (but still clean)
If you want, tell me which direction you like more:
(A) clean & subtle (one small twist), or
(B) more playful/hybrid (obvious design tricks)
…and I’ll recommend the best Tokyo brands/shops that match that exact eccentric-standard lane.
Eccentric Standard menswear brands in Tokyo
sacai — Eccentric Standard (hybrid elevated casual)
sacai — Eccentric Standard (hybrid elevated casual)
Master of “splice & merge” design: MA-1 details on tailoring, knit fused to shirts, and outerwear that looks familiar but constructed in surprising layers.
Typical retail:
Tees: ¥37,400–¥66,000 (≈S$304–S$537)
Shirts: commonly around ¥41,800–¥82,500 (≈S$340–S$672)
Outerwear: around ¥198,000–¥275,000 (≈S$1,612–S$2,238), with statement leather pieces up to ¥396,000 (≈S$3,223)
kolor — Eccentric Standard (playful contemporary)
kolor — Eccentric Standard (playful contemporary)
Feels “proper” (great pattern-cutting) but always slightly odd—in a good way: color-blocking, fabric switching, and witty construction details.
Typical retail:
Tees: ¥22,000 (≈S$179)
kolor BEACON — Eccentric Standard (sporty/utility take)
kolor BEACON — Eccentric Standard (sporty/utility take)
A more functional, street-leaning lane of kolor—still quirky in cut and detail, but easier to wear day-to-day.
Typical retail:
Pants: ¥63,800 (≈S$519)
Tops: ¥94,600 (≈S$770)
Outer: ¥110,000 (≈S$895)
N.HOOLYWOOD (COMPILE / TPES etc.) — Eccentric Standard (clean, urban experimental)
N.HOOLYWOOD (COMPILE / TPES etc.) — Eccentric Standard (clean, urban experimental)
“Standard” wardrobe shapes (tees, blousons, slacks) with quiet tweaks—precision fit, military/testing references, and subtle graphics/labels.
Typical retail:
Tees (example line): ¥11,000 (≈S$90)
Jackets (example): ¥69,300 (≈S$564)
TOGA VIRILIS — Eccentric Standard (hardware + sharp oddness)
TOGA VIRILIS — Eccentric Standard (hardware + sharp oddness)
Classic silhouettes with TOGA’s signature edge: metal hardware, slightly warped western/rock cues, and unexpected sporty pieces.
Typical retail:
Knit/pullovers: ¥53,900 (≈S$439)
Track jacket (example): ¥70,400 (≈S$573)
doublet — Eccentric Standard (playful conceptwear you can still wear)
doublet — Eccentric Standard (playful conceptwear you can still wear)
Known for humorous concepts made into real clothing—often “normal items” with surreal ideas (peelable motifs, odd tailoring finishes).
Typical retail (examples):
Tailored jackets: ¥140,800–¥154,000 (≈S$1,146–S$1,254)
Trousers: ¥70,400–¥97,900 (≈S$573–S$797)
Hoodies: ¥94,600 (≈S$770)
FACETASM — Eccentric Standard (layering + street collage)
FACETASM — Eccentric Standard (layering + street collage)
Strong on reworked street silhouettes, layered construction, and “remixed” garments that feel like curated chaos (but intentional).
Typical retail (examples from JP stockists):
Hoodies around ¥46,200 (≈S$376) and outerwear pieces that can run to ¥165,000 (≈S$1,343)
White Mountaineering “BLK” — Eccentric Standard (black technical minimal)
White Mountaineering “BLK” — Eccentric Standard (black technical minimal)
All-black concept (“BLACK LAYER KNOWLEDGE”)—minimal look, but with high-spec fabrics and sharp pattern-making.
Typical retail:
Sweats/pullovers: ¥39,600 (≈S$322)
Track jacket: ¥55,000 (≈S$448)
Jackets: ¥83,600 (≈S$681)
GORE-TEX parka: ¥159,500 (≈S$1,298)
Brand concept note
UNDERCOVER — Eccentric Standard (dark romance / punk-meets-classic)
UNDERCOVER — Eccentric Standard (dark romance / punk-meets-classic)
One of Japan’s most influential “wearable weird” labels—often a classic base (blouson, coat) with graphic, mood, or subculture tension.
Typical retail (JP marketplace examples):
Blouson around ¥44,000 (≈S$358) and down/coat pieces around ¥99,000 (≈S$806)
Junya Watanabe MAN — Eccentric Standard (tailoring experiments)
Junya Watanabe MAN — Eccentric Standard (tailoring experiments)
Tailoring-driven experimentation: classic menswear foundations with technical fabrics, modular construction, and clever collaborations.
Typical retail (examples in Japan):
Tops around ¥53,900 (≈S$439) and items around ¥46,200 (≈S$376)
「經典定番現代改造 」10 種搭配方式
「經典定番現代改造 」10 種搭配方式
Cropped MA-1 (matte nylon) + white T-shirt + deep-pleat wide slacks + leather shoes (or minimalist sneakers)
Long-hem white shirt (extra-long tail) + cropped workwear jacket + wide trousers + loafers
Trench coat (technical fabric / slight sheen) + thin grey knit + pleated wide trousers + clean sneakers
Classic tailored blazer (soft shoulders, slightly roomy) + white T-shirt + ultra-wide trousers (floor-grazing drape) + platform loafers (low-key style)
Oxford shirt (oversized collar / shifted placket detail) + wide khaki trousers + leather shoes + simple tote bag
Pullover anorak (lightweight, technical) + plain T-shirt + wide trousers (nylon or wool) + trail shoes (keep the overall color palette clean)
Knit sweater vest (campus vibe) + blue shirt + wide pleated trousers + black loafers + white socks (just a touch of “school”)
Cropped boxy jacket + extra-long inner layer (showing at the hem) + straight wide-leg trousers + minimalist sneakers
Basic black T-shirt + wide trousers in an unexpected material (slightly glossy nylon / special weave) + leather shoes (the material contrast is the highlight)
Staple military jacket (M-65 style) in a more voluminous cut + plain T-shirt + clean wide trousers + leather shoes
短版 MA-1（霧面尼龍）＋白T＋深褶寬西褲＋皮鞋（或極簡球鞋）
長下擺白襯衫（尾擺更長）＋短版工裝外套＋寬褲＋樂福鞋
風衣（機能布料／微光澤）＋灰薄針織＋打褶寬褲＋乾淨球鞋
傳統西裝外套（軟肩、略寬）＋白T＋超寬褲（落地感）＋厚底樂福鞋（低調款）
牛津襯衫（加大領／門襟位移）＋卡其寬褲＋皮鞋＋簡單托特
套頭 anorak（輕薄、機能）＋素T＋寬褲（尼龍或羊毛）＋越野鞋（但整體配色要乾淨）
針織背心（校園感）＋藍襯衫＋寬打褶褲＋黑樂福鞋＋白襪（只用一點“school”）
短版夾克（boxy）＋超長下擺內搭（露出）＋直筒寬褲＋極簡球鞋
基本黑T＋意外材質寬褲（微光澤尼龍／特殊織紋）＋皮鞋（材質差就是亮點）
定番軍裝外套（M-65 類）但選「加量感」版型＋素T＋乾淨寬褲＋皮鞋
8) 上質カジュアル / Elevated Casual（質感派精緻日常）
8) 上質カジュアル / Elevated Casual（質感派精緻日常）
來龍去脈
這派在日本很「常用、常穿」：休閒輪廓，但用面料、剪裁、乾淨度做出成熟感。你也可以把它理解成「休閒版的端正」。
主要特徵
色盤克制（米、灰、海軍藍、黑）
版型舒服但不邋遢（肩線/褲長要乾淨）
材質加分（針織、挺棉、羊毛混紡、手感）
實用穿搭方式
上質針織 + 打褶寬褲/羊毛褲 + 皮鞋或乾淨球鞋
素色衛衣（要挺）+ 西褲感寬褲 + 樂福鞋
同色系穿搭（米/灰/海軍藍）用材質差做層次
對應日本品牌
YAECA
BATONER
crepuscule
A.PRESSE
SETINN
In Japan, 上質カジュアル (jōshitsu casual) is a consumer + retail phrase that means “casual clothes, but upgraded by materials, cut, and finish”—so you look relaxed, not sloppy. You’ll often see it described literally as “casual wear for adults / high-quality casual wear” in Japanese fashion retail/editorial.
Below is how it formed and evolved in Japan, and why it became such a stable “default” style.
Where it comes from in Japan
Where it comes from in Japan
1) 1970s–80s: Select shops teach “casual can be tasteful”
1) 1970s–80s: Select shops teach “casual can be tasteful”
Tokyo’s select-shop culture is a big foundation for elevated casual: shops didn’t just sell clothes—they curated a lifestyle and taught coordination, mixing imported casual with “adult taste.”
A landmark is BEAMS, founded in 1976 in Harajuku as an “American life shop,” which helped normalize buying casual as style, not just utility.
2) Late 1980s–1990s: The “good basics” mindset becomes mainstream
2) Late 1980s–1990s: The “good basics” mindset becomes mainstream
UNITED ARROWS (founded 1989) is part of the second wave of major select shops that systematized “adult casual” through curation, private labels, and wardrobe-building.
By the 1990s, select shops became widely known and culturally influential—meaning more people learned to dress in versatile, higher-quality basics rather than loud trend pieces.
3) 2000s: “Adult casual” media makes it a repeatable template
3) 2000s: “Adult casual” media makes it a repeatable template
Men’s lifestyle media helped formalize the vibe: OCEANS launched in 2006, explicitly targeting adult men and lifestyle-driven casual. That era popularized “simple but premium” staples (good tees, denim, knits, easy jackets) as the grown-up solution.
4) Mid-2000s onward: Workwear rules loosen → demand for polished casual rises
4) Mid-2000s onward: Workwear rules loosen → demand for polished casual rises
Japan’s Cool Biz campaign began in 2005 to reduce energy use, accelerating “no tie / lighter office dressing” norms.
As office dress codes became less suit-centric, the sweet spot grew: clothing that’s comfortable like casual but credible in public/office contexts.
5) 2010s–2020s: Casualization + “quality and longevity” become the message
5) 2010s–2020s: Casualization + “quality and longevity” become the message
Recent surveys and reporting show the long-term shift toward office casual and increased acceptance of items like jeans in some workplaces—exactly the environment where elevated casual thrives.
