Build - Universal Work Table

Building the table

The build starts by cutting nominal 2x4s (actually 1-1/2" x 3-1/2") into lengths defined by the spreadsheet below. Note that for each defined section there are four pieces.

The work bench the pieces are sitting on was built with a similar design to the one shown in this build. However, the work table was built much earlier, before I standardized on the current design. The main difference in the workbench is that the bench is on casters, and the leg assemblies are bolted on with large lag screws.

The cut sections are assembled first into two sets of legs. One set of legs (partially assembled) is shown in the picture. Note how the longer pieces have been notched out on the table saw - these notches will act as mortises for mortise and tenon joints on the fully assembled table.

The sections are sandwiched together using wood glue and screws. I generally first glue and clamp the pieces into place (making sure they are square). Then I use screws to further strengthen the "sandwich," as well as to clamp the pieces together while the glue sets. Once all of the screws are in, I can remove the clamps and set the assembly aside while I work on the next assembly.

Once the two leg assemblys are completed, I wait at least two hours for the glue to set before proceeding to final assembly.

Here is the completed frame. Note that all of the 2x4s are doubled up. At the top front corner intersection you can see the heads of the two 3-1/2" screws.

Note that all of the 2-1/2" screws are driven in from the inside side to give the outside of the frame a cleaner appearance.

I use a belt sander on the bottom of each leg to even out the end. I also add a chamfer to the edges to help prevent chipping of the edge.

There is a temptation at this point to try to even out the slight wobble in the table due to minor leg length differences. However, unless your work space and the final location are both absolutely level surfaces, this is not worth the effort because you will need to level the table at its final location in any case. I have found that one or two thin cardboard shims under one leg is usually all that is required for leveling.

A bottom shelf can be added if desired. The corners are notched out to fit the legs, and the shelf then simply drops in - no need to fasten it with screws.

This photo shows the underside of the top. I use four cleats on the underside to hold the top in place. The cleats are screwed to the top, but not to the frame. This makes it easy to remove the top for moving, after which the top simply drops into place.

I find it useful to add at least one drawer. Here I use commercially available full-extension drawer slides. Once the basic frame is built, you can customize with as many drawers and shelves as you like, or you can leave these out entirely.