Preamble
This guide is intended to help any Temporary Garment Technologists find their way through the Austin Reed/Viyella Garment Fitting sessions and the Writing Up of the Fit Comments afterwards.
The Process is made more difficult because the previous Garment Technologist did not keep Lever Arch Files with individual plastic envelopes containing Printed Off specs. They are left on the desk in bulldog clips.
Without these records, is it not possible to take the comments from a previous fit session with you to the current fit session.
Regarding the General QC / Garment Technical Standards, they will be no lower than that for the market where Austin Reed / Viyella competes
( Jaeger / Windsmore / Aquascutum / Burburry / Max Mara etc )
The selection of suppliers reflects the manufacturing standard expected.
To aid the process there are minimum construction standards for Viyella Tailoring & Knitwear available as a guide.
The previous technologist has put a lot of work and information into each specification making your role more difficult than it probably needs to have been or to be.
Some manufacturers may need more information than others?
During my time in the role I did not have the opportunity to establish the minimum information needed on a specification and who in the process (manufacturer or warehouse) need what.
The Kiss principal should be followed (keep it simple stupid) allowing most of the time to be used for the assessment and control functions.
There is an issue with the structure of the specifications when it comes to making changes to parts of the sheets.
The grade rules are one area where changes cannot be made without corrupting the formula and I could not find out why this is.
If you need to make changes the best method is to insert and extra line and re write your new description and grade formula and then delete the old line.
Dragging and dropping files seem to be blocked as well.
Better to Copy the file and Paste it in the new location before changing its file name etc and then delete the one in the original location. It works that way.
Where the Specifications are Stored
Computer based Style Specs. are filed by Season and Supplier Company Name on Individual File Server Drive Sectors, one Drive for Viyella and one for Austin Reed.
These Drive Names need to be identified for you by the Buying Teams or the IT department and access provided on your computer terminal. (London 120' (L) = Austin Reed) (London 120' (V) = Viyella ) (Kirstie, will you correct these drive names for me please!).
In each Drive is a Folder called - Austin Reed Womenswear QC or Viyella Womenswear QC
In these Folders are Sub Folders for each Season i.e. AW09 etc
In each Season (AW10) are a set of Folders, each with the name of each Supplier (Buxton Pickles) used in that season.
In each Suppliers Folder are listed all of the individual Style Files for that Supplier– one File for each Style being made by them. Note! - The Viyella File Names differ in structure to the Austin Reed ones.
There is an additional Folder called 'NicolaFranks' which you may need to access.
In this Folder is stored the results of a Project for Nichola Hayward – a set of files containing Block Measurements being used for sending to suppliers for use in AW10 developments.
This folder is not stored in either the Austin Reed or the Viyella server drives.
In the main stack of folders there is one called 'Common ???'.
Click on that folder and NicholaFranks is a sub folder there.
(Check with Viyella Design Assistant Claire Higgs if you need it – She knows where it is located)
Where files for new styles have been created and no supplier or brand has been identified yet, (Viyella or Austin Reed) then I have left the file in the intended Season below the list of Supplier Names.
You may find them in either the Austin Reed or the Viyella season list.
You will need to look in both areas if you are searching for any of these.
If you need to move a style from Austin Reed to Viyella then again use the copy and paste function. You will then need to delete the company logo from the top of each page and then copy the new one from and existing spec and past it in.
Accessing and Using the Style Files
I have found the best way to access the files is to work through Windows Explorer. If you have not used it, then go to the 'start' box and then 'Programs' and then 'Accessories' and then 'Windows Explorer'. Right Click on Widows Explorer and create a Shortcut Icon to have on your Desktop.
Left Click on Windows Explorer to open it.
The Folder Tree will appear down the left hand side of your screen showing what is available to you.
Click on the '+' signs and the sub folders will open up. You can leave the trees open allowing you to see all the styles on the system. You can search for files easier using this method. You can close trees by clicking on the '-' sign.
Double Click on the Style File you need to open.
Each File has a number of pages with tabs along the bottom.
