We were on our way from Vanrhynsdorp to Springbok when Philip decided to detour via Hondeklip Bay (Dog Stone Bay). We refuelled in Garies and had travelled about 14km when Philip suddenly realised that the fuel cap may not have been replaced and stopped George to check. Guess what - it was missing! We returned to Garies and found the fuel cap on top of the Diesel bowser where it had been placed while refuelling – Thank goodness!
Hondeklip Bay is a delightful little fishing village that was negatively impacted by the diamond mining which dominated this coast. The crayfish factory closed years ago when they started mining off-shore and impacted the crayfish habitat. The diamond mining has since stopped and the village still struggles along.
We visited the Aristea Shipwreck near Honderklip Bay before heading North.
We took the coastal road via the De Beers mining concession road (via Koiingnaas, Kleinsee & Port Nolloth) to Alexander Bay. While literature indicates that a permit is required, we were allowed through the multiple boom gates by showing our Identity Documents. The gravel road between Kleinsee and Port Nolloth was atrocious with extreme corrugations. After what seemed forever, and TOTALLY shaken AND stirred, we stopped to have coffee and the most delicious, moist chocolate cake that I have had for years, at Nemo’s in Port Nolloth. On the menu, there was “crayfish, chips and salad for R150.00”. We thought we would be able to get a similar meal in Alexander Bay so we moved on.
Despite the landscape being very barren and the roads dead straight for kilometre after kilometre, it was interesting to see the De Beer Diamond mining works along this long stretch of coast. Many of the small towns are in a state of disrepair and appeared almost desolate as much of the mining has been stopped.
We arrived in Alexander Bay and were disappointed by it’s lack of character compared to Hondeklip Bay and Port Nolloth. We should have stayed overnight at Port Nolloth where we could have had crayfish for dinner. (We did however, feast on scrumptious, Anura cheese and wine which we had brought with us for just such cases of extreme emergency!) Alexander Bay did not have a restaurant (I did ask). I would not put this town on a ‘must visit’ list.