I recently (9/28/23) purchased the Ender 3 Max Neo printer to replace the Robo 3D 1R printer.
Video on Unboxing and Setup of Creality Ender 3D Neo Max printer:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p82TT4tNsb4
Current Printer: Creality K1 Max
Donna's Printer: Flashforge
Began experimenting with 3-D Printing...
Machine: Bokabot by Deezmaker
Materials: Experimenting with both PLA and ABS
Software:
Design Software: Tinkercad
Slicing Software: Slic3r
Printer Driver: Repetier-Host V1.0.6
Fusion 360
I used Fusion 360 for a couple of years. I really liked the capability and the enormous support community. You can google anything you need to do in Fusion 360 and be very likely to find a YouTube video clip of how to do it. Fusion 360 does have a pretty steep learning curve!
Downsides
Fusion 360 is brought to us by the lovely people at Autodesk. Again, see "steep learning curve".
There IS at least a "free version". Individuals that are not selling their products can use the software with a free license. However, it got to the point that I had to install Fusion 360 on my next laptop, and after hunting around for too long (especially given that I had already done this on at least 2 other laptops over the past couple of years) - I never was able to figure out how to get to the "free download" option.
Another problem with Fusion 360 is that it can ONLY be installed on the root hard drive of the laptop (typically the "C:" drive).
Fusion 360 takes a fairly large amount of disk space (on your root hard drive).
Fusion 360 is NOT available on Linux.
Onshape
I finally got to the point that I had to give up on Fusion 360. Onshape was the tool I picked next.
After Fusion 360, it turned out to not be difficult to pick up. There are good tutorials for Onshape, and lots of help videos.
Onshape has a "free web based" version. It is entirely in the cloud. Generally, I'm NOT a fan of cloud based anything. However, when moving between multiple laptops in multiple locations - this makes it really easy to manage things. All your designs are in the cloud, so everything is always in sync.
The DOWNSIDE of this is that a requirement of the "free" version is that ALL of your designs are public. ANYONE can look at or steal your designs. Again, I'm usually NOT a fan of cloud anything because of the potential loss of privacy. In this case, you're informed up front that there is ZERO privacy. Anything you do can be seen by anybody. However, for the projects I'm currently working on - that's not a problem. No one would be likely to have any interest at all in the brackets, boxes, and widgets I'm working on.
Orca Slicer
I'm currently using Orca Slicer to slice my Onshape designs for printing on my Creality K1 Max 3D printer. It works pretty well, and is very similar to the prior Creality slicers that I had used.
Note: Orca Slicer states on the bringup page that it is derived from the PrusaSlicer and BambuStudio.
ASA:
Successful printing ASA, following recommended print settings for filament.
Successful printing with 2+ year old filament - even after it being stored on the boat in only a zip-lock bag (does not appear to require drying).
TPU:
Initial test was not successful.
30 mm/s for walls, 40mm/s for infill
Bed plate set to 60C
Nozzle set to 210C
Default retraction (Click printer [Creality K1 Max / Edit button => Extruder 1 => Retraction])
Length 0.6mm, retraction speed 40mm/s, detraction speed 40mm/s
Geeetech TPU - Try:
20-30mm/s speed (try 20mm/s)
Temp 200-230 (try 230C)
Bed temp 40-60 (default of 60 probably ok)
Set retraction to 0.0mm ([Creality K1 Max] (edit button) => Extruder 1 => Retraction)
Try to set a flow rate of 5mm^3/sec(?)
Try Temp of 240.
Try retraction of up to 1mm (set to zero currently)
Turn off Z-hop.
OPEN DOOR. REMOVE TOP.
The above settings seemed to work reasonably well. Still had unexplained dots on one of the inner walls of the shape.
TRY using blue painter's tape on the plate. The object stuck REALLY well to the plate, and was hard to remove without possibly damaging the plate. Using tape will allow the tape (with attached print) to be removed from the plate, then remove the tape from the print.
In Orca Slicer, I saved this under "SainSmart TPU" as the filament, with profile "SainSmartTPU15_20mm"
Next experiment - try printing at a faster speed...
Look to see if there is a setting for "combing" or "avoid crossing perimeters". See also "avoid crossing walls"
On the OrcaSlicer this is the "avoid crossing walls" setting. Click the box. Go to Quality -> Walls and surfaces -> "Avoid crossing walls" (check box)
I tried 0.5mm retraction. Late video indicates minimizing retraction may no longer be necessary. 0.5mm should be fine. Don't need to make it zero.
See this video for settings hints: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iWZw7RO2Sks
PLA:
Seems to be more brittle than ABS.
RECOMMENDED TEMPS:
Bed: 60-80C
Extruder: 215-235C
RECOMMENDATIONS from Protytype Supply (Toybuilderlabs.com) for 3.00mm PLA
50-60C
190-220C
Latest Blue PLA -
Bed: 65
Extruder: 225C
Z-axis offset: 0.5mm
Needs some heating on the table.
Printing "wall" block - 6" x .5" x 2" tall with two .156 dia holes one inch from end
Printed on Blue Tape
Temps:
Bed: 63C
Extruder: 220C
Overall, block printed "fairly" well - went to completion, most of it is good. There was some slight lifting on the ends of the block.
