What people mean by “Japanese denim” (three different claims):

• Japanese denim fabric = denim cloth woven in Japan (often associated with Okayama/Kojima, but not limited to it).
  
  

• Made-in-Japan garment (MIJ) = jeans cut & sewn in Japan.
  
  

• Japanese brand = the label is Japanese, but production can be global depending on the line.
  
  

Why it matters:

• Select shops may sell “Japanese brand” items that aren’t MIJ. Flagships may emphasize MIJ. You’re buying for silhouette + drape + wash + construction, so it helps to know which claim you’re paying for.

Denim = twill fabric（綾織 / あやおり aya-ori） built from:

• Warp / 縦糸（たていと tate-ito）: lengthwise yarns (often indigo-dyed); dominant on the face of denim.
  
  

• Weft / 横糸（よこいと yoko-ito）: crosswise yarns (often white/ecru); influences warmth and tone.
  
  

Key takeaway:

• Warp controls most visible color; weft heavily affects handfeel (how it feels) and “vintage warmth.”

This explains why two jeans can look similar but feel totally different:

1. Fiber (cotton) selection → softness, fuzz, durability
   
   

2. Spinning (yarn making) → texture and strength
   
   

3. Dyeing → depth, color transfer, fade tone
   
   

4. Weaving setup (loom type/tension/density) → drape + texture
   
   

5. Textile finishing → stability + surface feel
   
   

6. Cutting & sewing → longevity + how the garment hangs
   
   

7. Garment washing/processing → final look + softness + sometimes strength
   
   

Why it matters in Tokyo styling:

• For wide/baggy/curved jeans, drape (how fabric hangs/holds shape) is as important as the pattern.

• Indigo & ring-dye behavior: many warp yarns are dyed so the surface holds color and the core is lighter → abrasion reveals lighter tones over time.
  
  

Common terms:

• インディゴ (indigo): indigo dye
  
  

• ロープ染色 (rōpu senshoku): rope dyeing (classic deep indigo; fade potential)
  
  

• 天然藍 / 本藍 (tennen-ai / hon-ai): natural indigo (often subtler/complex tone)
  
  

• 硫化染め (ryūka-zome): sulfur dye (common for black denim)
  
  

Practical notes:

• Dark indigo/black can have 色移り (iro-utsuri) = color transfer/crocking (dye rubbing off), especially early.
  
  

Selvedge（セルビッジ serubijji / 赤耳 aka-mimi）

• A self-finished edge, often from shuttle looms（シャトル織機）.
  
  

• In fashion terms: it’s a craft signal, not automatically “better-looking.”
  
  

Twill directions

• 右綾 (migi-aya) right-hand twill
  
  

• 左綾 (hidari-aya) left-hand twill
  
  

• ブロークンツイル (burōkun tsuiru) broken twill (reduces leg twist tendencies)
  
  

Practical note:

• Twill direction can influence surface feel and fade “mood,” but wash/finishing often dominate the fashion outcome.

Texture vocabulary

• スラブ (surabu): slub (uneven yarn; streaky texture)
  
  

• ネップ (neppu): nep (small flecks)
  
  

• 毛羽立ち (kebadachi): fuzz/hairiness on the surface
  
  

• ムラ糸 (mura-ito): irregular yarn
  
  

• 低張力 (tei-chōryoku): low-tension weave (often more “alive,” irregular texture)
  
  

Cotton origin sometimes mentioned

• “Zimbabwe cotton” etc. are often used as feel/marketing shorthand; always judge by hand.
  
  

Practical effect:

• Texture + fuzz level strongly affects drape and how “rich” the fabric looks from a distance.

This turns knowledge into repeatable buying decisions.

• Weight / oz（オンス onsu）: fabric weight in ounces per square yard. Heavier = more structure (often warmer); lighter = more drape (often cooler).
  
  

• Composition: 100% cotton vs blends.
  
  

• Stretch (ストレッチ): elastane content; affects comfort.
  
  

• Recovery: how well stretch snaps back (poor recovery = knees/seat bag out).
  
  

• Weft color: white vs ecru (生成り kinari) changes tone warmth.
  
  

• Density / tightness (feel-based): tight weaves feel smoother and hold shape; looser weaves feel airy and textured.
  
  

Tokyo styling hint:

• Wide/curved silhouettes often look best in fabric with enough structure to hold the shape.

8A) Dimensional finishing (shrink control / stability)

• サンフォライズ / 防縮 (sanforaizu / bōshuku): sanforized (pre-shrunk)
  
  

• 未防縮 (mi-bōshuku): unsanforized (shrink-to-fit potential)
  
  

• 縮率 (shukuritsu): shrink rate %
  
  

Finishes that affect surface & drape:

• 毛焼き (kebayaki): singeing (burn fuzz → cleaner surface)
  
  

• カレンダー加工 (karendā kakō): calendaring (pressed smoother surface)
  
  

• スキュー加工 (sukyū kakō): skewing (helps reduce leg twist)
  
  

• Starch/sizing: factory stiffness; rinsing reduces it.
  
