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General info
General info
Roma! Just like how Paolo Rumiz felt as he walked the length of the Ancient Appian Way (see below in Hangouts > via Appia Antica....Google Sites please bring back HTML editing on Google Sites), Rome conjures up a surge of intense, mixed feelings for me. Just as much as it is a frustrating and chaotic environment to live in (where things don't work half the time), full of the gritty and maddening vices that come with big cities, when I think of Rome, I think "ALL HEART". You usually get your lot of the really genuinely nice people and the not-so-nice ones, or the helpful and not so helpful ones -- but this is one of the very few places where I feel filled with the force of all the helpful and genuinely warm random strangers...it is such an amazing feeling and reminds me of my scouring the streets of L.A. as a kid -- but much more! The ones who jump in and rimboccarsi le maniche (roll up their sleeves) and create a cocoon around you as the chaos that is Rome abounds all around.
It's also a place teeming with amazing food, art, culture, architecture (check out Yale U's Prof. Diana Kleiner's wonderful course on Roman architecture on Coursera to appreciate the architectural, engineering, and historical richness in everything around you in Rome). I put Rome in the league of L.A. in so many different aspects, down to the amazing range of things that the city has to offer, including the whole range of contrasts of alienating for some but oh-so nurturing if you really see it for it.
General classified ads
General classified ads
Used bikes, other second-hand items, and apartments for rent
Subito (most active)
Apartment hunting
Apartment hunting
According to a field study conducted in 2011 in over 35 major Italian cities, there doesn't seem to be a general nationwide discrimination in the rental market against foreign-sounding names (Muslim or Arab, Eastern-European or Italian) and sex, but foreign-sounding male names requesting for more information on a rental received fewer positive responses across the country except in southern Italy where Muslim or Arab-sounding male names received far fewer replies but not East-European-sounding male names. Overall, discrimination was highest in northern Italy and for smaller or cheaper apartments.
Where to look for ads
Where to look for ads
Watch out for scam ads -- loads of them for Rome...tell-tale signs:
much cheaper than other ads
photos that look too clean/modern/design like they're out of an architectural magazine
if they ask for a deposit or contract signing before visiting the apartment
Besides the Immobiliare/Immobili section of the general classified ads above, also check out
What to expect
What to expect
Guide to renting in Italy from Romeing and cribmed (with mini-vocab)
Learning about Italian foods
Learning about Italian foods
THE source: Gambero Rosso (Food magazine). They have an excellent YouTube channel.
Also check out Italia Squisita's YouTube channel (some of their videos have English subtitles). Particularly entertaining are their videos Le reazioni degli chef italiani where Italian chefs review foreign-chef and amateur-cook takes on Italian classics (there are always follow-up videos to show you the right way to prepare them) -- you quickly realize how absolute militant and purist Italians are about their classic dishes!
ROME
ROME
Rome is divided into 19 Municipi:
Municipio I is the historical center and is divided into 22 rioni (neighborhoods):
Map of landmarks to situate yourself
Map of landmarks to situate yourself
(also notable places to see)
!! word of caution !!
!! word of caution !!
pickpocketing, quick swiping, and scam artists EVERYWHERE. watch your valuables or when you're looking up things on your phone especially on public transportation, and especially right before doors close (lots of stories there). you'll see signs everywhere about not asking information from anyone except for staff or officials and being careful when being approached by people asking for information or trying to wipe off something they spilled on you.
TRASTEVERE
TRASTEVERE
This neighborhood, hugging the left bank of the Tevere just southeast of the Vatican, is THE eat and drink nightlife neighborhood...and according to this map below also a happening place for drug dealers.
Best deli in Rome: Antica Caciara
Best deli in Rome: Antica Caciara
Via di San Francesco a Ripa, 140A/B
Trastevere
The absolute best place to get charcuterie and cheeses like local pecorino romano especially to bring home (they'll vacuum-pack it for you). I have probably shuttled about 50 kg of pecorino romano from here (best priced and still the best pecorino romano I've had)! The friendliest mom and pop shop EVER, with the ever so gentle and simpaticissimo Roberto Polica at the counter for over 50 years. His grandfather, who opened up the shop in 1900, would be damn proud.
THE local pizzeria: Dar Poeta
THE local pizzeria: Dar Poeta
Vicolo del Bologna, 45/46
Trastevere
"Na novella giunge lesta,
‘na sorpresa ormai s’appresta.
È Dar poeta che se sdoppia a Trastevere e sull’Appia.
Co’ ‘na pizza e ‘na biretta daje vacce che t’aspetta"
Wood-burning stove, very à la Romana down to the usually packed (and loud) dining room. Loved by locals (though not sure if it is my favorite...but crust is good). If you want a real stomach-lumper, finish off with their calzone con Nutella -- you have a choice with (pictured in the photo) or without ricotta.
my local bakery for pizza by the slice: La Renella Panificio
my local bakery for pizza by the slice: La Renella Panificio
Via del Moro, 15
Trastevere
Pizza by the weight from a bakery that has an oven fueled by hazelnut shells instead of wood like in the days of Julius Caesar (Giovanni showing you the oven below)...so I was told but the sign says wood... This is where I go for my daily pizza fix.
Oh, they specialize in biscotti and ciambelloni but I never got past the pizza.
charity-run restaurant: Trattoria degli Amici
charity-run restaurant: Trattoria degli Amici
Piazza S. Egidio, 6
Trastevere
For general good food from a restaurant founded by la Comunità di Sant’Egidio (Catholic charity who also runs a soup kitchen nearby) cos they wanted a place where people with mental and physical disabilities could work alongside some top chefs.
