Embedded Files
1999 Regal Commodore 402, purchased late July 2017
Pictures
Projects:
Install gas flow meters or get fuel flow information from diagnostic computer interface
Add 12V / USB outlets in cockpit.
Install stereo in cockpit
Figure out precisely (test by disconnecting) which battery goes where.
Pull cockpit ice maker and install cabinet (?)
Flush and replace generator coolant.
Figure out what is going on with Inverter - possibly replace.
Tune up for main engines.
Replace main stateroom mattress (done)
Build new bumper baskets (done)
Finish covers for all bumpers. (done)
Generator oil change (done)
Fix or replace light in utility locker in stern (done)
Rework AC filter. (done)
Generator carb rebuilt (done)
Generator impeller replaced (done) - also replaced water temp sensor - now Generator WORKS!
Bottom Job 12/11/18 (done)
Replaced bilge blower and panel lamp switches on dash. Purchased switches to replace all, but will take time to do so.
Replace impellers (done)
Oil change for main engines (done)
Fix or replace water and waste tank monitors (done)
Replace bow spot light. (done)
Make cover for Dash (done)
Get name vinyl on the stern (done)
Replace anchor light with LED bulb. (done)
Mount bell. (done)
Add tabletop ice maker. (done)
Relocate dock box (done)
Add 12V stereo system (done)
Add bumpers (done)
Secure safe in master stateroom. (done)
Rig flags (done)
Re-mount bumper baskets and adjust. (done)
Reroute shore power cable under dock to starboard side of boat (done)
Set up "filler tube" (done)
Add rope hanger inside cockpit locker (done) Also added hat hanger in aft cabin.
Fix or replace aft cabin light (done)
Update cabin lights with LED bulbs (done)
Update running lights with LED bulbs (bow lights done, transom light done)
Replace anchor with plow type. Also replace bow roller, and anchor rode with at least 150'. Will switch to rope/chain. (done)
Install quick disconnects on city water connection (done).
Replaced swim ladder. (done)
Repair or replace AC unit. (done)
Add Garmin GPS / depth finder (done)
3/7/20 - Mike from Diving Duck inspected and scrubbed bottom of boat, including video.
4/11/20 - Changed oil in main engines. Sierra International 18-7824-2 Oil Filter from Amazon, Rotella 15W40 conventional oil (Walmart) - took 8 quarts per engine.
Misc. Comments:
Separate, fully enclosed shower: LOVE IT!!!
TWIN INBOARDS: Surprisingly, this really made a HUGE difference!! The previous experience I had with a twin engine boat was the Sea Ray 270, that had twin I/O's with integrated shift/throttle levers for each engine. The Regal with true inboards (v-drives) is SO MUCH easier to handle than I remember the Sea Ray being. Not sure how much of that is the form factor of the boat, size of the engines, or just that I started off with a better idea of what I was doing - but this boat is a LOT easier to dock than the Sea Ray was, or even possibly the Regal 28 Express with the bow thruster. Now, a bow thruster is nice to have. But it's a whole different feeling to "drive the boat" with just the shifters.
Anchor: The existing anchor was a 16 pound Danforth, on 50' (ONLY!) of solid 5/16" chain. Combined with a depth finder that has been acting flaky, the first attempt at anchoring just didn't work at all. This seems to confirm the experience on the Regal 28 Express that a Plow type anchor is a MUCH better solution for Lake Travis. Also, with an all chain rode (and no chain counter), it's impossible to tell how much chain is out - and for that matter, when the anchor has hit the bottom. The rope rode will tend to bunch up once the anchor is on the bottom, and then you can back off. The all chain rode just hangs down, and you can't tell anything at all. A plow anchor was ordered - which showed up with about a 30 degree bend in the last 4-6" of the shank - and this was in 3/8 to 1/2" thick steel! If that can be straightened, it will be interesting to see how well the new plow holds. Anchor roller - was split when the boat was bought. Replaced with rubber/plastic bow roller - that only lasted a month or two. Clearly the wrong material. Replaced again with a proper bow roller. However, noticed on 7/10/12 that the roller had already split again (lasted maybe a year?). This is probably a function of pulling the anchor up to roughly with the windlass - but not sure how else to do that. I do slow down the windlass and take short bursts with it when the chain comes up.