Block height dimension is 2.0". On ends, measured 1.950"
Attempted to print 6" x 6" base plate with 2 risers. Plate is 1/8" thick, risers are total of .5" tall.
Attempted 1: Blue tape
Bed: 90C (?) It was at least over 80C
Extruder: 235-240C
Bed started lifting. Killed run before it had completed the flat surface.
Attempt 2: Blue Tape, Bed 52C, Extruder 210C
Base completed without lifting (so far...)
SOOOO close!! Base printed ok. Got the mounting blocks printed to a height of .47 out of .5", and the PLA spool fell, causing the head to crash into the workpiece and make huge blob...
Attempt 3: Wall4
Blue Tape, Bed 50C, Extruder 210C
Had to kill at a height of .77" out of 2" (ran out of time) - but was looking great at that point - no warping.
Attempt 4: Intel Keys (2)
Blue Tape, Bed 50C, Extruder 210C
Printed without any problems.
ABS:
RECOMMENDED TEMPS:
Bed: 80-100C
Extruder: 230-240C
Attempt ABS01:
Design: wall4
Bed: 80
Extruder: 235
Surface (used) Blue tape
RESULT: Started lifting on end within first few passes.
Attempt ABS02
Design: wall4
Bed: 100C
Extruder 235C
Surface: Blue Tape
Killed after about 30 min., and height of about 1/2". Significant lifting had already started.
Attempt ABS03
Design: wall4
Bed: 90C
Extruder: 235C
Surface: Blue tape with Elmer's Purple Disappearing Glue Stick applied.
Killed. Glue stuck the work to the tape, but the work lifted the tape.
Attempt ABS04
Design: wall4
Bed 90C
Extruder: 235C
Surface: Kapton tape with Elmer's Purple Disappearing Glue Stick applied.
Killed. Kapton tape stayed down, but the work broke the glue bond and started lifting significantly on the ends.
Attempt ABS05
Design: wall4
Bed 70C
Extruder 230C
Surface: Kapton tape (old!) with Elmer's Purple Disappearing Glue Stick applied
Added 5mm brim - in "Sli3r", went to configuration, clicked tab for Brim
Failed miserably. Warped worse than above attempt.
Attempt ABS06
Design: wall3_25
Bed: 100C
Extruder 250C
Surface: Kapton tape (old) with old Elmer's
Still has 5mm brim
Slowed print speed to 50% for both perimeter and fill
Small part - 3" x .5" by .25" with 2 holes
SUCCESS!!!! (FINALLY!!!)
Tinkercad:
See tinkercad.com
Relatively easy to get started with.
Very limited documentation.
Entirely web based - Designs are saved on the cloud.
Great for being able to easily design on one laptop, then download to a laptop used for the printer.
ISSUES:
No "ruler" tool that can be used generically.
Impossible to backwards annotate after design is grouped and saved.
Doesn't provide any way to document or print dimensioned design.
SketchUp:
Much better design interface than tinkercad.
Issues:
Have to download and install extension package to get *.stl files out.
First attempt to download a simple design failed (.stl file was bad).
Notes:
Using Blue Painter's tape on glass base.
Adding small square .1 x .1 x .05" in corner to control offset of print on bed so that project is centered better.
?? Kapton tape??
Notes from NathanP:
Printer:
Media: (size, abs,pla?)
Plate coating: (hair spray, blue tape?)
Temp Settings:
bed
extruder
Software used for design: (tinkercad, sketchup?, repetier?)
"Vase Mode"
9/8/24 - In attempting to print a vase from the internet.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2421704 Simple spiral vase
https://images.app.goo.gl/QLMpSndqJWNmwvPv9 Dragon Vase
https://cults3d.com/:1427144 Shell vase set (zip file with 5 different options)
I was able to download the stl files, slice, and print them - but they all came out SOLID (well, filled, with a solid cap on the top). The comments said to use "vase mode" for printing. Googled that:
Attempting print with "Spiralize outer contour" option set in Creality slicer. Will see if that allows me to print a vase that is not filled in...
My need to find, and unset that option for future, "normal" prints.
I've printed a LOT of stuff with the Ender Neo Max printer, and been VERY happy with it for PLA work. However, it's an open printer, and it just can't seem to do ASA or other UV resistant / higher temp filaments without adding an enclosure, and upgrading the hot end and filament tube. It might be time to upgrade.
If I upgrade - I *really* would like to keep the LARGE PRINT SIZE. Being able to print up to 11.8 x 11.8 x 12" (tall) has been WONDERFUL - and allowed me to print several things that I wouldn't have been able to print on a standard 256 x 256 x 256mm (10x10x10") bed. It's just an inch, but...
The Bambu P1S combo with 4 colors gets great reviews. $600 base model, $850 combo (AWS 4 color box).
The Creality K1 Max looks like it also prints ASA, and has a 300x300x300 (11.8x11.8x11.8) working space. Available on Amazon for $899. What nozzle does it ship with? Would I need a hardened steel nozzle to explore with different filaments?
See this Upgrade: https://store.micro-swiss.com/products/micro-swiss-flowtech-hotend-for-creality-k1-k1-max
Order with C4 nozzle?
See this video for the above upgrade: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5oyQlefpAtA