Technical Construction Guidelines

COMPONENTRY & TRIMS SPECIFICATIONS

• All componentry and trims are subject to styling requirements and will vary from season to season.

• All componentry and trims needs to be nickel free and PVC free [including sequins] and be sourced from approved suppliers.

• The use/placement of trims can vary but customer safety must be assessed in terms of risk. If there is a high risk that safety may be compromised then alternatives must to be found.

• Componentry and trim colours need to be approved at the buying stage but should be dyed to match where specified.

LININGS

All linings must compliment the outer fabric of the garment. Lining specifications are as follows:-

• Lining differential : To be a maximum of the shrinkage allowed on a garment fabric specifications +1cm for safety.

• Linings are to have a soft handle as a requirement.

• Armholes are to be finished with a binding of self fabric.

• All linings are to be cut the same way as the garment i.e. Bias cut lining in a bias cut skirts.

• All lining hems are to be narrow and double turned, unless alternatives are agreed.

Leisurewear

All linings should be dyed to match unless they are a minimum quantity in which case they need to one of the following:-

-Black

-White

-Nude

Interlinings

Non woven interlinings are to cover all fusible needs. Occasionally a knitted or woven interlining may be required for a specific product type or fabric range. Non woven interlinings should not be used in washed products especially in exposed areas. Woven or knitted products should be specified.

Shoulder Pads

• Shoulder pads are attached to the shoulder seam by 2 tacks positioned 1cm out from the armhole and forward by 1cm pad to shoulder, or by a tape/lining.

• The shoulder pad is to be white or charcoal depending on garment colour. The covering fabric needs to be a shade taken from the shade card and to be tonal with the outer fabric.

• The pad must pass the black book standard on Formaldehyde.

• Non lined jackets – the shoulder pads must be covered in lining and overlocked, unless otherwise agreed.

ZIPS

• Zip type depends on styling however generally all zippers need to be concealed, either by a guard or using invisible zips.

• Conventional zip constructed the female direction.

• Invisible zip to be used on all side/back fastening garments.

• Zippers used need to be dyed to match.

• All zips are to have a stopper and security tack above the seam closure, to ensure the puller does not break the seam.

• 3cm of zip tape should extended to below the seam opening.

Jeans

• All jeans zippers need to be brass and constructed in the men’s direction.

Zip Security

• Concealed zips inserted in delicate fabrics are prone to fabric breakdown at the base of the zip caused by strain from the zip puller when open therefore. All concealed zips in delicate fabrics must be secured at the base with either:-

• A spot tack or a piece of tape across the zip teeth.

• This is to ‘stop’ the puller before it hits the fabric.

• Concealed zips must run freely, not jam on seams or bulky fabrics. A new zip foot maybe required to allow the fabric to be stitched away from the teeth. (Be aware of lead times).

• Fabrics with surface interest may require topstitching along the zip edge to prevent snagging on the zip.

Buttons

• Buttons are to be lock-stitched on unless the shape of the button does not allow this in which case the buttons are to be overlocked on.

• Suppliers should adhere to the button attach best practices guide set out by the business which details the button pull test and the attachment of jigger buttons.

• Where Shell buttons are being considered, it should be noted that synthetic alternatives should be used (to prevent high returns to manufacturers for cracking and snapping).

• Spare buttons should be attached on the care label or on the date label, making sure that they are not covering any information. The specification is as follows:-

• 1 button wherever more than 1 button is used.

• 2 buttons if the buttons are covered

• 1 button of each size if different sized buttons are used.

• If it is not possible to attach the spare button to the care label, then the button should be attached to the underside of the front facing between the last two buttons.

• Garments with keyhole neck lines are not supplied with a spare button.

• Jacket & Coats

• All buttons are to be whipped to produce a shank so that the button stands proud on the garment.

• Shank buttons should also be whipped unless otherwise agreed at the buying meeting

• It is also recommended that the thread used should be Fusible thread, to prevent the buttons from falling off.

• POPPERS

• Poppers and hooks & eyes to be machine stitched on wherever possible.

• All machine applied poppers, eyelets and tack buttons must come from approved sources (Prym, YKK).

