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Shorts with Pleats at Back and Front
The most fashionable shorts are cut with knife or inverted pleats at back and front to give a semblance to a very short pleated skirt. These pleats may be set in from a hip yoke or from a waistband; in either case, the principles are identical in construction.
The measurements for the draft are as follows—
Waist = 26 inches.
Hips = 37 inches.
Body rise = 11½ inches.
Side-seam length = 18 inches.
Leg length, calculated by subtracting the body-rise length from the side-seam length = 9 inches.
Working scale = half the hips measure = 18½ inches.
To draft—
Square from X.
1 from X = the body rise plus one seam = 11¾ inches.
2 from X = the side-seam length plus one seam = 18¼ inches.
3 from X = 8 inches down for the hip level.
Square out from the above points.
4 from 1 = one-fourth of the hip measure plus ½ inch for seams.
Square up from 4 to 5 equal to the distance from X to 1.
Measure out from 5 to 6 one-fourth of the waist measurement plus ½ inch for two seams. 7 from 6 = ¾ inch for the front waist dart.
Shape the waist seam from 7 to a point ½ inch below 5.
8 from 4 = ½ inch. Join 8 to 5 and then extend down to the hem level.
From the line drawn from 5 to 8, square out from 8 to 9 one-sixth of the scale plus ½ inch.
Square out from 3 to 10.
11 from 8 = one-sixth of the scale plus ¼ inch for the centre front line.
Square down from 11 to 12 equal to the distance from 1 to 2 on the side-seam.
Square down from 9 to 13 equal to the distance from 11 to 12.
14 from 12 = 12 to 13.
Shape the hem line from 13 to 12 and 14.
15 from 5 = one-sixth of the scale plus ¾ inch for the position of the front waist dart and first pleat.
16 and 17 from 15 = the front waist dart quantity indicated from 6 to 7.
18 from 15 for the front dart length = 4 inches.
Connect 18 with points 11 and 12.
This completes the draft of the front of the shorts and additional pleating lines may be marked in at will as is illustrated by the dash lines.
THE UNDERSIDES
To continue—
20 squared out from 9 = 2½ inches for the back fork and ease allowance.
21 is squared out from 13 equal to the distance from 9 to 20.
Shape the back seat seam from 1½ inches above 10 on the centre back line to 20, allowing ¾ inch between the front and back fork lines.
22 is located at the same point as on the fronts, ½ inch below point 5.
23 on the waist line = one-fourth of the waist measure plus 2 inches for two ½-inch seams and 1½ inches for the back waist dart.
Measure up the hips from 10 to 3 and then apply this quantity from 10 to 24 equal to half the hip measurement plus 2 inches for ease and four ¼-inch seams.
25 from 14 = the distance from 3 to 24.
Shape down the side-seam from 23 to 24 and 25 and then join 25 to 14, 19, 13 and 21 for the hem line.
26 from 22 = 4 inches for the position of the back waist dart and first pleat.
27 from 10 = the distance from 22 to 26 plus ¼ inch for the position of the pleat line.
28 and 29 from 26 = 1½ inches, the dart quantity indicated by the allowances made from 22 to 23.
Shape out the back waist dart from 28 and 29 to 30, 4½ inches below point 26 on the line joining 26 to 27.
Extend downwards from 26 and 27 to 31 on the hem line for the pleating line.
This completes the drafting of the undersides of the shorts and the following drafts will illustrate the method adopted for allowing for pleats of various types from the basis pattern.
Allowing for the Pleats (Fig. 204)
Allowing for the Pleats (Fig. 204)
The general principles of pleat allowances in shorts are as follows—
Cut through from 22 to 19 at the bottom edge. Fig. 204 illustrates the procedure.
Allow 6 inches for the front inverted pleat from 22 to 22A and from 19 to 19A as shown, and then divide the distances from 22 to 22A and 19 to 19A by half to find points 19B and 22B and to mark the inside crease line of the inverted pleat.
The centre front pleat should be sewn down to a point level with the fork line to achieve a completely divided skirt appearance, and then should be stitched on each side of the centre front seam to keep the pleat in position and give a "finish" to the fronts.
The front side inverted pleat is inserted from 16 and 17 to 18 and 12 by opening out the pattern and inserting 5 to 6 inches of extra cloth as required by the width of the pleat.
The dart from 16 and 17 to 18 and 18A should be machined out and then the pleat halved to form the invert, and the two edges of the pleat from 16 to 18 and from 17 to 18A should be sewn out from the inside downwards for a distance of 8 inches.
After the pleat has been divided into halves at the back, it should be secured on the outside by stitching through on each side of the seams to the same distance down as the inside has been stitched.
The Undersides Pleat Allowances (Fig. 205)
The Undersides Pleat Allowances (Fig. 205)
Cut through the pattern from 22 to 19 and then allow 6 inches from 22 to 22A and from 19 to 19A for the centre back inverted pleat.
Mark the centre crease line of the pleat from 19B to 22B as illustrated.
Cut through the pattern from 28 and 29 to 27 and 31 and then allow 6 niches from 27 to 27A and from 31 to 31A for the side back inverted pleat.
Find the centre of the distance from 28 to 29 to locate point 28B.
27B is located midway between 27 and 27A and 31B is located at midway between 31 and 31A for the centre of the side inverted pleat.
It is always advisable to carry the pleats at centre and side all the way up to the waistband as this gives far greater support to the pleat and prevents the inside edges of the pleat dropping below the level of the hem line.
This completes the method of allowing for the pleats, and similarly any additional pleats may be added to the shorts in positions where desired.
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