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Retail Training - c. 2009 - Running Order
Opening Comments
Why Change Fit?
Lifestyle changes
People are bigger and % obesity increasing
Aspirations for better qualities includes fit
Competition getting stronger
Done so far
Size Surveys
Block Pattern Control - In House?
Design Team Strengths
Designers & Technologists develop Fit together
Customers Said at the Time:
Do Not Fit well (62%)
Small Fitting (65%)
Competitors Fit Better (46%)
Can't Get Size I Want (67%)
We have moved on:
Model – Wearing a Suit
What is Fit - Title Slide - Three Basic Issues:
Making you Feel Good by ‘Looking Good’
Being ‘Comfortable’ but not too large
Wearing the Fabric – Stretch / Tight / Loose / Smart
Balance
- Vertical and Lateral- Angles and Shapes
Darting and Ease
Seam Shapes
- Body Contours
Fashion Lines
Silhouettes
Armhole Sizes
- Small or Large
Narrow or Broad
Sleeve Shapes
- Straight or Curved
Narrow or Wide
Long or Short
Confusions
- Large under Small
Short under Long
Blouse falling Back - Jacket Sitting Forward
Low Armhole Blouse in High Armhole Jacket
Large Cuff Blouse in Small Cuff Jacket
Upper Garment to Lower Garment
Lower Garments
Balance
- Tipping and Starring
Front to Back
Hips and Stride
Angled Waists
Angles
- Waist to Front & Back
Side Seams
Back & Front into Body
Leg Shapes
Darting
- Fit the Body or Styling
Dart or Seam
Seaming
- Body Line or Styling
Waistline
- Raised or Lowered
Straight or Curved
Angled or Straight
Hang or Swing
- Torso Stance
- Clean Front v. Clean Back.
Confusions
- Low Rise & Big Waists
Long Rise / Short Rise
Clean Rise / Sitting
Too Many Shapes in Same Range
Big Skirt under small Jacket
Perceptions of Body and Size
Clothes and Body do not relate
Stance and Posture
Non Standard Body
Time of Month
Foundation Garments
Body Measurement Survey
- 2500 People 17 to 50yrs.
Show Board of Measures.
Show Slides
Perceived Hight Slide
Perceived Inside Leg
Height – 31% Short – 43% Standard – 22% Long
Effect of Age on Height
Heel Height for Day and Evening Wear
Show Boards – Body Shapes
Block Patterns and Grading Board.
Effect of Styling on Fit Board of Collars.
Three Slides of Block Patterns
Jackets
Trousers
Skirts
New Blocks versus Old. – Model
Show Garments
Model Garments - Old Blazer (DB 197) and Trouser (TR01) and Skirt (SK1)
New Slim Block (JDVL1) and Trouser
New Chenille Jacket (JDVL6)
Sartorial Suit
Some Blocks used for Jackets
Slim
Classic
Shirt
Fitted
Re – Store Knowledge Training - c. 2009
Ladies Tailoring Information
General Terminology
Product Categories
Product Categories
Suits
Suits
Stand alone - which are sold to be mixed and matched by size (Jacket Trouser, Skirt)
Essential - which are sold to be mixed and matched by style and size (Standard & Maxi Jacket, Short & Long Skirt and Trouser say)
Co-ordinated Separates - pieces which are sold individually or in any combination of tops and bottoms.
Suit Price Points
Suit Price Points
£ 50.00 Suit Range – 100% Polyester
£ 75.00 Suit Range – 100% Polyester
£110.00 Suit Range - Poly Viscose Lycra (PVL), Poly Wool Lycra (PWL)
£150.00 Suit Range – Fine Wool (Woolmark), Wool Blends
Stand Alone Jackets
Blazer
Chenille Classic
Single Breasted
Double Breasted
Cardigan Neck (Round, ‘V’, Funnel)
Biker (Zip Front)
Button Through or Fly Front
Long or Short Sleeved or Sleeveless
Fully Lined, Half Lined, Buggy Lined, Unlined)
Short Length, Standard Length, Maxi Length or Coat Length
Jacket Features
Jacket Features
Collar / Revere
Step or Peak Lapel
Nehru or Stand Collar
Welt Pocket
Double Jet & Flap – Straight & Slant
Flap & Single Jet – Straight & Slant
Patch Pocket
Plain Back - Side Vents – Centre Vent
Plain or Vented Cuff – with or without Button & Sham Buttonhole
Bluff Edges, Machine Stitched or ‘AMF’ Mock Hand Stitched
Stand alone Skirts (To co-ordinate with Jackets)
Straight
Pencil
‘A’ Line
Tulip
All Round Pleated
Kick Pleat
Vent, Slit or Gore (Insert)
Stand alone Trousers
Plain Front
Pleated Front
Straight Leg
Parallel Leg
Boot Leg
Flares
Drainpipes
Cropped (Clam Diggers – Peddle Pushers – ¾ Leg Etc)
Shorts
Waist, Pocket & Hem Finishes
Straight Waistband
Curved Waistband (Two, Four or Six Piece)
Basque Waist
No Waistband
'Petersham' Waistband
Tie Waist
Elasticated (Full, Back, Side Panels)
Stretch Waistband (Straight or Curved)
Waistband Plain (or Flush) End – Extension End (Square or Mitred)
Fastening with Button & Buttonhole + Inside Jigger Button or Hook & Bar
Single or Double Hook & Bar fastening.
