Ladies Tailoring Construction for Wovens & Jersey
General Seaming
Stitch Density
A minimum of 12-14 stitches per 2.5cm should be used on all lock stitch seams and chain stitch seams
Overlocking operations should provide good cover for the fabric type in use without causing thick edges – Three thread overlocking is to be the norm but two thread overlocking may be used where exceptional circumstances occur. Stitches should be 10 - 12 stitches per 2.5cm
Buttonholes require a minimum of 16-18 stitches per 2.5cm to provide good coverage of the cut edges, unless fabric or otherwise require more or less stitches to be agreed with the Buying team during sealing.
Felling stitches should be 8 to 10mm pitch with a level of pick up to prevent breakdown while avoiding any show through onto the outer surface of the garment
- Unless the fabric or style requires some modification to these guidelines.
Thread Type
Sewing threads should be appropriate for the fabric in use and its performance.
The thread count and sewing needle sizes used should also be correct for the relevant type of seaming in use.
Core spun polyester threads should be used were possible.
Spun polyester threads are not recommended due to their lower thread strength.
Other threads used for such as embroidery, embellishments or other decorative stitching should be compatible with the fabric and the garment after care recommendations. These need to be agreed with the Design and Buying team.
Seams
All main seams on tailored garments should be 1.5cm wide and be pressed open.
Pressed open back rise seams on trousers must be of double row, lock stitching or of two thread chain stitching as this seam may be subjected to a large amount of stress.
Safety stitched back rise seams, where used, should be of the 5 thread overlock and chain stitch type to provide for movement and good levels of seam security.
Where 5 thread or 4 thread overlocked seams are used they should be pressed over cleanly in the appropriate direction for the panel or part of the garment where used.
Where garments parts are overlocked together, specifically along seams that are to be put under any stress or stretching, it is required that you ensure a consistent amount of fabric is taken in to these seams to avoid seam breakdown or seam slippage occurring during wear.
Single needle lockstitch seams should not be used for any jersey or high stretch fabrics as the seams will bust if stretched. Single needle chain stitch seams or linking seams are required for their flexibility.
Single needle, twin needle chain, overlock or cover stitch seams should be used on jersey fabrics for stitching cuffs and hems.
'Softs' Garments
French Seams should be used for all softs fabrics.
Hems should be double turned.
Embroidery and Embellishments
Where Embroidery and Beading is used:
All embroidery should be double knotted, leaving only a minimum thread tail of less than 1cm, which then needs to be neatened.
Where embroidery is used across a garment body then the grading of the garment should be considered with the repeat of the embroidery in mind.
When using viscose or shiny threads the thread should be secured with extra knots to ensure that the stitches are secure. Furthermore a 1cm tail should be left to ensure that the thread or stitching does not run back through the knot.
If washed garments contain embroidery, they will need to have been assessed for colour marking. The thread tail length may need to be longer, between 1.5cm to 2cm before wash and the frayed ends trimmed neatly after wash. This situation needs to be assessed during wash testing.
Where beading is used on a garment for decoration, the following should be taken in to consideration:
The Toxicity of every bead should have been tested to meet international safety guidelines.
Checks should also be made to test all beads for their colour fastness to avoid fading during wear or during aftercare, particularly strong colours and reds.
Viscose sewing threads should not be used.
Threads should be doubled when hand sewing beads and embellishments.
All beads should be secured after every 3rd bead by a knot or by a back-tack stitch to prevent any beads from falling off.
Do not use any glass beads which have rough edges as they will sever the sewing thread and fall off. All glass beads should have smoothed edges.
If beads are attached to the waist of a garment, then the stitching should have sufficient stretch to be compatible with the waist stretch of the garment.
Spare beads are required to be supplied with each garment, to be specified by the buying team and supplied attached to the garment in a small poly bead bag.
Fastenings
Dresses
Dress shoulders must include a functional ‘Bra Keeper’ (Hand Chain & Popper) located on the inside in the centre of each shoulder seam.
Button Attachment
ALL buttons should be securely attached using the appropriate method for the type of button in use. This will include lock stitch, chain stitch and hand sewing methods.