• Data sheets to be submitted, and all M&S procedures to be followed in the factory.

• ELASTIC

• Elastics need to be dyed to match where visible. If not visible use: -

• Black Elastic : Dark colours

• White/Ecru : Light colours

• VELCRO

• Velcro used on pocket openings, or any other openings should have the rough side away from the underneath of the hand for two reasons:-

• To prevent scratching on the sensitive palm of the hand.

• To prevent the Velcro from sticking to other garments, while in the wash or during wear and snagging them.

• Tie and Toggle specifications:

• If toggles are used on a garment it is important that safety procedures are followed, taking the following factors into consideration:-

• The length of the external tie that carries the toggle on a sleeve cuff is no longer than 6cm fully extended. This to prevent the tie from catching fire if a customer leans over a naked flame (such as a candle).

• Tie length at hem/waist or around the hood should be agreed at the design stage.

• The toggle has to be nickel free

• Leisurewear

• The maximum exposed tie lengths is to be no longer than 10cm. No Elastic Cords should be used, as these are dangerous when pulled.

• Foot Ties

• Foot Ties at the hem of the garments should be stitched at the side seam and the length must be assessed. The ties must be 9cm maximum exposed length and must not be in a loop formation.

• BELTS

• Belts are to be measured as worn, the half round measurement taken across the inside edges of material with belt fastened on the third hole from the mitred edge.

• The tolerances have been set as +/- 0.5cm

• All belts are to have 6 eyelets.

• The 6 hole span to be 12.5cm

• The first hole to mitred end of belt

• Half buckle to be 10cm with trapped loop

• Whole buckle to be 8.5cm with free running loop

• EMBROIDERY

• Where embroidery is used on garments the following should be considered:-

• All embroidery must be double knotted, leaving only a 1cm tail which needs to be neatened.

• The grading of the bodice lengths needs to be considered for the repeat of the embroidery.

• The smocking tensions need to be controlled and monitored.

• If washed garments contain embroidery, the marking factor needs to be considered.

• BEADING & EMBELLISHMENT

• Where beading is added to a blouse for decoration the following must be taken in to consideration: -

• Toxicity

• Stitching and security of bead attachment i.e. every 3rd bead must be knotted off to prevent all the rows of beads falling off.

• See best practice guide

• Checks Must be undertaken to test ALL beads for colourfastness as they are notorious poor especially Reds.

• Sewing Threads

• Viscose thread is NOT acceptable.

• Thread should be doubled when hand sewing.

• If Beads are attached to the waist of a garment, then they MUST have sufficient stretch to be compatible with the waist stretch of the garment.

• Spare Beads are required with each garment to be specified at Pre-Production meeting and supplied attached to the garment in a bead bag.

• All hand stitched components (beads, sequins etc) to be reinforced by a double stitch every 2cm of beads to prevent a large number from unravelling if a thread breakage occurs. All thread ends must be double knotted and a thread end of 0.5cm left. No floats on reverse to be greater than 1cm.

• Care instructions of the garment must be discussed at the design stage. If the garment is washable, a garment that has been washed as the care label and not pressed must be submitted at the contract seal stage.

• LABEL POSITION

• All woven corporate label and care label positions are detailed in Appendix VII

• Over – rider position to be on the Left hand side as worn (LHSAW) and in line with the dart or pocket.

• Label reference tbc.

• HANGERS

• Reference tbc.

• HANGER LOOPS

• White hanger loops on light coloured garments and black hanger loops in dark coloured garment.

• Jackets & Coats : tbc

• Trousers & Skirts : Positioned 2cm under the waistband in the side seams.

• Dresses and Tops : Positioned 2cm under armhole in the side seams.

• TOLERANCES

• As main range

• BODY MEASUREMENTS & SIZES

• All garments to be fitted on a size 10 long and graded to a size 16 long

• Size 10 Model – Carrie Mace

• Body Measurements :-

• Bust : 86cm

• Waist : 69cm

• Low Hip : 94cm

• The amount of ease required over the body will vary from garment to garment but will be style dependant

• Leg Lengths

• Short : 72cm

• Medium : 78cm

• Long : 84cm

• The above may vary by 1cm depending on styling and rise position. This will be discussed at the first fit stage.