Inside Knitted Loop & Jigger Button (Plain Top with Zip through to waist)
Side Pockets (In Seam, Quarter, 45 %, 30%, Frog Mouth, Cash or Ticket (in waist seam)
Back Pockets (Single Jet, +Button, Double Jet, Welt, With Flap, Patch
Plain Bottoms
Turn Ups – (PTU {Permanent Turn Up} / Cuffs)
Side Slits
Stepped Hem
Dresses (To compliment the Suit Ranges)
Sleeved
Sleeveless
Strappy
Shift
Centre Back Zip or Side Zip
Slip Over
Tops (To compliment the Suit Ranges)
Camisole
Bodice
Slip
Side Zip (Fitted Styles) or Slip Over
Fit and Sizing
All Garments in Ladies Departments are developed from ‘Block Patterns’, which are used to control the size and shape within a product category.
Jacket Pattern Blocks
Classic Single Breasted
Classic Double Breasted
Classic Cardigan
Contemporary Single Breasted (Closer Fit with Slimmer Sleeve)
Slim
Extra Slim
Trouser Blocks
Classic Slim Leg – Darted – Rigid Fabric
Classic Slim Leg – Darted – Stretch Fabric
Classic Straight Leg – Pleated
Dropped Waist Boot Leg
Skirt Blocks
Classic Straight
Bias Cut
Dress Blocks
Sleeved
Sleeveless
Strappy
Sizing
Jackets
By British Standards Institution (BSI) Sizing Designation:
8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24 Standard Fit
8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24 Petite Fit
8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24 Long Fit
Short Length – 65cm (Various)
Standard Length – 76cm
Maxi Length – 85cm
Coat Lengths – 95 to 100cm (Various)
Dresses
By British Standards Institution (BSI) Sizing Designation:
8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24 Standard Fit
8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24 Petite Fit
+ Skirt Lengths in Inches – Upper Body determines need for Standard or Petite + Length Option
Skirts
8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24 Standard Fit
18, 21, 24, 27, 29, 33, 35, 37, 39inch Lengths – Length Chosen by Standard, Petite or Long Customer
Trousers
8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24 Standard Fit
68, 74, 80cm Leg Lengths on standard ankle widths
70, 76, 82cm Leg Lengths on ankle widths 44cm and over
Leg Lengths to compliment the Petite, Standard and Long Body Fittings
Fibres, Fabrics and Finishes
Example Types:
100% Wool
100% Washable Wool
100% Linen
100% Cotton
100% Polyester
Wool 96% / Lycra 4%
Wool 88% / Polyamide 8% / Lycra 4%
Wool 85% / Nylon 15%
Polyester 67% / Viscose 33%
Cotton 52% / Polyamide 48%
Polyester / Viscose / Lycra
Chenille
Wool / Mohair
Mouflon
Moleskin
Flannel
Panama
Weaves:
Plain Weave
Basket or Hopsack
Birdseye
Stripe
Herringbone
Check
Puppy, Dog or Hounds Tooth
Twill
Jacquard
Border Jacquard
Finishes
Crease Resistant Finish
Decatised (Heat Set Memory)
Pleating Finish (for All Round Pleated Skirts)
Special Care and Typical Complaints
Special Care
Dry Clean Only – Must be cleaned by a specialist cleaner
Hand Wash – a gentle process to avoid surface damage or creasing
Drip Dry (Rather than Tumble) – to avoid the effects of shrinkage and / or pilling
Machine Wash + Tumble Dry – robust fabric which will take aggressive cleaning and benefit from the softening effects of the Tumble process without producing Shrinkage or Pilling.
Some Typical Problems
Pilling (Soft Woollens & Flannels) – (Mostly Trouser Cross Fork)
Snagging (Clicking) - (Twills and Sateen Weaves)
Creasing (Linens and Fine Wool’s)
Shrinkage or Extension (Various)
Seam Slippage or Grinning (Loose or Open Weaves)
Seam Breakdown (Fabric Splitting) – (Mostly Vents and Trouser / Skirt Jigger Buttons)
Dropping (Viscose / Acetate)
Departmental Brands
Departments
Buisness and Formal Wear
Occasion and Party Wear
Informal Day Wear
Casual wear
Designer Brands
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