Buttons should have equidistant attachment holes as specified during sampling. Any inconsistency with this can cause needle deflection and slip stitching
All buttons should be attached using a neck or shank length of suitable length to suit the thickness of the garment parts they are closing to avoid a tightly sewn button distorting the buttonhole area.
All buttons with a neck or shank should have the neck neatly whipped to secure the button and avoid its drooping when unfastened. The whipping can be by machine or by hand but should be neat and without loose thread ends.
The only exception to these guidelines are for two holed shirt and blouse buttons that go through a straight buttonhole on thin fabric. These buttons should have a small neck of about 1.5mm to prevent the button splaying the button hole.
The two hole button attachment thread should be sewn in the direction of the button hole, not across it.
Where buttons made from shells are being considered, care should be taken to ensure their durability from cracking and snapping. These are more likely to be attached using hand sewing when a quality check can be made on each button before its use.
Spare Buttons
Spare buttons should ideally be placed in a small re-sealable poly spare button bag.
They may be attached onto the care label in some cases with the agreement of the buying team, making sure that no information on the care label or any care symbol is covered by the button stitching.
The specification for the supply of spare buttons is as follows:
1 spare button wherever 1 button or more have been used.
1 spare button of each size if different sized buttons are used.
2 spare buttons in each size where cloth covered buttons are used.
Button Attachment Potential Faults:
In addition to basic stitching faults the following causes also contribute significantly to the failure of button attachments and should be noted when selecting the type of button and the sewing method:
Thread unraveling from buttons sewn using a chain stitch machine where the mechanism has not locked off the last stitches.
Fabric tearing where the button is attached on finer and some washed fabrics.
Whipping threads coming undone on buttons subjected to frequent fastening and unfastening where the whipping thread has not been locked off by the machine used or by the hand sewer.
Buttons breaking away from the thread due to poorly selected buttons or incorrectly set machinery allowing the needle to burr and weaken the attaching needle holes.
Threads breaking during wear caused by sharp button edges or from chaffed threads due to incorrectly set machinery or poor sewing thread selection.
Other Fastening Types
Pressed Metal buttons with sharp holes should be avoided as these edges may chafe and break the sewing thread.
Stud Buttons should be applied using a fully automatic machine, set up to reflect the recommendation in the supplier’s data sheet. Any other manual application is not recommended on products other than design samples.
Stud Buttons should not go thorough rows of stitching. They should not be applied through seams or uneven thickness which may cause the Stud Button to detach during wear due to a weak rivet closure.
Hooks & Eyes of various sizes may be used to either support a zip closure, to fasten a waistband or in larger hook sizes, be used to fasten the fronts of outerwear. Whatever method is used to attach these fastenings they must be secure and neatly stitched without loose thread ends. Where the attaching parts are sunken into a seam then the internal attaching system must be strong and durable.
Hooks and Bars used to fasten trouser waist bands, which are applied using a stapling system, must be applied using the correct equipment from the supplier of the component parts. The staple barbs must all be well stamped over into the recesses of their backing plates. The interlining used on the fabric carrying stapled Hooks and Bars should be of sufficient strength to cover the backing plates and staple barbs to protect the wearer from irritation or injury.
Press Studs should be sourced from an approved supplier. They should be applied using a fully automatic machine, set up to reflect the recommendation in the supplier’s data sheet. Any other manual application is not recommended on products other than possibly design samples. Stud should not be inserted through any rows of stitching. They should also not be applied through seams or uneven thickness which may cause the stud to detach during wear due to a weak rivet closure.
Eyelets should be applied using a fully automatic machine, set up to reflect the recommendation in the supplier’s data sheet. Any other manual application is not recommended on products other than design samples.
All metal fastenings and attachments must be nickel free.
All fastenings will be subject to styling requirements and may vary from season to season.
Zips
Zip types used depends on styling however all zips need to be concealed, either by a zip guard on Trousers or by using an invisible concealed zip with Triangular Zip Guard on Skirts. Dresses & Knitwear do not normally have guards or plackets.
