Tools - mill lights

LED Lights for Mini-Mill

[March 12, 2013]

[Update March 14, 2013]

I purchased a couple of Janso LED lamps to use with my mini-mill. To the left you can see the two lights (switched on).

In this post I'll provide some detailed information about the lamps, dimensions for making custom mounts, and explain how I made the simple lamp mounts I am using.

I like these lamps for several reasons:

Low cost
Nice bright light
Goose-neck goes almost all of the way to the base (provides more flexibility and "reach")
Easy to make optional mounting brackets (instead of the provided base).

These lamps are big improvement over the lighting I was using before, which was a single Janso lamp with its provided base - the base always seemed to get in the way of what I was doing, and no matter which side of the mill it was on, it seemed like it needed to be on the other side.

Now, with two lamps, I can fully illuminate the work, with no lamp bases sitting on the tabletop gathering swarf. Right now though, I've just got them clamped on. I'll use them that way for a bit to make sure they don't get in the way of any operations. Once I find the ideal position for the bracket, I'll screw them on permanently.

Definitely an improvement.

Mounting the Lamps

The lamps come with a weighted plastic base, but this base just gets in the way (and collects a lot of swarf) when using them with the mill. Instead of using the provided base, I just used a couple of pieces of hardwood from my scrap bin to make a couple of brackets. This works for me because my mill is mounted on a metal table, and I can just screw the brackets to the metal lip of the table.

Here's a sketch of the part of the lamp that connects to the base. I used a 3/4" thick piece of hardwood for my bracket, so the bracket dimensions are based on that.

I did all of the drilling and milling on my mill. I could just as easily have used my drill press, expect that it is in an unheated garage and it's currently 35F. Besides, using an end mill to countersink for the screw and washer was a lot easier with the mill.

The 7/32" holes for the lamp made for a nice snug fit.

Here's a view from below, showing the countersunk hole for the screws and washers.

The bracket is temporarily clamped to the side of the metal table.

Mill table with LED lights on.

Mill table with LED lights off. (Note: Shop lights are still on.)

Mill table with LED lights off.

Mill table with LED lights on.

More About the LED Lamps

The LED lamps I am using are Janso LED lamps - they can be purchased at Ikea stores, or online (I purchased mine online, but you can get them a bit cheaper if you live near an Ikea).

Here is the product description:

Product dimensions Height: 24 " Base diameter: 5 " Cord length: 6 ' 7 " Energy consumption: 4.2W. Built-in LED light bulb. LED life time approx. 25,000 hours. Light color; warm white (3000 Kelvin). Product description Arm: Steel, Paint Shade: Aluminum, Paint Base: ABS plastic Weight: EVA plastic, Cast iron This item requires basic assembly

Here is what the lamp looks like if it is assembled as intended.

By the way - you can get the lamps in either all black or all white.

Here's the lamp in its box.

The open box.

The parts from the box, from left to right, top to bottom:

gooseneck with LED and power cord (note there is an on-off switch built into the cord)
power unit
weight for base
plastic cover for base
stick-on foam pad (under plastic cover)

Here's a close-up of the gooseneck showing the attachment for the base.

What the heck is that base weight made of? It's attracted by a magnet. I tried milling it (see the part of the base at left); it was like milling a cookie - very crumbly.

I tried heating it with a torch (see the part of the base to the right) - it smokes and puffs up a little, and gets even more crumbly.

My best guess is that the base weight is a mixture of iron/steel particles mixed with some kind of plastic and pressed into a mold to "sinter" it together. It can't be machined because the metal particles just tear out of the plastic matrix and the plastic matrix crumbles apart.

It might be possible to re-heat and re-mold it, but I doubt if it's worth the trouble.

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