  

8B) Garment washing & processing (appearance + handfeel)

Umbrella terms:

• 製品洗い (seihin-arai): garment-washed
  
  

• 加工 (kakō): processing
  
  

• 風合い (fuai): handfeel/drape
  
  

Common types:

• リンス / ワンウォッシュ: rinse/one-wash (clean, dark, adult)
  
  

• ユーズド: used wash (pre-worn look)
  
  

• ストーンウォッシュ: stone wash (softer, faded)
  
  

• ブリーチ: bleach wash (light, statement)
  
  

• ケミカルウォッシュ: chemical wash (marbled)
  
  

• オーバーダイ: overdye (new color cast)
  
  

• コーティング: coating (surface film)
  
  

• ダメージ / クラッシュ: distress/rips
  
  

Durability note:

• Aggressive bleach/distress/sanding can reduce strength—inspect carefully.

9A) Closure & waist hardware

• Button fly（ボタンフライ）: buttons; heritage vibe, sturdy feel.
  
  

• Zip fly（ジッパーフライ）: zipper; convenience, often cleaner-modern.
  
  

• Donut button（ドーナツボタン）: ring-style top button seen in repro/workwear.
  
  

• Belt loops: check reinforcement at roots.
  
  

9B) Stitching systems & seam engineering

• Lockstitch（ロックステッチ）: “locked” stitch; stable.
  
  

• Chain stitch（チェーンステッチ）: looped chain underside; flexible; common for hems.
  
  

• Roping（ローピング）: wavy hem fading/texture often linked to chain-stitched hems after washing.
  
  

• Single stitch hem（シングルステッチ）: usually single-needle lockstitch hem; cleaner, typically less roping.
  
  

• Felled/lap seam（巻き縫い maki-nui）: folded seam; strong and tidy interior.
  
  

• Overlock（オーバーロック）: edge-finish stitch to prevent fraying.
  
  

9C) Reinforcement & stress points

• Bar tack（カン止め）: dense reinforcement stitches (pocket corners, fly base, belt loops).
  
  

• Rivet（リベット）: metal reinforcement.
  
  

• Hidden rivet（隠しリベット）: hidden reinforcement, common in repro jeans.
  
  

• Pocket bags: strong pocketing matters a lot for durability.
  
  

9D) Pockets, patches, labels

• Back pocket design: minimal = easier “adult” styling; loud arcs/logos = street/casual identity.
  
  

• Leather patch（革パッチ）: patinas over time; classic signal.
  
  

• Paper patch（紙パッチ）: vintage-like; can fade/fray/disappear.
  
  

• Tab/label（タブ）: small brand identifier; subtle tabs read cleaner.
  
  

9E) Shaping structure

• Yoke（ヨーク）: V back panel; affects seat fit and drape.
  
  

• Waistband construction: stiffness affects comfort and waist rolling.
  
  

9F) Vintage-repro (heritage) details (common in Japanese denim culture)

• Cinch back（シンチバック）: back strap adjuster.
  
  

• Suspender buttons（サスペンダーボタン）: for suspenders.
  
  

• Period pocket shapes: historically accurate pocket geometry.
  
  

What’s “Japanese” here:

• Many Japanese brands emphasize meticulous seam work, reinforcement, and heritage-accurate details, plus a strong hemming culture.

10A) Core silhouettes

• ワイド (wide): wider from thigh to hem
  
  

• バギー (baggy): very roomy overall
  
  

• ストレート (straight): similar width thigh→hem
  
  

• テーパード (tapered): roomy thigh → narrows to hem
  
  

• カーブ / バレル (curved/barrel): bows out then returns in
  
  

• フレア (flare): widens from knee down
  
  

10B) Measurements (shop language)

• 股上 (mata-gami) rise
  
  

• わたり (watari) thigh width
  
  

• 膝幅 (hizahaba) knee width
  
  

• 裾幅 (susohaba) hem opening
  
  

• 股下 (mata-shita) inseam
  
  

• 総丈 (sōtake) outseam
  
  

10C) Top block (waist/hip/seat fit — where jeans succeed or fail)

Top block = the upper pattern area (waist + hips + seat + rise).
Before you judge the leg shape, check:

• seat comfort (no pulling)
  
  

• crotch stress (no harsh strain lines)
  
  

• back rise coverage (does it feel secure)
  
  

• how the pockets sit (too low/high can look odd)
  
  

10D) Drape decision (especially wide/curved)

• Structured drape: holds silhouette; looks sculpted.
  
  

• Fluid drape: softer; looks relaxed.

• 裾上げ (susō-age) hemming (shorten and resew hem)
  
  

• 丈詰め (take-tsume) shortening (same idea)
  
  

• ロールアップ / 折り返し cuffing
  
  

Hem stitch choices:

• チェーンステッチ chain-stitch hem (can rope)
  
  

• シングルステッチ single-stitch hem (cleaner)
  
  

Tokyo rule:

• Avoid “accidental” lengths. Choose: clean break, deliberate cuff, or designed crop.

Clean break（クリーンなブレイク / kurīn na bureiku）

• The hem just touches the shoe and makes one neat fold/crease at the front (minimal stacking/wrinkles).
  
  

• Looks adult, tidy, “trousers-like.”
  
  

• Works best with straight / tapered / wide-straight and loafers/derbies/clean sneakers.
  
