10. Pyjamas Draft

Pyjamas

Figs. 221 (a) and (b) show the drafting of two varieties of pyjamas. The first draft illustrates pyjamas cut without a side-seam on the crease of the material and loose-fitting at the waist, elastic being relied on to draw the surplus material to the figure.

This style of pyjama is made without a side-seam opening, so that the waist must be sufficiently large to enable the garment to pass over the hip line.

The second draft is cut on modern pyjama lines. The waist is fitted by small darts at the front and back, and a side-seam with an opening makes possible more shape in the legs.

Measures for Fig. 221 (a) are as follows—

• Waist = 28 inches.

• Hips = 40 inches.

• Body-rise length = 12 inches.

• Inside leg length = 29 inches.

• Knee width = 24 inches.

• Bottom width = 26 to 28 inches.

• Working scale = half the hip measure = 20 inches.

Fig. 221 (a)

To draft—

Square from X.

• 1 from X = 8 inches down for the hip level.

• 2 from X = the body-rise length = 12 inches.

• 3 from 2 = the inside leg length = 29 inches.

• The position of the knee on the draft is located at 4, half the inside leg length plus 2 inches up from 3.

• Square out from the above points.

• 5 from 2 = one-fourth of the hip measure plus 1 inch.

• Square up from 5 to 6 and 7 on the lines squared out from 1 and X.

• 8 from 5 = one-sixth of the scale plus ½ inch.

• Shape the front fork run from 8 to 7 as indicated.

• 9 from 4 = one-half of the knee width less ½ inch.

• 10 from 3 = half the bottom width less ½ inch.

• Shape the inside leg seam from 8 to 9 and 10 to complete the draft of the topsides.

THE UNDERSIDES

• 11 = half of 5 to 8.

• 12 from 5 = one-fourth of the waist measure.

• Line the seat angle through from 11 to 12 and 13 2 inches above the waist line.

• 14 from 8 = 2½ inches. Shape the seat-seam run from 13 through 12 to 14 as shown.

• Shape the back waist seam from X to 13.

• 15 from 9 = 1 inch for seams and to make up the knee width.

• 16 from 10 = 1 inch for seams and to make up the bottom width.

• Shape the inside leg seam from 14 to 15 and 16.

• Shape the bottom-edge run from 3 to 10 and 16, adding ½ inch of round to complete the draft.

Fig. 221 (b)

Measures are as for Fig. 221 (a).

To draft—

Square from X.

• 1 from X = the hip level = 8 inches down from the waist.

• 2 from X = the body-rise length = 12 inches.

• 3 from 2 = the inside leg seam length = 29 inches.

• The position of the knee is located at 4, half the leg length plus 2 inches up from 3.

• Square out from 2 to 5 one-fourth of the hip measure plus ½ inch.

• Square up from 5 to 6 and 7 on the lines squared out from 1 and X.

• 8 from 7 = one-fourth of the waist measure plus ½ inch for seams.

• 9 from 8 = 1½ inches for two ¾-inch front waist darts.

• 10 from 7 = one-sixth of the scale for the position of the first dart.

• 11 from 10 = 1½ inches for the position of the second dart.

• Shape out the darts at 10 and 11 as shown.

• 12 from 5 = one-sixth of the scale plus ½ inch.

• Shape the fork run from 12 to 7.

• 13 from 4 = ½ inch.

• 14 from 3 = 1 inch.

• Shape the side-seam from 9 to 1, 2, 13 and 14.

• 15 from 13 = half the knee width measure.

• 16 from 14 = half the bottom width measure.

• Shape the inside leg seam from 12 to 15 and 16.

This completes the drafting of the topsides.

THE UNDERSIDES

• 17 is midway of 5 to 12.

• 18 from 5 = one-fourth of the waist measure.

• Line the seat angle through from 17 to 18 and up to 19.

• 19 from the waist line = 2 inches.

• 20 from 19 = one-fourth of the waist measure plus 2 inches for seams and two back waist darts.

• 21 from 20 = one-sixth of the scale for the position of the first waist dart.

• 22 from 21 = 1½ inches for the position of the second waist dart.

• Shape out each dart, as shown, 5 ½ inches in length.

• Measure from 1 to 6 on the topsides and apply this quantity from 18 diagonally to 23, making the total distance half the hip measure plus 2 inches.

• 24 from 13 = ½ inch.

• 25 from 14 = ½ inch.

• Shape the side-seam from 20 to 23, 24 and 25.

• 26 from 12 = the back fork quantity of 2½ inches.

• Shape the seat seam from 19 to 18 and 26 as shown.

• Measure up the full knee width from 13 to 15, and apply this quantity plus 1 inch for seams from 24 to 27.

• Measure up the full bottom width from 14 to 16, and apply this quantity plus 1 inch for seams from 25 to 28.

• Shape the inside leg seam from 26 to 27 and 28.

• Shape the bottom edge from 25 and 14 to 16 and 28, adding ½ inch of round.

This completes the pyjama draft.