• JACKET & COATS

• Basic Construction

• Best

• Different sleeve lining to body – Black colourway only. Will be discussed at the Sketch meeting

• Stripe & Check matched

• All parts cut as a pair

• Jet cut on the bias, above flap – on stripes

• Unlined Jackets

• Must have facing

• Must be bound on the back seam or some seam detail i.e. French seam, unless otherwise agreed. All other seams must be tidy.

• Shoulder pads to covered

• Internals

• Fused edges, at bridle on washable garments

• Interlining – woven/knitted on all washable jackets

• Taped Shoulders

• Felled cuffs and hem

• Interlining positioning as main range

• Extra support at collar & lapel where required Stitched lining to armhole. Standard 2cm

• Overlocked seams internally, for transparent linings – outer fabric

• High slippage fabric tape back seam or remove the back seam

• Overlocked lining seams on washable garments

• Reinforced pockets [where necessary]

• All button to be whipped with fusible thread

• COAT

• Loose linings are to be tacked at the hem to anchor the seams

• Functional cuff

• Stretch Lining on fitted jackets, where possible especially on the sleeves

• Lining variation. Will be discussed at the design stage

• FORMAL TROUSERS

• Basic Construction

• Best

• Waistband Details – will be discussed at the sketch stage

• Shaped Waistband, Seam in the CB

• Option 1 : On suit trousers

• Menswear lining

• Option 2 : Stand-a-lone trousers

• Waistband facing to be to be bound – narrow binding 4-5mm, narrow curtain max 1cm

• Grow on Waist : Bound facing and lining at placket

• Shape Placket [where required]

• Different Hook & Bar

• Open seams

• All lined trousers – lining to be bagged out at the zip

• Where overlocking is showing to be condensed 12-14 stitches per inch

• Trouser waistband extensions to have the seam displaced to a point 3cm away from the edge

• Waistband end on the under-wrap is to be curved off slightly to prevent the corner from showing above the waistband.

• Placket to cover base of zip

• Double placket if not lining

• Fastenings

• Hook & Bar : Thomas Walker : Large SMN987 Zinc (N/F) or Small MAS9X876 (Zinc) N/F

• All hook & bar machines must be calibrated as popper standard

• Double fastening at band – i.e. hook & bar + jigger. Unless otherwise stated

• No pinch set jigger buttons

• Security stitch at the zip base

• Zip length to be discussed at 1st fits. Must be graded

• Jigger button – size & colour as main range

• Buttonhole – keyhole for 4 hole button, straight cut for 2 hole, unless otherwise agreed.

• Interlinings

• No non-woven interlining to be used on facings – only stitched reinforced interlining or woven/knitted

• Black/grey on dark colours and white on light colours

• interlining to be used on facings – only stitched reinforced or woven/knitted

• Black on dark colours and White on light colours

• Pockets

• All pocket bags on trousers with quarter angle pockets are to be extended into the fly to prevent gaping. In addition, lower edge of pocket bag is to be placed on the fold to reduce seam impressions.

• Quarter angle pocket dimensions: 3cm x 14cm with a bar tack positioned 1.5cm from waistband and a bare tack at the pocket base.

• Pocket flaps to be graded – discussed at 1st fits : size 8-14 and 16+

• Hems

• Hem depth – 3cm

• Felled hems to be stitched on the overlocking unless show through occurs

• Hems must have interlining [KK1, KK5 or T008] at the hem on the inside seam

• Top felled

• Stitch through – to be discussed at the buying meeting

• KNITTED TROUSERS

• Basic Construction

• Best

• Elastic at waist to be completely covered [1½ times]

• Waist extend measurement to be added to the size chart – measurement to be approx. 4cm over the lower hip.

