Fabric Movement During Manufacturing Processes

Average Fabric Process Shrinkage and Regain of Overcoat Fabric.

Garment Technologists and Pattern Makers have to be aware of Fabric Movement and Final Shrinkage during the processes that they will be subjecting the fabric to during Garment or Product Manufacture

This Interesting Chart indicated how different fabrics react during the following processes.

1. After Cutting the Panels

2. After Applying Fusible Interlinings to the fabric.

3. Before 1st Intermediate Pressing.

4. After 1st Intermediate Pressing.

5. Before Final Pressing.

6. After Final Pressing.

7. After 56 hours in Final Garment Store.

8. After 100 Hours at a controlled temperature.

Graphs are shown for each of the Four Fabrics Warp Direction (Solid Line) and Weft Direction (Dotted Line).

During an actual Manufacturing Process, Where Garment Panels have been subjected to the addition of large areas of Fusing, such as the Fronts, and Precise Shapes, such as Collars and Pocket Parts, it is good practice to 'Fine Cut' the Panel Shapes after the Fusing and Regain processes have been completed.

It needs to be noted that the quality of Process Steam being used in a particular factory will vary the shrinkage and regain conditions. (i.e. Low Pressure 'Wet Steam' or High Pressure 'Dry Steam').

It has also been found with some over coating fabrics that have high moisture content, when delivered, that the high temperatures used during the Fusing Process will create 'Steam' which lowers the Fusing Temperature, rendering the Bonding properties of the Resin Glue to be substandard, causing delamination either later in the manufacturing process or in subsequent dry cleaning.

Some manufactures will utilise 'Steaming' or 'Conditioning' machines to relax their fabric before cutting. This type of process will add moisture to the fabric and even if allowed to 'Regain' during the subsequent 24 hours in Roll or in Cuttle Form, moisture will be trapped which must be compensated for during manufacture.

It should also be noted that the Purchased Yards or Meters of Fabric will reduce through the shrinkage within this process.

A more positive 'Controlled Process' for fabrics such as fine woolens and worsted is 'Decatising' where the Shrinkage can be removed to a precise standard.

This is achieved using the Decatising Machine, which traps the Fabric Tightly between Two Layers of Heavy Canvas Fabric ( or One Layer and a Large Drum as with the machine below) to prevent any Warp or Weft Linear Shrinkage. Only the Individual Fibers Shrink in their cross section.

This process, however, will reduce the Thickness of the Fabric and will leave a consistent and permanent 'Sheen' over the fabric surface.