Knitted jackets or cardigans are likely to have internal knitted cover plackets on each edge of the zip and these covers must not be allowed to interfere with the closing mechanism of the zip.
All Zips used need to be dyed to match unless otherwise specified or agreed.
All zips, single or continuous chain must have efficient base stoppers or security tacks added level with the zip seam closure, to ensure that the slider and puller cannot break open the seam during dressing.
Where single made up zips are used secure top stops, which allow the slider to fully close the zip, should be included.
A minimum of 3cm of zip tape should extend below the seam opening of concealed zips. These zip tails should not be visible inside the garment and be covered with either a placket or be covered by the bagged out garment lining.
All jeans zips should be of brass metal unless otherwise agreed with the Buying team.
All zip sliders and pullers should be selected and approved by the Design and Buying team.
Zips used on garment washed styles should be tested for slider durability and paint retention during the wash process and then approved with the buying team.
Zip Openings
For trousers and jeans with 3cm straight waistband in the natural waist the maximum zip opening for a front fly is 15cm below the waistband set into a feminine shaped front rise ‘J’. (See ‘Zip Opening Standards Diagram’ - This position lies approximately 8cm above the base of the whole crotch ‘U’ shape). Zips set in lower than this position are likely to cause starring below the zip.
For trousers and jeans with shaped waistbands where the top of the band is in the natural waist the maximum zip opening for a front fly is 15cm below the top of the waistband.
For skirt or trousers with concealed side zips and with 3cm straight waistband in the natural waist the minimum zip opening is 18cm and the maximum is 23cm below the waistband.
For skirts or trousers with concealed side zips with shaped waistbands where the top of the band is in the natural waist the minimum zip opening for a front fly is 18cm and the maximum is 23cm below the top of the waistband.
Dress centre back zip lengths will vary dependent on the back neck drop and the fit of the dress. Slim fit pencil dresses should have a zip opening which allows the hips to pass easily through the opening during dressing without breaking the zip base and the seam. (Is approximately 59cm from natural nape of neck to the low hip). The zip opening effectiveness should be assessed during the sealing process.
Dress underarm side zip lengths should commence close to the base of the armhole and terminate at or near to the low hip line. The length of zip will depend on the depth of the armhole and the fit of the dress to be assessed during sealing.
Zips used for front openings and pocket detailing of jackets and coats will vary dependent on the styling and type and weight of zip specified. Lengths will also vary accordingly. All details to be agreed with the buying team.
Opening reversible zips and opening zips with double ended sliders must have ‘easy to close’ sliders and bottom stop mechanisms.
All opening zips should be provided with slider set on the womenswear side of the zip.
Buttonholes
Shirt and Blouse buttonhole types are to use the two thread lockstitch straight cut buttonhole format.
Eyelet buttonhole types are to be of the two thread pearled chainstitch type with strengthening gimp laid under the stitching on either front or the back, depending on the machine type used.
Eyelet Buttonhole types may be either:
Cut before or cut after eyelet type with gimp and fine bar tacked across the square end, for 4-hole buttons and stud buttons
Cut after with short fishtail with gimp, for 4-hole buttons and stud buttons – for skirts & trousers only
Straight cut without eye, for 2 hole buttons – for Trousers or Casual jackets.
All buttonholes to have sufficient stitch cover to avoid the fabric fraying and to cover the interlining.
Waistband buttonhole are to be positioned horizontally and central on the band 1.0cm in from the band end to prevent the band end rolling back, unless otherwise agreed with the Design and Buying team.
Jacket and Coat buttonholes are normally positioned the width of the button back from the edge of the garment or positioned to suit the styling.
Toggles
If toggles are used on a garment it is important that the fixing cords and fastening loops are securely and neatly attached to the garment.
On washed garments the fixing cord ends must be double turned and tacked for security.
The durability of the fastenings should be established during sealing.
Velcro
Velcro, where used on pocket openings, or on any other openings, should have the rough side positioned away from the underneath of the hand to prevent scratching on the sensitive palm of the hand and to prevent the Velcro from sticking to other garments and snagging them, while in the wash or during wear. (E.g. the looped side to be positioned under pocket flaps.)
