Build - Webster Engine

Webster Engine Build Log

THIS PAGE IS A WORK IN PROGRESS.

[Sept. 6, 2014]

[March 28, 2015 - updates]

[Dec. 13, 2022 - updates]

A note of caution about this build log:

I am making some changes in the design of the Webster engine I am building, as compared to the original plans. Until I complete the engine, I won't know for sure whether these changes will work or not, so don't use my design changes unless you are willing to take this risk (I will note [MODIFICATION] in the build log when I have departed from the original plans).

Parts, Raw Materials, and Plans

Major Components

• Baseplate

• Carburetor

• Connecting rod

• Crankshaft

• Cylinder Head Frame

• Cylinder and gasket

• Drip Oiler

• Flywheel

• Gas tank

• Ignition system

• Piston

• Piston Rings

• Rocker arm

• Side Frame and Crankshaft support

• Springs for valve block

• Valve block

• Wrist pin

Tips, Observations, and Suggestions

Found out a few things on the way to completing this build, so I am going to note them here for future reference, and for anyone else who might find them useful:

• Valve stem : Make it out of stainless steel, and not drill rod as suggested in the plans, as drill rod can rust if the engine is left to sit idle. I used 316 stainless and did not find it difficult to turn at all.

• Valve stem : Drilling the hole for the spring retainer pin - you are going to need a #60 drill, and if you are unlucky like me, you are going to break it! Consider getting a spare drill, or a sensitive drill feed, or both.

• Valve block : Consider making the valve block pieces slightly larger (.050" maybe) to better fit the screws holding them together.

Baseplate

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1. Initially I tried clamping the baseplate in the vise to mill the edges (angle plate was used to "stiffen" the plate). This worked for the long edge, but when rotated 90 degrees the short edge to too high to fit into my mini-mill.

2. I tried clamping the plate to the top of the vise for edge milling, but this was not sufficient to keep the plate from shifting.

3. Finally, I removed the vise and clamped the plate directly to the mill table (with a piece of MDF underneath to allow clearance for the end mill). This method worked, but was rather laborious as I had to reposition the plate for each edge, using a dial indicator each time to make sure the previously milled edge was exactly 90 degrees to the edge to be milled. Note that the cut-out section is marked for later cutting; I left it in place until I had drilled all of the holes for mounting the frame, to make it easier to clamp the plate for drilling.

1. The cut out is rough sawed before milling. Again the plate is clamped to the mill table using an MDF "spacer". Note the use of a dial indicator to make sure the plate is clamped "square."

2. The edges of the cut out are milled smooth, after which all of the top edges of the plate are chamfered using a 90 degree point angle end mill (to produce a 45 degree chamfer).

Connecting Rod

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To facilitate making the conrod, I first drew up a full size template. I like to use rubber cement to attach the template, but spray glue or double-sided tape will also work. With the template attached, the workpiece was rough sawed to size, and then the two long sides were milled parallel.

The milled piece was then repositioned in the vise, and a center finder was used to locate and drill the center of one of the two holes. I then used the DRO (digital read-out) on my mill to "dial in" the location of the second hole (rather than using the center on the template) for greatest accuracy. With both holes drilled, the workpiece was once again repositioned for milling the side. I used a parallel to line up the template, and then milled down to the line.

The second side was milled the same way, and the workpiece was once again repositioned to enable the top of the arm to be milled, then flipped and milled on the reverse side.

After removing any remaining bits of the template, I used my radiusing jig to round each end of the con-rod.

Bronze bushing were made by drilling and reaming a hole of the required size, and then turning the outer diameter to fit the con-rod hole; the bushings were turned 0.0005" oversize (a "half-thou") so they could be pressed into place.

Crankshaft

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[MODIFICATION] For the crankshaft, I modified the design in the original plans to a counterbalanced design (based on a design by Brian Rupnow - see links below). However, in a departure from Rupnow's design, I decided to shrink-fit the shaft and crankpin into the counterbalance, rather than silver soldering them in. I also modified the crankpin design slightly, and made also made it out of hardened O-1 tool steel.

To start I cut a blank from 1/4" cold rolled steel plate; this was then milled flat and parallel on two sides. The milled blank was measured to find the center, and then center-punched.

