Technical Designer / Garment Technologist -

Role Requirements

I have presented my own list down below which is not necessary the essential list but the one I used when creating my last Garment Technologist Skills Matrix.

It was amazing how many of these skills that Experienced Technologists acquire over time. There are skills that your company may need that I have not included which can be added and some you do not need. When I last operated in China, I found myself getting involved in the most basic checks and specifying.

More importantly, as you ask the question, it begs an understanding of the complete organisation into which this Technical Designer / Garment Technologist needs to fit. To establish this basic requirement I will assume that your organisation and Skills Requirement still needs to be determined.

Mapping Out the Product Development Organisation.

The Business Structure Chart/s. This is the Corporate Chart containing the Role, by Job Title, of everyone in the business, linked to their Superiors and Subordinates. However, before determining the Business Structure it is better to first define the Ideal Process Flow and Content :

Product Management Process. Is that Process which the said Structure Members are expected to be managing on a day to day basis.

The first step is to define the whole Product Development Process by listing every single activity that the business must under go to get a New Product from Concept to Customer. The resulting document is referred to as a :

Product Activity Chain. This listing process is normally conducted involving the whole organisation an needs to incorporate every control document used during the Product Development part of the business and the Document Producer/Owner and its various Essential Recipients. The first document found listed is likely to be a :

Seasonal Critical Path, often issued by the Business Planning Manager, listing all of the Critical Dates to be achieved to arrive at the Seasonal Launch Date and the many Critical Dates and Activities needed to get there. These Seasonal Plans are normally produced using historical experience. Once the Product Activity Listing is complete, through a series of meetings where everyone in the process has made there input, it is now possible to convert the list into a clear to view 'Gant Chart' form of :

Process Critical Path, linking each activity to the 'Set Time Lapse Allowed' to achieve a Product Launch and Range Launch on time. During the building of this document it should become clear Who Does What / Needs To Do What, by Department. This realisation will allow the formation of a :

List of Departmental Responsibilities. All of the activities that must be completed before a Product under Development can move forward. Activities which, if missed or incomplete will cause delay. It may also identify unnecessary duplication which may be eliminated / combined. Now it should be becoming clear which roles should appear in a :

Departmental Structure Chart. In most organisations it would be for the Departmental Manager to fight for their budget in terms of people resources to manage the processes in their area. Part of the justification would be to define each individuals role and this document will become the basis for each individuals:

Job Description and Title. It is the Job Description which should include a list all of the skills required to do that job on time and to the expected quality standard. An extension of a Job Description, linking it back to the Product Activity Chain and the Receiving and Supplying of Information, may also be the creation of an:

Internal Customer Compact. These Compacts are used to clearly define where each individual role should expect to receive their information and instructions from. The document then lists the person/s to whom the job output must be sent.

For instance, say, a Design Team will be working at least a half season ahead of the Product Development & Manufacturing Teams therefore it is essential to have received all of their completed outputs on time.

Technical Design / Garment Technologists. roles are likely to be facing both the Manufacturing Entity and the Retail Customer. Therefore the Customer Compact will need to be extended to cover the role expectation when operating in both of those areas.

A Clear Role Definition at this stage should avoid conflict during day to day operations.

All of these documents, once defined, ought then to be used to Formulate a Full Organisational Skills Matrix and Training Plan for use during any Succession Planning.

My Skills Needed to become a Technical Designer / Garment Technologist

Craft Skills

Measuring the Body and Understanding Stance and Balance.

Base Pattern Drafting from Measurements

Draping & Toile

Sample Cutting & Marking Up.

Craft Tailoring and Pressing with and without steam supply.

Manufacturing Materials Knowledge

Basic Fabric Technology

Understanding Fabric Manufacturing Methods

Materials Testing, Processes and Corporate Standards

Understanding Fabric Shrinking / Relaxing and Conditioning Processes

Dealing with Fabric Movement during Manufacture (Stretch/shrink/bow/skew)

Knowledge of Garment After Care Processes and Labeling.

