All Photos by Sawa Sato
Dadacha-mame is a locally grown green soybean (edamame) that can only be harvested from particular areas in Tsuruoka, Yamagata. It first started being grown by several local farmers in Shirayama, one of the suburban areas of Tsuruoka city in the Edo period and the techniques of production have been passed down from generation to generation over one hundred years until now. It is also widely known that it started to be called “dadacha-mame” because the feudal lord asked his subordinates “which dadacha (it means “a father” or “a head of the family” in Shonai dialect) made this?” when he got extremely surprised at its sophisticated taste when he first ate dadacha-mame back in the Edo period. Since then it has been a symbolic vegetable for people living in the Shonai area and has been introduced by multiple media. (Kiyokawaya, 2024)
Dadacha-mame at first glance looks just like an ugly little green soybean with a lot of brown fuzz which does not necessarily make it look appetizing. But once you taste it, you cannot stop eating it, getting addicted to its rich flavor and unbelievable sweetness. It indeed has more alanine and free amino acid than ordinary edamame which increases its umami and sweetness. (Tsuruoka City, 2024)
There have been countless farmers living in other districts trying to grow dadacha-mame in their areas too, but none of them could realize it as dadacha-mame can only be grown in the soil of Tsuruoka city, a part of Shonai plain. The soil in the Tsuruoka area, especially Shirayama (the birthplace of Dadacha-mame) is a depleted sandy soil and is favored by rhizobia, which is an essential bacteria for growing beans. On top of that, there is a river called Yujirigawa in the Shirayama area and the morning haze from the river plays a crucial role in moisturizing the beans and keeping umami inside the beans. Dadacha-mame is a very picky and sensitive variety and thus only the soil in the Tsuruoka area can fully bring out its flavor. (Kiyokawaya, 2024)
Dadacha Recipes
Edamame is usually served boiled and salted but when it comes to dadacha-mame, you will be amazed at the wide variety of the recipes that we can enjoy.
One of the most popular homemade foods using dadacha-mame in Tsuruoka would be dadacha rice which is a mixed rice that only uses dadacha-mame and several seasonings. You can take all the beans out from the pod shells and put them on top of the rice when you cook rice. Some people like to add soy sauce and sake, but some like to just add salt, and the recipes are slightly different depending on each family. (Tsuruoka Creative City of Gastronomy Promotion Committee, n.d.)
Since dadacha is famous for its sweetness, Tsuruoka city has been working on producing various kinds of dadacha sweets such as dadacha gelato, dadacha snacks, and dadacha ice cream. Those dadacha-mame sweets are available at many places in Tsuruoka city, especially during summer and you can try the best quality dadacha ice cream even at izakaya (Japanese style dining bar). Shinsui 心粋 , for example, is one of those bars in Tsuruoka serving dadacha-mame ice cream (the photo above). You can also try some dadacha-mame shaved ice cream (the photo above) at some cafe (Cafe Arx) in Tsuruoka.
Now, it’s your turn to try Dadacha-mame!
As it is mentioned above, dadacha-mame is a locally grown variety and its circulation is strictly managed by dadacha-mame liaison council (鶴岡地域だだちゃ豆生産者組織連絡協議会) which consists of farmer’s union, JA (Japan Agricultural Cooperatives) Tsuruoka, and Tsuruoka city government. There are 8 official brands of dadacha-mame which dadacha-mame liaison council acknowledges: (1) Komagi, (2) Wase Kanro, (3)Wase Shirayama,
(4) Shirayama (Honmame), (5) Bansei Kanro, (6) Hirata, (7) Bansei Shirayama, and (8) Oura. They are in the order of the harvest and the first one, Komagi, generally starts to be harvested in the end of July and others follow in order and this dadacha season lasts until the middle of September. (Tsuruoka City, 2024)
The easiest way to get dadacha-mame is to go to sanchoku (farmers’ market) in Tsuruoka and it is recommended that you go there in the morning as most of the popular varieties like Shirayama might be sold out by noon (or even earlier). Even if you cannot visit the farmers’ market directly, you can also order it from the online website of JA Tsuruoka. The price greatly depends on the season and varieties, but it generally costs around 1000 yen per a bag of dadacha-mame.
Edamame Farm | Japanese Superfood Snack Adventure ★ ONLY in JAPAN
(English)
Edamame Recipe - Japanese Cooking 101
Special Food’from the City of Tsuruoka in Yamagata Prefecture DINNER EVENT(試食イベント)を開催しました
2022年10月 A mother and son making edamame in Tsuruoka, a UNESCO creative city of food and culture.
(Japanese)
SAVOR JAPAN -TSURUOKA YAMAGATA-
(English)
Tsuruoka Yamagata Vegetables and Fruits fair 2024 / @natural natural London
Food in Japan. (2023). Edamame. https://www.foodinjapan.org/japan/edamame/
Kiyokawaya. (2024). Gimon kaiketsu! Dadacha-mame toha? Edamame tono tigai, saibai, syukaku jiki ha? [What is Dadacha-mame? How is it different from edamame? The way of production and the season of the ingathering]. https://www.kiyokawaya.com/yamagata/34277/
Tsuruoka Creative City of Gastronomy Promotion Committee. (n.d.). Dadachamame rice. https://www.creative-tsuruoka.jp/ouchigozen/recipe_all/043.html
Tsuruoka City. (2024). Tsuruoka yurai no edamame dadacha-mame [Originated from Tsuruoka: Dadacha-mame]. https://www.city.tsuruoka.lg.jp/sangyo/nourinsuisan/88dadatya.html