The milled blank was next mounted in the lathe's four jaw chuck, using the center punch as a guide to centering the workpiece in the chuck; I also used two brass shims behind the workpiece in the chuck to raise the face above the jaws for facing. I tried to center the piece as accurately as possible, although it is not necessary to be 100% accurate at this point, as the hole resulting from this operation will become the datum for all subsequent operations and so will be 100% correct by definition. The face with the raised boss was turned first, after which the center was drilled with a hole of the appropriate size but not reamed (this will be done later). The piece was then flipped over in the chuck jaws and the opposite face was turned flat, removing as little material as possible. I note that this results in the final piece being just under 0.250" in thickness, but the difference is not significant.

In the next step, the workpiece is placed in the mill vise, and centered on the hole drilled in the lathe. The hole for the crankpin is drilled next, positioned in relation to the hole for the shaft, and then both holes are reamed - this ensures that both holes are parallel to each other.

With both holes drilled and reamed (yes - those holes are the same size in my modification), I used layout die to mark out the final shape for the piece. One problem: How to use a divider to mark out a circle when there is a hole where the center should be? Solution: I made a small brass "button" with a small dimple in the center - this fits in the hole and provides a center for one leg of the divider. With the final shape marked out, I rough cut the shape with the bandsaw to speed up the next milling steps.

To mill the straight sides, the piece was set up in the vise using a parallel to line up the scribe line; because of the raised boss on one side, I used two brass shims to help clamp the piece in the vise (I used doublesided tape to hold the shims to the inside of the vise jaw, after carefully cleaning oil and cutting fluid off the jaw face with acetone). With the piece in place, I simply milled down to the scribe line; the other straight side was milled the same way.

I turned the radius using a jig I made some time ago just for this purpose: A block of aluminum with a V-groove milled in one side is used to hold a rod of appropriate diameter vertically in the mill vise (I have rods of various diameters for this purpose - if I don't have the size I need, I just make a new one and add it to the collection). The rod is centered in the mill, after which the appropriate radius can be turned by measuring with the mill DRO. I use a 1/4" mill for this purpose, and I always do conventional milling (NEVER do climb milling with this setup as the mill will grab the piece from your hand and spin it around faster than you can blink - if you are lucky only the piece will be ruined and you won't be injured. If you are not lucky . . . ). Further, I make light cuts when milling the radius - 10 thousands or less at a time.

The large radius is milled in much the same way, except that is there is not enough material to hold safely by hand, I used a small vice-grip plier to hold the piece loosely (NOT clamped in the vice-grip jaws). I can't really recommend this method, because even though I did not clamp the plier jaws, they left some marks on the piece (which I was able to buff out, fortunately). Looks like I need to make some kind of soft-jaw holder to go with the radius jig.

The crankpin was straight-forward turning job. First, some O-1 drill rod was drilled and tapped, and then turned to the required diameter(s). I made the diameters 0.002" oversize so they could be polished to size later.

Next I hardened and tempered the crankpin. WAIT! - Did you catch the mistake? I forgot to drill the side hole to allow the grease cup to lubricate the bearing. Just as an experiment, I tried drilling the hardened crankpin - it was definitely hard, the center drill would barely scratch it. I softened the crankpin by heating it up again and letting it cool down slowly, then drilled the side hole. Then I heated it again (in the picture below you can see an iron wire I used to hold the crankpin while heating; that's firebrick in the background). I quenched in oil, cleaned the crankpin, and then tempered it in a 450°F toaster oven for an hour.

I then chucked up the crankpin in the lathe and used 600 grit paper just enough to clean off the scale, followed by 1200 grit to get the required diameter for a shrink fit.

I had to do some trial and error to get the diameter right for the shrink fit; in the end it turned out that the pin diameter needed to be about two ten-thousands bigger than the hole. I also made a little tool for pressing in the crankpin - just a piece of steel rod with a hole drilled in one end just large enough in diameter for the small end of the pin to fit. I heated the counterbalance on a hot plate, and then pressed in the pin using the tool; the crankpin design is such that, using the tool, it automatically goes in to the correct depth. With the crankpin in place, I next needed to fit the crankshaft.

I made the crankshaft by turning down a piece of steel rod with one end held in the chuck, and the other end with a live center. I turned the shaft down to with 0.002" of finished diameter, and then finished up with first 400 grit paper, and then 600 and 1200 grit paper. I measured with a micrometer at several places along the length to make sure the diameter was as uniform as possible, and I tested the fit with the bearing in the side frame. With the main length of the shaft completed, I turned it around in the lathe chuck and turned down the previously chucked end to fit the counterbalance.

Again, I had to do some trial and error to get the shaft diameter correct to shrink fit in the counterbalance (and again it turned out to be around 1 - 3 ten-thousandths larger than the hole diameter).

