Garment Technical Training – What is ‘Fit’
Frank Lomax - 25th November 2000
A Definition of Fit?
The Manner in which a garment adopts the shape of the body over which it is placed – Comfort Factors.
The Ease between the garment and the body taking into account the intended under garments during wear – Sizing Factors.
The expectation of Fabric Reaction related to Fit. – Styling Factors.
Factors effecting Comfort in Upper Garments – Drafts
Balances
Length of Front Vs. Back – Vertical Balance
Width of Back Vs. Front – Lateral Balance
Angles
Garment Vs. Body Shoulder – Padding
Neck Point to Centre Front & Centre Back – Closeness
Darting
Shaped around the Torso Vs. Looseness from the Shoulder
Seaming
Multiple Seams Shaping to the Body Vs. Styling Only
Armholes
Small Vs. Large
Exact Vs. Safe
Elegance Vs. Movement
Narrow Vs. Broad
High Vs. Deep
Sleeves
Straight Vs. Curved
Narrow Vs. Wide
Long Vs. Short
Styling Effects which can Confuse Fit
Blouse Bigger than Jacket – Jacket Bigger than Coat
Under Garment Sleeves longer than Outer Garment
Blouse Neck Falling Backward Vs. Jacket Neck Forward.
Low Armhole inside a High Armhole
Large Cuff inside a Small Cuff
Relationship of Upper Garment to Lower Garment
Factors Effecting Comfort in Lower Garments – Draft
Balances
Front Vs. Back – (Skirt Vertical) (Trouser Vertical & Lateral)
Width of Back Vs. Width of Front (Skirt & Trouser – Lateral)
Hip Vs Stride (Trousers – Lateral)
Waist to Waist through the Fork Point (Trousers Vertical & Lateral)
Angles
Waist Line to Side Seam – Front & Back (Skirts & Trousers)
Waist to Maximum Hip – Front & Back Side Seams (Skirts & Trousers)
Waist to Maximum Hip – Centre Front & Centre Back (Trousers)
Inseam Vs. Out-seam – Maximum Hip & Fork Point to Ankle (Trousers)
Darting
Shaped to Body Line or Located for Styling
Darts Vs. Seam Shapes & Location.
Seaming
Body Shaped or Simple Lines for Styling.
Waistline Shape
Located to Body Waist or Lowered / Raised for Style.
Natural to Body Line – Straight or Curved
Parallel to Ground or Angled for Style.
Hang or Swing
Vertical, Tip to Front or Tip to Back
Clean Front Leg or Clean Back Leg Priority
Styling Effects which can Confuse Fit
Low Rise on a Bigger Waist (Skirt Lifts – Hip too big) (Trouser Lifts – Cross Fork now too high)
Garment Rise is lower than the Body Rise (Bunches when Sitting) (Crotch Seam Chafes Legs)
Short Back Rise is Clean when Standing – Back Waist stands off of the body when Sitting
Too many different Shape Characteristics in the same range (High Waist - Dropped Waist – Straight Waist – Curved Waist).
Hip of Skirt / Trouser bigger than the Jacket Hip.
Factors Effecting Sizing Garments – Blocks
Definition of the body to be fitted – The Body Measurements
Definition of the Garment Type to be constructed – (‘T’ Shirt / Dress / Jacket / Coat) – (Panty / Body Fit / Loose Fit)
Minimum Dimensions to be achieved within a Garment Type – (Close Fit / Loose Fit)
Effect of Ease or Tolerance on Finished Dimensions
Effect of Fabric Types on achieving Dimensions
Consistency of Applying Ease or Tolerance – by Proportion or Percentage
Neck To Neck or Armhole to Armhole Correlation – (Blouse to Jacket) – (Jacket to Coat)
Understanding and Accommodating the Body Rise.
Prerequisites for Controlling Fit
Know and Believe in the Body Measurements for the Target Customer.
Decide on Specific Target Market Groups – (Everyone) or (Miss & Madam) or (Mum & Daughter) or (WI & Executive) or (Standard & Plus & Petite)
Understand how each Customer Grouping Perceives Fit – How it should ‘Feel’
Decide the Size Ranges and Buy Into your Belief. – Use the Data Wisely.
Set Out the Product Groupings (Jackets / OverJackets / Coats) (Formal Trousers / Casual Trousers / Jeans)
Set out the Minimum Dimensions for each Product Grouping – (Decide, Agree & Stick to them)
Agree Fabric Types for possible use in each Product Grouping and determine the Maximum & Minimum effect on Sizing. (Specify Process Targets)
Segregate Range Planning into Customer Categories and Control - Don’t Mix the Market Groupings in the same sales area.
Have as many Groups as you can Realistically Manage but make sure they all fit the Target Customer (Miss Jean is different to Mum Jean)
Try and Limit the Design Related Fit Characteristics in each Customer Grouping
Benefits of Using ‘Block Patterns’ to Control Fit.
Establish the Comfort Elements within each Block
Define the Expectation of ‘Ease Over the Body’& of Fabric Action and Control.
Blocks provide a Consistent Basis for Comfort and Sizing.
They Control the Effect of Styling Fundamentals (Inset Vs. Raglan) (Jean Vs. Trouser)
Control the effect of different Seaming on Fit – Use Multiple Panel Blocks.
Blocks are owned by the Retailer and Used by the Supplier.
Blocks control the Buyer, The Designer and the Manufacturer.
Blocks Control the Manufacturing Fit Standards and Minimise Costs.
Disadvantages of Using Block Patterns
The Blocks have to be Correct and of Excellent Fit
Problems in a Block tend to move from Style to Style.
Ensure that the Size Grading Fits the Customer Group.
Worry about the Accuracy of such as Armscye Width Grading
Conflicts coming from Manufacturing
Patterns Constructed and Controlled to Manufacturing Methods (Jigs / Dart Sewers / Press Shapes)
Customers Perception of their Body and Body Size.
Time of the Month
Girdles & 'Push Up' Bra’s.
Clothing does not Relate to the Body inside.
Body is not Standard but its Good Enough.
How do Stance and Posture effect Fit?