Twisted Fabric Evaluation and Spreading Procedure

Purpose of this Procedure

To install procedures which guarantee that Owned Factories or Contractors do not Spread and / or Cut fabric with twist in the spread plies or cut garment pieces.

Prevent any Garments ever being manufactured again with Twisted Panels

Scope

On Receipt of Bulk Fabric:

• • Prevent Twisted Fabric EVER being cut into Garment Panels

  • Fabric Inspection procedures are to be used for evaluation

  • Inspection levels (to 100%) will be as needed to establish Degrees of Twist, where evident.

  • Inspection Information to be recorded and used for agreeing Accept / Reject criteria.

  • Discussion between Fabric & Garment Technologists must be used to determine the action plan.

  • Mandate the Spreading Method, the Lay Type and Depth needed to guarantee ZERO TWIST in finished garments.

When and Where

All Tailoring Manufacturing Sites.

- Prior to the intention to Feed On the Cuting Plans for a new style

All Fabric Inspection Areas

- Before making available to Plan and Issue to Cut any new batches of a twisted fabric.

All Cut Planning Process Management

- Before Assuming the normal Fabric Spreading Capacity will be achieved

All Factory Cutting Rooms

- Before assigning table space and spreading resource to any particular Twisted Fabric.

Responsible for Decision Making

• • On Site - The Fabric Technical Exec / Manager

  • On Site - The Garment Technical Exec / Manager

  • On Site - The Cut Planning Department Manager

  • On Site - The Cutting Room Production Manager

Fabric Inspection Basic Processes.

• • Inspect the rolls of fabric and lining to the Percentage (%) agreed in the company Fabric Inspection Procedures.

  • Evaluate the level of twist evident in the Inspection Lot.

  • Increase the Inspection Percentage to 100% where significant twist has been found.

  • Segregate rolls of Straight Grain Fabric from Twisted Fabric.

  • Agree to Reject or to Spread the Twisted Fabric.

  • Rejected fabric is not to be spread under any circumstances.

Cutting Room Practice & Processes.

• • Determine a Spreading method for both straight fabric and for Twisted fabric, which will GUARANTEE that the Fabric spread will produce garment panels which are free from twist and are to the Garment Pattern shape.

  • If Machine Spreading is used, Tension Free, Absolutely Straight Spreading will be the only acceptable standard.

  • If Machine Spreading cannot achieve the acceptable standard then Hand Spreading MUST be used.

  • For either Spreading method, the Lay Length must be limited to that which will guarantee Absolutely Straight Spreading.

  • Fabric Lays, which are too long, will allow twist, straightened at the beginning of a ply, to reform further down the lay.

  • In extreme conditions, single size lays may be needed.

  • Panel Inspection of the cut work of ANY TWISTED FABRIC cut is mandatory, to ensure that both the spreading and cutting method is effective and the standard is being maintained.