At the same time, Japanese trade coverage notes rising emphasis on “quality / luxury feel” and consumers wanting pieces they can wear longer (cost pressures + sustainability awareness), which aligns directly with “上質” as a value.
What makes “Elevated Casual” feel specifically Japanese
What makes “Elevated Casual” feel specifically Japanese
Fabric literacy: Japan strongly values textiles and finishing (the “you can see/feel the quality” culture), so “elevated” is often about material and hand-feel, not logos.
Select-shop curation: A lot of “Japanese elevated casual” is basically curated basics + tasteful mixing, a habit built by select shops since the 1970s–90s.
TPO realism: It’s designed for real Tokyo life—train commutes, small apartments, mixed occasions—so pieces are chosen to be repeatable and versatile.
The style DNA (how to recognize it)
The style DNA (how to recognize it)
Looks casual at first glance, but:
better fabric (dense cotton, fine wool, cashmere blends, good synthetics)
intentional silhouette (often relaxed, but clean)
restrained palette (navy/gray/black/beige/white)
minimal branding
footwear/accessories that “finish” the look
Elevated casual menswear brands in Tokyo
“Tokyo refined basics” elevated casual
“Tokyo refined basics” elevated casual
AURALEE — ultra-nice fabrics + calm silhouettes (looks simple, feels expensive)
Tee: ¥9,900 (≈ S$80)
Signature shirt (Washed Finx): ¥39,600 (≈ S$322)
COMOLI — relaxed “Japanese grown-up” basics (soft structure, easy drape)
S/S tee (official): ¥17,600 (≈ S$143)
Shirts/pants often sit around: ¥52,800 shirts (≈ S$429), ¥63,800 pants (≈ S$518)
Graphpaper — “city uniform” proportions (oversized but clean, great shirts/pants)
Broad shirts: ¥26,400–¥28,600 (≈ S$215–S$232)
Slacks example: ¥41,800 (≈ S$340)
Tech-ish coats/pants can run: coat ¥74,800 (≈ S$608), pants ¥30,800 (≈ S$250)
MARKAWARE — minimalist, “quiet luxury” basics with a sustainability angle; very wearable
Shirts commonly: ¥33,000–¥49,500 (≈ S$268–S$402)
ATON — elevated essentials with excellent jersey and “adult” fits
Tees commonly: ¥17,600–¥26,400 (≈ S$143–S$215)
Some tees start at: ¥13,200 (≈ S$107)
YAECA — quiet, slightly vintage-leaning basics (great shirts; understated)
Shirts commonly: ¥33,000–¥46,200 (≈ S$268–S$375)
blurhms ROOTSTOCK — premium “broken-in” casual (great tees/sweats/denim)
Tees often: ¥13,200–¥15,950 (≈ S$107–S$130)
Denim pants example: ¥33,000 (≈ S$268)
BATONER — knit specialist (perfect for elevated casual layering)
Signature knit crew: ¥28,000 (≈ S$228)
Driver knits often: ¥37,400 (≈ S$304)
“Quiet flex / modern heritage” elevated casual
“Quiet flex / modern heritage” elevated casual
A.PRESSE — vintage-inspired but very “clean”; expensive fabrics + finishing (quiet flex)
Shirts commonly: ¥87,200–¥124,630 (≈ S$709–S$1,013)
Denim pants example: ¥74,800 (≈ S$608); leather jackets can reach ¥462,000 (≈ S$3,755)
ssstein — minimal contemporary with better materials; easy “polished casual” silhouettes
Trousers often: ¥47,300–¥60,500 (≈ S$384–S$492)
“Tech elevated casual” (office-to-travel friendly)
“Tech elevated casual” (office-to-travel friendly)
TEATORA — “work/travel uniform” (packable, wrinkle-friendly, clean silhouettes)
Wallet Pants line commonly: ¥44,000 (≈ S$358)
nanamica — adult city-casual with subtle outdoor DNA (clean chinos, good fabrics)
Chino pants commonly: ¥26,400–¥30,800 (≈ S$215–S$250)
Select-shop “adult elevated casual” house taste (easy to buy in Tokyo)
Select-shop “adult elevated casual” house taste (easy to buy in Tokyo)
UNITED ARROWS (UA) / green label relaxing / BEAUTY&YOUTH — smart-to-elevated casual, dependable staples
Tailored jackets commonly: ¥20,691–¥55,990 (≈ S$168–S$455)
Suits can be around: ¥94,600 (≈ S$769)
TOMORROWLAND (incl. Edition/CABaN inside their ecosystem) — more “polished” elevated casual
Tailored jackets commonly: ~¥55,000 up to ¥176,000 (≈ S$447–S$1,430)
SHIPS — classic clean casual; good for “smart casual → elevated casual” bridge
Tailored jackets commonly around ¥38,500 (≈ S$313) and up depending on fabric/line
「質感派精緻日常」10種搭配方式
「質感派精緻日常」10種搭配方式
Merino crewneck knit (beige/grey) + pleated wide-leg trousers (wool or crisp cotton) + loafers
Knit polo (deep navy/black) + straight-leg wool trousers + minimalist leather shoes
Heavyweight white T-shirt (or a plain solid-color tee) + wide trousers with a wool-trouser feel + clean white sneakers + belt
Structured grey sweatshirt + dark pleated trousers + loafers (or minimalist sneakers)
Linen shirt (beige/light blue) + off-white wide-leg trousers (linen or crisp cotton) + suede loafers
Lightweight knit cardigan + white T-shirt + grey/khaki wide-leg trousers + leather shoes (restrained colors; let the materials shine)
Low-saturation shirt jacket (shacket) + plain T-shirt + straight wide-leg trousers + clean sneakers
Clean, simple blazer (soft shoulders) + knit T-shirt / lightweight knit + pleated trousers + loafers (mature, but not stiff)
Monochrome set idea: all beige (knit/shirt + wide trousers) + create depth through contrasting textures + minimalist shoes
Light trench / lightweight outerwear (deep navy/grey) + plain knit + straight-leg trousers + leather shoes (effortless but very polished)
美麗諾圓領針織（米/灰）＋打褶寬褲（羊毛或挺棉）＋樂福鞋
針織Polo（深藍/黑）＋直筒羊毛褲＋極簡皮鞋
厚磅白T（或素色T）＋羊毛西褲感寬褲＋乾淨白球鞋＋皮帶
灰色挺版衛衣＋深色打褶褲＋樂福鞋（或極簡球鞋）
亞麻襯衫（米/淺藍）＋米白寬褲（亞麻/挺棉）＋麂皮樂福鞋
薄針織開襟＋白T＋灰/卡其寬褲＋皮鞋（顏色克制、材質取勝）
低飽和襯衫外套（shacket）＋素T＋直筒寬褲＋乾淨球鞋
簡潔Blazer（軟肩）＋針織T／薄針織＋打褶褲＋樂福鞋（成熟但不硬）
同色系套裝思路：全身米色（針織/襯衫＋寬褲）＋用材質差做層次＋極簡鞋
薄風衣/輕外套（深藍/灰）＋素色針織＋直筒褲＋皮鞋（很省力但很端正）
9) 古着ミックス / Vintage Mix（古著混搭）
9) 古着ミックス / Vintage Mix（古著混搭）
來龍去脈
東京男裝一直有「用古著做辨識度」的文化底層：主流穿搭再乾淨，也常用一件古著讓整套“有故事”。
主要特徵
只要 1 件古著當主角就夠（外套/丹寧/皮衣/針織）
其餘用乾淨基本款壓住，避免“全套戲服”
顏色可更活一點，但要控制整體色盤
實用穿搭方式
古著外套 + 白T + 直筒牛仔 + 乾淨鞋
古著針織 + 卡其寬褲 + 皮鞋/樂福鞋
古著軍裝 + 現代剪裁寬褲（新舊對比最好看）
對應日本品牌（很適合做古著/復古混搭）
KAPITAL
Needles
Porter Classic
Hender Scheme
orSlow
In Japan, 古着ミックス usually means styling that intentionally combines at least one secondhand/vintage piece (古着) with new items—so you get the “history/character” of old clothing without looking like you’re wearing a full costume from one era. A lot of Japanese editors describe it as something that became so normal that younger shoppers treat it as the default way to dress.
Origins and development in Japan
Origins and development in Japan
1) Late 1970s–1980s: the “idea” of styling with used clothes takes root
1) Late 1970s–1980s: the “idea” of styling with used clothes takes root
A commonly cited early influence is the book “Cheap Chic” (translated into Japanese in 1977), which popularized the mindset that style isn’t only for the wealthy and that you can build a personal look by mixing in accessible pieces like military/ethnic garments. This lines up with Japan’s early select-shop culture, where curators started placing used/vintage items alongside imported American goods—an early template for “mixing.”
2) Late 1980s → early 1990s: street logic + strong yen makes vintage practical
2) Late 1980s → early 1990s: street logic + strong yen makes vintage practical
As the late-bubble/DC era aesthetics shifted and youth style leaned more street/Americana, “furugi” entered as a realistic solution for kids without much money. Industry voices also point to the macro tailwind: a strong yen made importing used clothing cheaper, so vintage became more available through shops.
3) 1990s: “vintage boom” turns mixing into a mainstream youth style
3) 1990s: “vintage boom” turns mixing into a mainstream youth style
Many accounts place the “it really became a thing” moment around the early 90s.
In the 1990s, men’s magazine Boon is repeatedly credited with taking vintage from insider taste to mass trend, helping fuel a nationwide “vintage furugi boom.”
This is also when Tokyo’s secondhand hubs (e.g., Koenji) accelerated as shop districts, helped by the boom and by practical factors like affordable rents and small, easy-to-open spaces.
4) 2000s: “mix” becomes the rule (not the exception)
4) 2000s: “mix” becomes the rule (not the exception)
By the 2000s, the point wasn’t “wear vintage head-to-toe,” but rather use vintage as a spice—a single denim, military, sweatshirt, graphic tee, etc.—balanced with cleaner new basics. In Japanese editorial terms, this is where “古着 × 新品” becomes a stable styling grammar rather than a trend.
5) 2010s: Instagram + street snaps industrialize the look
5) 2010s: Instagram + street snaps industrialize the look
Fashionsnap notes how smartphone/SNS adoption (with Instagram’s rise) made it easy to see countless outfits quickly, and how niche media accounts helped spread “how to style” secondhand looks at scale (e.g., the “古着女子” phenomenon in the late 2010s).
