12. Basic Skirt Draft

Basic Skirt Draft

Fig. 355 illustrates the skirt basis draft. This draft is very simplified in outline and will serve as an efficient block pattern for the designing and cutting of all styles of skirts.

Measurements for the draft are as follows—

• Waist = 26 inches.

• Hips = 37 inches.

• Full length = 27 inches, or to present fashion.

Commence from point X.

• 1 from X = 8 inches down for the hip level.

• Square out from 1 to 2, one-fourth of the hip measurement plus ¼ inch.

• Square up from 2 to 3 equal to X to 1.

• 4 from X = one-fourth of the waist measurement plus ¾ inch for the front waist dart.

• Square down from 2 to 5, making the length from 4 to 2 and 5 equal to the side skirt length plus one seam for the turning-in of the waist.

• 6 from 5 = 1½ inches. Shape the side-seam from 4 through 2 down to 6.

• 7 from X = ½ inch.

• 8 from 7 = the full length of the skirt.

• Shape the hem from 8 to 6 through 5.

This completes the draft of the front of the skirt block pattern.

THE BACK SKIRT DRAFT

Commence from point 12 at the centre back waist.

• 13 from 12 = 8 inches down for the hip level.

• 4 from 13 = one-fourth of the hip measurement plus ¼ inch.

• The hip measurement has now in effect had 1 inch added for ease.

• 15 from 12 = one-fourth of the waist measurement plus 1½ inches added for the standard back waist dart quantity.

• 16 from 12 = ½ inch. Shape the waist seam from 16 to 15.

• 17 from 12 = 4 inches for the position of the back waist dart centre.

• 18 from 17 = ¾ inch.

• 19 from 17 = ¾ inch.

• Shape out the back waist dart from 18 and 19 down to 20, making the dart 6 inches in length.

• 21 is squared down from 14 and is equal to the side-seam length plus a seam from 15 measured through 14.

• 22 from 21 = 1½ inches. Shape the side-seam from 21 up to 14 and 15 as shown.

• 23 from 16 = the full skirt length.

• Shape the hem line from 23 through 21 to 22.

This completes the draft of the skirt block pattern, and when cutting from the material an inlay should be added down each side-seam and 2 or 3 inches hem as required.