Added Garmin echoMap CHIRP 53cv GPS/depth finder. Note - had to purchase "puck" receiver to mount internally below stairs in cabin, behind water tank. Also had to buy adapter cable to go from puck wire to connection on the Garmin. Puck: Garmin 010-12401-10 GT8HW-Ih Plastic in-Hull Mount Transducer with 12 Degree Tilt. Adapter cable: Garmin 8-Pin Transducer to 4-Pin Sounder Adapter Cable. Both ordered on Amazon.
Replaced AC (10/30/17) with Dometic CruiseAirrrr DTU "Turbo" 16K BTU unit and new control keypad. The marketing pitch was that the new unit is MUCH better than the old technology. Upgraded type of Freon. "Turbo" fan. MUCH more energy efficient. The reality so far is that I can't tell any difference in air flow output, and am not yet feeling any improvement in heating or cooling - other than the fact that the new unit does actually work (the old unit had failed completely, not turning on circulation pump or compressor). Update 3/31/18 - Through the previous winter, the Heater function of the system worked very well. However, I noticed that the thermostat calibration is rather wanting... Will be interesting to see how well this system does this winter. Update 8/27/18 - Heater did very well in the winter, and AC is doing well this summer. Eventually figured out how to set "calibration offset" for the thermostat. Then discovered that the therm. sensor is on a cable just setting inside the after machinery space near the air return. One of the next projects is to make a new door for that space that incorporates a traditional house AC filter. This door will have a clip on it to hold the temp sensor in the main return air flow.
Replaced boarding ladder with style typically sold for pontoon boats. The new ladder goes significantly deeper into the water, and has upper hand rails for climbing back in. Should be a HUGE improvement over the previous ladder (which worked, but wasn't the best for mature adults...). Unfortunately, I didn't get this installed until JUST BEFORE the water temp dropped below what I would consider to be warm enough for swimming... But should be GREAT for swimming / floating / rafting up next summer!
Replaced tank monitor system!!! (Aug. 2018) It's VERY exciting to know be able to tell how full the black tank is!!! Existing Xintex system was replaced with the See Level II system from Garnet. Designed for RV's (it includes battery, LP, fresh, grey, and black tank monitors) - it works fine for a boat. I was able to use the existing wiring and place the monitor in the head where it had been originally installed. Black tank monitor sensor was installed a bit low (?) - it reads 16% full just after pump out. The sensor also was not tall enough to cover the full tank. So I have a built in 25% buffer when the monitor reads full. :) Since I don't need the "grey" water monitor, I may install that on the upper portion of the tank to act as a backup for the primary sensor. The See Level II system uses an electronic probe (ultrasonic, capacitive??) that is mounted on the OUTSIDE of the tank. MUCH nicer to install, and free from being clogged or affected by slime accumulating on the inside of the tanks. So far, very happy with this system!!
Replaced both main engine impellers (with housing) - 3/30/18. Starboard engine cooling water thru-hull extremely difficult to access and operate. Hose clamps on hoses going to the water pump (impeller housing) were positioned such that they were extremely difficult to get a tool on. Discovered process for replacement:
Close thru-hull
Loosen tension pulley on serpentine belt by cranking adjustment screw. Remove serpentine belt.
Remove hose clamps on water pump assembly.
Remove nuts attaching water pump assembly to engine frame bracket.
With pump assembly removed, disassemble impeller housing. Replace housing, impeller, and plate. Vaseline used to lubricate gasket. One pump had the smaller gasket, the other did not... Softsoap used to lubricate impeller to assist installation and lubricate until water was flowing.
Re-assemble pump, fit to engine bracket, re-attach hoses, replace serpentine belt - tighten as tight as possible.
OPEN thru-hull
NOTE: Removing exhaust hose section was not required (Ed was able to get into the engine space) - but might give considerably easier access to the engine.
Engines started and boat taken out for short run. Both engines returned to about 175F stable temperature, as per dash gauges.
