8. Cami Knickers Fitted at the Waist
Cami Knickers Fitted at the Waist
Figs. 220 (a) and (b) show the drafting of Pantie Knickers cut in the fashionable abbreviated line and fitted at the waist.
Fig. 220 (a) shows knickers with small tucks at the front and back waist to gain the required fit, while,
Fig. 220 (b) has a shaped hip yoke at the front waist and is gathered in at the back waist by elastic.
The former style is cut with a side-seam and a side opening on the shorts principle, and the latter style is cut to resemble a skirt without a seam at the side.
Measures for Fig. 220 (a) are as follows—
Waist = 26 inches.
Hips = 37 inches.
Body-rise length = 11 inches.
Side-seam length = 16 inches.
Leg length = 5 inches.
Working scale = half the hip measure = 18½ inches.
To Draft—
Square from X.
1 from X = 8 inches down for the hip level.
2 from X = the body-rise length calculated by subtracting the leg length from the side-seam length = 11 inches.
3 from 2 = the leg length = 5 inches.
Square out from the above points.
4 from 2 = one-fourth of the hip measure plus ½ inch.
Square up from 4 to 5 and 6 on the lines squared out from 1 and X respectively.
7 from 6 = one-fourth of the waist measure plus ½ inch for two seams.
8 from 7 = 1½ inches for two small tucks at the front.
9 from 4 = one-sixth of the scale plus ½ inch.
Shape the fork run from 6 to 9.
Square down from 9 to 10 for the inside leg seam.
11 from 6 = 3 inches.
12 from 11 = 1½ inches for the position of the two front tucks.
Shape the side-seam from 8 to 1 and 1 inch in front of 3.
Shape the bottom edge run from the side-seam to 10, adding ½ inch of round.
THE UNDERSIDES
To draft the undersides—
13 is half 4 to 9 for the seat-angle location.
14 from 4 = one-fourth of the waist measure.
Line the seat angle from 13 through 14 to 15, 1½ to 2 inches above the waist line.
16 from 9 = 2 inches.
17 from 10 = 2 inches.
Shape the seat seam from 15 to 14 and 16 and the inside leg seam from 16 to 17.
Measure from 15 to 18 one-fourth of the waist measure plus 2 inches for seams and tucks; ½ inch is taken up in the seams.
Measure from 1 to 5 and apply this quantity from 14 to 19 equal to half the hip measure plus 2 inches for ease and seams.
20 from the front side-seam = 2 inches.
Shape the under side-seam from 18 to 19 and 20 and the bottom-edge run from 20 to 17, adding ½ inch of round at the fronts.
21 from 18 = 3 inches for the position of the first ¾-inch tuck.
22 from 21 = 1½ inches for the position of the second tuck.
Mark each tuck 5½ inches in length to complete the draft of Fig. 220 (a).
As previously indicated, the draft in Fig. 220 (b) is based on an adaptation of the skirt basis system.
Measures for the draft are as for Fig. 220 (a).
To Draft—
Square from X.
1 from X = 8 inches down for the hip level.
2 from X = the body-rise length = 11 inches.
3 from 2 = the leg length = 5 inches.
Square out from 2 to 4 the front fork quantity, i.e. one-sixth of the scale plus ½ inch.
Square down the inside leg seam from 4 to 5 equal to 2 to 3.
Shape the front fork run from X to 4.
Square out from 1 to 6 half the hip measure plus 1 inch for ease.
7 is half the distance from 1 to 6 less 1 inch from 1.
Pivoting from 7, sweep back from 6 to 8 3 inches to obtain the flared width in the legs.
Join 7 to 8 and square up from 8 to 9 8 inches, the distance from 1 to X.
Join 9 to X and square back from 9 to 10 on the extension of line X to 1.
11 from X = half the distance from X to 9 less 1 inch from X.
12 from 11 on the line joining 11 to 7 = one-third of the distance from 10 to X.
13 from X = one-fourth of the waist measure plus ½ inch for seams.
14 from 12 = the distance from 12 to 13.
Shape the side opening from 13 and 14 into the line from 12 to 7, making the opening 6 inches in length.
On the line joining 8 to 9, continue down from 8 to 15 the body-rise length, and from 15 to 16 the inside leg length of 5 inches.
17 square from the line from 9 to 16 = the front fork quantity from 2 to 4 plus 2½ inches for the back fork addition.
Square down from 17 to 18 the leg length of 5 inches.
29 from 15 = the distance from 2 to 4.
10 is half the distance from 15 to 19.
21 from 15 = one-fourth of the waist measure for the seat-angle location.
Line the seat angle through from 20 to 21 and up to 22, 1½ inches above the waist line from 9 to X.
Shape the seat seam from 22 through 21 to 17 and the back waist from 14 to 22.
Shape the bottom edge of the legs from 5 through 3 to 16 and 18, making the length at the side-seam equal to the length from X to 3.
23 from 13 = 2½ inches.
24 from X = 5½ inches.
Shape the hip-yoke seam from 23 to 24 as shown.
When cutting from the material, if the yoke from X to 24 is cut on the fold of the material, reduce a seam at the front so that the length from 23 to 24 on the yoke is equal to 23 to 24 on the leg section after a seam has been sewn away from 24 to 4.
