Technical Training - What is Fit
Frank Lomax - 25th November 2000
A Definition of Fit?
The Manner in which a garment adopts the shape of the body over which it is placed – Comfort Factors.
The Ease between the garment and the body taking into account the intended under garments during wear – Sizing Factors.
The expectation of Fabric Reaction related to Fit. – Styling Factors.
Factors effecting Comfort in Upper Garments – Drafts
Balances
Length of Front Vs. Back – Vertical Balance.
Width of Back Vs. Front – Lateral Balance.
Angles
Garment Vs. Body Shoulder – Padding.
Neck Point to Centre Front & Centre Back – Closeness.
Darting
Shaped around the Torso Vs. Looseness from the Shoulder.
Seaming
Multiple Seams Shaping to the Body Vs. Styling Only.
Armholes
Small Vs. Large.
Exact Vs. Safe.
Elegance Vs. Movement.
Narrow Vs. Broad.
High Vs. Deep.
Sleeves
Straight Vs. Curved.
Narrow Vs. Wide.
Long Vs. Short.
Styling Effects which can Confuse Fit
Blouse Bigger than Jacket – Jacket Bigger than Coat.
Under Garment Sleeves longer than Outer Garment.
Blouse Neck Falling Backward Vs. Jacket Neck Forward.
Low Armhole inside a High Armhole.
Large Cuff inside a Small Cuff.
Relationship of Upper Garment to Lower Garment.
Factors Effecting Comfort in Lower Garments – Draft
Balances
Front Vs. Back – (Skirt Vertical) (Trouser Vertical & Lateral).
Width of Back Vs. Width of Front (Skirt & Trouser – Lateral).
Hip Vs Stride (Trousers – Lateral).
Waist to Waist through the Fork Point (Trousers Vertical & Lateral).
Angles
Waist Line to Side Seam – Front & Back (Skirts & Trousers).
Waist to Maximum Hip – Front & Back Side Seams (Skirts & Trousers).
Waist to Maximum Hip – Centre Front & Centre Back (Trousers).
Inseam Vs. Out-seam – Maximum Hip & Fork Point to Ankle (Trousers).
Darting.
Shaped to Body Line or Located for Styling.
Darts Vs. Seam Shapes & Location.
Seaming.
Body Shaped or Simple Lines for Styling.
Waistline Shape.
Located to Body Waist or Lowered / Raised for Style.
Natural to Body Line – Straight or Curved
Parallel to Ground or Angled for Style.
Hang or Swing.
Vertical, Tip to Front or Tip to Back..
Clean Front Leg or Clean Back Leg Priority.
Styling Effects which can Confuse Fit.
Low Rise on a Bigger Waist (Skirt Lifts – Hip too big) (Trouser Lifts – Cross Fork now too high).
Garment Rise is lower than the Body Rise (Bunches when Sitting) (Crotch Seam Chafes Legs).
Short Back Rise is Clean when Standing – Back Waist stands off of the body when Sitting.
Too many different Shape Characteristics in the same range (High Waist - Dropped Waist – Straight Waist – Curved Waist).
Hip of Skirt / Trouser bigger than the Jacket Hip.
Factors Effecting Sizing Garments – Blocks.
Definition of the body to be fitted – The Body Measurements.
Definition of the Garment Type to be constructed – (‘T’ Shirt / Dress / Jacket / Coat) – (Panty / Body Fit / Loose Fit).
Minimum Dimensions to be achieved within a Garment Type – (Close Fit / Loose Fit).
Effect of Ease or Tolerance on Finished Dimensions.
Effect of Fabric Types on achieving Dimensions.
Consistency of Applying Ease or Tolerance – by Proportion or Percentage.
Neck To Neck or Armhole to Armhole Correlation – (Blouse to Jacket) – (Jacket to Coat).
Understanding and Accommodating the Body Rise.
Prerequisites for Controlling Fit.
Know and Believe in the Body Measurements for the Target Customer.
Decide on Specific Target Market Groups – (Everyone) or (Miss & Madam) or (Mum & Daughter) or (WI & Executive) or (Standard & Plus & Petite).
Understand how each Customer Grouping Perceives Fit – How it should ‘Feel’.
Decide the Size Ranges and Buy Into your Belief. – Use the Data Wisely.
Set Out the Product Groupings (Jackets / OverJackets / Coats) (Formal Trousers / Casual Trousers / Jeans).
Set out the Minimum Dimensions for each Product Grouping – (Decide, Agree & Stick to them).
Agree Fabric Types for possible use in each Product Grouping and determine the Maximum & Minimum effect on Sizing. (Specify Process Targets).
Segregate Range Planning into Customer Categories and Control - Don’t Mix the Market Groupings in the same sales area.
Have as many Groups as you can Realistically Manage but make sure they all fit the Target Customer (Miss Jean is different to Mum Jean).
Try and Limit the Design Related Fit Characteristics in each Customer Grouping.
Benefits of Using ‘Block Patterns’ to Control Fit.
Establish the Comfort Elements within each Block.
Define the Expectation of ‘Ease Over the Body’& of Fabric Action and Control.
Blocks provide a Consistent Basis for Comfort and Sizing.
They Control the Effect of Styling Fundamentals (Inset Vs. Raglan) (Jean Vs. Trouser)
Control the effect of different Seaming on Fit – Use Multiple Panel Blocks.
Blocks are owned by the Retailer and Used by the Supplier.
Blocks control the Buyer, The Designer and the Manufacturer.
Blocks Control the Manufacturing Fit Standards and Minimise Costs.
Disadvantages of Using Blocks.
The Blocks have to be Correct and of Excellent Fit .
Problems in a Block tend to move from Style to Style.
Ensure that the Size Grading Fits the Customer Group.
Worry about the Accuracy of such as Armscye Width Grading.
Conflicts coming from Manufacturing.
Patterns Constructed and Controlled to Manufacturing Methods (Jigs / Dart Sewers / Press Shapes).
Customers Perception of their Body and Body Size.
Time of the Month.
Girdles & 'Push Up' Bra’s.
Clothing does not Relate to the Body inside.
Body is not Standard but its Good Enough.
How does Stance and Posture effect Fit?