Previous impellers showed signs of wear. Stbd impeller showed significant wear. However, there were no broken vanes, no missing pieces. This set of impellers is expected to be at least 3 years old.
Impeller Kit Part number: Mercruiser 46-807151A14
The reference for the above came from here: https://www.perfprotech.com/mercury-marine-parts-catalog/sea-water-pump/assembly/2713/170?model=404
Made new access hatch for AC / machinery space. This hatch accommodates a 10x20x1" standard AC filter, and is attached with rare earth magnets.
Generator:
Since purchase, the generator was difficult to start, and didn't want to keep running. To start, you had to hold the "start" switch (which bypasses the safety sensors for speed, water temp, and oil pressure) for several minutes. Eventually, the generator would start and run - but then would die after 15-30 min.
Ed Flynn rebuilt the carburetor. This was probably overdue, and needed - but did not significantly help with the existing problem.
Tried bypassing the oil pressure switch - this also did not help.
Bypassed the water temp switch - SUCCESS!!! Ordered new switch - waiting for chance to install.
Impeller replaced 12/11/18. Old impeller was extremely worn, but completely intact.
Bottom Job - 12/11/18 - Boat hauled, sanded, repainted with Pettit Neptune 5 black bottom paint. Zebra muscles found on trim tabs and other locations - bottom paint was past needing to be replaced. A few smaller blisters, some between barrier coat and gel coat, but not a major issue.
2018 Biblical event: Rain started about Oct. 15/16, 2018. Lake rose to 704'. Finally able to access boats again (682') on 11/7/18.
Starting Batteries / Starter (starboard motor) - 7/4/20. Starboard engine failed to start just before going out on July 4th, though it had been started, warmed up, and oil checked prior in the day. Sounded like the starter. Ordered new starter on Amazon (part number 50-808011A05, $62). Ed replaced the starter on 7/10/20, but that didn't solve the problem. Both starting batteries replaced (forward battery is the port engine, aft battery is the stbd engine) - that fixed it. I knew the batteries were old and needed to be replaced. I didn't know if the starter or starter solenoid was contributing to the problem. Turns out the starter didn't need to be replaced - but at least now I have the peace of mind knowing that I do NOT possibly have a flaky / intermittent starter! NOTE: The starting batteries are in the forward compartment in the raised mid section of the engine compartment. The starting batteries are Group 24 - and that is the ONLY size that will fit in the designated area. House batteries should also be replaced - two tied in parallel.
Oil:
Oil was replaced with Rotella 15W40. This was used in the main engines, and will also be used in the generator on the next oil change.
Conventional - sounds like straight 40W (hot climates) or 50W (very hot climates) would be good.
Synthetic - 10W40 or 15W50 Mobil 1 should be good.
Oil Filters that might fit:
I ordered this oil filter:
Sierra International 18-7824-2 Oil Filter from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0764JRK61/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Replaces Mercury part numbers 54111, 14957, 32716, 35-802885qt, 35-866340k01 and 35-866340q03
From this web page reference: https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-q/103223-what-oil-should-i-use-my-454-a.html
Here is a list of filters that should fit your application:
Oil Filter f/ most Mercruisers
FYI:The thread type on the filter is 13/16-16.
Fram: PH5, HP4, DG5, PH13 (no anti drainback) Pureolator: L34631
Purolator Pure One: PL34631
AC: PF1218, PF932
Motorcraft: FL-12A
NAPA: 1060, 1060gold
Wix: 51060
Wix Racing: 51060R, 51061R R= Racing
K&N: HP3002
Baldwin: B1428 (Top Rated)
Amsoil: SDF-24
Hastings: LF279
Fleetguard: LF3679
Mercruiser: 35-802885Q
Mobil 1: M1-302 or M1-111
Kendall: K31
Penzoil: PZ45
Quaker State: QS5
Shell: S63, SH38
Texaco: T38, T38B
Warner: PH1218
STP: S01218
The Uline Ice Maker in the cockpit was replaced with a new model. Details on the replacement are here:
On Aug. 29, I was able to go out with someone from Bee's Marine. The technician connected his laptop to each of the engines, and data was collected for fuel flow vs. RPM, MPH (GPS), etc... This data is summarized in the table below:
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