13. Basic Shorts Draft

SHORTS CUTTING

There are many designs of shorts to be seen on the market these days, from the perfectly plain boyish cut to the multi-pleated, one-piece shorts dresses combining shorts and bodice in one. Other shorts are cut on the skirt principle and resemble a flared skirt in wear, while others have pleats at the side and centre front to disguise the shorts appearance.

The addition of hip yokes from which emanate knife and inverted pleats is a feature of interest, and the author proposes to describe shorts cutting from the plain styles to the one-piece designs.

Shorts are one of the offending garments from the fitting point of view. Unless they are really well cut, they can present an extremely inelegant appearance, and the author, for one, must heartily concur with the expressions of disapproval heard. The. fact remains, however, that shorts can be cut to hang perfectly straight at the back and front from the waistband without a surplus quantity of loose material at the seat seam, and also cut to disguise almost entirely the fact that the garment has legs.

Basic Shorts System

The basic system is derived from the trousers system, and therefore the majority of the points are familiar.

Measures for the draft are as for the trousers system:

• Waist = 26 inches.

• Hips = 37 inches.

• Body rise = 11½ inches.

• Side-seam length = 18 inches.

• Leg length, calculated by subtracting the body-rise length from the side-seam length = 9 inches.

• Width of bottoms = 24 inches.

• Working scale = half the hip measure = 18½ inches.

To draft—

Square from X.

• 1 from X = the body-rise length = 11½ inches plus a seam.

• 2 from X = the side-seam length plus a seam = 18¾ inches.

• Square out from the above points.

• 3 from 1 = one-fourth of the hip measure plus ½ inch.

• Square up from 3 to 4 on the line squared out from X.

• 5 from 3 = ½ inch.

• Join 5 to 4.

• 6 from 3 = one-sixth of the scale plus ½ inch.

• Shape the fork run from 4 to 6.

• 7 from 3 = one-sixth of the scale.

• Square down from 7 to 8, intersecting the line from 2.

• 9 from 8 = one-fourth of the bottom width less ¼ inch.

• 10 from 8 = one-fourth of the bottom width less ¼ inch.

• 11 from 4 = one-fourth of the waist measure plus ½ inch.

• 12 from 4 = ½ inch. Shape from 11 to 12.

• 13 from X = 8 inches for the hip level.

• Square out from 13 to 14 and shape the side-seam from 11 to 13 and 10.

Shape the inside leg seam from 6 to 9 to complete the drafting of the topsides.

THE UNDERSIDES

The outline of the topsides is indicated by the dash lines. To draft the undersides—

• 15 from 3 for the seat angle = one-third of the waist measure.

• 16 from 3 = 1 inch.

• Line the seat angle through from 16 to 15 and 17.

• 17 is 1 inch above the waist line from 11 to 4.

• 18 from 17 = one-fourth of the waist measurement plus 2 inches for two ¼-inch seams and 1½-inch back waist dart at 20 to 21.

• From where point 18 is located, square back to locate definitely point 17 on the seat-angle line.

• 19 from 18 = one-sixth of the scale.

• 20 from 19 = ½ inch.

• 21 from 19 = ½ inch, making up the 1 inch allowed for the dart.

• Shape the dart from 20 and 21 to 22 - 5½ inches in length.

• 23 from 15 = half the hips measure plus 2 inches for ease and seams, i.e. 20½ inches, less the distance from 13 to 14.

• 24 from 10 = 1 inch.

• Shape the side seams from 18 to 23 and 24.

• By pivoting from 9, sweep from 6 to 25, making the distance 2 inches.

• 26 from 9 = 1 inch.

• Shape the inside leg seam from 25 to 26.

A side plaquet opening is inserted in either the left or both side-seams, fastening with holes and buttons or a zip-fastener.