Tsugaru Kogin Zashi
(津軽こぎん刺し)
“Wandering on a quiet and cold street in Hirosaki, beautiful and warm embroidery in a show window caught my eyes.”
- Toko Mori
“Wandering on a quiet and cold street in Hirosaki, beautiful and warm embroidery in a show window caught my eyes.”
- Toko Mori
More than 300 years ago in the Edo period, the local government of the Tsugaru region allowed the farmers to wear only clothes made of hemp, not cotton or silk. It was due to the harshly cold climate of Tsugaru which is unsuitable for growing cotton and the governmental prohibition of the farmer’s usage of expensive clothes. However, clothes made of hemp are too rough to protect farmers from the severe coldness. So, the farmer women embroidered fine patterns into several pieces of hemp cloth to keep warm air inside and to strengthen delicate hemp cloth. Moreover, the government banned the farmers’ usage of colorful clothes in 1808, but it consequently led to the conservation of a beautiful contrast of indigo-dyed hemp cloth and white embroidery. After the Meiji period, clothes made of cotton started to prevail in the Tohoku area and the culture of Kogin Zashi diminished. However, the culture preservation campaigns in the Showa period succeeded in registering 784 pieces of Kogin Zashi as nationally important cultural properties, and now the tradition, warmth, and uniqueness of Tsugaru Kogin Zashi are widely appreciated by people through those on modern fabric items, too.
To the world, Tsugaru Kogin Embroidery pattern
KOGIN embroidery
English sites for more information
Tsugaru Koubousya. (n.d.). Kogin-Zashi. https://tsugarukoubousya.com/kogin-zashi/
Japanese Traditional Culture Promotion & Development Organization. (n.d.). Kogin-zashi: Kogin embroidery. https://www.jtco.or.jp/en/japanese-crafts/?act=detail&id=223
Textile Research Centre. (2016, October 1). Kogin Zashi. https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-needles/regional-traditions/east-asia/japan/kogin-zashi
Online shops of Tsugaru Kogin Zashi
Tsugaru Koubousya. https://tugarukoubousya.com/ (Japanese only)
You can buy needles, cloth, threads, designs, and kits of Kogin Zashi to make it by yourself.
Hirosaki Kogin Institute Online Shop. https://tsugaru-kogin.square.site/ (Japanese only)
You can buy accessories, bags, and poaches with Kogin Zashi.
[Recommended!]
Green. https://japantravel.navitime.com/en/area/jp/spot/02301-pn0001245/ (English travel site)
Hirosaki Kogin Institute. (n.d.). Tsugaru Kogin Zashi ni tsuite [About Tsugaru Kogin Zashi]. https://tsugaru-kogin.jp/about-kogin
Nakagawa Masashichi Shouten. (n.d.). Kogin Zashi to wa “Kinshi” kara umareta yukiguni no chie to design [What is Kogin Zashi? Wisdom and design in a snowy region born from “prohibition”]. https://story.nakagawa-masashichi.jp/craft_post/116841
Naniwa, K. (2024). Aomori ken Tsugaru chihou no “Kogin zashi” — Noumin josei no chie to kufuu ga tsunagu mono [“Kogin Zashi” in Tsugaru, Aomori — What female farmers’ wisdom and ingenuity pass down]. http://g.kyoto-art.ac.jp/reports/7187/
Tsugaru no teshigoto promotion iinkai [Promotion committee of handcrafts in Tsugaru]. (2018, March). Tsugaru Kogin Zashi. https://www.pref.aomori.lg.jp/soshiki/kenmin/ch-renkei/files/koginnsashi_map