6) 2020s: secondhand goes fully mainstream + “vintage” expands
6) 2020s: secondhand goes fully mainstream + “vintage” expands
In the 2020s, the boom becomes visibly infrastructure-level: chain stores open large branches in prime areas, vintage events draw long lines, and the definition of what counts as “vintage-worthy” broadens (examples cited include “Old Gap” and even anime tees becoming prized categories).
At the same time, sustainability awareness becomes a supportive narrative: Japan’s Environment Ministry survey summary reports ~6 in 10 respondents being interested in sustainable fashion or taking actions, which naturally legitimizes reuse/secondhand in the public conversation.
Why Japan’s “Vintage Mix” feels distinct
Why Japan’s “Vintage Mix” feels distinct
Balance over costume: Japanese styling often aims for “natural” cohesion—vintage provides texture/story, while new items keep the silhouette modern and clean.
Magazine/curation culture: Vintage mix grew through select shops + magazines that taught people what to look for (denim, military, sweats) and how to combine it.
Category evolution: What gets mixed changes by era—early focus on denim/military/sweats, then broader “new vintage / next vintage” categories in the 2020s.
Vintage mix style menswear brands in Tokyo
(A) Japanese brands that mix extremely well with vintage
(A) Japanese brands that mix extremely well with vintage
BEAMS PLUS (City-boy / Ivy-Americana / Vintage-inspired smart casual)
Why it works for vintage mix: “clean vintage”—classic Ivy fits, details like old American shirts/jackets, but easy to wear today.
Typical price: Oxford BD shirt ¥14,300 (≈ S$117).
Needles (NEPENTHES) (Vintage mix / Sports-street / Casual eccentric)
Why it works: retro athletic silhouettes + strong color/pattern options; great when you anchor with one vintage piece (tee/denim) and let Needles do the “Tokyo styling.”
Typical price: Track Pant ¥23,100 (≈ S$188).
orSlow (Amekaji / Heritage denim / Vintage reproduction)
Why it works: slow, authentic fades and classic denim fits that look “found” even when new—perfect base layer for any vintage top/jacket.
Typical price: 107 Ivy Fit selvedge jeans ¥29,700 (≈ S$242).
Nigel Cabourn Japan (Workwear / military heritage / elevated vintage)
Why it works: historically grounded military/workwear pieces that feel like true vintage, but with modern durability and patterning.
Typical price: Basic Chino Pant ¥29,700 (≈ S$242).
KAPTAIN SUNSHINE (Elevated heritage / grown-up vintage mix)
Why it works: luxe fabrics + roomy, relaxed proportions—pairs beautifully with vintage denim, old band tees, or military outerwear.
Typical price: Work Shirt ¥44,000 (≈ S$359); Military Shirt Jacket ¥52,800 (≈ S$431).
The Real McCoy’s (Repro Americana / “museum-grade” basics)
Why it works: the “new but indistinguishable from vintage” lane—especially tees/sweats/jackets that make your whole outfit feel authentic.
Typical price: Loop-wheel tee (L/S) ¥11,000 (≈ S$90).
Buzz Rickson’s (Military repro / vintage outerwear specialist)
Why it works: your “one hero jacket” brand—throw it over simple vintage denim + plain tee and you’re done.
Typical price: N-1 Deck Jacket ¥86,900 (≈ S$709).
Porter Classic (Soft tailoring / artsy heritage / vintage-friendly comfort)
Why it works: looks “old” in the best way—relaxed Japanese craft vibe; great with vintage denim, loafers, scarves.
Typical price: Roll Up Flannel/Gingham shirt around ¥49,500 (≈ S$404).
WAREHOUSE & CO. (Repro basics / denim-head essentials)
Why it works: cheap-ish “period correct” basics that make your actual vintage pieces look more intentional (especially tees).
Typical price: Lot 4601 tee ¥6,200 (≈ S$51).
FULLCOUNT (Premium denim / Amekaji-vintage core)
Why it works: clean but deep denim culture; a very “Tokyo vintage mix” backbone brand (especially jeans + denim jackets).
Typical price: 1108 Slim Straight denim ¥43,500 (≈ S$355).
REMI RELIEF (Vintage-washed casual / “already broken-in” new clothes)
Why it works: tees/sweats/jackets often come with sun-faded, lived-in finishing—easy way to get the vintage feel without hunting.
Typical price examples: tee ~¥10,780 (≈ S$88); denim jacket ¥32,780 (≈ S$267); denim pants ¥28,380 (≈ S$231).
(B) Where to buy the “古着” half in Tokyo (vintage/secondhand retailers)
(B) Where to buy the “古着” half in Tokyo (vintage/secondhand retailers)
These aren’t “brands” in the designer sense, but for Vintage Mix style in Tokyo, they function like essential labels because their curation + pricing lane shapes your look.
KINJI (cheap-to-mid thrifting; trend/vintage blend)
Typical price: ~¥2,000–¥5,000 per item (≈ S$16–S$41) per JapanTravel’s Tokyo thrifting guide.
JAM (Vintage Clothing Store JAM) (big selection; “new-era vintage” curation)
Typical starting point: one Tokyo visit write-up notes ~¥5,000+ (≈ S$41+) as a feel for pricing.
2nd STREET (huge chain; ranges from cheap basics to pricey finds)
Example of the high end: vintage Levi’s listing shown at ¥109,890 (≈ S$896)—rare stuff can climb.
RAGTAG (designer-heavy secondhand; curated, cleaner condition)
Price snapshots from their online shop: shirts around ¥13,680 (≈ S$112); jeans around ¥11,510 (≈ S$94); jackets can be ~¥90,932 (≈ S$742) depending on brand.
Kindal (カインドオル) (designer & street secondhand; big inventory)
Example prices shown on their listings: tees around ¥6,710 (≈ S$55); outerwear can be ~¥40,260 (≈ S$328) and up.
BerBerJin (Harajuku “collector” vintage; museum-level American vintage)
This is the “serious money” lane: their webstore shows tees like ¥79,800–¥98,000 (≈ S$651–S$799) and jackets like ¥598,000 (≈ S$4,877) for rare pieces.
Easy “Vintage Mix” formulas using the brands above
Easy “Vintage Mix” formulas using the brands above
Clean vintage mix (easy): BEAMS PLUS shirt + orSlow/Fullcount denim + one vintage belt/hat.
Tokyo vintage mix (more fashion): vintage tee + Needles track pants + clean leather shoes.
Heritage heavy: Buzz Rickson’s / Real McCoy’s jacket + Warehouse tee + vintage denim.
「古著混搭 」10 種搭配方式
「古著混搭 」10 種搭配方式
Vintage denim jacket (faded) + white T-shirt + dark straight-leg jeans (new) + clean sneakers
Vintage leather jacket (brown/black, with wear marks) + plain grey T-shirt + black wide-leg trousers (new) + derby shoes
Vintage military jacket (M-65 / jungle jacket) + white shirt (new, crisp) + wide khaki trousers + loafers
Vintage college sweatshirt (graphics not too busy) + white shirt (hem slightly showing) + dark navy wide-leg trousers + canvas sneakers
Vintage flannel plaid shirt + plain base layer (white/grey) + black straight-leg trousers (new) + work boots (clean/minimal)
Vintage knit sweater (textured knit or small pattern) + white T-shirt (collar slightly showing) + khaki/grey pleated trousers + leather shoes
Vintage hunting jacket / Harrington jacket + striped long-sleeve top (new) + white trousers (new) + boat shoes / loafers
Vintage work pants (worn, faded) + clean knit (new, solid color) + simple jacket (new) + sneakers
Use only one vintage tailoring piece: vintage blazer (old) + white T-shirt + jeans (new, no distressing) + leather shoes
Vintage jeans (faded, straight-leg) + clean Oxford shirt (new) + light jacket (new, solid color) + loafers
古著牛仔外套（褪色）＋白T＋深色直筒牛仔（新）＋乾淨球鞋
古著皮衣（棕／黑、有使用痕）＋灰素T＋黑寬褲（新）＋德比鞋
古著軍外套（M-65/叢林外套）＋白襯衫（新、乾淨）＋卡其寬褲＋樂福鞋
古著大學衛衣（字樣不要太滿）＋白襯衫下擺微露＋深藍寬褲＋帆布鞋
古著法蘭絨格紋襯衫＋素色內搭（白/灰）＋黑直筒褲（新）＋工裝靴（乾淨）
古著針織毛衣（有織紋或小圖案）＋白T領口微露＋卡其/灰打褶褲＋皮鞋
古著獵裝/哈靈頓外套＋條紋長袖（新）＋白褲（新）＋帆船鞋/樂福鞋
古著工裝褲（舊、褪色）＋乾淨針織（新、素色）＋簡潔外套（新）＋球鞋
古著套裝單品只取一件：古著西裝外套（舊）＋白T＋牛仔褲（新、無破壞）＋皮鞋
古著牛仔褲（褪色、直筒）＋乾淨牛津襯衫（新）＋輕外套（新、素色）＋樂福鞋
10) きれいめカジュアル / Smart Casual（通勤友好、乾淨端正）
10) きれいめカジュアル / Smart Casual（通勤友好、乾淨端正）
來龍去脈
這是日本非常實用的一條：介於正裝與休閒之間，適合上班、見客、聚餐，也能週末穿。
主要特徵
上身更端正：襯衫、針織、簡潔外套
下身更乾淨：打褶褲、直筒西褲感褲型
球鞋可以，但要「乾淨、線條簡」
實用穿搭方式
針織 + 打褶褲 + 樂福鞋（最日系成熟）
襯衫 + 薄外套 + 直筒褲 + 乾淨球鞋
深色外套 + 同色系褲 + 皮鞋（省力又不失禮）
對應日本品牌／線
TAKEO KIKUCHI
ABAHOUSE
SUIT SELECT
KASHIYAMA
UNITED ARROWS
TOMORROWLAND
What きれいめカジュアル means in Japan
What きれいめカジュアル means in Japan
きれいめカジュアル (kireime casual) is Japan’s everyday version of “smart casual”: casual items, but kept clean, neat, and slightly polished (good fit, simple colors, minimal wrinkles, “proper” shoes/bag).