  

Deliberate cuff（意図的なロールアップ / itotekina rōruappu）

• A planned roll-up (usually 1–2 folds) so the cuff looks even and intentional.
  
  

• Often used to show selvedge (赤耳 aka-mimi).
  
  

• Gives a casual, denim-nerd / workwear vibe; also helps control length on wide/baggy jeans.
  
  

Designed crop（計算されたクロップ / keisan sareta kuropu）

• The jeans are cut/hemmed shorter on purpose, so you see ankle or socks (not “too short by mistake”).
  
  

• Feels modern and fashion-forward, especially with barrel/curved or flare when you want the shape to “float.”
  
  

• Best paired with statement shoes (boots, chunky loafers) or interesting socks.

12A) Proportion rules

• Balance volume: wide/baggy/curved bottoms like shorter/boxier or tucked tops.
  
  

• Rise controls styling: higher rise supports tuck; mid-rise suits untucked casual.
  
  

• Hem-to-shoe relationship must be deliberate: break/cuff/crop.
  
  

• Drape is part of styling: structure = sharper; fluid = relaxed.
  
  

12B) Wash & color roles (two-lane wardrobe)

• Lane A (clean): dark rinse/one-wash or black + tonal details → “denim as trousers.”
  
  

• Lane B (character): used/stone/bleach/overdye/textured → denim is the statement.
  
  

12C) Four repeatable Tokyo formulas

• Clean City: dark/black + plain tee/knit + clean shoes
  
  

• City Boy / Ivy Remix: wide straight + oxford/sweat + cap + sneakers/loafers
  
  

• Workwear-lite: mid wash + chore/trucker + boots/chunky shoes
  
  

• Modern Street: curved/barrel/baggy + short jacket/boxy top + chunky footwear
  
  

12D) Mirror checklist (30 seconds)

• Waistline clean?
  
  

• Top block comfortable?
  
  

• Volume balanced?
  
  

• Hem endpoint intentional?
  
  

• Shoes not swallowed?
  
  

• Wash matches role (clean vs character)?

13A) QC checklist

• Stitching even and consistent around fly and pockets?
  
  

• Bar tacks and rivets placed neatly and symmetrically?
  
  

• Pocket bags feel strong?
  
  

• Fabric feels right for silhouette (structure for wide/curved)?
  
  

• Hem looks clean (unless intentional roping/torque)?
  
  

13B) Red flags

• Over-processed distress that already looks fragile
  
  

• Weak pocket bags / loose belt loops
  
  

• Strange pulling at crotch/seat (top block mismatch)
  
  

• Stretch denim with poor recovery (knees bag out quickly)

1. Choose silhouette (wide/curved/tapered etc.).
   
   

2. Confirm top block comfort (waist/hip/seat/rise).
   
   

3. Check drape (structured vs fluid).
   
   

4. Record fabric specs (oz, composition, stretch/recovery, weft tone).
   
   

5. Choose wash role (clean vs character) and inspect durability if heavily processed.
   
   

6. Evaluate construction (fly, seams, reinforcement, pockets/patch).
   
   

7. Decide length endpoint (break/cuff/crop) + hemming stitch choice.
   
   

8. Do the 30-second mirror + QC check before paying.

Japanese Denim Structured Knowledge Map

1) Definitions and scope

What people mean by “Japanese denim” (three different claims):

• Japanese denim fabric = denim cloth woven in Japan (often associated with Okayama/Kojima, but not limited to it).
  
  

• Made-in-Japan garment (MIJ) = jeans cut & sewn in Japan.
  
  

• Japanese brand = the label is Japanese, but production can be global depending on the line.
  
  

Why it matters:

• Select shops may sell “Japanese brand” items that aren’t MIJ. Flagships may emphasize MIJ. You’re buying for silhouette + drape + wash + construction, so it helps to know which claim you’re paying for.
  
  

2) Fabric structure 101 (the technical base)

Denim = twill fabric（綾織 / あやおり aya-ori） built from:

• Warp / 縦糸（たていと tate-ito）: lengthwise yarns (often indigo-dyed); dominant on the face of denim.
  
  

• Weft / 横糸（よこいと yoko-ito）: crosswise yarns (often white/ecru); influences warmth and tone.
  
  

Key takeaway:

• Warp controls most visible color; weft heavily affects handfeel (how it feels) and “vintage warmth.”
  
  

3) Craft chain (how craftsmanship is built)

This explains why two jeans can look similar but feel totally different:

1. Fiber (cotton) selection → softness, fuzz, durability
   
   

2. Spinning (yarn making) → texture and strength
   
   

3. Dyeing → depth, color transfer, fade tone
   
   

4. Weaving setup (loom type/tension/density) → drape + texture
   
   

5. Textile finishing → stability + surface feel
   
   

6. Cutting & sewing → longevity + how the garment hangs
   
   

7. Garment washing/processing → final look + softness + sometimes strength
   
   

Why it matters in Tokyo styling:

• For wide/baggy/curved jeans, drape (how fabric hangs/holds shape) is as important as the pattern.
  
  

4) Dye systems and color behavior

• Indigo & ring-dye behavior: many warp yarns are dyed so the surface holds color and the core is lighter → abrasion reveals lighter tones over time.
  
