6. Cami Knickers Draft

Draft of Cami-knickers

The cami-knicker draft presented is intended as a basis for variation of design, and no pretence has been made to elaborate the system or to describe a definite style.

As a basic outline, this draft can be adapted to any style of cami-knickers cut with the fork extension in one with the skirt section.

A hip yoke is included in the basic draft to demonstrate a characteristic style feature, and the skirt sections below are cut on the bias of the material without a side-seam.

Measures for the draft are as follows—

Bust = 34 inches.

Waist = 26 inches, increased to 28 inches for the draft.

Hips = 37 inches.

Body-rise length = 11½ inches.

Side-seam length from the waist = 16½ inches, allowing for a 5-inch leg seam.

To draft—

Square from X.

1 from X = 7¼ inches down for the natural waist level.

2 from 1 = 8 inches down for the hip level.

3 from 1 = the body-rise length = 11½ inches.

4 from 1 = the side-seam length = 16½ inches.

Square out from the above points.

5 from 2 = half the hip measure plus 1 inch for ease.

Square up from 5 to 6 and 7 and down to 8.

The side-seam is located at 9 half the width from 2 to 5.

Square up from 9 to 10 and 11 and down to 12.

Measure from 7 to 13 half the bust measure plus ½ inch for ease.

14 from 15 = the distance from 2 to 3.

15 from 14 = one-sixth of the hip scale (18½ inches) plus ½ inch.

Square down from 15 to 16 equal to the length from 14 to 8.

17 from 3 = the length from 14 to 15.

18 from 17 = the back fork quantity of 2½ inches.

Square down from 18 to 19 equal to the length from 3 to 4.

Shape the bottom edge of the skirt from 19 to 4 and 16 to 8.

Reduce the surplus shown at the back from X to 13 from the side-seams at 20 and 21 from 11.

Square down from 20 and 21 to 23 and 22.

24 from 22 = ½ inch.

25 from 23 = ½ inch.

26 from 12 = 1½ inches.

27 from 12 = 1½ inches.

Shape the side-seams from 20 to 25, 9 and 26 and from 21 to 24, 9 and 27.

28 from 7 = one-sixth of the scale plus ½ inch.

Square up 2½ inches from 28 to 30.

29 from 21 = one-twelfth of the scale less ½ inch.

Join 28 to 29.

31 from 29 = ½ inch.

Shape the top edge of the fronts from 7 to 30 and 31.

Measure from 1 to 32 half the waist girth plus the quantity from 24 to 25.

The back waist suppression takes two-thirds of the surplus from 32 to 6 as indicated from 32 to 33.

34 from 1 = one-sixth of the scale plus 1 inch for the position of the back waist suppression manipulation lines.

Square up from 34 to 35.

36 from 34 = half the quantity from 32 to 33.

37 from 34 = half 32 to 33.

Mark the waist suppression from 36 and 37 to 35.

39 from 3 = 1¼ inches.

38 from 3 = one-fourth of the waist measure.

Shape the seat-angle line through 39 to 38 and up to 40.

40 from the waist line = 1¼ inches.

Shape the waist seam of the knicker section from 25 to 40.

Shape the seat seam from 40 to 38 and 18.

41 from 25 = 2½ inches for the commencement of the hip yoke at the side-seams.

42 from 24 = 41 from 25.

43 from 6 = the depth of the hip yoke at the centre front.

Shape from 43 to 42 and from 41 to 38 as shown.

44 from 24 = 3 inches for the position of the front waist suppression.

Shape out the waist suppression as indicated from 33 to 6 from the dart at 44 to 45.

46 from 31 = one-sixth of the scale for the position of the side-seam dart.

47 from 46 = the length from 21 to 29.

Shape out the dart from 46 and 47 to 48 - 4 inches in length.

The lower draft illustrates the placement of the back and front skirt sections together at the side-seams from 26 to 27 and 41 to 42, to enable the entire section to be cut in one piece on the bias of the material.

Cut through the waist seam from 6 to 24 and close out the suppression from the bodice section and from the front hip yoke. If a greater amount of flare is required in the skirt section, this should be cut through and opened out as described in the drafts of dresses with flared skirts.