Elastics
Elastics need to be durable and be made from materials that will conform to the wash label or dry cleaning conditions while retaining the required elasticity.
The stretch characteristics and recovery performance should be compatible with the end use of the garment part in which the elastic is used.
Where a design requires that rows of stitching are to pass along the length of the elastic, it is likely to reduce the stretch and recovery performance of the elastic. This effect will need to be assessed and compensated for in the application and then approved during the sealing process.
Where elastic is covered by or inserted a fabric tube such as a waistband and then stitched across to hold in place:
The stitching rows should be located well in from the end of the elastic strip.
The sewing should have sufficient stitches per 1cm to prevent the elastic from breaking out of the seam.
Elastics need to be dyed to match where visible.
If the elastic is not visible because it is enclosed, as a guide use:
Black Elastic : Dark colours.
White/Ecru : Light colours.
Grey : Mid range colours.
Dyed to match if there is any chance of show though darkening the outer fabric.
Hanger Loops
Hanger loops must be positioned at the side seams of skirts and trousers under the waistband on one piece waistband garments using a loop of sufficient length to reach over the peg top of the clip hanger while the garment is correctly positioned in the clip hanger (approximately 8cm/9cm).
Hanger loops must be positioned in the side seams of skirts and trousers about 2cm from the top on garments with multi piece shaped waistbands, using a loop of sufficient length to reach over the peg top of the clip hanger while the garment is correctly positioned in the clip hanger (approximately 8cm/9cm).
Where the loops are set into the side seams of an internal waist facing, then the lower edge of the facing should be secured to the outer garment to prevent the loop pulling the facing upward when hanging in an unclipped situation.
Dress hanger loops of either 5mm ribbon or of hand chain-loop need to be of the correct length and position to allow the garment to be secured onto the garment hanger using either the hanger’s top edge shoulder hooks or using the hanger’s metal centre hook.
1cm wide Ribbon Hanging Loops are to be used for Skirts and Trousers.
4mm / 5mm dyed to match ribbon is to be used for Dress Hanger Loops.
Jacket and Coat back neck hanger loops should be made from self lining sewn into a 6mm/7mm tube or ‘dyed to match’ 8mm ribbon.
The loop should be inserted into the back neck seam with mitered corners so that it can be pressed flat with its lower edge running along the back neck seam. (See Back Neck Hanger Loop diagram).
Branded metal chain loops, where used, should be well secured to the back neck using sufficient strong thread, locked off to take the full weight of the garment without any stitching failure during its use.
Belts
For all styles that are to have belts, it is normal to have sufficient belt loops to carry the belt. The size, positions and type of belt loop needs to be determined from the design specification or during the sealing process.
The length of Belts with buckle pins and eyelets are to be measured from the inner front edge of the buckle to the middle eyelet.
All belts are to have 5 eyelets unless specified by Design.
The pin hole spacing is generally to be 2.5cm.
The distance from the first hole to open end of the belt should be between 10cm and 14cm dependent on the style of belt and the length needed to be included under the next belt loop on the garment (subject to Design requirement).
Belts should have a sliding keeper unless the design does not permit or require.
Skirt and trouser belts should incorporate a keeper in with the buckle attachment where a one sided buckle without its own keeper is used.
Self belts should be of a robust construction but sufficiently thin to be compatible with the garment and the buckle size.
Self Belts made from thick coat or jacket fabrics should incorporate the ‘centre back seam’ constriction along their length to keep the outer edge thicknesses the same along each edge.
Self tie belts should be of sufficient length to allow the type of bow indicated in the Design sketch to be comfortably tied by the wearer.
Fabric Requirements
All parts of a garment should be cut in the same fabric direction unless a special design or styling need is required. Where a fabric allows two way (A & B) cutting and use of this benefit has been agreed, then all parts of one garment should still be cut in the same direction.
Patterned Fabrics
Check & Stripe Matching is required on patterned fabrics, unless agreed to be otherwise with the Buying team.
Check fabrics must also be treated as one way fabrics unless agreed with the Buying team.