Origins in Japan
Origins in Japan
1) The “trad / curated casual” base (1970s–1980s)
1) The “trad / curated casual” base (1970s–1980s)
Japan’s select-shop culture taught people to treat casual as something you can “dress up” with taste and coordination (not just weekend wear). Shops like BEAMS (founded 1976) helped popularize curated, lifestyle-driven casual and trad menswear as a normal way to dress in the city.
2) The key turning point: Shibu-Kaji → “Kire-Kaji” (around 1990)
2) The key turning point: Shibu-Kaji → “Kire-Kaji” (around 1990)
A widely cited origin for the term is 「キレカジ」, shorthand for きれいめカジュアル, which emerged around 1990 as a more refined alternative to the simpler/rougher casual image of 渋カジ (Shibu-Kaji). Academic fashion-history writing describes it as “more elegant casual,” often using trad items like navy blazers, polo shirts, chinos as the base.
BEAMS’ own history page also frames キレカジ as a style derived from Shibu-Kaji (e.g., navy blazer + military pants/jeans + loafers) and notes BEAMS as one of the pioneers in pushing it.
Development and why it became mainstream
Development and why it became mainstream
3) 1990s: “coordination” culture makes it easy to copy
3) 1990s: “coordination” culture makes it easy to copy
After the late-80s era when dressing “head-to-toe one brand” was often the ideal, the 1990s shifted toward mixing items and brands—the idea that styling is about how you combine pieces. That made kireime casual a repeatable formula: simple casual base + one or two “clean” elements.
4) 2000s: office casualization accelerates (Cool Biz effect)
4) 2000s: office casualization accelerates (Cool Biz effect)
In 2005, Japan’s Ministry of the Environment promoted COOL BIZ—a “look good while staying comfortable” summer business style to support higher office AC settings (28°C). That institutional push helped normalize jacketless / tieless / lighter business dressing, which overlaps heavily with the “smart casual” lane.
5) 2010s–2020s: select shops systematize “adult smart casual”
5) 2010s–2020s: select shops systematize “adult smart casual”
As workplaces and social venues increasingly used vague dress codes (business casual, smart casual), select shops scaled the solution through easy-to-buy “clean casual” capsules and sub-labels (e.g., UA’s expansion history includes green label relaxing becoming a major line from 1999).
Over time, “きれいめカジュアル” becomes less a trend and more a default urban uniform for dates, dinners, casual office days, and “no suit but don’t look sloppy” situations.
What makes Japanese きれいめカジュアル feel distinct
What makes Japanese きれいめカジュアル feel distinct
Cleanliness/precision (“kireime”) is the priority: crisp collars, controlled silhouette, tidy hems, minimal logos.
“Trad” DNA underneath: blazers, polos, OCBDs, chinos, loafers show up again and again (often modernized).
Pragmatic versatility: built for Tokyo life—commutes, small closets, repeatable outfits.
Smart casual menswear brands in Tokyo
Entry to mid value (easy to find, easy to build outfits)
Entry to mid value (easy to find, easy to build outfits)
green label relaxing (UA)
Clean office-casual staples (easy-care shirts, simple blazers, tapered pants). Great if you want “neat but not stiff.”
Typical prices: Shirts ¥7,000–¥9,000 (S$57–S$73); Tailored jackets often around ¥20,000–¥30,000 (S$163–S$244).nano universe
Sleek, slightly “date-night” smart casual—narrower silhouettes, modern basics, simple outerwear.
Typical prices: Shirts ~¥5,000–¥9,000 (S$41–S$73); Tailored jackets ~¥13,000–¥17,000 (S$106–S$138); Coats commonly ~¥20,000–¥35,000 (S$163–S$285).JOURNAL STANDARD relume
Relaxed smart casual (a bit roomier), good for “clean + casual” with texture (linen/cotton shirts, overshirts).
Typical prices: Shirts commonly ~¥9,000–¥12,000 (S$73–S$98); Tops around ~¥14,000 (S$114).417 EDIFICE
Budget-friendly “clean set-up” vibe—easy matching jacket+pants sets and simple tailoring.
Typical prices: Jackets around ~¥33,000 (S$268); 2-piece set-ups around ~¥19,800 (S$161).
Core Tokyo select-shop smart casual (most “Tokyo smart casual” wardrobes live here)
Core Tokyo select-shop smart casual (most “Tokyo smart casual” wardrobes live here)
BEAUTY&YOUTH UNITED ARROWS
Smart casual with a youthful edge—great casual tailoring, set-ups, and trend-balanced basics.
Typical prices: Set-up jackets commonly ~¥18,000–¥25,000 (S$146–S$203); suits/set-ups often ~¥22,000 (S$179).URBAN RESEARCH
Contemporary smart casual—clean shirts, modern outerwear; also mixes in curated “nicer” brands.
Typical prices: Their accessible shirts often ~¥5,000–¥9,000 (S$41–S$73); Outerwear commonly ~¥25,000–¥70,000 (S$203–S$569) depending on label/brand.SHIPS
“Stylish Standard” (adult, classic) smart casual—great for blazers, knits, and clean shirts.
Typical prices: Shirts often ~¥12,000–¥14,000 (S$98–S$114); Tailored jackets around ~¥38,500 (S$313) (higher for premium pieces).BEAMS (BEAMS / BEAMS HEART / BEAMS PLUS / BEAMS F)
Huge range: from affordable office casual to serious tailoring. Easy to tailor your “smart casual” to your vibe.
Typical prices: BEAMS HEART shirts ~¥7,000–¥10,000 (S$57–S$81); BEAMS PLUS shirts ~¥16,500 (S$134); Jackets can range from ~¥25,000 (S$203) (HEART) to ¥100,000+ and even ~¥308,000 (S$2,504) for top-tier (BEAMS F / imported).UNITED ARROWS (mainline)
More “grown-up” refined smart casual—better fabrics, sharper tailoring, great for business-casual too.
Typical prices: Shirts often ~¥15,000–¥26,000 (S$122–S$211); Tailored jackets commonly ~¥58,000–¥80,000 (S$472–S$650) (and higher for premium brands).EDIFICE (BAYCREW’S)
French-leaning refined smart casual—excellent “city blazer” + trousers looks; also stocks premium imports.
Typical prices: In-house jackets around ~¥28,600–¥35,200 (S$233–S$286); premium pieces can go far higher.
Upper-mid smart casual (polished “nice fabric” tier)
Upper-mid smart casual (polished “nice fabric” tier)
TOMORROWLAND
Polished, upscale smart casual—great if you want “quiet luxury” vibes without going full designer.
Typical prices: Shirts commonly ~¥28,600–¥33,000 (S$233–S$268) (and up); Tailored jackets often ~¥55,000+ (S$447+) with premium pieces much higher.
「通勤友好、乾淨端正」 10 種搭配方式
「通勤友好、乾淨端正」 10 種搭配方式
White shirt + navy pleated trousers (or straight-leg dress trousers) + black/brown loafers + belt
Lightweight knit (crewneck / mock neck, grey or navy) + grey wool trousers + derby shoes + simple wristwatch
Knit polo (deep navy/black) + khaki chinos + suede loafers + tonal outerwear (optional)
Soft-shouldered navy blazer + white T-shirt (heavyweight, structured collar) + straight-leg trousers with a grey dress-trouser feel + clean white sneakers
Shirt + fine-gauge knit vest (or cardigan) + dark straight-leg trousers + loafers (very Japanese, very steady)
Clean short jacket (Harrington / short trench) + plain knit + pleated trousers + leather shoes (commute-friendly without looking old)
Light blue shirt + dark grey straight-leg trousers + minimalist sneakers (all-white or black-and-white) + tote / briefcase
Black/navy thin turtleneck knit + camel or grey overcoat + dark dress trousers + Chelsea boots (the easiest autumn/winter combo)
Monochrome set idea: navy shirt jacket (or blazer) + navy/grey straight-leg trousers + black leather shoes (a cohesive look)
Summer version: linen shirt (beige/light blue) + pleated lightweight trousers (or clean-cut tailored shorts) + loafers/leather sandals (clean-line style)
白襯衫＋深藍打褶褲（或直筒西褲）＋黑/棕樂福鞋＋皮帶
薄針織（圓領/半高領，灰或海軍藍）＋灰羊毛褲＋德比鞋＋簡潔腕錶
針織Polo（深藍/黑）＋卡其奇諾褲＋麂皮樂福鞋＋同色系外套（可選）
軟肩Blazer（海軍藍）＋白T（厚磅、領口挺）＋灰西褲感直筒褲＋乾淨白球鞋
襯衫＋細針織背心（或開襟）＋深色直筒褲＋樂福鞋（很日系、很穩）
簡潔短外套（哈靈頓/短風衣）＋素色針織＋打褶褲＋皮鞋（通勤又不老氣）
淺藍襯衫＋深灰直筒褲＋極簡球鞋（全白或黑白）＋托特/公事包
黑/海軍藍高領薄針織＋駝色或灰色大衣＋深色西褲＋切爾西靴（秋冬最省力）
同色系套裝思路：深藍襯衫外套（或Blazer）＋深藍/灰直筒褲＋黑皮鞋（整體一體感）
夏季版：亞麻襯衫（米/淺藍）＋打褶薄料長褲（或「剪裁乾淨」的西裝短褲）＋樂福鞋/皮革涼鞋（乾淨線條款）
11) ジェンダーフルイド / Gender-fluid（性別邊界更模糊的造型）
11) ジェンダーフルイド / Gender-fluid（性別邊界更模糊的造型）
來龍去脈
近年的東京街頭與設計師品牌語境裡，越來越常看到「柔軟輪廓、飄逸材質、邊界模糊」的男裝表達，不一定要很誇張，也可以很日常。
主要特徵
輪廓更柔：垂墜、飄、長度變化大
材質更輕：薄料、透膚疊穿、光澤感
配件更有“裝飾性”，但仍重視整體平衡
實用穿搭方式（入門不會太衝）
寬鬆西外 + 垂墜寬褲 + 皮鞋（先從輪廓開始）
輕薄長版上衣 + 直筒寬褲（把“飄”控制在上身）
同色系疊穿（避免太多顏色，先讓材質說話）
對應日本品牌
TOGA
doublet
Sasquatchfabrix.
