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September 27, 2023
National Hispanic Heritage Month
Gabriela Cámara is a Mexican chef, who opened a restaurant called “Contramar” in Mexico City in 1998. She is an activist on the Farm to Table concept and preserving the Mexican traditional crops, such as heirloom corns. The modern industrial agriculture has increased food production and promoted the innovative tool and technology development; however, it has lead to crop diversity loss, significant impacts to small business agriculture, and negative environmental impacts. Gabriela explains that traditional heirloom corns are not commonly produced in Mexico any more, and many Mexican workers seasonally migrate to United States, making very few workers available for Mexican agriculture.
I recently watched the Gabriela’s MasterClass, which she described the traditional Mexican tortillas. She explained how it was traditionally made. I was so impressed. It is so culture rich, and I now want to travel to Mexico to taste the tortillas that are made from scratch.
Materials from MasterClass
What is Masa?
Masa de maíz is a corn dough used to make tortillas, tamales, atole, pupusas, gorditas, and many more Latin American dishes. Making masa involves nixtamalizing corn kernels by soaking them in an alkaline solution (such as wood ash, cal, or lye) and then grinding them, traditionally by hand but more often by machine. Masa harina is a dried version of fresh masa.
Nixtamalization
The nixtamalization process is the first step in making masa. It’s a technique Mesoamericans perfected centuries ago: Soak dried corn kernels in a mixture of water and cal, or calcium hydroxide—also known as slaked lime or pickling lime (readily available in many spice shops or online)—until they become soft enough to grind in a mill. The nixtamalized kernels are called hominy.
“Nixtamalization is a process by which the proteins [in corn] become readily accessible for humans.” — Gabriela Cámara
During the process of nixtamalization, the alkali works to increase the bioavailability of niacin (vitamin B3). Nixtamalized corn has more nutritional value than cornmeal or corn flour, making it an excellent staple food.
Photo: DYLAN + JENI
Heirloom Corn
Heirloom corn refers to native varieties of corn. While the United States primarily grows a monoculture of bright yellow sweet corn, Mexican heirloom varieties come in red, blue, purple, white, or multicolored. Every type has different levels of sugar, starch, and protein. This biodiversity translates to a bounty of recipe options, which Gabriela considers when choosing corn to cook.
“Diversity is one of the most important things to have in mind when one thinks of how to eat, because the most varied diets give you more of the nutritious elements that your body needs.”— Gabriela Cámara
Gabriela uses different corns for different preparations—starchier corns, for example, will make for a fluffier masa, while more fibrous corns lead to a heartier masa; one corn might be better suited to an atole (a hot masa-based drink) than a tortilla.
Types of Corns for Masa
Gabriela is a champion of using organic heirloom varieties of dried corn to make her masa, meaning you’ll have to avoid the generic or genetically modified breeds found at most supermarkets. For truly high-quality masa, you’ll need to seek out dried corn from a responsible source. Here are Gabriela’s recommendations:
Tamoa: Tamoa is a company that partners with traditional farmers in Oaxaca to grow, source, and offer the highest-quality single-origin corn; it sells a variety of colors and breeds online (try the berry-colored Blue Cónico or the slightly sweet Olotillo).
Rare Seeds: Rare Seeds is a company that offers several heirloom corns grown in Mexico and the United States, including ruby-hued Papa’s Red; its counterpart, Papa’s Blue; and Chapalote, the oldest variety cultivated in America.
Grocery stores: Specialty grocers and Latin markets may also have heirloom corn. Develop a relationship with the staff at your local markets and ask questions to get the best product.
Why Make Masa from Scratch
“No tortilla that you heat up will ever be as good as homemade,” Gabriela says. The difference between a fresh tortilla and a store-bought tortilla manifests in several ways.
Homemade tortillas smell sweet and earthy and have a flexible texture—and nothing compares to the pleasure of eating them hot and fresh off the stove. “Making a homemade tortilla just communicates more care into a meal that you’re going to serve,” Gabriela says. “For us Mexicans, it takes you to so many memories because a good meal in Mexico is always accompanied by good tortillas.”
If you are interested in making masa and tortilla, Gabriela shows her recipe here.
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