I suggest that you print off a set of pages from a fully completed file (SS08) and study the content.
The header information typed onto the 1st Fit page should transfer automatically onto all of the other pages (Check that this works – if not then you will need to copy and paste it onto each individual sheet).
The Measurement Position Information on the left hand side is manually copied from page to page. Any changes to the Measurement Description needs to be amended on each sheet.
On the Graded Measurements Sheet, the Graded Increments must conform to the Garment Measurement in that row.
The required Garment Size measurement need to be typed or copied & pasted into the Graded Sheet.
The Comments need to be typed in in UPPER CASE.
Any Photos taken during the Fit Session also need to be pasted onto the sheet (Claire Higgs can help).
After updating a spec. the sheets need to be dated, saved and then printed off before being e mailed to the supplier.
Where there is no Existing Specification.
Somewhere on the system, there are stored blank specs for each product type. I could not find them.
I created any new specs needed by copying and re naming existing specs. And then changing the headers and all of the other details.
The Garment then needs to be measured to establish the Target / Required Measurements.
You will find that many Development Fit specs. contain NO Measurements due to the heavy workload of the previous Technologist. None were put in.
Graded Specs Sheets, however, all contain required measurements.
People involved in the Buying & Fitting Procedures
Nicola Haywood – Designer – attends most fitting session as lead decision maker
Claire – House Model (Viyella Size 10 – Austin Reed Size 12)
Various Members of the Buying Teams
Garment Technologist
The Main Processes used During the Product Assessment Operation
Work to do before a Fit Session (where Time is available)
1. Establish the Garments to be fitted
A clear List of ‘Samples to be Fitted' is needed from the Buying Team.
Establish where the garments to be fitted this week are.
Each Garment should have been delivered from the supplier along with a Measurement Chart. Obtain Chart from the Buying Team if not on the garment to be fitted.
If no chart exists then one will have to be printed from the spec. and used to record the measurements taken.
These charts should be clipped to the back of a copy of the updated spec. and filed.
Identify the File Name or Number for each sample to be fitted from the swing tickets on the garments or from the measurement charts attached.
If no number exists then the Buying Team should provide one for you.
The previous Technologist stored files by Supplier and used the following file names / structures:
A. Reed - Season - Style Number - Purchase Order Number (Supplier No.)- Desc.
SS10 - 0370111001 - P.O. 12345 (BPJ1234) - L. Sleeve etc.
Viyella - Season - Group - Style Number - Purchase Order Number - Description
SS10 - Group 3 - VJ0034 - P.O. 12345 or xxxxx - S. Sleeve etc.
2. Measure the Garment (before the fit session if there is time)
Use the suppliers Measurements and Measurement Chart if supplied when recording the garment measurements.
(or if you have time, take a copy of the previous Sample Chart and use one of the columns when recording the sample measurements by hand as you take each measure) (date and initial the measured column on this chart).
These pages should always be attached to the back of the completed fit comments and filed for future reference.
3. Taking the Measurements and Recording Them.
- Measure each garment Following the How to Measure diagrams and write all of the measurements, with variances written in the next column, on the chart, before the fit session, if there is sufficient time otherwise after the fit session.
- If the style is new and no file exists for speed, print a blank chart until there is time to set up a new file (see note -Where there is no Existing File).
4. Place the Information File on the Garment’s Hanger Hook (work towards eventually)
- Hang each File containing the Fit Comments and Measurement Spec into its plastic wallet, with last comments visible on one side and the measurement chart visible on the other side.
- Hang the correct File onto the new garment to be fitted. The supplier may have also returned the previous sample for comparison during the new fitting.
5. Getting Ready to Attend a Fit Meeting
- One of the Buying Team will state which day and time the Fit Session / sessions take place each week and if any Suppliers Reps are attending.
- Prepare for the fit session with all of the samples placed on a separate wheeled garment rail.
- Have the Fit Comments note book ready in which one of the Buying Team should record the Fit Comments made during the meeting for you leaving you to concentrate on working with the Designer. Make sure they write the Supplier, Season, Style Number etc. so that you can link the notes to the samples when writing up the comments.