KIDILL
MASU
How “ジェンダーフルイド / gender-fluid style” is understood in Japan
How “ジェンダーフルイド / gender-fluid style” is understood in Japan
In Japan, the fashion conversation more often uses ジェンダーレス (genderless) / ユニセックス (unisex) than “gender-fluid,” but ジェンダーフルイド has increasingly appeared in fashion media to describe styling that moves between (or blends) masculine and feminine codes—not necessarily tied to sexuality, and often framed as an attitude or styling freedom.
A quick timeline of origins and development in Japan
A quick timeline of origins and development in Japan
1) Premodern roots: performance-based gender play (1600s–1800s)
1) Premodern roots: performance-based gender play (1600s–1800s)
Japan has long had highly visible, mainstream traditions where gender presentation is performed and stylized. After bans on women performers, male actors played female roles (onnagata); earlier, wakashu performers were sometimes described as occupying a “third gender” position in how they were perceived and styled.
This matters because it established a cultural logic: gendered appearance can be an artistic “mode,” not just a biological fact.
2) Early modern Japan: new urban identities + gender-coded fashion shifts (1900s–1930s)
2) Early modern Japan: new urban identities + gender-coded fashion shifts (1900s–1930s)
In the early 20th century, Japan saw headline-grabbing urban styles that played with gender expectations—e.g., “modern girls” (moga) wearing short hair and trousers—and the rise of stage worlds where women performed masculinity.
3) Takarazuka Revue: mass-popular “staged androgyny” (1914 → present)
3) Takarazuka Revue: mass-popular “staged androgyny” (1914 → present)
The all-female Takarazuka Revue (women playing male roles as otokoyaku) created one of Japan’s most enduring, widely consumed templates for “stylized masculinity” performed by women—hugely influential on aesthetics and fandom culture.
4) 1980s designer Japan: silhouettes that de-emphasize the body (and gender)
4) 1980s designer Japan: silhouettes that de-emphasize the body (and gender)
When designers such as Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, and Rei Kawakubo (Comme des Garçons) broke internationally in the early 1980s, the look often centered on loose, architectural shapes—aesthetic strategies that can read as gender-ambiguous because they don’t “perform” conventional masculine/feminine body lines.
5) 1980s–1990s youth culture: Visual Kei makes gender-bending aesthetics “cool”
5) 1980s–1990s youth culture: Visual Kei makes gender-bending aesthetics “cool”
Visual kei pushed androgynous / gender-bending styling (makeup, hair, costumes) into youth culture, and later discourse explicitly links it back to traditions like onnagata.
This is a key bridge: from stage tradition → pop subculture → everyday styling inspiration.
6) 2000s–early 2010s: subcultural “practice spaces” (dansō / josō, cosplay, nightlife)
6) 2000s–early 2010s: subcultural “practice spaces” (dansō / josō, cosplay, nightlife)
Before “genderless” went mainstream, there were already visible scenes for experimenting with presentation—dansō (women presenting masculinely), josō (men presenting femininely), and cosplay-related communities—often treated as style/play as much as identity.
7) Mid-2010s: the mainstream “genderless” boom (and the path toward “gender-fluid” language)
7) Mid-2010s: the mainstream “genderless” boom (and the path toward “gender-fluid” language)
The clearest “modern” turning point is the mid-2010s ‘ジェンダーレス男子’ / genderless men boom (Harajuku-linked, makeup + androgynous outfits). It was amplified by major events like Tokyo Girls Collection 2015 and celebrity figures highlighted in mainstream press.
A lot of today’s “gender-fluid style” in Japan is built on this era’s mainstreaming of men wearing makeup, softer silhouettes, and cross-coded items (earrings, blouses, skirts).
8) 2020s: “gender-fluid” as an explicit fashion framing (trend + branding)
8) 2020s: “gender-fluid” as an explicit fashion framing (trend + branding)
In the 2020s, Japanese fashion media increasingly uses ジェンダーフルイド to talk about a market and styling approach that’s not restricted by menswear/womenswear categories, and Japan’s scene is often described as fertile ground for such brands.
Designers also brand directly into “genderless/borderless/ageless” language (example: MIKAGE SHIN describes itself this way in Tokyo Fashion Week materials).
What’s distinct about Japan’s version
What’s distinct about Japan’s version
It often treats gender-fluid presentation as style freedom first (especially in mainstream fashion coverage), even though it overlaps with identity discussions.
The aesthetic lineage is unusually continuous: traditional theatre → Takarazuka → designers → Visual kei → Harajuku genderless → 2020s gender-fluid framing.
Gender-fluid menswear brands in Tokyo
Entry / easy to start (gender-fluid via silhouette + styling)
Entry / easy to start (gender-fluid via silhouette + styling)
HARE
Sharp, youthful Tokyo mode; lots of sheer, drapey, or slightly dressy shirts and clean wide pants that read gender-fluid without trying too hard.
Typical prices: shirts around ¥12,100 (≈ S$99).
PUBLIC TOKYO
“Clean Tokyo contemporary” and Made-in-Japan focus; good for band-collar shirts, refined minimal layers, and office-friendly gender-fluid looks.
Typical prices: shirts ¥13,200–¥19,800 (≈ S$108–S$162).
MAISON SPECIAL
One of the best prime-over / oversized silhouette brands in Tokyo—easy gender-fluid proportions (big shoulders, long lines) and statement fabrics.
Typical prices: tees ¥11,000–¥12,100 (≈ S$90–S$99); shirts often ~¥18,700–¥29,700 (≈ S$152–S$242).
Mid to upper-mid (fashion-forward “Tokyo gender-fluid”)
Mid to upper-mid (fashion-forward “Tokyo gender-fluid”)
TOGA VIRILIS
Great for sheer/printed tops, hardware details, and elegant-but-weird layering—very gender-fluid when paired with wide trousers or sleek shoes.
Typical prices: shirts ~¥58,300–¥59,400 (≈ S$475–S$485); pants around ¥75,900 (≈ S$619).
FACETASM
Deconstruction and volume; strong for gender-fluid street tailoring (odd seams, asymmetry, wide pants, hybrid tops).
Typical prices: tees ¥20,900 (≈ S$171); pants ¥52,800 (≈ S$431); jackets ¥68,200–¥74,800 (≈ S$556–S$610).
MIKAGE SHIN
Explicitly “all genders” positioning with dramatic trousers, crafted textiles, jewelry accents—more “fashion week” gender-fluid than basics.
Typical prices: pants ¥72,600 (≈ S$592); shirts can reach ¥68,200 (≈ S$556); ear cuffs ¥20,900 (≈ S$171).
Designer / avant (where Japan’s gender-fluid styling really shines)
Designer / avant (where Japan’s gender-fluid styling really shines)
sulvam
Gender-fluid tailoring energy: broken tailoring, long coats, skewed jackets—reads masculine/feminine depending on what you pair it with.
Typical prices: coats ¥132,000–¥154,000 (≈ S$1,077–S$1,256); jackets around ¥90,200 (≈ S$736).
COMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUS
The “design language” of gender-fluid: skirts, unconventional tailoring, and silhouettes that don’t care about categories.
Typical prices: tees ¥14,300 (≈ S$117); shirts ¥28,600–¥49,500 (≈ S$233–S$404); jackets often ¥97,900–¥165,000+ (≈ S$799–S$1,346+); skirts ~¥104,500–¥110,000 (≈ S$852–S$897).
Ground Y (Yohji Yamamoto “entry” universe, often unisex)
Drapey black, sarouel shapes, and minimalist statement pieces—very wearable gender-fluid mode in Tokyo.
Typical prices: sarouel pants ¥59,400 (≈ S$485); coverall jacket ¥104,500 (≈ S$852).
Yohji Yamamoto POUR HOMME
The classic Japan “kuro-mode” pillar—drape, long coats, poetic black that naturally reads gender-fluid in silhouette.
Typical prices: coats can sit around ¥132,000 (≈ S$1,077) and go much higher depending on piece/season.
doublet
Playful conceptual pieces that flip expectations—gender-fluid through humor + odd construction (it’s a statement brand).
Typical prices: hoodies ¥94,600 (≈ S$772); trousers ¥70,400–¥97,900 (≈ S$574–S$799); jackets ¥140,800–¥154,000 (≈ S$1,149–S$1,256).
sacai
Hybrid garments (shirt+tee, jacket+MA-1, etc.)—great for gender-fluid layering that still looks “premium normal.”
Typical prices: tees commonly ~¥29,700–¥37,400 (≈ S$242–S$305) (varies by fabric/collab/sale).
「性別邊界更模糊的造型」 10種搭配方式
「性別邊界更模糊的造型」 10種搭配方式
Relaxed blazer (soft shoulders, slightly long) + drapey wide trousers (suiting fabric) + pointed flat shoes / derby shoes
Sheer tights-like thin long-sleeve top (or a lightweight base layer) + short-sleeve shirt worn open as an outer layer + straight wide-leg trousers + delicate necklace
Longline shirt (hem down to mid-thigh) + slim straight trousers (or slight flares) + minimalist leather shoes (long on top, tapered below)
Lightweight drapey knit cardigan + tank top underneath + high-waisted wide trousers + belt (to emphasize the waistline)
Stand-collar long outer coat (overcoat or long trench) + tonal inner layers + drapey trousers + leather boots (tonal styling is the safest)
Boxy cropped blazer (slightly short) + extra-long inner layer (intentionally showing) + wide trousers + platform loafers (proportions are designed)
Silk/satin shirt (subtle sheen, slightly open collar) + dark wide trousers + pointed-toe shoes (“let the fabric speak”)
Sleeveless longline top (or a long vest layered on top) + cropped inner top + wide trousers + small handheld bag (layers + fluid movement)
Flowing midi skirt (or skirt-pants / wide skirt-like bottoms) + clean knit top + short jacket (clean, not busy) + leather shoes
All-black / monochrome layering: thin turtleneck + drapey shirt worn as an outer layer + wide trousers + boots (build depth through different materials)
寬鬆西裝外套（軟肩、略長）＋垂墜寬褲（西裝料）＋尖頭平底鞋／德比鞋
絲襪感薄長袖（或輕薄內搭）＋短袖襯衫外罩（開釦）＋直筒寬褲＋細項鍊
長版襯衫（衣長到大腿）＋窄身直筒褲（或微喇叭）＋極簡皮鞋（上長下收）
針織開襟（薄、垂）＋背心內搭＋高腰寬褲＋腰帶（強調腰線）
立領長外套（大衣或長風衣）＋同色系內搭＋垂墜長褲＋皮靴（同色系最穩）
寬版短西外（略短）＋長下擺內搭（刻意露出）＋寬褲＋厚底樂福鞋（比例有設計感）
絲質/緞面襯衫（微光澤、領口開一點）＋深色寬褲＋尖頭鞋（「材質說話」）
無袖長版上衣（或長背心外搭）＋短上衣內搭＋寬褲＋手提小包（層次＋流動感）
飄逸半身裙（或裙褲/寬裙感下身）＋簡潔針織上衣＋短外套（乾淨不花）＋皮鞋
全黑/同色系疊穿：薄高領＋垂墜襯衫外罩＋寬褲＋靴（靠「不同材質」做層次）
日本男装品牌
日本男装品牌
Budget basics & value
Budget basics & value
UNIQLO / UNIQLO U — Smart casual / Minimal basics
UNIQLO / UNIQLO U — Smart casual / Minimal basics
Vibe: clean essentials, strong value, easy layering; UNIQLO U is more fashion-forward in cut.