ALL checks and stripes should be matched to the following standard:
Horizontally:
Centre front seam / opening
Centre back seam
All side seams
All front and back panel seams
All sleeve seams
All pocket flaps and patches.
Symmetry between left and right lapels.
Vertically:
(i) Mirrored panels, centre front and centre back.
(ii) Matching required through collars to the back.
(iii) All pocket flaps and pocket patches.
(iv) All shaped waistbands cut across fabric.
(v) Symmetry between left and right lapels.
These ground rules apply to all checks and striped fabrics but are subject to Design and Styling requirements which may be discussed at the design stage with the Design and Buying teams.
Pile Fabrics
Velvet, velveteen, cord fabrics and any other pile fabrics must be treated as one way, one direction.
Velvet should be cut with the nap or pile laid in the up direction. This ground rule is subject to any special design of fabric requirements.
Corduroy cutting direction should be discussed with the design and buying teams.
Washed Garments
Washed garments should always be fitted after the final wash treatment has been established (any development washed garments where the effect of the wash process is uncertain should not be fitted until the correct finish is available).
Linings
The fit of all linings inside of a garment should compliment the outer fabric of the garment and its construction fitness for purpose should be treated as individual to each product and type.
Lining seam should be overlocked and sewn with lock stitch or chain stitch seaming and pressed open to allow for alteration where alteration allowance is provided in the outer garment. Otherwise a five thread safety stitch seam should be used.
All Jackets and Coats will need a back neck pleat in the lining to provide for stretch across the upper back during wear. Care should be taken to ensure that this allowance is not lost when deep back neck cloth facings are used in the design or lost when a back neck label is positioned too low down trapping the allowed pleat expansion.
Lining to Cloth Differentials
For skirts and trousers the extra lining over the hips should be sufficient to allow for the natural or mechanical stretch of the fabric to be taken up by the wearer during sitting without splitting the lining or its seams. Where excessive fabric extension is experienced, then a stretch lining should be considered.
Jacket & Coat linings should be cut in the girth to fit the inside of the garment with just sufficient differential to avoid tightness.
The Jacket and Coat lining lengths should incorporate enough extra length to provide the deep pleat (or purse) in the hem of the body and the sleeve cuff needed for movement.
Linings should have a soft handle for the comfort of the wearer as a minimum requirement subject to design.
All linings should be cut in the same direction as the garment fabric. I.e. Bias cut lining in a bias cut garments, with warp to warp and weft to weft direction cut to the same grain line as the outer cloth panels. This will avoid any conflict between the outer and inner garments.
All lining seaming positions for Jackets and Coats should mirror the seams of the outer garment where shaping is evident to avoid unnecessary drags or shortness.
The cutting of lining sleeve heads needs to be correct to avoid the lining from being pulled up or from bunching down into the cuff area during wear.
Skirt and trousers lining are to be appropriately cut to the shape of the panels they cover with open hem constructions.
Waist suppression should be compatible with the outer fabric but with ease allowed to avoid tightness across the waist. Sewn Darts may be used but pleats of the same or slightly greater suppression are acceptable and these should be located adjacent to the darts or pleats in the outer garment.
Skirt and trouser linings should be bagged out around the zip, unless agreed with the Buying Team.
Skirt linings should be bagged out around any open vents, unless agreed with the Buying team.
All lining hems are to be narrow and double turned, unless alternatives are agreed during the sealing process.
Interlinings
All interlinings selected should enhance the appearance and durability of the garment and be fit for purpose.
All interlinings used in a garment must conform to the after care conditions identified on the care label to be used in the garment (i.e. must be washable to the temperature stated on a washable garment’s care label).
Sewn in interlinings must be secure and not be able to break down during after care.
Fusible interlinings should be selected to support the outer fabric without being visible in any way.
The Resin (Glue) system employed on the interlining must be applied to the garment parts following the suppliers fusing conditions specification, using the correct automatic machinery with finite control of the fusing temperature, the fusing pressure and the fusing time within the fusing press during the bonding process. Only this way will the performance standards of the interlinings used be achieved.