  

Common terms:

• インディゴ (indigo): indigo dye
  
  

• ロープ染色 (rōpu senshoku): rope dyeing (classic deep indigo; fade potential)
  
  

• 天然藍 / 本藍 (tennen-ai / hon-ai): natural indigo (often subtler/complex tone)
  
  

• 硫化染め (ryūka-zome): sulfur dye (common for black denim)
  
  

Practical notes:

• Dark indigo/black can have 色移り (iro-utsuri) = color transfer/crocking (dye rubbing off), especially early.
  
  

5) Weaving, loom type, and selvedge

Selvedge（セルビッジ serubijji / 赤耳 aka-mimi）

• A self-finished edge, often from shuttle looms（シャトル織機）.
  
  

• In fashion terms: it’s a craft signal, not automatically “better-looking.”
  
  

Twill directions

• 右綾 (migi-aya) right-hand twill
  
  

• 左綾 (hidari-aya) left-hand twill
  
  

• ブロークンツイル (burōkun tsuiru) broken twill (reduces leg twist tendencies)
  
  

Practical note:

• Twill direction can influence surface feel and fade “mood,” but wash/finishing often dominate the fashion outcome.
  
  

6) Yarn character & fabric “hand” (風合い fuai)

Texture vocabulary

• スラブ (surabu): slub (uneven yarn; streaky texture)
  
  

• ネップ (neppu): nep (small flecks)
  
  

• 毛羽立ち (kebadachi): fuzz/hairiness on the surface
  
  

• ムラ糸 (mura-ito): irregular yarn
  
  

• 低張力 (tei-chōryoku): low-tension weave (often more “alive,” irregular texture)
  
  

Cotton origin sometimes mentioned

• “Zimbabwe cotton” etc. are often used as feel/marketing shorthand; always judge by hand.
  
  

Practical effect:

• Texture + fuzz level strongly affects drape and how “rich” the fabric looks from a distance.
  
  

7) Fabric spec sheet (what serious buyers record)

This turns knowledge into repeatable buying decisions.

• Weight / oz（オンス onsu）: fabric weight in ounces per square yard. Heavier = more structure (often warmer); lighter = more drape (often cooler).
  
  

• Composition: 100% cotton vs blends.
  
  

• Stretch (ストレッチ): elastane content; affects comfort.
  
  

• Recovery: how well stretch snaps back (poor recovery = knees/seat bag out).
  
  

• Weft color: white vs ecru (生成り kinari) changes tone warmth.
  
  

• Density / tightness (feel-based): tight weaves feel smoother and hold shape; looser weaves feel airy and textured.
  
  

Tokyo styling hint:

• Wide/curved silhouettes often look best in fabric with enough structure to hold the shape.
  
  

8) Finishing and post-processing

8A) Dimensional finishing (shrink control / stability)

• サンフォライズ / 防縮 (sanforaizu / bōshuku): sanforized (pre-shrunk)
  
  

• 未防縮 (mi-bōshuku): unsanforized (shrink-to-fit potential)
  
  

• 縮率 (shukuritsu): shrink rate %
  
  

Finishes that affect surface & drape:

• 毛焼き (kebayaki): singeing (burn fuzz → cleaner surface)
  
  

• カレンダー加工 (karendā kakō): calendaring (pressed smoother surface)
  
  

• スキュー加工 (sukyū kakō): skewing (helps reduce leg twist)
  
  

• Starch/sizing: factory stiffness; rinsing reduces it.
  
  

8B) Garment washing & processing (appearance + handfeel)

Umbrella terms:

• 製品洗い (seihin-arai): garment-washed
  
  

• 加工 (kakō): processing
  
  

• 風合い (fuai): handfeel/drape
  
  

Common types:

• リンス / ワンウォッシュ: rinse/one-wash (clean, dark, adult)
  
  

• ユーズド: used wash (pre-worn look)
  
  

• ストーンウォッシュ: stone wash (softer, faded)
  
  

• ブリーチ: bleach wash (light, statement)
  
  

• ケミカルウォッシュ: chemical wash (marbled)
  
  

• オーバーダイ: overdye (new color cast)
  
  

• コーティング: coating (surface film)
  
  

• ダメージ / クラッシュ: distress/rips
  
  

Durability note:

• Aggressive bleach/distress/sanding can reduce strength—inspect carefully.
  
  

9) Garment construction details (impression + longevity + Japanese character)

9A) Closure & waist hardware

• Button fly（ボタンフライ）: buttons; heritage vibe, sturdy feel.
  
  

• Zip fly（ジッパーフライ）: zipper; convenience, often cleaner-modern.
  
  

• Donut button（ドーナツボタン）: ring-style top button seen in repro/workwear.
  
  

• Belt loops: check reinforcement at roots.
  
  

9B) Stitching systems & seam engineering

• Lockstitch（ロックステッチ）: “locked” stitch; stable.
  
  

• Chain stitch（チェーンステッチ）: looped chain underside; flexible; common for hems.
  
  

• Roping（ローピング）: wavy hem fading/texture often linked to chain-stitched hems after washing.
  
  

• Single stitch hem（シングルステッチ）: usually single-needle lockstitch hem; cleaner, typically less roping.
  
  

• Felled/lap seam（巻き縫い maki-nui）: folded seam; strong and tidy interior.
  