Typical retail: Tops ¥1,500–¥7,000 (≈S$12–57) • Bottoms ¥4,000–¥8,000 (≈S$33–65) • Outerwear ¥7,000–¥15,000 (≈S$57–122)
GU — Trend casual / Street-leaning casual (Y2K-adjacent)
GU — Trend casual / Street-leaning casual (Y2K-adjacent)
Vibe: fast trend silhouettes (wide/short), very budget-friendly.
Typical retail: Tops ¥990–¥4,000 (≈S$8–33) • Bottoms ¥2,500–¥4,000 (≈S$20–33) • Outerwear ¥4,000–¥10,000 (≈S$33–81)
MUJI — Minimal / Normcore
MUJI — Minimal / Normcore
Vibe: quiet, no-logo basics in neutral tones; “clean daily wear.”
Typical retail: Tops ¥2,000–¥8,000 (≈S$16–65) • Bottoms ¥4,000–¥9,000 (≈S$33–73) • Outerwear ¥8,000–¥20,000 (≈S$65–162)
Workman / Workman Plus — Gorpcore / Workwear-functional
Workman / Workman Plus — Gorpcore / Workwear-functional
Vibe: performance-first (rain/wind/insulation) at low prices.
Typical retail: Tops ¥980–¥2,000 (≈S$8–16) • Bottoms ¥1,900–¥3,900 (≈S$15–32) • Shells/Outerwear ¥2,900–¥7,900 (≈S$24–64)
Affordable street & casual
Affordable street & casual
BAPE — Streetwear / Hype / Logo (also: Heisei Y2K pillar)
BAPE — Streetwear / Hype / Logo (also: Heisei Y2K pillar)
Vibe: iconic graphics/camo, “drop” culture, collectible hoodies/tees.
Typical retail: Tops ¥10,000–¥16,000 (≈S$81–130) • Bottoms ¥25,000–¥45,000 (≈S$203–366) • Outerwear ¥28,000–¥50,000+ (≈S$227–406+)
WTAPS — Military street / Urban utility
WTAPS — Military street / Urban utility
Vibe: muted military/workwear street; strong jackets/cargos.
Typical retail: Tops ¥8,000–¥35,000 (≈S$65–284) • Bottoms ¥25,000–¥45,000 (≈S$203–366) • Outerwear ¥45,000–¥120,000 (≈S$366–974)
Neighborhood — Workwear / Moto street
Neighborhood — Workwear / Moto street
Vibe: rugged moto/workwear street; denim and jackets, “adult street.”
Typical retail: Tops ¥8,000–¥30,000 (≈S$65–244) • Bottoms ¥25,000–¥45,000 (≈S$203–366) • Outerwear ¥45,000–¥100,000+ (≈S$366–812+)
WACKO MARIA — Rockabilly / Retro dressy-casual
WACKO MARIA — Rockabilly / Retro dressy-casual
Vibe: party shirts + lounge tailoring + culture collabs; “going-out” menswear.
Typical retail: Tops ¥7,000–¥45,000 (≈S$57–366) • Bottoms ¥25,000–¥55,000 (≈S$203–447) • Outerwear/tailoring ¥50,000–¥160,000 (≈S$406–1,299)
Needles — Vintage mix / Sports street (also: Heisei Y2K ingredient)
Needles — Vintage mix / Sports street (also: Heisei Y2K ingredient)
Vibe: track pants + retro-sport silhouettes; playful color and easy statement looks.
Typical retail: Tops ¥18,000–¥35,000 (≈S$146–284) • Bottoms (track pants) ¥22,000–¥35,000 (≈S$179–284) • Outerwear ¥35,000–¥80,000 (≈S$284–650)
Select shops
Select shops
BEAMS (general) — Smart casual / Elevated casual
BEAMS (general) — Smart casual / Elevated casual
Vibe: huge curator of Japanese menswear; lots of collabs and styling inspiration.
Typical retail: Tops ¥5,000–¥25,000 (≈S$41–203) • Bottoms ¥12,000–¥30,000 (≈S$97–244) • Outerwear ¥25,000–¥80,000 (≈S$203–650)
BEAMS PLUS — Americana / Ivy / City Boy (also: Amekaji-light)
BEAMS PLUS — Americana / Ivy / City Boy (also: Amekaji-light)
Vibe: mid-century American wardrobe through a Japanese lens (OCBD, pleats, chore coats).
Typical retail: Tops ¥11,000–¥30,000 (≈S$89–244) • Bottoms ¥18,000–¥30,000 (≈S$146–244) • Outerwear ¥30,000–¥70,000+ (≈S$244–568+)
BEAMS F — Old Money / Classic tailoring / Smart casual (added)
BEAMS F — Old Money / Classic tailoring / Smart casual (added)
Vibe: BEAMS’ dress label (European classic base, modern interpretation; adult elegant casual).
Typical retail (examples): ties around ¥12,100 (≈S$98), suits around ¥93,500 (≈S$759).
General range: Tops ¥12,000–¥40,000 (≈S$97–325) • Tailoring/Outerwear ¥60,000–¥180,000+ (≈S$487–1,462+)
United Arrows — Smart casual / Business casual (also: Old Money-adjacent)
United Arrows — Smart casual / Business casual (also: Old Money-adjacent)
Vibe: polished “grown-up” wardrobe, clean tailoring and office-friendly fits.
Typical retail: Tops ¥7,000–¥28,000 (≈S$57–227) • Bottoms ¥16,000–¥35,000 (≈S$130–284) • Outerwear ¥35,000–¥120,000 (≈S$284–974)
green label relaxing — Smart casual (accessible)
green label relaxing — Smart casual (accessible)
Vibe: UA’s more affordable line; dependable weekday pieces.
Typical retail: Tops ¥4,000–¥18,000 (≈S$33–146) • Bottoms ¥9,000–¥22,000 (≈S$73–179) • Outerwear ¥18,000–¥55,000 (≈S$146–447)
SHIPS — Smart casual / Classic (also: Old Money-adjacent)
SHIPS — Smart casual / Classic (also: Old Money-adjacent)
Vibe: understated classic wardrobe, strong layering and business-casual staples.
Typical retail: Tops ¥6,000–¥28,000 (≈S$49–227) • Bottoms ¥16,000–¥35,000 (≈S$130–284) • Outerwear ¥35,000–¥100,000 (≈S$284–812)
Journal Standard / BAYCREW’S — Elevated casual
Journal Standard / BAYCREW’S — Elevated casual
Vibe: relaxed contemporary casual; great overshirts, denim, casual outerwear.
Typical retail: Tops ¥5,000–¥22,000 (≈S$41–179) • Bottoms ¥12,000–¥28,000 (≈S$97–227) • Outerwear ¥25,000–¥70,000 (≈S$203–568)
Urban Research — Smart casual / Contemporary casual
Urban Research — Smart casual / Contemporary casual
Vibe: clean city casual; easy silhouettes and seasonal sets.
Typical retail: Tops ¥5,000–¥25,000 (≈S$41–203) • Bottoms ¥12,000–¥30,000 (≈S$97–244) • Outerwear ¥25,000–¥80,000 (≈S$203–650)
nano・universe — Smart casual / Contemporary
nano・universe — Smart casual / Contemporary
Vibe: modern “date-night” smart casual; neat fits with a mild edge.
Typical retail: Tops ¥4,000–¥20,000 (≈S$33–162) • Bottoms ¥10,000–¥25,000 (≈S$81–203) • Outerwear ¥20,000–¥60,000 (≈S$162–487)
Upper-mid “Tokyo contemporary / quiet flex”
Upper-mid “Tokyo contemporary / quiet flex”
AURALEE — Minimal / Elevated casual (Old Money-adjacent when styled classic)
AURALEE — Minimal / Elevated casual (Old Money-adjacent when styled classic)
Vibe: fabric-first minimalism; subtle colors; premium feel.
Typical retail: Tops ¥12,000–¥45,000 (≈S$97–366) • Bottoms ¥30,000–¥55,000 (≈S$244–447) • Outerwear ¥80,000–¥180,000+ (≈S$650–1,462+)
COMOLI — Minimal / Elevated casual
COMOLI — Minimal / Elevated casual
Vibe: relaxed “grown-up Japan” silhouettes; airy drape; understated luxury.
Typical retail: Tops ¥15,000–¥60,000 (≈S$122–487) • Bottoms ¥50,000–¥70,000 (≈S$406–568) • Outerwear ¥80,000–¥300,000+ (≈S$650–2,437+)
Graphpaper — Minimal / Contemporary uniform
Graphpaper — Minimal / Contemporary uniform
Vibe: clean uniform cuts (often slightly oversized); great shirts + wide trousers.
Typical retail: Tops ¥10,000–¥35,000 (≈S$81–284) • Bottoms ¥26,000–¥45,000 (≈S$211–366) • Outerwear ¥45,000–¥110,000 (≈S$366–893)
MARKAWARE — Minimal smart casual / Refined workwear
MARKAWARE — Minimal smart casual / Refined workwear
Vibe: thoughtful basics; sits between tailoring and workwear; material-driven.
Typical retail: Tops ¥12,000–¥38,000 (≈S$97–309) • Bottoms ¥28,000–¥50,000 (≈S$227–406) • Outerwear ¥55,000–¥140,000 (≈S$447–1,137)
A.PRESSE — Heritage refined / Elevated casual (Amekaji-luxe)
A.PRESSE — Heritage refined / Elevated casual (Amekaji-luxe)
Vibe: heritage shapes rebuilt in premium materials; “quiet luxury vintage.”