Knowledge of Manufacturing Processes, Owned and/or Contractor.

Understanding Interlinings & Fusibles

Selecting Interlinings for Fabric Compatibility

Fusibles Available for Garment Engineering

Knowledge of Fusible Testing Standards and Equipment

Work Organisation Methods in the Fusing Department

Understanding Interlining Suppliers Sampling and Testing Services

Pattern Cutting and Engineering.

Knowledge of and Setting Critical Measurement Locations

Establishing and Using Body Measurements

Style Pattern Manipulation and Fit Correction.

Working from Block Patterns

Creating Location Templates for Manufacturing Application & Control

Finished Garment Measurements and Ease over the Body

Understanding of Pattern Grading Systems and Methods

Designing Grade Rule Tables and Master Measurement Charts

Using Seam & Hem Types, their Choice, Suitability and Application.

Designing of and Use of Trimmings and Components.

Pattern Grain Line Application for Cutting, Use and Effect.

Knowledge of Computer Based Pattern Generating Systems.

Compilation of Garment Measurement Charts incorporating Grading Increments.

Factory Cutting Room Organisation.

Understanding Cut Planning Processes for Order Optimisation

Knowledge of Cutting Lay Marker Making Systems

Using Lay Marker Making for Step Lays.

Fabric Spreading Methods and Application for Optimisation without Shade Risk.

Fabric Cutting Direction Policy and Rule Setting.

Fabric Damage Handling Methods and Policy (Ultra Violet Marking)

Pattern Matching Rules and Practises

Fabric Cutting Methods and Rule Setting.

Garment Size / Bundle and Shade Control.

Cut Piece Auditing Systems.

Materials Utilisation Controls and Setting Extras & Rejects Policy

Knowledge of Cad Cam Systems in use in Modern Cutting rooms.

Industrial Garment Making.

Knowledge of Method Study and Work Measurement

Ability to Write, Read and Check an Operation Specification

Ability to Design and Organise a Production Team.

Basic Machining Ability and Seam Type Technology.

Basic Sewing Thread Technology

Understanding Sewing Machine Needle Types and Uses.

Standard Seam Formations and their uses

Knowledge of Industrial Sewing Machinery.

Knowledge of Specialised Sewing Machinery

Knowledge of Controlled and Automated Sewing Machinery

Knowledge of Machine Parts Sets and Functions and their uses.

Use and Setting of Sewing Control Systems and Guides.

Understanding Basic Machine Maintainance.

Garment Pressing

Knowledge of Ironing Machines, Iron Types and Accessories.

Knowledge of Steam Pressing Machinery and its Fitness for Purpose.

Process Control Mechanisms is use and Knowledge of Programming.

Knowledge of Press Covering Materials and their Uses.

Understanding the Quality of Steam (Wet or Dry Steam).

The Effectiveness of Spraying with Essential use of De Ionised Water.

Knowledge of Pressing Table and Machine Buck Shapes and their Suitability.

Processing Laundered in Process Garments.

Knowledge of Dry Cleaning Systems and Effects.

Storage and Packing

Understanding Appropriate Storage and Packaging Systems (Flat, Hanging,Vacuum).

Knowledge of Appropriate Packaging Equipment

Understanding Appropriate Transportation Systems and Box & Container Limits for Quality (such as Flat Pack & Hanging on Strings Limits).

Product Specifications and Quality Control Systems.

Ability to Write a Pattern Grading Specification and Auditing Process.

Ability to Write a Product Operation / Training Specification with Diagrams.

Ability to Write a Quality Auditing Specification and Check List.

Knowledge and Application of Quality Control Auditing Systems (AQL / SPC etc.).

Some Knowledge of Factory Services

Understanding Boiler Houses with their Steam Raising, Vacuum and Compressed Air Systems with minimum pressures and moisture control.

Understanding Steam Pipework, Effective Trapping and Condensate Return Systems.

Understanding Good Workplace Lighting and Safe Machine Electrical Connection & Earthing.

Knowledge of Health & Safety Requirements in All Departments.