  

• Overlock（オーバーロック）: edge-finish stitch to prevent fraying.
  
  

9C) Reinforcement & stress points

• Bar tack（カン止め）: dense reinforcement stitches (pocket corners, fly base, belt loops).
  
  

• Rivet（リベット）: metal reinforcement.
  
  

• Hidden rivet（隠しリベット）: hidden reinforcement, common in repro jeans.
  
  

• Pocket bags: strong pocketing matters a lot for durability.
  
  

9D) Pockets, patches, labels

• Back pocket design: minimal = easier “adult” styling; loud arcs/logos = street/casual identity.
  
  

• Leather patch（革パッチ）: patinas over time; classic signal.
  
  

• Paper patch（紙パッチ）: vintage-like; can fade/fray/disappear.
  
  

• Tab/label（タブ）: small brand identifier; subtle tabs read cleaner.
  
  

9E) Shaping structure

• Yoke（ヨーク）: V back panel; affects seat fit and drape.
  
  

• Waistband construction: stiffness affects comfort and waist rolling.
  
  

9F) Vintage-repro (heritage) details (common in Japanese denim culture)

• Cinch back（シンチバック）: back strap adjuster.
  
  

• Suspender buttons（サスペンダーボタン）: for suspenders.
  
  

• Period pocket shapes: historically accurate pocket geometry.
  
  

What’s “Japanese” here:

• Many Japanese brands emphasize meticulous seam work, reinforcement, and heritage-accurate details, plus a strong hemming culture.
  
  

10) Fit & silhouette (シルエット) + “top block” (the serious fit layer)

10A) Core silhouettes

• ワイド (wide): wider from thigh to hem
  
  

• バギー (baggy): very roomy overall
  
  

• ストレート (straight): similar width thigh→hem
  
  

• テーパード (tapered): roomy thigh → narrows to hem
  
  

• カーブ / バレル (curved/barrel): bows out then returns in
  
  

• フレア (flare): widens from knee down
  
  

10B) Measurements (shop language)

• 股上 (mata-gami) rise
  
  

• わたり (watari) thigh width
  
  

• 膝幅 (hizahaba) knee width
  
  

• 裾幅 (susohaba) hem opening
  
  

• 股下 (mata-shita) inseam
  
  

• 総丈 (sōtake) outseam
  
  

10C) Top block (waist/hip/seat fit — where jeans succeed or fail)

Top block = the upper pattern area (waist + hips + seat + rise).
Before you judge the leg shape, check:

• seat comfort (no pulling)
  
  

• crotch stress (no harsh strain lines)
  
  

• back rise coverage (does it feel secure)
  
  

• how the pockets sit (too low/high can look odd)
  
  

10D) Drape decision (especially wide/curved)

• Structured drape: holds silhouette; looks sculpted.
  
  

• Fluid drape: softer; looks relaxed.
  
  

11) Alterations & length (Tokyo silhouette depends on the endpoint)

• 裾上げ (susō-age) hemming (shorten and resew hem)
  
  

• 丈詰め (take-tsume) shortening (same idea)
  
  

• ロールアップ / 折り返し cuffing
  
  

Hem stitch choices:

• チェーンステッチ chain-stitch hem (can rope)
  
  

• シングルステッチ single-stitch hem (cleaner)
  
  

Tokyo rule:

• Avoid “accidental” lengths. Choose: clean break, deliberate cuff, or designed crop.
  
  

12) Styling systems (how Tokyo outfits are built)

12A) Proportion rules

• Balance volume: wide/baggy/curved bottoms like shorter/boxier or tucked tops.
  
  

• Rise controls styling: higher rise supports tuck; mid-rise suits untucked casual.
  
  

• Hem-to-shoe relationship must be deliberate: break/cuff/crop.
  
  

• Drape is part of styling: structure = sharper; fluid = relaxed.
  
  

12B) Wash & color roles (two-lane wardrobe)

• Lane A (clean): dark rinse/one-wash or black + tonal details → “denim as trousers.”
  
  

• Lane B (character): used/stone/bleach/overdye/textured → denim is the statement.
  
  

12C) Four repeatable Tokyo formulas

• Clean City: dark/black + plain tee/knit + clean shoes
  
  

• City Boy / Ivy Remix: wide straight + oxford/sweat + cap + sneakers/loafers
  
  

• Workwear-lite: mid wash + chore/trucker + boots/chunky shoes
  
  

• Modern Street: curved/barrel/baggy + short jacket/boxy top + chunky footwear
  
  

12D) Mirror checklist (30 seconds)

• Waistline clean?
  
  

• Top block comfortable?
  
  

• Volume balanced?
  
  

• Hem endpoint intentional?
  
  

• Shoes not swallowed?
  
  

• Wash matches role (clean vs character)?
  
  

13) Quality control (QC) checklist + red flags (buying like a serious consumer)

13A) QC checklist

• Stitching even and consistent around fly and pockets?
  
  

• Bar tacks and rivets placed neatly and symmetrically?
  
  

• Pocket bags feel strong?
  
  

• Fabric feels right for silhouette (structure for wide/curved)?
  
  

• Hem looks clean (unless intentional roping/torque)?
  