I ended up heating the counterbalance with a MAPP torch to heat it for the shrink fit. This left a black oxide coating on the counterbalance; I could have polished this off, but I think it gives a nice contrast so I am leaving it on for now.

Another important note about pressing in the shaft for the shrink fit: In some of the early unsuccessful attempts to press the shaft into the counterbalance, I used the arbor press a bit too vigorously. As a result, when I tested the crankshaft in the bearings I found the shaft was bent; the bend was fairly minor - about 30 thousands - but it was enough to cause binding in the bearings. Fortunately I was able to straighten out the bend by holding the shaft in the soft jaws on my bench vise and hitting it with a soft hammer just enough to "un-bend" it by trial and error. When I got the diamter correct for the press fit, it went into the hole with mild pressure on the arbor press, so if you try this and find yourself leaning really hard on the press then STOP. Let things cool down, remove the shaft from the counterbalance (press it back out if you need to), take a bit more off the diameter, and try again. As I recall it took me four tries to get it to go in, because I started with much too large an oversize on the diameter.

Cylinder Head Frame

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After the basic block for the cylinder head is milled to size, it is drilled through for the spark plug hole. This is followed by plunge milling to rough out the bore, followed by milling with a boring head to finished size. After that, the four holes are drilled for the cylinder mounting screws.

In the next step the workpiece is flipped over in the vise and the center of the hole is located, followed by tapping for the spark plug. The four screw holes are countersunk, and a boring head is used to mill a counterbore for the spark plug.

In the next step the final shape of the cylinder head frame is milled, and all remaining holes are drilled and tapped. At this point I just had to do a test fit of the frame pieces on the baseplate.

Not finished yet! I still need to drill the holes for the intake/exhaust port and for mounting the valves. That will come after the cylinder is completed (see below).

Cylinder and Gasket

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The cylinder was made from a bar of steel given to me by a local machine shop - no idea what alloy it is, but it cuts much like cold rolled steel but seems to leave a better finish.

The workpiece was set up in the four jaw chuck for better holding and centering. After facing the part and center drilling a live center was added, and the basic shape was turned. I used the cylinder head frame to test fit the part of the cylinder that fits in the in the frame. This was followed by cutting the grooves for the cooling fins (I used a cut-off tool as a grooving tool). Unfortunately I didn't notice that my indicator had slipped while cutting the grooves, so two of the "fins" are not of even width - however, this is only cosmetic and I do not think it will affect function much. Next, the part was reversed in the lathe to complete the basic shape; I used an aluminum shim (cut from a cola can) to keep the lathe jaws from marring the part.

The workpiece was again reversed in the chuck (again with an aluminum shim to prevent marring), and drilled completely through in stages up to a 1/2" drill. This was followed with a carbide boring bar.

The boring bar was part of a set I purchased, which I initially did not find to be much good. I re-ground the carbide cutting part with a "green wheel" and finished by touching up the cutting edge with diamond files, after which it cut very well.

In cutting the bore this way, there is a risk of ending up with a tapered bore due to the tool flexing during cutting. To avoid this I made many spring cuts as I approached the finish bore size, and I also measured the bore size at the both ends and the middle (at least as far as my telescoping gage would reach).

The cylinder head frame can now be drilled for the cylinder mounting holes. To ensure alignment, I drilled and tapped for one screw first, and then inserted that screw to hold the cylinder in place for the remaining screw holes, which were then drilled and tapped. With the cylinder screwed to the cylinder head frame, I drilled and tapped the hole for the cylinder oiler, and then counterbored the hole with an end mill.

With the cylinder almost complete, I proceeded to hone the interior. I used a small honing tool purchased at a local auto parts store, along with a cordless drill. I honed for 30 - 45 second intervals, spraying occasionally with WD-40. Between intervals I measured with a telescoping gage. Note that I used wood "soft jaws" to hold the cylinder in my bench vise for honing, so as not to mar the finish. I was careful not to clamp the cylinder too tightly as this might "squash" it - leaving it out of round after the pressure is removed.

Note: At this point I began work on the piston, and as a result found I had to do some additional honing - as I found out after test fitting the piston (see the Piston section below).

The final step (almost) for both the cylinder and the cylinder head frame is to drill the hole for the intake/exhaust port which goes through both the cylinder head frame and the cylinder. This is also a good time to drill and tap the holes for mounting the valves. [MODIFICATION] By the way, I saw no need to enlarge the port hole in the cylinder into a slot, as called for in the original plans.