Typical retail: Tops ¥15,000–¥60,000 (≈S$122–487) • Bottoms ¥45,000–¥80,000 (≈S$366–650) • Outerwear ¥90,000–¥220,000 (≈S$731–1,786)
ssstein — Minimal / Contemporary
ssstein — Minimal / Contemporary
Vibe: drapey modern silhouettes; great coats/trousers for “Tokyo styling.”
Typical retail: Tops ¥18,000–¥45,000 (≈S$146–366) • Bottoms ¥28,000–¥55,000 (≈S$227–447) • Outerwear ¥60,000–¥160,000 (≈S$487–1,299)
YOKE — Contemporary casual / Minimal
YOKE — Contemporary casual / Minimal
Vibe: modern proportions, layer-friendly; strong knitwear and relaxed tailoring.
Typical retail: Tops ¥18,000–¥40,000 (≈S$146–325) • Bottoms ¥26,000–¥55,000 (≈S$211–447) • Outerwear ¥55,000–¥150,000 (≈S$447–1,218)
TEATORA — Tech smart casual / Travelwear
TEATORA — Tech smart casual / Travelwear
Vibe: office-to-airport sets; packable/easy-care tailoring.
Typical retail: Bottoms ¥39,600–¥44,000 (≈S$322–357) • Jackets ¥60,000–¥90,000 (≈S$487–731) • Coats ¥96,800–¥99,000 (≈S$786–804)
Technical urban-outdoor (gorpcore spectrum)
Technical urban-outdoor (gorpcore spectrum)
nanamica — Adult gorpcore / Utility smart casual
nanamica — Adult gorpcore / Utility smart casual
Vibe: functional fabrics in “normal clothes” silhouettes; understated and clean.
Typical retail: Tops ¥12,100–¥17,600 (≈S$98–143) • Bottoms ¥24,200–¥34,100 (≈S$197–277) • Outerwear ¥53,900–¥75,900 (≈S$438–616)
The North Face Purple Label — Refined gorpcore / City outdoor
The North Face Purple Label — Refined gorpcore / City outdoor
Vibe: TNF outdoor DNA with cleaner fabrics and city proportions (Japan line).
Typical retail: Tops ¥8,800–¥14,300 (≈S$71–116) • Bottoms ¥24,200–¥35,200 (≈S$197–286) • Outerwear ¥46,200–¥140,800 (≈S$375–1,143)
Goldwin — Techwear / Minimal outdoor
Goldwin — Techwear / Minimal outdoor
Vibe: premium performance materials; minimal aesthetic; strong outerwear.
Typical retail: Tops ¥12,000–¥28,000 (≈S$97–227) • Bottoms ¥18,000–¥40,000 (≈S$146–325) • Outerwear ¥45,000–¥140,000+ (≈S$366–1,137+)
Descente (Japan lines) — Techwear / Urban performance
Descente (Japan lines) — Techwear / Urban performance
Vibe: sharp, sporty-performance minimalism; great commuter shells.
Typical retail: Tops ¥12,000–¥25,000 (≈S$97–203) • Bottoms ¥18,000–¥35,000 (≈S$146–284) • Outerwear ¥45,000–¥120,000 (≈S$366–974)
and wander — Gorpcore / Fashion outdoor
and wander — Gorpcore / Fashion outdoor
Vibe: hiking aesthetics with fashion styling; reflective/technical layering details.
Typical retail: Tops ¥20,000–¥35,000 (≈S$162–284) • Bottoms ¥22,000–¥35,000 (≈S$179–284) • Outerwear ¥57,000–¥100,000+ (≈S$463–812+)
High designer / avant-garde Japan
High designer / avant-garde Japan
Comme des Garçons — Avant-garde / Eccentric standard
Comme des Garçons — Avant-garde / Eccentric standard
Vibe: from wearable twist-on-basics to conceptual runway depending on line; strong pattern/layer logic.
Typical retail: Tops ¥12,000–¥55,000 (≈S$97–447) • Knit ¥40,000–¥90,000 (≈S$325–731) • Outerwear ¥80,000–¥300,000+ (≈S$650–2,437+)
Yohji Yamamoto — Kuro-mode / Avant-garde
Yohji Yamamoto — Kuro-mode / Avant-garde
Vibe: iconic draped black tailoring; long silhouettes, poetic volume.
Typical retail: Tops ¥25,000–¥80,000 (≈S$203–650) • Bottoms ¥45,000–¥120,000 (≈S$366–974) • Coats ¥120,000–¥400,000+ (≈S$974–3,250+)
sacai — Avant-garde hybrid / Elevated casual
sacai — Avant-garde hybrid / Elevated casual
Vibe: garment-hybrids (two pieces fused); built-in layering; statement outerwear.
Typical retail: Tops ¥25,000–¥80,000 (≈S$203–650) • Bottoms ¥45,000–¥100,000 (≈S$366–812) • Outerwear ¥90,000–¥350,000+ (≈S$731–2,843+)
kolor — Designer casual / Eccentric standard
kolor — Designer casual / Eccentric standard
Vibe: playful pattern/color + clever construction; “designer but wearable.”
Typical retail: Tops ¥18,000–¥60,000 (≈S$146–487) • Bottoms ¥35,000–¥90,000 (≈S$284–731) • Outerwear ¥80,000–¥250,000+ (≈S$650–2,031+)
Luxury craft & cult
Luxury craft & cult
visvim — Heritage luxury / Elevated casual (Amekaji-luxe)
visvim — Heritage luxury / Elevated casual (Amekaji-luxe)
Vibe: craft-heavy heritage; special textiles/natural dye feel; collector pricing.
Typical retail: Tops ¥35,000–¥160,000 (≈S$284–1,299) • Bottoms ¥90,000–¥160,000 (≈S$731–1,299) • Outerwear ¥200,000–¥450,000+ (≈S$1,625–3,656+)
Kapital — Vintage mix / Heritage maximalism (Amekaji/artisan)
Kapital — Vintage mix / Heritage maximalism (Amekaji/artisan)
Vibe: patchwork/boro energy, playful graphics; very “character pieces.”
Typical retail: Tops ¥12,000–¥50,000 (≈S$97–406) • Bottoms ¥30,000–¥70,000 (≈S$244–568) • Outerwear ¥60,000–¥180,000+ (≈S$487–1,462+)
Hender Scheme — Minimal luxury accessories / Craft leather
Hender Scheme — Minimal luxury accessories / Craft leather
Vibe: leather footwear/goods that patina beautifully; minimal branding.
Typical retail: Shoes ¥38,500–¥93,000 (≈S$313–755) • Bags/small goods ¥20,000–¥120,000+ (≈S$162–974+)
Pleated modernism
Pleated modernism
HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE — Minimal designer / Smart casual (modern)
HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE — Minimal designer / Smart casual (modern)
Vibe: pleated “product clothing”: comfort + sharp silhouette; travel-friendly.
Typical retail: Pants ¥35,000–¥55,000 (≈S$284–447) • Tops ¥25,000–¥66,000 (≈S$203–536) • Jackets ¥70,000–¥99,000+ (≈S$568–804+)
混搭規則
混搭規則
把混搭當成「錨點 + 變化點」：
錨點：先固定你想呈現的主風格（例如 City Boy）。
變化點：只加一個跨風格元素（例如一件機能外套）。
最穩的混搭路線（照做很少翻車）
City Boy × Gorpcore：乾淨寬鬆內搭 + 一件機能外套
Old Money × 上質カジュアル：針織/皮鞋做端正，褲子與內搭舒服一點
黒モード × エキセントリックスタンダード：全黑打底 + 比例/材質做“微改造”
古著MIX × 任何一派：只放 1 件古著當主角，其餘回到乾淨基本款
平成Y2K × 街頭：比例（上貼下寬）固定，配件/厚鞋擇一加分
混搭硬規則（請當成紅線）
一次只讓一件單品“很強”（寬褲已很寬，上衣就乾淨；外套很機能，其他就收斂）
色盤先鎖 2–3 色（黑/白/灰/海軍藍/卡其最安全）
用材質做層次，不用花色做層次（同色不同料＝東京感）
避免踩雷的總原則
避免踩雷的總原則
比例比品牌更重要：衣長、褲長、肩線先對
寬鬆≠買大件：買大只會垮，City Boy 的寬是“設計的寬”
褲腳處理乾淨：堆太亂或拖地，很容易直接變邋遢
鞋子決定風格：樂福鞋→更老錢；越野鞋→更Gorpcore；厚底→更Y2K
Logo 控制：老錢風尤其要避大Logo（否則“裝”感很重）
配件不要一次上太多：Y2K 選一個（腰鍊/金屬/厚鞋）就夠
機能別全套：一件機能外套就很夠，整套容易像登山
黑系不是全黑就贏：要靠材質差與輪廓差撐起層次
先建立“你的制服公式”：每派先固定 2 套順手搭配，再慢慢擴
新單品先試一週：符合你日常場景才是真的“適合你”
Japanese menswear brands in Singapore
Physical stores in Singapore
Physical stores in Singapore
Dover Street Market Singapore (DSM) — best all-rounder for “Tokyo designer / elevated casual”
Dover Street Market Singapore (DSM) — best all-rounder for “Tokyo designer / elevated casual”
Where: Block 18, Dempsey Road, Singapore 249677.
Why go: One of the strongest curations in SG for Japanese fashion.
Japanese brands you can find:
AURALEE (AURALEE’s official stockist list includes DSM Singapore).
sacai (sold via DSMS e-shop too).
Rosyth Terrace — great for “quiet Tokyo” + tech/heritage + cult labels
Rosyth Terrace — great for “quiet Tokyo” + tech/heritage + cult labels
Where: 40 Ubi Crescent #01-09, Singapore 408567.
Why go: Strong on modern Japanese brands and “collector” taste.
Japanese brands shown on their store/site: nanamica, visvim, Graphpaper, WACKO MARIA (and more).
The Denim Store — best for Amekaji / repro Americana / Japanese denim heritage
The Denim Store — best for Amekaji / repro Americana / Japanese denim heritage
Where: 371 Beach Road, #01-08/09 City Gate, Singapore 199597.
Why go: If you like Warehouse & Co., Buzz Rickson’s, Sugar Cane, Pure Blue Japan, Momotaro, orSlow etc., this is the SG hub.