  

13B) Red flags

• Over-processed distress that already looks fragile
  
  

• Weak pocket bags / loose belt loops
  
  

• Strange pulling at crotch/seat (top block mismatch)
  
  

• Stretch denim with poor recovery (knees bag out quickly)
  
  

14) Shopping workflow in Tokyo (repeatable method)

1. Choose silhouette (wide/curved/tapered etc.).
   
   

2. Confirm top block comfort (waist/hip/seat/rise).
   
   

3. Check drape (structured vs fluid).
   
   

4. Record fabric specs (oz, composition, stretch/recovery, weft tone).
   
   

5. Choose wash role (clean vs character) and inspect durability if heavily processed.
   
   

6. Evaluate construction (fly, seams, reinforcement, pockets/patch).
   
   

7. Decide length endpoint (break/cuff/crop) + hemming stitch choice.
   
   

8. Do the 30-second mirror + QC check before paying.

A) Silhouette & fit (18)

• シルエット (shiruetto): silhouette
  
  

• フィット (fitto): fit
  
  

• ワイド (waido): wide
  
  

• バギー (bagī): baggy
  
  

• ルーズ (rūzu): loose
  
  

• ストレート (sutorēto): straight
  
  

• スリム (surimu): slim
  
  

• テーパード (tēpādo): tapered — roomy thigh → narrower hem
  
  

• カーブ (kābu): curve — curved-leg cut
  
  

• カーヴィー (kāvī): curvy — shaped/curved silhouette
  
  

• バレルレッグ (bareru reggu): barrel-leg — rounded, then narrows
  
  

• フレア (furēa): flare — wider at hem
  
  

• ブーツカット (būtsu katto): bootcut — subtle flare for boots
  
  

• スキニー (sukinī): skinny — very narrow
  
  

• ハイウエスト (hai-uesuto): high waist
  
  

• ミッドライズ (middo raizu): mid-rise
  
  

• ローライズ (rōraizu): low-rise
  
  

• ジャスト (jasuto): “just right” fit — staff may say this
  
  

B) Measurements & pattern anatomy (16)

• サイズ (saizu): size
  
  

• 股上 (mata-gami): rise
  
  

• 前股上 (mae-mata-gami): front rise
  
  

• 後股上 (ushiro-mata-gami): back rise
  
  

• 股下 (mata-shita): inseam
  
  

• 総丈 (sōtake): total length/outseam
  
  

• わたり / ワタリ (watari): thigh width
  
  

• 膝幅 (hizahaba): knee width
  
  

• 裾幅 (susohaba): hem opening width
  
  

• ヒップ (hippu): hip
  
  

• ウエスト (uesuto): waist
  
  

• ベルトループ (beruto rūpu): belt loops
  
  

• ヨーク (yōku): yoke — V panel at back waist
  
  

• 股 (mata): crotch area (general)
  
  

• 立体裁断 (rittai saidan): 3D patterning — often for curved cuts
  
  

• パターン (patān): pattern (garment pattern)
  
  

C) Wash, finish, and color (18)

• 色 (iro): color
  
  

• 濃紺 (nōkon): deep/dark indigo
  
  

• インディゴ (indigo): indigo
  
  

• ブラックデニム (burakku denimu): black denim
  
  

• グレーデニム (gurē denimu): grey denim
  
  

• 生成り (kinari): ecru/natural (undyed)
  
  

• リンス (rinsu): rinse wash — clean look
  
  

• ワンウォッシュ (wan wosshu): one-wash — pre-rinsed
  
  

• ユーズド (yūzudo): used wash — vintage effect
  
  

• ウォッシュ (wosshu): wash (general)
  
  

• ストーンウォッシュ (sutōn wosshu): stone wash
  
  

• ブリーチ (burīchi): bleach wash
  
  

• オーバーダイ (ōbādai): overdye — dye over an existing color
  
  

• フェード (fēdo): fade (general)
  
  

• 色落ち (iro-ochi): fading
  
  

• 色移り (iro-utsuri): color transfer/bleeding
  
  

• ダメージ (damēji): distressed/damage
  
  

• クラッシュ (kurasshu): heavy distress/rips (fashion term)
  
  

D) Fabric & weave terms (14)

• デニム (denimu): denim
  
  

• セルビッジ / セルヴィッジ (serubijji / seruvijji): selvedge
  
  

• 赤耳 (aka-mimi): “red selvedge ID”
  
  

• 耳付き (mimi-tsuki): with selvedge edge
  
  

• ツイル (tsuiru): twill
  
  

• 右綾 (migi-aya): right-hand twill
  
  

• 左綾 (hidari-aya): left-hand twill
  
  

• ブロークンツイル (burōkun tsuiru): broken twill
  
  

• ストレッチ (sutoretchi): stretch (elastic blend)
  
  

• コットン (kotton): cotton
  
  

• オンス (onsu): ounces (fabric weight, oz)
  
  

• スラブ (surabu): slub — uneven yarn texture
  
  

• ネップ (neppu): nep — flecks
  
  

• 毛羽立ち (kebadachi): hairy/fuzzy surface
  
  

E) Construction & details (10)

• ステッチ (sutecchi): stitching
  
  

• 配色ステッチ (haishoku sutecchi): contrast stitching
  
  

