Ginzan Onsen

銀山温泉

@photo by Rick Ito

Historical Background

(Ginzan Onsen, 2024)

Meiji Period

Ginzan Onsen is located in a mountainous area about 12 kilometers off the Oshu Kaido. At the time, it was accessible only from narrow, rough roads, taking a full day of difficult travel from Obanazawa, which was the closest city. After the bubble of the Enzawa Silver Mine popped due to silver depletion, the population drastically decreased. However, in this secluded mountain paradise, people made a living by running inns for hot spring visitors and engaging in small-scale commerce.

Taisho Period

There was a hot spring area lined with single-story wooden houses with thatched roofs and two-story inns. However, in Taisho 2 (1913), a massive flood of the Ginzan River swept away most of the hot spring inns. Following this disaster, the hot spring usage did not increase, as the water flow was minimal, river water had infiltrated, and the temperature was low. In Taisho 10 (1921), a hydroelectric power plant utilizing the water from the Ginzan River was constructed, marking the beginning of the area's recovery.

Showa Era

In the first year of the Showa era, a high-temperature, abundant hot spring was discovered through well drilling. As a result, all the inns in the area were reconstructed into 3- to 4-story wooden Western-style buildings. Infrastructure improvements, including bridges and roadside maintenance, were also made, allowing access to the area from Obanazawa by car in just 30 minutes. In 1985, the Nobeoka Silver Mine Ruins were designated as a National Historic Site. After World War II, the modernization of the hot spring town calmed down, and the architectural style shifted back to a more Japanese aesthetic. To preserve the charm of the historic ryokan (traditional inns), the "Ginzan Onsen Streetscape Preservation Ordinance" was enacted in 1986, revitalizing tourism. In 1999, the extension of the bullet train line increased the number of tourists, and to this day, the town continues its efforts to maintain its traditional hot spring atmosphere.

Characteristics

Ginzan Onsen is a retro-style hot spring town that feels like a step back in time. Traditional wooden ryokan line both sides of the Ginzan River. At dusk, gas lamps light up, creating a nostalgic Japanese atmosphere that is often compared to the setting of the film Spirited Away. It is also famous as a filming location for the beloved Japanese TV drama Oshin. The most photogenic scene is a snowy night when the snow-covered townscape glows warmly under the streetlights.

A daytime stroll through the town is equally charming. Colorful kote-e (plaster relief art) adorns the walls of the ryokan, and snowflake-patterned tiles are embedded in the asphalt. Visitors can soak their feet in the "Waraku Ashiyu" footbath, which uses natural hot spring water directly from the source, offering a unique hot spring town experience. The area is also home to numerous cafes, street food stalls, and souvenir shops, making it a lively spot for sightseeing. Visitors can even rent Taisho-era Western-style clothing to stroll through the picturesque townscape, which makes for memorable photos.

Despite being a secluded hot spring village surrounded by deep snow, Ginzan Onsen is highly accessible. It can be reached in about three hours from Tokyo via the Yamagata bullet train, followed by a 40-minute direct bus ride.