Managing the Pattern Cutting Processes

Managing the Pattern Cutting Process

Following a meeting held with the Design Pattern Cutters there is definitely a sense of frustration with the way in which they currently work.

When the Consolidated Sample Room was planned, it was recognised that the position of Design Liaison Manager would be needed and, this is a Critical Function if the London Based Designers are to be freed from the day to day trivia and be totally Customer Facing.

The current status of the Pattern Development Team is that it is the only group within the Unit that is not closely supervised, other than by the Departmental Technical Manager.

Equally, the Design Pattern Developers are the only group that does not have a Planned Work Schedule, as is the case for the Garment Technical Cutting Team and the Two Sewing Teams.

Despite what may be thought of The Design Pattern Developers as individuals, as a group they do not feel supported or motivated. In ‘People Management' terms, it is said that everyone has 'motivational buttons’. The trick is to find their individual 'Motivational Buttons' and to keep pressing them on a regular basis to maintain their involvement and interest in their work for the department. .

The Pro Forma Set of Job Responsibilities below, For 'The Design Liaison' person were mapped out as part of a larger proposal for the New Organisation and Work Flow of the Garment Technical and Product Development Department.

The Junior Designer in The Design Team is the person holding that position.

I am sure that briefing into this Design Liaison Role has not taken place, with anything like the level of detail necessary to ensure that the Pattern Development elements are Crystal Clear to either the Head Designer, to Herself or to the Pattern Developers.

The Role currently is definitely just that of a ‘Sticking Plaster’ placed there with just the authority to relay the Designers Detailed wishes to the Pattern Developers.

The role of Design Liaison needs a serious review with the Pattern Development Coordination role made an integral part of that job?

Conscious that the current occupant is only part time, it does mean that she needs to prepare each days workload ahead of her absent days and administration during those days will need to be covered by the rest of the team.

Design Administrator Role

1 Receive Design and Bulk Fabric Samples into the Product Development Department, Document and Store in Cloth Store Room. Receive All Linings and Trims and store safely, waiting for Sampling Instructions from the Design Team

2 Receive Sample Requests from the Design Team, Log into the Design Register and define the Unique Pattern Sequence Number.

For Existing Patterns record the Sample Request in the Cutting Book Queue.

For New Patterns Enter the request into the Pattern Cutting Queue Book.

3 Prepare all materials for a Sample Garment into the Appropriate Storage Work Box to include the WEB Sketch with Full Materials Specification.

Add the Fabric, Lining, Fusible, Pads Zips Sleeve Head Roll and Buttons ready for subsequent Sample Cutting and Sewing.

4 On Behalf of Absent Designers, Brief the Pattern Cutters in specific detail on the methods required to achieve the Shape and Fit Characteristics.

Review any Toile made from the First Pattern before sending to the Designer for Detailed Appraisal of the Fit and Style Handwriting.

Do Not waste Time or Materials on ILL Defined requests, which the Designer is likely to reject.

5 Re Brief Pattern Cutters Post Toile Assessment and then Fit The Final Garment, checking the Declared Measurements and the Construction Details.

Fit on a Real Person to assess the garment suitability to be forward to the Designer (complete with accurately completed Fit Log and Measurement details).

6 Monitor New Design Garments during their Final Make Up to ensure that the Finished Garment will be Perfect in Fit, Balance and Finish by ensuring the machinists present them for Modeling at each of the 'Body Shell', 'Collar & Lapel' and Sleeve & Pad Stages.

7 Photograph all New Final Garments and Add to the Webb Pages for use in the Colour Catalogue. Pass the Garment to the Costing Team and the Product Screening / Risk Analysis Team before it’s Delivering to the Designer, complete with the correct Product Costing and Fit Log.