There must be no over bonding of the interlining such that the resin patterns appear on the outside of the garment and subsequent delamination during washing or dry cleaning occurs (known as ‘Strike Through’).
There must be no delamination of the interlining evident on the production garments delivered, particularly with washed garments.
Knitted Jersey Construction Guidelines
General Seaming
Where used, the single needle chain stitch seam format should be of the double lock stitch construction.
Use of lockstitch format should be limited to the construction of small parts such as for woven collars and for label attaching.
Lockstitch seams should not to be used in areas of the garment where stretch is required unless bulked thread with maximum stitch density for elasticity can be incorporated.
Where overlocking formats are used for seaming then the edge trimming knives should be used to provide a clean edge under the stitching where possible. If fringing still occurs due to the fabric type then a maximum allowed fringing should be no more than 1mm.
Any thread ends necessary due to the construction or seam type in use should be limited to 3mm.
None or partial inclusion of the seam edges in seams of the overlock type will cause the seams to fail. Full inclusion is required without any reduction to the garment size.
Hems
All hems should be sewn ‘ in the round’ where possible.
When a style prevents sewing in the round such as where there are side splits, then the construction should ensure that the chain ends of the seams should be secured by inclusion in the next seam, or by using a stitch condense format or by locking off. Alternatively, small lockstitch tacks may be sunk into the hem stitching line to ensure that the last chain end loop has been is caught in. This is subject to agreement with the buying team.
Sleeve hems should be sewn in the round where possible and should start and finish within 1cm of underarm seam towards the back of garment.
Bottom hems sewn in the round should start and finish within 1cm of side seam towards the back of garment.
Hem sewn in the round using a Cover seam format will have an overlap and this is to be a minimum of 7mm and maximum 1.5cms with no loose thread ends allowed.
Hems of any construction should not twist or rope and pressing away to disguise that fault is not acceptable.
Necks / Collars
Any necessary Neck Binding joins should be set in line with the shoulder seam where possible or in line with raglan sleeve seam if not a set in sleeve.
Neck ribs are to be closed first and then attached in the round.
Minimum neck stretch should be included in your measurement and size chart detail for round neck garments (Minimum standard neck stretch is 32cms half neck for all sizes).
Knitted Tape in the back necks must extend to the shoulder end of the shoulder seams and finish folded in at the shoulder point or should be finished using small neat lockstitch tacks.
Collars and Necks should always be ‘quartered and marked’ prior to attachment to the neck to ensure a balanced collar. Alternatively, marks for the shoulder seams and centre back positions may be used instead to prevent the collar swinging to one side during sewing.
Swinging or unbalanced collars are not acceptable.
Buttonholes and Button Sewing
Ensure that the correct buttonhole type is used for the garment type to be agreed during the sealing processes.
Buttonholes are not to be distorted during sewing and the garment should be interlined where possible to resist any stretching occurring when the buttonholes are inserted or when the buttons are fastened.
Please ensure that thread line for buttons is sewn in the same direction as that of the button hole cut to reduce the chance of any distortion occurring during subsequent use.
All buttons should be securely attached using the appropriate method for the type of button in use. This will include lock stitch and hand sewing methods.
Buttons should have equidistant attachment holes as specified during sampling. Any inconsistency with this can cause needle deflection and slip stitching.
All buttons should be attached using a neck or shank length of suitable length to suit the thickness of the garment parts they are closing to avoid a tightly sewn button distorting the buttonhole area.
All buttons with a neck or shank should have the neck neatly whipped to secure the button and avoid its drooping when unfastened. The whipping can be by machine or by hand but should be neat and without loose thread ends.
The only exception to these guidelines are for two holed shirt and blouse buttons that go through a straight buttonhole on thin fabric. These buttons should have a small neck of about 1.5mm to prevent the button splaying the button hole.
Where buttons made from shells are being considered, care should be taken to ensure their durability from cracking and snapping. These are more likely to be attached using hand sewing when a quality check can be made on each button before its use.
Spare Buttons
Spare buttons should ideally be placed in a small re-sealable poly spare button bag to be placed into the care label using a small swift tack.