Example brand pages on their site include orSlow and Buzz Rickson’s.
Colony Clothing — classic menswear + selected Japanese fashion labels
Colony Clothing — classic menswear + selected Japanese fashion labels
Where: 83 Clemenceau Ave #01-37 UE Square, Singapore 239920.
Why go: More “grown-up” menswear taste (also good for shoes), but they do carry Japan labels too.
Japanese brand example: Needles appears on their site as a stocked brand.
HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE — for pleats / travel-friendly designer basics
HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE — for pleats / travel-friendly designer basics
Where: The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands, #01-17.
BAPE STORE® Singapore — for streetwear / hype
BAPE STORE® Singapore — for streetwear / hype
Where: Mandarin Gallery (directory lists the store).
PORTER (Porter International) — bags/accessories (Japan-adjacent category)
PORTER (Porter International) — bags/accessories (Japan-adjacent category)
Where: Wisma Atria, 435 Orchard Road, #03-06.
Everyday Japanese basics
Everyday Japanese basics
UNIQLO / MUJI are the obvious go-tos for clean basics (smart casual foundations).
Online options that deliver to Singapore (useful when SG stockists don’t carry niche labels)
Online options that deliver to Singapore (useful when SG stockists don’t carry niche labels)
DSMS E-Shop (Singapore) for DSM’s brand selection (e.g., AURALEE, sacai).
END. (SG site) carries a lot of Japanese labels (examples: AURALEE, nanamica, orSlow, visvim).
SSENSE (SG) often has AURALEE and other Japanese designers.
MR PORTER (SG) stocks Japanese designer/street/heritage labels (examples: sacai, orSlow).
在台北買日牌男裝
在台北買日牌男裝
信義區（旗艦店、設計師線最集中）
信義區（旗艦店、設計師線最集中）
台北 101 購物中心（2F）— ISSEY MIYAKE / HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE
走「設計師但好穿、日常可用」路線：褶皺、輕量外套、俐落褲裝等。
微風南山（Breeze Nan Shan）
這裡常有日系選貨與潮流店進駐；像 COMME des GARÇONS 支線 CDGCDGCDG 就在微風南山開店（文中給到店址資訊）。
新光三越 台北信義新天地 A9（3F）— UNDERCOVER
日本設計師品牌（偏「怪趣味、機能混搭、實驗感」）。
麗晶精品 Regent Galleria（B2）— HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE
若你住中山區或想逛精品環境，這裡也常見 HOMME PLISSÉ 的櫃／店資訊與活動貼文。
東區（忠孝敦化一帶：街頭、軍裝機能、選貨店密度高）
東區（忠孝敦化一帶：街頭、軍裝機能、選貨店密度高）
INVINCIBLE（台北店）
台北很代表性的日潮選貨店，常見 WTAPS / NEIGHBORHOOD 這類「軍事街頭、都市機能」取向的日牌；品牌官網的經銷資訊也列出 INVINCIBLE（含台北店地址）。
NEEDLES / A.PRESSE【台北店】
偏「日式復古混搭、運動街頭、質料講究」的線；台北店資訊（地址、電話）可參考其店家公告。
BAPE STORE® TAIPEI（仁愛路四段）
經典日系 hype／圖案街頭。官方店鋪頁面有地址與電話。
UNITED ARROWS 大安店
很適合找「smart casual、城市成熟、乾淨俐落」：官方頁面列出地址、營業時間與販售支線（如 UNITED ARROWS & SONS、BEAUTY & YOUTH、Steven Alan 等）。
微風廣場（Breeze Plaza：黑色系／前衛設計師）
微風廣場（Breeze Plaza：黑色系／前衛設計師）
Yohji Yamamoto 複合店（微風廣場 1F）
典型「黑モード / Kuro-mode」聖地：寬鬆垂墜、詩意剪裁、黑色層次。
中山・富錦街（質感選品／日常高品質、城市大人感）
中山・富錦街（質感選品／日常高品質、城市大人感）
BEAMS（台北多店）
很好逛也好入門：從 city boy、smart casual、elevated casual 到美式常春藤都有；BEAMS Taiwan 官網列出多個台北店點。
FUJIN TREE 355（富錦街）
偏「質感選品」路線，店內有選 AURALEE 等日牌（AURALEE 就是那種安靜、面料強、版型乾淨的「大人日常」）。
WASHIDA PARK（大安區麗水街）
台灣很有名的選品店系統，在台北也有據點；他們也做過 COMOLI 合作企劃（偏「成熟、放鬆、質料派」）。
想用「二手」撿日牌（古着 mix、價格更甜）
想用「二手」撿日牌（古着 mix、價格更甜）
2nd STREET（台北多店；例如台北車站館前店 B1）
日本大型二手連鎖在台灣也有很多店。台北車站館前店地址與營業時間在官網頁面可查。
你甚至可以在它的網店分類裡看到常見日牌標籤（如 AURALEE／sacai／COMOLI），再決定要不要跑實體店碰運氣（庫存會浮動）。
額外一條：想找「大人系 gorpcore／城市戶外」
額外一條：想找「大人系 gorpcore／城市戶外」
nanamica 的台北 stockist
nanamica 官網 stockists 直接列出台北的合作店（例如 Groovy Store、Hotel V、Plain-me、以及新光三越台北信義 A9 等）。
Harajuku Shopping Route
Harajuku Shopping Route
11:00–11:45 — 1) HUMAN MADE OFFLINE STORE
11:00–11:45 — 1) HUMAN MADE OFFLINE STORE
Style: playful vintage-Americana street / “neo-amekaji” (graphics, varsity vibes, workwear references).
Typical prices: tees ¥9k–¥15k (S$73–S$122); sweats ¥25k–¥40k (S$203–S$325); jackets ¥40k–¥80k (S$325–S$650).
Hours: 11:00–19:00.
Walk → BEAMS Harajuku: ~7–10 min
11:55–12:30 — 2) BEAMS Harajuku
11:55–12:30 — 2) BEAMS Harajuku
Style: City Boy HQ (wide mix: elevated casual, collaborations, easy layering, “Tokyo casual”).
Typical prices: tees ¥6k–¥25k (S$49–S$203); shirts ¥12k–¥30k (S$97–S$244); outerwear ¥25k–¥80k (S$203–S$650).
Hours: 11:00–20:00.
Walk → UNITED ARROWS: ~4–6 min
12:35–13:10 — 3) UNITED ARROWS Harajuku Main Store
12:35–13:10 — 3) UNITED ARROWS Harajuku Main Store
Style: grown-up City Boy / smart casual with a cleaner, more “adult Tokyo” feel than BEAMS.
Typical prices: shirts ¥15k–¥35k (S$122–S$284); knits ¥20k–¥50k (S$162–S$406); outerwear ¥60k–¥200k+ (S$487–S$1,624+).
Hours note: often 12:00–20:00 on weekdays / 11:00–20:00 on weekends/holidays (so your 11am start is still fine because we’re coming after 12).
Walk → BEAMS PLUS: ~4–6 min
13:15–13:45 — 4) BEAMS PLUS Harajuku
13:15–13:45 — 4) BEAMS PLUS Harajuku
Style: Americana / Ivy / heritage City Boy (OCBDs, chinos, fatigue pants, casual tailoring).
Typical prices: shirts ¥15k–¥25k (S$122–S$203); pants ¥15k–¥25k (S$122–S$203); outerwear ¥35k–¥80k (S$284–S$650).
Hours note: Mon–Fri 12:00–20:00; Sat/Sun/PH 11:00–20:00.
Walk → BEAMS F: ~2–3 min
13:48–14:15 — 5) BEAMS F / International Gallery BEAMS
13:48–14:15 — 5) BEAMS F / International Gallery BEAMS
Style: the most “grown-up” tailoring stop (sport coats, dress shirts, loafers, refined casual).
Typical prices: shirts ¥18k–¥35k (S$146–S$284); sport coats ¥80k–¥200k (S$650–S$1,624); suits ¥120k–¥300k (S$974–S$2,435); ties ¥10k–¥20k (S$81–S$162).
Hours note: Mon–Fri 12:00–20:00; Sat/Sun/PH 11:00–20:00.
Walk → BerBerJin: ~2–3 min
14:18–15:05 — 6) BerBerJin (added)
14:18–15:05 — 6) BerBerJin (added)
Style: serious Harajuku vintage (archive-level Americana: denim, tees, military/workwear gems).
Typical prices: tees ¥15k–¥60k (S$122–S$487); denim ¥30k–¥150k (S$244–S$1,218); jackets ¥60k–¥300k+ (S$487–S$2,435+).
Hours: 13:00–19:00.
Walk → DESCENDANT: ~8–12 min (nice Cat Street-ish stroll)
15:15–15:45 — 7) DESCENDANT TOKYO
15:15–15:45 — 7) DESCENDANT TOKYO
Style: calm “adult street” (surf/skate roots, roomy silhouettes, muted palette; easy City Boy).
Typical prices: tees ¥8k–¥14k (S$65–S$114); shirts ¥20k–¥35k (S$162–S$284); outerwear ¥40k–¥90k (S$325–S$731).
Hours: commonly 11:00–19:00.
Walk → RAGTAG: ~3–5 min
15:50–16:50 — 8) RAGTAG Harajuku (added)
15:50–16:50 — 8) RAGTAG Harajuku (added)
Style: grown-up secondhand paradise (designer + select-shop + street + outdoor; great “quiet flex” finds).
Typical prices (secondhand): tees ¥3k–¥15k (S$24–S$122); shirts/knits ¥6k–¥30k (S$49–S$244); outerwear ¥15k–¥120k (S$122–S$974).
Hours: 11:00–20:00.
Walk → JOURNAL STANDARD: ~3–5 min
16:55–17:30 — 9) JOURNAL STANDARD Omotesando (MENS)
16:55–17:30 — 9) JOURNAL STANDARD Omotesando (MENS)
Style: elevated casual / smart casual (very wearable, good layering, approachable vs UA/BEAMS F).
Typical prices: tees ¥6k–¥10k (S$49–S$81); shirts ¥12k–¥22k (S$97–S$179); outerwear ¥25k–¥60k (S$203–S$487).
Hours: 11:00–20:00.
Japanese Denim
Japanese Denim
１分でおしゃれ - ＭＢ(著)
１分でおしゃれ - ＭＢ(著)
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