GENERAL SEAMING

• • All seams ideally should be stitched or linked within a wale, unless restricted by shaping.

  • Any Blind stitching or felling used should be secure at start and the finish and not be visible on the face of the garment.

  • Welt and / or Cuff attachment should be level across any seam joins.

  • Neck bands or binding joins should be positioned 2cm behind the shoulder seam (LHSAW) unless restricted by styling.

  • Collar seams should be stitched straight & not stretched.

  • Corners of sleeve heads should be turned in & as rounded as possible.

  • Ensure stitch tensions are correct – there should be sufficient extensibility in all seams to avoid any restriction of movement or discomfort.

  • All seaming ends to be trimmed back to a max. length of 1cm (before wet finishing) & 5mm (after wet finish / for steam only products).

  • Stolling should be evenly distributed & should not cause any dragging.

  • Overlock seams must have sufficient cover so that they do not become frayed after finishing / customer washing.

  • Ends should be secured with bar tacks for maximum security.

  • Shoulder seams must not peak – sleeve head should be straight.

TRIMS / COMPONENTS

• • All seaming threads must match the body fabric (where self yarn not used).

  • Shoulder tape must also match body fabric (if buying from a shade card, the closest colour must be selected & submitted to the Product Developer for approval).

  • Buttonholes should have the facility to add gimp if required to avoid stretching.

  • Buttons should be attached with sufficient shank to open & close the garment easily without distorting the buttonhole.

  • Hanger loops should be attached to all garments that need additional security on the hanger, i.e. wide slash necks, wrap cardigans, etc.

  • Acrylic piece dyed garments should use Vogue 60’s 100% Acrylic thread ex Lawson & Johnson to ensure comparable dye uptake.

NECK / CUFF FINISH

• • Bind off ends must be secured by either lockstitch or hand stitch – not sufficient to crochet ends back through neckline.

  • V-necks with bind off edge should be reinforced with a cross over stitch at the base of the V.

  • Polo necks / turn back cuffs – direction of seam to be reversed so that not visible on right side of garment.

    • PRESSING & PRESENTATION

  • Garment must not be over pressed, creating a flattened appearance, glazing or sharp creases.

  • Neck shapes must be pressed symmetrical.

  • Cockling appearance above welts not acceptable (ensure not exacerbated by poor rib to body transfer).

  • Side vents should be pressed level with corners square.

  • Lycra should be added to all set ups for shape retention (including pocket tops).

  • Welts must not pull in at the ends.

  • Tubular welts should not flip up in wear – min. depth 1.5cm to prevent this.

  • If required, foam should be placed inside the garment to avoid impressions / glazing, i.e. down CF to prevent stole impression on back of garment.

EMBROIDERY

• • All embellished garments should carry a spare bead bag.

  • Threads used must be compatible with the fabric and garment aftercare recommendations with all threads ends double knotted for maximum security.

  • Beading should be secured with either a double back stitch after approx. every three beads (this will vary according to the size of the beads) or a knot.

  • Max. float / stitch length 1cm.

  • Individual sequins / beads should be double knotted.

  • Max. thread end length 3mm.

  • Viscose threads should be used by exception.

  • All beads (& embroidery threads) must be tested for colourfastness.

  • When the garment is embroidered or embellished around the entire welt / cuff there must be sufficient extensibility to prevent the stitching cracking and/or beads falling off.

GENERAL

• • Spare buttons should ideally be placed in a small re-sealable poly spare button bag to be placed into the care label using a small swift tack.

  • Back neck labels on all garments should be lock stitched at the top edge in each corner.

  • Stripes must match across side seams, underarm seams & across front / sleeve insertions.

  • General fabric appearance should be level, with no barre or very visible cam lines.

  • Hangers should never be forced through the neckline as this leads to neck breakdown (bind off necks are particularly susceptible to this caused by the excessive force placed on the neckline).

  • Minimum neck stretch is critical – 31cm must be achievable on all neck shapes.