Build - Universal Work Table

[Aug.15, 2019]

Table for Atlas shaper - this one painted with primer and gray oil-based enamel.

Table for mini-mill - top and shelf were finished with three coats of clear gloss polyurethane.

In this build, I offer a spreadsheet which will calculate the cut lengths needed to build a huge variety of work tables. I call this the "Universal Work Table" because the design is very flexible and can be adjusted to a large range of heights, lengths, and widths. The two work tables above were both built from the same basic design.

The photo to the left shows the work table for my Atlas 7B shaper. For this table, I chose to paint the table with gray enamel (two coats) over gray primer. I also added a lower shelf and a drawer with hardwood slides.

The photo on the left shows another variation. For this table, I left most of the frame unpainted, but I put three coats of clear polyurethane on the top and the lower shelf. I used commercial full-extension slides for the drawer. In addition, I added a backboard of white melamine board to help contain the milling chips.

Building the table

The build starts by cutting nominal 2x4s (actually 1-1/2" x 3-1/2") into lengths defined by the spreadsheet below. Note that for each defined section there are four pieces.

The work bench the pieces are sitting on was built with a similar design to the one shown in this build. However, the work table was built much earlier, before I standardized on the current design. The main difference in the workbench is that the bench is on casters, and the leg assemblies are bolted on with large lag screws.

The cut sections are assembled first into two sets of legs. One set of legs (partially assembled) is shown in the picture. Note how the longer pieces have been notched out on the table saw - these notches will act as mortises for mortise and tenon joints on the fully assembled table.

The sections are sandwiched together using wood glue and screws. I generally first glue and clamp the pieces into place (making sure they are square). Then I use screws to further strengthen the "sandwich," as well as to clamp the pieces together while the glue sets. Once all of the screws are in, I can remove the clamps and set the assembly aside while I work on the next assembly.

Once the two leg assemblys are completed, I wait at least two hours for the glue to set before proceeding to final assembly.

For final assembly I put the leg sections upside down on my work table and again glue and clamp the side pieces into place. After again checking for squareness, I complete the assembly with screws.

For sandwiching the 2x4s, I use 2-1/2" screws. I typically use one screw for each 6-8" section (for example, 3 screws for 24" section). However, I also use a minimum of two screws for each section, so a 6" section would get two screws.

Where the corners intersect, I use two 3-1/2" screws for each intersection, driving them in at 90 degree angles to each other (and offset so that the two screws do not interfere with each other).

2-1/2" screws for 2x4 "sandwich"

3-1/2" screws for corner join

Here is the completed frame. Note that all of the 2x4s are doubled up. At the top front corner intersection you can see the heads of the two 3-1/2" screws.

Note that all of the 2-1/2" screws are driven in from the inside side to give the outside of the frame a cleaner appearance.

I use a belt sander on the bottom of each leg to even out the end. I also add a chamfer to the edges to help prevent chipping of the edge.

There is a temptation at this point to try to even out the slight wobble in the table due to minor leg length differences. However, unless your work space and the final location are both absolutely level surfaces, this is not worth the effort because you will need to level the table at its final location in any case. I have found that one or two thin cardboard shims under one leg is usually all that is required for leveling.

A bottom shelf can be added if desired. The corners are notched out to fit the legs, and the shelf then simply drops in - no need to fasten it with screws.

This photo shows the underside of the top. I use four cleats on the underside to hold the top in place. The cleats are screwed to the top, but not to the frame. This makes it easy to remove the top for moving, after which the top simply drops into place.

I find it useful to add at least one drawer. Here I use commercially available full-extension drawer slides. Once the basic frame is built, you can customize with as many drawers and shelves as you like, or you can leave these out entirely.

Universal Table Generating Spreadsheet

The spreadsheet below allows you to specify the length, depth, and height of any reasonably sized table. This includes the thickness of whatever top you choose to put on the finished table. If you simply wish to specify the height of the frame, just enter zero for the top thickness. The largest table I have built using this design was 32"W x 80"L x 36" H.

Here is the spreadsheet for calculating the section lengths:

Here are the shaper stand build plans; the plans are for a specific size, but can easily be adapted to other sizes:

It is useful to generate a cut list in order to use the minimum number of uncut 2x4s for the sections you require. I found the online generator below to work very well, but you can probably find others by searching online for "linear cutting list calculator."