Copper gasket : To make the coper gasket for the cylinder, I chucked up a piece of aluminum from my scrap bin and faced it to get a nice flat surface. I then put doublesided tape on it, and put a piece of copper sheet on top of that. Unfortunately the tape did not hold the sheet firmly enough, so I ended up drilling and tapping the aluminum and holding down the copper sheet with a screw and washer. With this setup I was able to cut a circle out of the copper sheet, and then a ring from the circle. I used a carbide thread cutting bit as a "gasket cutter" for this operation, but in retrospect it would have been better if I had taken the time to grind a tool bit for this instead.

Drip Oiler

[Dec. 13, 2022]

After a long absences from this project, I decided to pick it up agin, starting with the drip oiler. I modified the original design to make a glass cylinder version.

First step is to cut a section of glass tube.

Side Frame and Crankshaft Support

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The side holes for the side frame and crankshaft support are drilled while the rough pieces are still rectangular, to facilitate holding in the vise.

Making the bronze bushing for the two plates is a straight forward turning job. The bushings were machined .001" oversize and then shrunk fit into the holes bu heating the plates on a hot plate and then pressing the bushing into the heated plate. Once the bushings were in place, the plates were mounted on the the baseplate and the two bushings were reamed simultaneously to ensure that the bores would be in line.

[March 28, 2015] I actually did a good bit of this work some time ago, but I am playing catch up on posting. I'll be filling in the blanks in the next few days.

Piston

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The piston was made from a section of aluminum rod, which was first faced, and then turned to the correct diameter (which I checked by test-fitting in the cylinder). I turned the cylinder using a digital caliper to check the diameter, until I got to within about .005" of the required size (determined by measuring the cylinder with a telescoping gage). I then "snuck up" on the final size by taking very light cuts, measuring with a micrometer, and test fitting with the cylinder until I got a good fit.

Next the center was drilled out to 1/2" diameter to near the finish depth for the blind hole in the middle of the cylinder. This was finished up with a boring bar to the required diameter and depth. Once the center hole was bored, I machined the two grooves for the piston rings using a grooving tool I made for this purpose ( a simple job with a HHS tool bit and a grinder, followed by "honing" with diamond files).

Now the piston can be parted off. This left a nib on the end of the piston, so I chucked it up (with some aluminum shims to prevent marring) and faced off the nib.

Note - Additional honing of the cylinder: With the piston "free" I was now able to test fit it fully in the cylinder. I found that despite my best efforts in boring the cylinder, it had some taper near the top that was causing the piston to bind in the cylinder. I used the hone to selectively hone the top part of the cylinder until the piston fit nicely along the entire length. I estimate this took somewher around 30-45 minutes, including numerous stops for cleaning and test fitting.

Now the internal bore needs to be enlarged to an "oval." I clamped the piston in the mill vise using a small V-block, and milled out both side of the bore. I also took the opportunity to drill and tap the holes for the setscrews for the wristpin (just drilling and tapping them as blind holes for now).

In the next step I repositioned the piston in the vise, again using the small V-block. Using an indicator I carefully rotated the piston until the internal flat was indicating level, so that the holes for the wrist pin would be at an exact 90° angle; I then drilled and reamed the holes for the wrist pin. Using the indicator again, I again rotated the piston in the V-block - this time making sure the internal flat was vertical; it was then a simple matter to drill the hole for the oil tube at a 90° angle to the wrist pin.

The oil tube for the piston is a simple turning job - drill the internal hole, turn the outside (just big enough for a press fit), and cut off to length. While I was at it, I also made a simple tool to help press fit the tube into the piston - you can;t see it very well in the picture, but there is a small raised shoulder on the small rod end to ensure that when the tube is pressed into the piston the end goes just below the side of the piston.

Piston Rings

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Rocker Arm

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[MODIFICATION] With the rocker arm, I decided to depart from the original Webster plans significantly. Instead of milling the rocker arm from a single piece of steel, I decided to use 1/8" thick brass plates silver soldered together, and then further milled to shape. I started with two slightly oversize brass plates, and overlapped then with silver solder paste in between (note the small "extra" piece to be used as a shim). Using a hold-down device on fire-brick, I heated the overlapping section with a MAPP torch and got what appeared to be a good bond; in fact it was good enough to hold together through several subsequent milling steps, but when I attempted to drill the pivot hole the join failed. In retrospect, I realized that when I had heated the join originally I did not get it hot enough as evidenced by the silver solder not fully melting.

