[Jan. 31, 2017]
As the title indicates, this page is about making piston rings for the Webster engine (see build here). Since making piston rings is a moderately involved process I decided to dedicate a web page to this effort.
For a list of links on making piston rings, go to this link and scroll down to "piston rings." There are a number of different methods for making piston rings; after reading through the various articles, I decided to go with this basic method:
I measured the parts which I had previously made for the Webster engine to get the following dimensions:
Piston O.D. = 0.872"
Piston groove O.D. = 0.773"
Cylinder I.D. = 0.876"
A piece of cylindrical cast iron is chucked in the lath and bored to an I.D. of 0.774" (the O.D. of the ring groove plus 0.004").
The O.D. of the cast iron is then turned to an outside diameter of 0.877" (the cylinder I.D. plus 0.001"), and polished to a close fit in the cylinder.
480 grit abrasive cloth (shown sitting on the headstock) is used to polish the outer diameter to a close fit. During polishing, the outer diameter is checked in three places with a micrometer to ensure even polishing along the length.
After about 10 seconds of polishing, the piece is wiped clean and the cylinder is used to check for fit. Micrometer readings are used to adjust the polishing to make sure it is uniform along the length. With 480 grit abrasive, I found that 10 seconds of polishing removes about 0.0005" (1/2 thou) of diameter.
The rings are cut off with a parting tool (in this case the parting tool had a width of 0.040"). The rings are cut off to the groove width +0.001" (to allow some extra width for final lapping).
Note the very thin ring which parted off just after the ring was parted. A rod chucked up in the tailstock is used to catch the parted rings.
To ensure a good smooth cut, the parting tool was honed with a diamond file prior to use.
Smooth jawed pliers were used to hold the ring and apply bending pressure until the ring snapped. Unlike the angle shown in the picture, I had best results when the pliers were held at a slight upward angle (i.e., plier handles above the snap point).
I tried nicking the ring at the snap point with a fine file, and also scribing a line at the snap point with a carbide scriber but found that neither of these worked any better than doing nothing at all along these lines. Just placing the ring in the vise and snapping it worked well - all seven rings were snapped without breaking the ring.
Correct temperature for heating is 480 - 520 C.
Gap is 15% of ring size. Or - gap = t x 4 where t = radial thickness of ring