• 同色ステッチ (dōshoku sutecchi): tonal stitching
  
  

• リベット (ribetto): rivet
  
  

• ボタンフライ (botan furai): button fly
  
  

• ジッパーフライ (jippā furai): zipper fly
  
  

• ポケット (poketto): pocket
  
  

• バックポケット (bakku poketto): back pocket
  
  

• パッチ (pacchi): patch (leather/paper brand patch)
  
  

• タグ (tagu): tag/label
  
  

F) Hemming, alterations, care (10)

• 裾 (suso): hem area
  
  

• 裾上げ (susō-age): hemming (shortening)
  
  

• 丈詰め (take-tsume): shorten length (same idea)
  
  

• ロールアップ (rōru appu): cuff/roll-up
  
  

• 折り返し (orikaeshi): fold-back cuff
  
  

• チェーンステッチ (chēn sutecchi): chain-stitch hem
  
  

• シングルステッチ (shinguru sutecchi): single-stitch hem
  
  

• 洗濯 (sentaku): washing
  
  

• 裏返して洗う (uragaeshite arau): wash inside-out
  
  

• 陰干し (kageboshi): dry in shade
  
  

G) Shopping phrases you’ll actually use (8)

• 試着してもいいですか？ (shichaku shite mo ii desu ka?): Can I try it on?
  
  

• このモデルのサイズ感は？ (kono moderu no saizukan wa?): How does this model fit?
  
  

• カーブ（バレル）のシルエットを探しています。 (kābu (bareru) no shiruetto o sagashite imasu.): I’m looking for curved/barrel silhouette.
  
  

• 股上は高めがいいです。 (mata-gami wa takame ga ii desu.): I prefer higher rise.
  
  

• わたりと裾幅を教えてください。 (watari to susohaba o oshiete kudasai.): Please tell me thigh and hem width.
  
  

• 裾上げできますか？ (susō-age dekimasu ka?): Can you hem it?
  
  

• 在庫ありますか？ (zaiko arimasu ka?): Do you have it in stock?
  
  

• 免税できますか？ (menzei dekimasu ka?): Can I do tax-free?

Trying on & sizing

1. 試着してもいいですか？
   Shichaku shite mo ii desu ka?
   “May I try these on?”
   
   

2. このモデルのサイズ感はどんな感じですか？
   Kono moderu no saizu-kan wa donna kanji desu ka?
   “How does this model fit (true to size / runs big/small)?”
   
   

3. 普段◯◯サイズなんですが、どのサイズがおすすめですか？
   Fudan ___ saizu nan desu ga, dono saizu ga osusume desu ka?
   “I usually wear size ___. What size do you recommend?”
   
   

4. ウエストは履いているうちに伸びますか？
   Uesuto wa haite iru uchi ni nobimasu ka?
   “Will the waist stretch with wear?”
   
   

5. このデニム、ストレッチ入ってますか？
   Kono denimu, sutoretchi haitte masu ka?
   “Does this denim have stretch in it?”
   
   

Fit / silhouette (great for Tokyo trend cuts)

6. ワイド（／カーブ／バレル）のシルエットを探しています。ありますか？
   Waido (/ kābu / bareru) no shiruetto o sagashite imasu. Arimasu ka?
   “I’m looking for a wide (/ curved / barrel) silhouette. Do you have any?”
   
   

7. 股上が高め（or 普通 / 浅め）のものがいいです。
   Mata-gami ga takame (or futsū / asame) no mono ga ii desu.
   “I prefer a higher (or regular / lower) rise.”
   
   

8. もう少し太もも周りに余裕がほしいです。
   Mō sukoshi futomomo-mawari ni yoyū ga hoshii desu.
   “I’d like a bit more room around the thighs.”
   
   

9. 裾幅がもう少し細い（or 太い）ほうが好みです。
   Susohaba ga mō sukoshi hosoi (or futoi) hō ga konomi desu.
   “I prefer a slightly narrower (or wider) hem opening.”
   
   

10. このパンツのわたりと裾幅を教えてください。
    Kono pantsu no watari to susohaba o oshiete kudasai.
    “Could you tell me the thigh width and hem width?”
    
    

Length & hemming (very common in Japan)

11. 裾上げできますか？
    Susō-age dekimasu ka?
    “Can you hem these?”
    
    

12. チェーンステッチで裾上げできますか？
    Chēn-sutecchi de susō-age dekimasu ka?
    “Can you hem them with a chain stitch?”
    
    

13. 当日仕上げできますか？それとも何日かかりますか？
    Tōjitsu shiage dekimasu ka? Soretomo nan-nichi kakarimasu ka?
    “Can it be done the same day, or how many days does it take?”
    
    

14. 裾はたるませる感じ（フルレングス）で履きたいです。長さはどうしますか？
    Suso wa tarumaseru kanji (furu rengusu) de hakitai desu. Nagasa wa dō shimasu ka?
    “I want to wear them full-length (with some break/stack). What length should we do?”
    
    

15. ロールアップして履くのもありですか？
    Rōru appu shite haku no mo ari desu ka?
    “Is it okay / does it work to cuff them?”
    
