Covering the wheel or just throwing directly on the wheel. Traditionalists leave the wheel uncovered and remove the piece immediately after throwing by cutting off (see throwing tools). Modernists use a bat to cover the wheel held on with either bat pins or a clay pad thrown on the wheel. Bats can be made of plywood, molded plastic, masonite, hardboard, vinyl tile and even tarpaper. The wheel came with bat pins so I started to throw with bats.
A dozen 12 inch Speedball plastic bats were initially purchased but typically only use 6 for throwing and have converted one to a trim bat.
A 3/8 inch hole was drill into the bat where bat pins are inserted so the pin is visible when placing on the wheel. It is not totally necessary but it helps find the pin.
Four-14 inch plastic bats were purchased. One for a trim bat and the remaining for large items. My kiln size limits the diameter of the pot to 15 inches. I have only used one of the extra large bats. Probably only needed to order 2 extra large bats.
Additional bats were made from white hardboard (Homedepot). I looked for 3/8" masonite but could not find. There was 1/4" fake wood flooring but not very stiff for removing the pottery.
Hardboard comes in 4x8 feet sheets producing bats for about $0.50 each.
A 5 gallon bucket lid was used to draw the circle.
Use a scroll saw or saber saw to cut the circle then drill a 3/8" holes for the pin.
Either grind down bat pins or use 2 bats to build bats to the top of pins.
Add some water to wheel to provide added hold down suction.
Use a putty knife to lift bat from the wheel.
Store flat to reduce warping.
Hardboard bats are not totally water resistant and will warp after a few months use but for the price they work.
The make your own idea works but in the long run I am back to throwing on the Speedball bats. The hardboard just wore out too fast.
We have all experienced throwing round and loosing roundness as we remove pots from bats or the wheel. Several potters suggest drying the hands will aid in removing the pot from the bat. I have taken a different approach and pre-trim the base of the pot after throwing using compression of the round end ) of my throwing stick and cut a new groove at the base with the point end of the throwing stick. The groove is for the cutoff wire. The compressed area gives me a place to hold with dry index finger and thumb of both hands when I lift the pot from the bat.
Thoughts and hacks
Ideally own enough bats so you do not need to remove pot when wet.
For mugs and tea bowls they may be removed after a 5 to 10 minutes air dry time without distortion. Cutoff bat then use dry thumb and forefinger of both hands to grab ( groove at base and lift.
Bowls will need extended drying unless you do the hat trick.
Hat trick. Place bat with new bowl in front of box fan on medium for 5 to 10 minutes. Cut hat from cardstock paper (90 to 120 lb) to the dimension of bowl. Overlap is good but kill another minute to make an even cut. Place hat on top of bowl and seal by lightly rubbing paper with finger. Make sure the hat is stuck down. If it does not stick moisten rim with damp sponge. Cut bowl off bat and immediately remove by grabbing the bowl base with index finger and thumb of both hands and lift. Remove hat and smooth rim with damp sponge. Video showing Hat trick.
Heat gun treatment is a fast way to harden clay for pot removal. I seldom use the heat gun and opt for the hat trick.
Added bonus of the ( groove comes when trimming and defining the depth of trim. Works great when the top of pot is not even so the bottom wobbles when trimming.