Technical Training - What is Fit

A Definition of Fit?

1. The Manner in which a garment adopts the shape of the body over which it is placed – Comfort Factors.

2. The Ease between the garment and the body taking into account the intended under garments during wear – Sizing Factors.

3. The expectation of Fabric Reaction related to Fit. – Styling Factors.

Factors effecting Comfort in Upper Garments – Drafts

Balances

• Length of Front Vs. Back – Vertical Balance.

• Width of Back Vs. Front – Lateral Balance.

Angles

• Garment Vs. Body Shoulder – Padding.

• Neck Point to Centre Front & Centre Back – Closeness.

Darting

• Shaped around the Torso Vs. Looseness from the Shoulder.

Seaming

• Multiple Seams Shaping to the Body Vs. Styling Only.

Armholes

• Small Vs. Large.

• Exact Vs. Safe.

• Elegance Vs. Movement.

• Narrow Vs. Broad.

• High Vs. Deep.

Sleeves

• Straight Vs. Curved.

• Narrow Vs. Wide.

• Long Vs. Short.

Styling Effects which can Confuse Fit

• Blouse Bigger than Jacket – Jacket Bigger than Coat.

• Under Garment Sleeves longer than Outer Garment.

• Blouse Neck Falling Backward Vs. Jacket Neck Forward.

• Low Armhole inside a High Armhole.

• Large Cuff inside a Small Cuff.

• Relationship of Upper Garment to Lower Garment.

Factors Effecting Comfort in Lower Garments – Draft

Balances

• Front Vs. Back – (Skirt Vertical) (Trouser Vertical & Lateral).

• Width of Back Vs. Width of Front (Skirt & Trouser – Lateral).

• Hip Vs Stride (Trousers – Lateral).

• Waist to Waist through the Fork Point (Trousers Vertical & Lateral).

Angles

• Waist Line to Side Seam – Front & Back (Skirts & Trousers).

• Waist to Maximum Hip – Front & Back Side Seams (Skirts & Trousers).

• Waist to Maximum Hip – Centre Front & Centre Back (Trousers).

• Inseam Vs. Out-seam – Maximum Hip & Fork Point to Ankle (Trousers).

• Darting.

• Shaped to Body Line or Located for Styling.

• Darts Vs. Seam Shapes & Location.

• Seaming.

• Body Shaped or Simple Lines for Styling.

• Waistline Shape.

• Located to Body Waist or Lowered / Raised for Style.

• Natural to Body Line – Straight or Curved

• Parallel to Ground or Angled for Style.

• Hang or Swing.

• Vertical, Tip to Front or Tip to Back..

• Clean Front Leg or Clean Back Leg Priority.

• Styling Effects which can Confuse Fit.

• Low Rise on a Bigger Waist (Skirt Lifts – Hip too big) (Trouser Lifts – Cross Fork now too high).

• Garment Rise is lower than the Body Rise (Bunches when Sitting) (Crotch Seam Chafes Legs).

• Short Back Rise is Clean when Standing – Back Waist stands off of the body when Sitting.

• Too many different Shape Characteristics in the same range (High Waist - Dropped Waist – Straight Waist – Curved Waist).

• Hip of Skirt / Trouser bigger than the Jacket Hip.

• Factors Effecting Sizing Garments – Blocks.

• Definition of the body to be fitted – The Body Measurements.

• Definition of the Garment Type to be constructed – (‘T’ Shirt / Dress / Jacket / Coat) – (Panty / Body Fit / Loose Fit).

• Minimum Dimensions to be achieved within a Garment Type – (Close Fit / Loose Fit).

• Effect of Ease or Tolerance on Finished Dimensions.

• Effect of Fabric Types on achieving Dimensions.

• Consistency of Applying Ease or Tolerance – by Proportion or Percentage.

• Neck To Neck or Armhole to Armhole Correlation – (Blouse to Jacket) – (Jacket to Coat).

• Understanding and Accommodating the Body Rise.

• Prerequisites for Controlling Fit.

• Know and Believe in the Body Measurements for the Target Customer.

• Decide on Specific Target Market Groups – (Everyone) or (Miss & Madam) or (Mum & Daughter) or (WI & Executive) or (Standard & Plus & Petite).

• Understand how each Customer Grouping Perceives Fit – How it should ‘Feel’.

• Decide the Size Ranges and Buy Into your Belief. – Use the Data Wisely.

• Set Out the Product Groupings (Jackets / OverJackets / Coats) (Formal Trousers / Casual Trousers / Jeans).

• Set out the Minimum Dimensions for each Product Grouping – (Decide, Agree & Stick to them).

• Agree Fabric Types for possible use in each Product Grouping and determine the Maximum & Minimum effect on Sizing. (Specify Process Targets).

• Segregate Range Planning into Customer Categories and Control - Don’t Mix the Market Groupings in the same sales area.

• Have as many Groups as you can Realistically Manage but make sure they all fit the Target Customer (Miss Jean is different to Mum Jean).

• Try and Limit the Design Related Fit Characteristics in each Customer Grouping.

• Benefits of Using ‘Block Patterns’ to Control Fit.

• Establish the Comfort Elements within each Block.

• Define the Expectation of ‘Ease Over the Body’& of Fabric Action and Control.

• Blocks provide a Consistent Basis for Comfort and Sizing.

• They Control the Effect of Styling Fundamentals (Inset Vs. Raglan) (Jean Vs. Trouser)

• Control the effect of different Seaming on Fit – Use Multiple Panel Blocks.

• Blocks are owned by the Retailer and Used by the Supplier.

• Blocks control the Buyer, The Designer and the Manufacturer.

• Blocks Control the Manufacturing Fit Standards and Minimise Costs.

• Disadvantages of Using Blocks.

• The Blocks have to be Correct and of Excellent Fit .

• Problems in a Block tend to move from Style to Style.

• Ensure that the Size Grading Fits the Customer Group.

• Worry about the Accuracy of such as Armscye Width Grading.

• Conflicts coming from Manufacturing.

• Patterns Constructed and Controlled to Manufacturing Methods (Jigs / Dart Sewers / Press Shapes).

• Customers Perception of their Body and Body Size.

• Time of the Month.

• Girdles & 'Push Up' Bra’s.

• Clothing does not Relate to the Body inside.

• Body is not Standard but its Good Enough.

• How does Stance and Posture effect Fit?