- Take a Tape Measure, a Box of Pins for use in fitting and a Digital Camera used to photograph any faults to show to the supplier.
6. During the Fit Session
- The Fitting Team should include the Buyer, the Designer and the Garment Technician.
- Take the previous fit comments (if you have them) from the sample hanger as the Fit Model takes each garment for trying on.
- While waiting, read out any previous comments to remind the Fit Team of the changes requested.
- Study the garment being fitted on the Fit Model and make relevant comments so that the Buyer may record them in your Fit Comments book. Any comments made by other members of the fit team will also be written in the Fit book.
- Where fitting deficiencies exist, ‘Pin out’ any faults on the garment, where necessary, and take landscape digital photographs where it would benefit the manufacturer to have the visual information recorded on his fit comments.
- At the end of the list of fit notes, ask the buyer to record the next stage required (e.g. - Approved as a First Fit, Red Seal or Silver Seal)
7. After the Fit Session
- Go through the rail with the Buyer and sort the garments fitted into a processing priority.
- Re hang each Styles plastic wallet back onto its relevant garment’s hanger hook (Useful to establish that you have all of the files still as the Model may take one into the fitting room and leave it there).
- Be careful not to lose any garments as the Buying & Design Teams have a tendency to take them from your fit rail for other purposes without telling you – Style folders may go missing in these circumstances.
8. Logging onto the Computer and Finding the Files there.
- Switch on the computer via the button on the front of its box located under the worktable
- The first prompt will be to press ‘Ctrl, Alt and Delete keys all at the same time.
- Enter your name – enter your password ‘*******’ in low case.
- On the desktop screen will appear some icons. The first one to double click the cursor on is the Microsoft Outlook icon which will bring up the ‘e mail’ system. The two areas there that you may need to look are the in box where supplier’s queries are usually sent. If any appear there you may need help from the Buying Team for guidance.
- The second area is the ‘Sent Box’ where will be recorded any e mails that you sent. (See Later)
- The second icon to double click the cursor on is the Windows Explorer (2) Icon. This will begin to open access to the File system tree and the Directories.
- Select the file that you need to use.
- If you happen to be dealing with a new style then a new File will be needed.
9. Process Summary.
- Find Sample Garment to Fit
- Establish the Supplier, Season and Style Number or Group and Style Number
- Open the Computer File
10. Recording the Fit Comments on a File in the Computer.
– USE UPPER CASE – Press the Caps Lock Key!
- I found the font size too small – feel free to make it larger.
- Date the sheet, add the Technologist Names and then type in the comments from the Fit Book.
- At the end of the comments add the line:
“Approved as a **** Seal to go to the next stage with the above amendments”.
“Rejected as **** Seal – please resubmit with the above amendments”
- Print a copy of the sheet for the file.
- If a stage is to be repeated by a re submission, then before closing the file make a copy of the comments sheet, re name it and leave it blank ready for the next fit comments ( 2nd Silver Seal).
- On the Spec. Sheet, enter the sample measures taken in the sample measurements column relating to that fit stage.
- In the 'Measurements Required' column for the next stage, enter the new measurements required, ready for instructing the supplier. Unless there has been any decision made in the fit meeting to increase or decrease a measurement then these measurements should be the same as last time.
- Any uncertain measures are entered as a 'tbc' until the next sample is received and measured again.
- Print a copy of the comments sheet for the file.
- Any New Styles which have Target Measurements on the chart submitted by the Supplier, these can be entered into the ‘Measurements Required’ and compared with your measurements. You will then need to decide what measurements to use as the ‘Measurements Required’ for the next stage.
If the Designer or Buyer refers to a garment needing to fit as a style in a previous season then find its file and Print Off a copy of its measurement chart and re type in the measurements in the next ‘Measurements Required’ column of your chart.
It is essential to do this as some old charts have their measurements listed in a different order and some descriptions may be different.