Once again I prepared two brass plates, overlapped them with silver solder paste in between, and heated them with a MAPP torch. This time I was careful to get the join red hot (this is difficult to see with brass, but with care a dull red color can be obtained); I also noted that the silver solder took on a silvery "wet" appearance. Later milling steps showed this to be a very strong, almost invisible join.

Next, the joined pieces were milled on both long sides to establish parallel "flats" on the top and bottom. In the picture below, note that I used two small pieces of brass plate as shims to enable the offset pieces to be clamped firmly in the mill vise.

Next, I side-milled the join to create a smooth curved joint along the solder line. This was repeated for the other side.

As the original brass pieces were intentionally cut oversize, the valve end of the rocker arm was now milled to length for the next step. This required a piece of 1/4" diameter brass rod to be milled with a groove 1/8" in width; the rod piece is cut long and will be milled to proper length later.

The grooved rod piece in now silver soldered onto the end of the rocker arm, then milled level with the top of the arm. Note that this end of the rocker arm now becomes the datum for subsequent operations. A hole is drilled and tapped in the center of the circular end; while the piece is positioned in the vise, the oil hole for the pivot pin is also drilled. In addition, the cam end of the rocker arm can now be milled to the correct length.

In the final step, the angles or taper on both arms of the rocker arm can be milled. This is done by laying out scribe lines - each arm in turn is set up parallel to the vise and milled down to the scribe line.

Wrist Pin

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The wrist pin workpiece was cut from 0.188" diameter drill rod (O-1 oil hardening), faced to length and chamfered on each end, and then drilled. For drilling, the piece was drilled halfway thru from either end to ensure a well centered hole all the way through. After drilling, flats were milled on both ends and the piece was ready for hardening.

I used a length of iron wore to hold the wrist pin while I heated it to red heat with a MAPP torch, and then quenched it in oil. I cleaned off the oil with degreaser, and then tempered the hardened piece by wrapping it in steel wool and aluminum foil and heating it in a toaster oven at 450° F for an hour (450° F is the oven setting - I measured with an electronic thermometer and it's actually 477° F).

The bronze bushing for the wrist pin was polished (or lapped, if you will), by chucking up a small pin with 1200 grit paper wrapped around it so it could "flap" while it was inserted in the bushing. This polishing only took between one and two minutes. The hardened and tempered wrist pin was then chucked in the lathe (not shown) and spun while I used 600 grit paper to remove the scale. This was then followed by polishing with 1200 grit paper; I found that about 30 seconds of polishing with 1200 grit paper would remove about 0.0001 (one ten thousandth) from the diameter. I continued polishing in about 30 second increments until I got a smooth fit of the pin into the bushing (somewhere between 5 and 7 minutes of polishing).

Valve Block

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The valve block began as a piece of brass 1" wide x 1/4" thick . I first milled the two edges parallel, but did not yet mill to final width. The two faces were milled with a fly cutter, removing the absolute minimum required to clean up the faces; this reduced the thickness to a few thousands less than the 0.250" thickness called for in the plans, but this is not significant (it would have been better to start with a piece 5/16" thick, but it still worked out). The milled piece was then cut into three pieces.

With the rough sizes completed, the three pieces were then "batch milled" to final size. This was done first using and end mill to get close (within a few thousandths) to the final required size, and then finishing up with a fly cutter to the required size with a nice finish.

At this point I also took the time to mark the three blocks with a felt-tip marker so that I could keep them in the same relative position and orientation until completed. This may not have been necessary, but I thought it would help to improve the fit if there were any minor inaccuracies in the work holding set-up.

Since my mill has DROs, I drilled all of the holes using X,Y coordinate positions. To make the counterbores in the top and bottom pieces I used a boring head. Because the counterbores are so shallow, and because I don't own a set of gage pins, I turned a small gage pin to the size required for the bore (of course this is not as accurate as a ground and hardened gage pin, but it is accurate enough for this job).

Springs for Valve Block

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CAUTION! This section is a work in progress and the information in it has not yet been verified in a working engine.

Two springs (intake and exhaust) are needed for the valve block. Since I did not have the wire sizes called for in the plans, I made equivalent springs using the sire I had on hand. The equivalents were calculated using a spreadsheet I created for this purpose (as well as for calculated required mandrel sizes); the spreadsheet can be downloaded from this link. The original spring sizes and my equivalents are listed in the table below.

Flywheel

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[July 15, 2016]

Making some progress on the flywheel this week. I'm making the flywheel from some thick wall bronze tube I picked up as a cheap drop. The hub of the flywheel is made from aluminum. I cut off a piece of the bronze tube and faced both ends, and then turned the internal diameter smooth.

