Optimising the Use of Sewing Jigs.

Optimising the Use of Sewing Jigs

19^th August 2002

Preamble.

This Report proposes a Procedure for use by Designers and Pattern Developers which Optimises the use of All Types of Existing Sewing Jigs beyond the Original Style for which they were developed.

Benefit to the Business.

First Samples and Contract Seals could be made using Sewing Jigs, providing the opportunity to offer the Best Representation of New Products to the customer.

This would bring the objective ‘To Replicate the Production Process during Product Development’ one stage nearer to the optimal.

It would simplify the making of First Samples and Contract Seals through the use of semi automation.

Optimising the use of existing Jigs would amortise the cost of those Jigs, purchased at some £1000 to £1500 per set, over a larger production quantity than just from one style.

Limitations on the Design Process.

With an extensive ‘Library of Jigs’ available to Design into, there should be little or no ‘Limitations’ set, particularly if underwritten by a caveat that ‘Any missing shapes can always be provided’ and then added to the Jig Library for future re-use.

• Round Front Jigs would be stored by Length as these Jigs need to fit from Lapel to Top Button to Hem and from Lapel to Back Neck for the Collar Jig Set

• Square Front Jigs do not have this length limitation and would just need to fit from Lapel to Top Button and from Lapel Neck to Back Neck for the Collar Jig Set

• Straight & Square Front Jigs with Round Necks for Nehru Collars also do not have this length limitation and would just need to fit from the Front Neck to Back Neck for the Collar Jig Set.

Disciplines Required by All Design and Pattern Development Staff

With a Web Product Data Management System Based Library of Jig References, complete with the Designers Original Sketch attached to its Original Style Reference, the process would require:

The Designer:

To 'Visually Scan’ the Web based ‘Jig Library’ for the ‘Nearest Shape’ to that required for the new style and Record its Reference Number on the New Style Summary Page in WEB PDM.

The Pattern Developer:

Select the Master Size Pattern Pieces stored under the chosen Jig Reference Number and copy over the Front Edges of the Front, the Facing and the Full Collar Pieces onto the New Pattern under development for the New Style.

When making a New Pattern, set out to ensure that the Key Pattern areas for the New Style conformed exactly to the Jig Pattern Pieces. (Back Neck – Front Neck and Lapel – Front Edge Shape).

In the case of a Round Front Style, the Jacket Pattern Length will be need to be determined by the Prescribed Length of the Selected Jig Patterns, first working out the Pattern’s Front Length, then onto the Side Length and finally establishing the Back Length.

In the case of a Square Front Style, any Jacket Pattern Length can be used provided that it is within the overall length of the Selected Sewing Jig. The Top Button Position From the Front Neck Point must remain in the Same Position of the Style from which the Jig Design originally came. This will ensure that the Collar still fits correctly and the Lapel Shape and Roll Line can still be pressed in correctly.

The Machinist During Product Development:

The Sewing Jigs registered in the Web Jig Library will need to be made available for use by the Product Development Machinist, at least in the Master Size (Ladies Size 12 for Standard Fit – 24 for Plus Fit).

The Machinist will be required to use the prescribed Jig, ensuring that it is ‘Fit for Fabric’ and adding any relevant comments concerning the use of that Jig in the Sample Make up notes to be recorded in WEB PDM.

Some Issues which could Inhibit the use of Jigs in a Library:

Future Changes Made to Block Pattern such that it is now impossible to fit the Jig Shape from Neck to Front Edge and Hem. ( The Pattern Developer may be able to introduce Front Neck Darts or Panel Seams to compensate for the Block Pattern Shape Change, within reason and allowed by the Designer )

Future Changes Made to Grading Rules over the size range could negate the use of anything but the Master Jigs.

Future Change of Manufacturing Method

Unintentional Damage to the Jig Set during a previous Manufacturing Run.