WARNING! – The grading increments must apply to any new description used otherwise you would have to write a new set of grade rules for that new description
WARNING! – any additional rows inserted into the sample spec. must be replicated in the same location on the Graded Spec. and a set of appropriate Grade Rules added.
If any Measurements have been changed then update the Graded Spec Sheet and then
Print a copy of the Grade sheet to add to the updated file.
E mail a copy of the Updated Specification to the designated Assistant Buyer who will then forward a copy to the supplier. The e mail should carry a simple note announcing the status resulting from the Fit Assessment. (e.g. Silver Seal Approval Comments)
The Assistant Buyer or Buying Assistant will then be prompted to update the Critical Path progress record.
Note! - Any information put into these e mails which is not already in the fit comments will not be visible to the next person using the comments file and therefore they would only have part of the communication. Writing extra comments on e mails therefore should be avoided.
Write out a Seal Tag(s) of the appropriate colour and approval and attach to the garment through the brand label in the back of the garment or the back neck hanger loop, if one exists (No Tags are to hang on the Outside of the Garment).
At Pre Delivery Approval - Gold Seal Stage, there are two garments to apply seal tags to. The Office Copy and the Warehouse QC copy.
One Garment (Size V10/AR12) has its bag removed and is used for assessment. The other Warehouse QC Garment ( Size 16) Seal Tag must be put inside of the closed, unpacked, undisturbed plastic bag.
Staple together the Printed, Office Copies of the specification along with any papers from the Supplier and place them all in the plastic wallet for that style and put the wallet back into a Newly Created Lever Arch file segregated by Supplier and sorted in the correct Numerical File sequence.
Process Summary
Update Comments onto the Computer File
E mail comments to Assistant Buyers
Print Out the Comments and New Measurement Charts, Staple together with Suppliers Charts (if provided) and put into appropriate Group File.
Return File to its Storage Position.
Sealing Stages
- Design Stages - Development White Seal (1st Fit)
- Development Stage - Red Seal (2nd Fit)
- Production Stage - Silver Seal ( 1st Silver / 2nd Silver)
- Pre Delivery Stage - Gold Seal (1st Gold)
11. Gold Seal Comments and Writing Up a Seal Tags
Gold Seal Samples All Approved
OK to Ship
AW09
Style Number
P.O. Number
Date
12. Processing Styles where Petite Sizes have been bought.
A Petite Style is treated as a separate style
There is a set of reductions that have to be made to a Standard Fit Garment to create a Petite Fit.
It is recommended that you examine styles from previous seasons to check what these reductions are and if they are correct.
Some suppliers who have been making petites for some time prepare their own charts and deliver these charts with the 1st Fit sample for you to use.
However, Setting up a Petite file is still needed and is a good way of checking that the supplier has used / achieved the correct fit result.
Please Check with The Buying Team the Correct Increments suggested below and update this list – The previous Technologist altered these 'Old Viyella' increments to the Austin Reed Petite increments without discussing it with the Designer and Buyer.
- On Jackets, Dresses< Blouses and Coats change the Waist Position from center back neck by subtracting 2cm ( 39cm becomes 37cm)
- On the centre back length subtract the amount shown for the length of the garment (Long lengths have 5cm subtracted and short lengths have 3.5cm subtracted.)
- The sleeve length has 3cm subtracted for a long sleeve and 2cm for a short sleeve
- The front and back armholes have 0.75cm subtracted
- On Trouser Inside leg lengths subtract 5.75cm
- On Outside Legs subtract 6cm from the length
- The Front and Back Trouser Rises have 0.75cm subtracted
- On Skirt Lengths subtract 5cm on mid length skirts and 7cm on long length skirts
- If a Skirt Thigh measurement position is given then subtract 2cm from that position down
- Items such as button spacing may change depending on the style and the supplier – once a Petite Silver Seal garment has been assessed the measurement charts can be updated to whatever is approved.
There is a full set of 'Alteration Diagrams' for the Old Viyella Petite System available.
There is also a full set of 'How to Measure Diagrams' for each garment type available.
Frank Lomax 09.10.2009