• No lockstitch must be used to eliminate cracking

• The Waistbands can be constructed in a variety of methods depending on styling and machine set up however the elastic must be pre cut, stitched together and inserted

• All seams must be 4 thread or 5 thread overlocked

• Hems

• Hem depth – 3cm

• Stitching options :- Cover seamed or overlocked then single chain stitch

• Covering stitching to be reinforced at the end with a lockstitch back-tack or a bar tack. Stitch condensing is not sufficient alone to prevent run-back

• No BULK thread must be used at the hem

• CASUAL TROUSERS & JEANS

• Basic Construction

• Best

• Double placket

• Security stitch at the zip base

• Zip length to be discussed at 1st fits. Must be graded

• Pocket flaps to be graded – discussed at 1st fits ; size 8-14 and 16+

• Buttonhole – keyhole for Studs, unless otherwise agreed.

• Rivets and studs to follow the procedures

• Hems

• Hem depth – 3cm

• Double turned

• Jeans

• Waistband

• To be attached through folder with twin – needle chainstitch to give specified finish width

• Ends to be turned in, then “U” stitched ensuring ends of thread are secured

• Comfort Band

• Belt Loops

• To be constructed using folder and sewn using a twin-needle cover-seam, to achieve specified width

• Loops to have fusing or agreed product to prevent fraying

• Loops to be attached to product using automatic attach machine and bar-tacked top & bottom

• Internal end to be mitred and to a MAXIMUM of 1.0 CMS

• SKIRTS, DRESSES & TOPS

• Basic Construction

• Waistband construction as trousers

• Invisible zip to be used unless with fly construction

• Fastening at top of zip opening i.e. button & loop, hook & eye etc.

• Stripe & Check matched at all seams

• Zip length to be 23cm – functional opening at 21cm

• Invisible zip specification : as trousers

• Hem construction to be discussed at buying meeting

• Felled hems as trousers

• Bias cut skirts – see best practice guide

• Elasticated waist – waist extend measurements to be added to the size chart – approx. 4cm over lower hip measurement

• Elastic at waists to be covered by the fabric 1½ times

• All vents longer than 30cm to be felled – dependant on fabric type

• Lined

• Bagged out zip

• Keyhole vent – Washed garments only

• Bagged out vent – Dry Clean garments only

• Underlip felled hems

• DRESSES & TOPS

• All narrow straps to be secured inside the seam allowance with a bar-tack

• Transparency must be assessed

• Back Neck facing to be added where required. Shape to be as neck line. Follow main range guidelines

• Hems

• Double Turned – to be flat without roping or pucker

• Pin Hem – lockstitch to be centred on the overlocking edge.

• Scrolled – fabric to be rolled within overlocking for security, ensuring start/finish overrun is even and all thread ends securely finished

• Felled – all ends to be fully secured using either fusible or locked Thread methods. Length of thread tail is minimum 15mm, 20mm maximum

• Bias Dresses – Best Practices

• Spreading

• Vertically spread and pin fabric

• Rip each ply

• 3 size markers, maximum marker length = 5metres

• Garment Make-up

• Binding on neck – Lockstitch around neck and armhole to stabilise fabric prior to attaching binding using a 75 thread.

• Attachment of binding – Use lockstitch to feed [DLU 5490] with binding fittings to aid in the elimination of roping.

• Side Seams

• Hanging loops to be used to take weight of the dress and aid in the elimination of swinging side seams & improve appearance at neck and armholes.

• Balance notches used to ensure panels are sewn together correctly.

• Either use top feed 4 thread machine [MOR3916 DE4 20P] or the top feed pucker free 5 thread machine [MOR3916 DE4 20P].

• Bias bust seams – Require to b evaluated on different types of fabrics.

• Lined garments [neck & armholes]

• Balance notches to be used on both outer fabric and lining.

• Trimming of hems

• Iron garment prior to trimming. [to simulate 24 hour hanging period].

• Allow garment to hang for 24 hours. [Fabric dependant].

• Trim garment hanging vertically pegging out the bust and hips prior to trimming.

• Outer fabric

• Open out hem smoothing out any fullness, then trim to correct length following the shape of trimming guide.

• Lining [if applicable] Lift up outer fabric and clip away from lining hemline, open out hem smoothing out any fullness, then trim to correct length following the shape of the hemming guide thus ensuring correct differential.

Hemming

Baby overlocked hem and use lockstitch top feed [DLU 5490] with hemming attachment to form hem.

NB. No back darts in bias dresses.