    

Wash / color (fashion denim shopping)

16. これはワンウォッシュ（or リンス）ですか？
    Kore wa wan wosshu (or rinsu) desu ka?
    “Is this one-wash (or rinse)?”
    
    

17. この色（濃紺／ブラック）はどれくらい色落ちしますか？
    Kono iro (nōkon / burakku) wa dore kurai iro-ochi shimasu ka?
    “How much will this color (dark indigo/black) fade?”
    
    

18. 色移りしやすいですか？
    Iro-utsuri shiyasui desu ka?
    “Does it transfer dye easily?”
    
    

Stock, tax-free, returns

19. この色／サイズ、在庫ありますか？
    Kono iro / saizu, zaiko arimasu ka?
    “Do you have this color/size in stock?”
    
    

20. 免税できますか？
    Menzei dekimasu ka?
    “Can I do tax-free?”
    
    

21. 返品・交換はできますか？（裾上げした場合は？）
    Henpin / kōkan wa dekimasu ka? (Susō-age shita baai wa?)
    “Can I return/exchange it (and if it’s been hemmed)?”

In Tokyo, what you do have are a few denim clusters (neighborhoods where denim stores concentrate):

1) Harajuku / Omotesando / Aoyama (Cat Street area)

This is the most “denim-pilgrimage” feeling part of Tokyo.

• Japan Blue Jeans Shibuya (Jingumae / Cat Street)
  
  

• Momotaro Jeans Aoyama (Aoyama/Omotesando area)
  
  

• Studio d’Artisan (Harajuku)
  
  

• The Real McCoy’s (Harajuku)
  
  

2) Ueno / Okachimachi (Ameyoko)

A dense shopping zone under/near the tracks—great for multi-brand denim browsing.

• Hinoya in Ameyoko (between Ueno and Okachimachi stations)
  
  

• Japan Blue Jeans Ueno (official Tokyo store listing)
  
  

3) Ebisu / Daikanyama

More “grown-up” neighborhood vibe, with heritage/craft-focused shops.

• Warehouse Ebisu, Kapital Ebisu, Evisu (Daikanyama)

6 head-to-toe looks that feel very “Tokyo menswear right now”: relaxed volume, clean layering, and either sharp shoes or sporty tech shoes to “finish” the silhouette. (That refined-volume idea shows up a lot in current denim trend coverage, especially wide-leg + tailored details/crease, and in the popularity of muted, floaty Japanese labels like ssstein/Auralee/A.PRESSE.)

ワイド (wide) — “clean volume, adult”

• Head: black knit beanie or plain cap
  
  

• Outer: short boxy work jacket (cotton twill) or cropped leather blouson
  
  

• Top: light-blue oxford or striped shirt (half-tuck or full tuck)
  
  

• Accessories: slim leather belt, small silver ring, canvas tote
  
  

• Shoes: sleek black loafers or plain derbies (keeps wide legs looking intentional)
  
  

バギー (baggy) — “street + tech”

• Head: cap + simple sunglasses
  
  

• Outer: nylon shell / light padded jacket
  
  

• Top: oversized sweatshirt or hoodie + long tee hem peeking out
  
  

• Bag: compact crossbody (hands-free, Tokyo practical)
  
  

• Shoes: chunky running shoes (ASICS/New Balance vibe) or pointed-toe boots for contrast (a common styling trick with baggy fits).
  
  

ストレート (straight) — “Tokyo smart casual”

• Head: no hat or a simple beret/cap
  
  

• Outer: relaxed blazer (soft shoulder)
  
  

• Top: fine-gauge knit or mockneck (neutral)
  
  

• Accessories: leather belt, minimal watch
  
  

• Shoes: black leather derbies or side-zip boots
  
  

• Works especially well with dark, clean denim when you want “jeans that behave like trousers.”
  
  

テーパード (tapered) — “military-prep”

• Head: cap or watch cap
  
  

• Outer: M-65/field jacket or short duffle/coverall jacket
  
  

• Top: white tee + cardigan, or OCBD + knit vest
  
  

• Accessories: striped socks (peek at the ankle), canvas tote
  
  

• Shoes: Wallabee-style suede shoes or low-profile sneakers
  
  

• The taper already “sharpens” the leg, so you can keep the upper half slightly roomy.
  
  

カーブ / バレル (curved/barrel) — “sculptural minimal”

• Head: knit beanie
  
  

• Outer: cropped jacket (denim jacket / short bomber) to keep proportions clean
  
  

• Top: tucked tee or tucked shirt (or a short/boxy knit)
  
  

• Accessories: belt is important here (defines waist so the curve reads designed, not sloppy)
  
  

• Shoes: simple leather sneakers or chunky loafers
  
  

• Barrel is a big silhouette story in men’s denim lately, so “clean top + defined waist” is the easiest modern Tokyo way to wear it.
  
  

フレア (flare) — “modern 70s”

• Head: no hat or slim beanie
  
  

• Outer: leather jacket / short coat
  
  

• Top: fitted rib knit or tucked tee (top should be cleaner, not huge)
  
  

• Accessories: slim belt, understated chain
  
  

• Shoes: heeled boots or sharp-toe shoes (flare + sharp shoe looks longer and more current)
  
  

• Flare continues to cycle through trend reports, especially in wider-bottom versions.