I cut off a piece of an aluminum cylinder about the same thickness, drilled and reamed a center hole and faced both sides. I mounted the hub on a mandrel and turned he outer diameter just slightly larger than the internal diameter of the bronze "wheel." I made the aluminum piece .00015" per inch of diameter oversize (in this case, about 4.5 thou oversize) to allow for a shrink fit of the wheel onto the hub.

For the shrink fit, I initially tried just putting the aluminum piece in the freezer; this resulted in about 2.5 thou of shrink - not enough. So I put the bronze wheel in a toaster oven at 450 deg. F for 45 minutes; this expnaded the wheel by about 7 thou, and the aluminum hub dropped into the wheel easily. After cooling for a bout an hour, the hub was held firmly in the wheel. Next step is to turn the combined hub/wheel in the lathe to clean up the outer diameter, and to profile the sides.

Gas Tank

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Carburetor

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Ignition System

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The original plans list the required parts in the notes at the end; here are the parts I have acquired so far:

Links Related to the Webster Build

Below is a collection of links to the original plans, as well as to articles and other information I found online while researching in preparation for the build. Where builders have made interesting or useful modifications to the original plans, I have flagged this with a build modification tag.

• Webster Engine Works Single Cylinder 4 Stroke Gas Engine : This is where it all began - the original build site with background and plans.

  • Download a PDF of the plans here: http://home.comcast.net/~webster_engines/Plans.zip

    • Note: The above link was updated to include gas tank plans as well.

• Bill of materials : A spreadsheet listing required materials (and some of the required tooling) for the Webster build.

• Home Model Engine Machinist - Webster build log : A nice build log with lots of pictures and comment. Includes discussion of gear cutting, brass rocker arm (build modification), brass fuel tank with one-way ball valve (build modification), ignition kit, etc. See also the related "Webster engine detailed posts" below.

• Home Model Engine Machinist - Webster build log : Another build log with pictures and comment.

• Home Model Engine Machinist - Webster build log : Water Cooled Webster - A build log with pictures and comment.

  • piston rings

  • rocker arm spring alternative - build modification

  • fuel tank

• Home Shop Machinist - Webster build log : Very good pictures in this build log.

  • modified crankshaft with counter-balance - build modification by Brian Rupnow

  • aluminum flywheel with brass inserts - build modification

  • brass rocker arm - build modification

  • o-ring instead of piston rings - build modification

  • jig for positioning components for valve timing - build modification

  • cylinder oiler modification - build modification

  • build cost estimate

• Piston rings online resources : Collection of links on making piston rings (click on the link and scroll down to "Piston rings").

• Webster engine detailed posts : 21 detailed posts on various aspects of building the Webster

  • Webster Engine – Complete

  • Webster – Up and Running

  • Webster – First Run (Troubleshooting!)

  • Webster Engine – One Way Ball Valve (Jan Ridders)

  • Webster – Jan Ridders Universal Vapour Carb (carburetor)

  • Webster – Ignition System

  • Webster – Valve part 2 and current assembly

  • Webster – Valves

  • Webster – Valve Block part 1

  • Webster – Valve Guides

  • Webster – Exhaust CAM

  • Webster -flywheel made with 24 tooth gear adapter

  • Webster Flywheel – part 1

  • Webster -Piston Compression

  • Webster Crank, Con-rod and Base

  • Cutting the Webster Gear – 48 tooth 32DP

  • Cutting the Gear Cutter!

  • Webster IC Engine – Frame Supports

  • Webster IC Engine Part 2 – Boring Cylinder

  • Webster IC Engine – Part 1

  • Webster Engine – Gear Cutting

• Carburetor

  • Home Model Engine Machinist - carburetor - Discussion of carburetor options for the Webster.

  • Home Model Engine Machinist - carburetor - Chuck Fellows simple carburetor build. - build modification

  • Jan Ridders : A simple vapor carburetor. - build modification

• Ignition Circuit and Components

  • How To Wire Up A Sparkie : General discussion on model engine ignition circuits and components.

  • Ignition Circuit : Discussion forum which includes a good diagram of an ignition circuit.

  • Ignition Coil Polarity : "This article is a discussion about electrical polarity of the coil and spark plugs."

  • Coils

    • Home Shop machinist - coil winder : Coil winder for making ignition coils.

    • Bob Shores Small Gas Engines : Source for book Engine Coils and Magnetos

  • Spark plugs

    • Home Model Engine Machinist - spark plugs : Making mini sparkplugs.