7. LINGERIE CUT ON THE BIAS - CAMI KNICKERS

Bias-cut Cami-knickers

The draft of cami-knickers here presented is suitable for bias cutting only, for the waist suppression is reduced entirely from the side-seams in contradistinction to usual standards, and it is only possible to do this when the garment is so cut on the cross, which enables the material to assume the shape of the figure without any drags or folds of surplus material.

It is advisable, when designing bias-cut garments, to keep all the design seams at an angle of forty-five degrees from the vertical, so that, when the pattern outline is placed on the bias of the material, these design seams will all be on the "straight" and twisting of the various sections will be minimized.

The design of these cami-knickers embodies a brassiere-top effect and diagonal seams from the side-seams to the centre front and back.

Measures for the draft are as follows—

Waist = 26 inches.

Hips = 37 inches.

Side-seam length from the waist to the leg = 16½ inches.

Inside leg length = 5 inches.

Body-rise length = 11½ inches.

Working scale = half the hip measure = 18½ inches.

To draft—

Square from X.

1 from X = the length from the breast line to the waist = 7¼ inches.

2 from 1 = the hip level from the waist line = 8 inches down.

3 from 1 = the body-rise length = 11½ inches.

4 from 3 = the leg length = 5 inches.

Square out from the above points.

5 from 2 = half the hip measure plus 1 inch for ease.

Square up from 5 to 6 and 7 and down to 8.

9 from 8 = the front fork quantity of one-sixth of the scale plus ½ inch.

Shape the fork run from 9 to 6.

Square down from 9 to 10 the inside leg length of 5 inches.

Measure from 7 to 11 half the bust measure net.

No addition has been made for ease over the bust measure as the author finds that with bias-cut garments they need to be cut to the exact size, otherwise there is a tendency for the weight of the garments to drop and pull the bodice part out of position.

Cutting the garment to the exact size or even slightly smaller causes the bias to stretch outwards instead of dropping downwards.

The side-seam is located at 12, half the distance from 7 to X.

Reduce the surplus quantity from X to 11 from the side-seams at 12 to A and B.

Square down from 12 to 13 and 14 on the lines squared out from 1 and 2.

Square down from A to 15.

16 from 15 = 1¼ inches.

Square down from B to 17.

18 from 17 = 1½ inches.

Shape the front side seam from A to 16 and the back side-seam from B to 18.

19 from 3 = the distance from 8 to 9.

20 from 19 = the back fork quantity of 2½ inches.

Square down from 20 to 21 the inside leg length of 5 inches.

22 from 3 = 1 inch.

23 from 3 = one-fourth of the waist measure.

24 from the waist line = 1½ inches.

Line the seat angle from 22 through 23 to 24.

25 from 24 = the length from 1 to 18.

Shape from 25 and 16 to 14 for the side-seams.

26 from B = ½ inch.

Square across from 26 to 27 for the top edge.

28 from 7 = one-sixth of the scale plus ½ inch.

Measure up 2½ inches from 28 to 29.

Shape from 7 to 29.

30 from 16 = 3 inches.

Shape from 30 to 7.

Shape the top edge of the brassiere section from 29 to A, and then reduce the difference between the side-seam at the back by a bust dart at 31 - 3 inches down from A, making the dart 3 inches in length.

32 from 16 = 3 inches.

33 from 6 = 6 inches.

Shape the yoke seam from 32 to 33.

34 from 25 = 3 inches.

35 from 24 = the same distance as 33 from 6.

Shape from 34 to 35.

Square down from 14 to 36.

37 from 36 = 1½ inches.

38 from 36 = 1½ inches.

Complete the shaping of the side-seams from 14 to 37 and 38.

When cutting from the material, the top bodice section from 27 to 1, 24 and 35 is cut in one with the hip yoke section from 24 to 25, 34 and 35, on the fold of the material.

Cut the garment from the material on the bias as shown by Fig. 222.