After wandering around the huge Porta Portese Sunday flea market, head towards Smoke Ring for the most authentic American-style BBQ I've seen on this side of the pond. Think: super tender BBQ'd meats. Vegetarians do have options of the wonderful classic sides like slaw, mac'n'cheese and mashed or baked potatoes. There is an amazing selection of crafts beer!! It's nestled in among the more industrial, factory side of town, but don't be deterred. Wonderful ambiance inside and awesome food and drink.
While you are in Trastevere, check out the neighborhood church. Founded in the 3rd century with lots of gold mosaics and columns taken from other sites like the Baths of Caracalla (you'll see none of the columns match).
NEAR CASTEL SANT'ANGELO / PIAZZA NAVONA (rioni BORGO / PARIONE)
NEAR CASTEL SANT'ANGELO / PIAZZA NAVONA (rioni BORGO / PARIONE)
(left and right, respectively, below)
After getting yourself blessed at the Città del Vaticano, grab a pizza at Pizzarium which is a bit of a walk north, away from everything but sooo worth it (or wait...) then go to Castel Sant'angelo ("Castle Saint Angel" or Hadrian's Mauseoleum), cross the bridge Ponte Sant'Angelo, mentioned in Dante's La Divina Commedia (Divine Comedy; XVIII, 28-33) as well as by Henry Wadsworth Fellow, and if you didn't grab pizza yet, get it at La Pizza del Teatro (if it is still open....owned by the same chef at Bonci/Pizzarium) -- and finish it with some ice cream next door. Then head to Piazza Navona to get a tartufo (chocolate ice cream truffle at Tre Scalini just off the square).
Hold off on coffee until you head to the Pantheon.
Details below.
THE best pizza al taglio (by the slice): Bonci pizza rustica (formerly Pizzarium)
THE best pizza al taglio (by the slice): Bonci pizza rustica (formerly Pizzarium)
Via della Meloria, 43, 00136 Roma
northwest of the Vatican
Bonci is a Roman institution!! This is hands down my absolute favorite pizza-by-the-slice (sheet pizza) joint. Owned by Chef Gabriele Bonci, of RAI Uno's La prova del cuoco fame (Italian spin-off of the BBC Ready Steady Cook) and dubbed the king of the Roman pizza, this is where your mind is blown away with amazing pizza. Gambero Rosso (the Italian Zagat or Michelin) gives Bonci the max rating of 3 wheels in the category of pizza by the slice. It also came in third in Gambero Rosso's 2019 Guida Pizzerie d’Italia (and according to the pics in that article, you have to have tattoos to be a pizzaiolo or all award-winning pizzaiolos have tattoos).
A bit different to your traditional Roman pizza (crispy base, which distinguishes it from a Neapolitan pizza) with traditional toppings -- the base (made from flour from the Piemontese organic and artisanal Mulino Marino, milled with natural stone) is more focaccia-like (so heavier on the oil) but also more grandiose in alveolar structure (read: airy! -- check out the photo below!). Gabriele takes ingredients extremely seriously. Toppings are beautifully balanced in taste and texture.
They also carry lots of local microbrews and also offer deep-fried nibbles. There is no real seating -- stand-up bar inside and outdoors with make-shift benches/seats outdoors.
They also deliver...
Bonci also has a pizza-by-the-slice place that is a lot closer to Castel Sant'angelo and St. Peter's Basilica, but I think it's not as good (and I think it might have closed in the meantime???)
La Pizza del Teatro
La Pizza del Teatro
via dei Coronari
http://www.parlafood.com/bonci-opens-la-pizza-del-teatro-in-central-rome/
favorite ice cream shop: Gelateria del Teatro
favorite ice cream shop: Gelateria del Teatro
Via di San Simone, 70
Grab an ice cream after the pizza at Pizza del Teatro (if it is still open). Fresh ingredients, wonderful new and traditional flavors. Watch them make the ice cream in the room right behind the counter (where Mr. Ice Cream man in white is in the photo above, to the left of the line).
take a break in the courtyard of the cultural center Chiostro del Bramante (Cloisters of Bramante)
take a break in the courtyard of the cultural center Chiostro del Bramante (Cloisters of Bramante)
Via Arco della Pace, 5
near Piazza Navona
While you're in the neighborhood, go sit on the 1st floor above the courtyard of this place to enjoy the beautiful Renaissance architecture commissioned by Cardinal Oliviero Carafa in the 1500s and maybe have a coffee (haven't tried the coffee but food is decent at the museum cafeteria/bistro).
This international cultural center and art museum hosts very high-profile exhibits (think: Escher, Banksy) -- never been but I come here often to just sit in the built-in seats of the wall looking over the inner courtyard. Bring your sketchbook. Or just a book.
NEAR PANTHEON (rione PIGNA)
NEAR PANTHEON (rione PIGNA)
best coffee: La Casa Del Caffè Tazza d'Oro ("The Golden Cup Cafe")
best coffee: La Casa Del Caffè Tazza d'Oro ("The Golden Cup Cafe")
via dei Pastini 11
(with the Pantheon behind you, about 1pm off the square -- yellow lettering)
My favorite coffee. Unfortunately very touristy, being within spitting distance of the Pantheon.
Pay at the register first and take your receipt to the bar. Drink it the Italian way: at the bar. Or there are a couple of benches inside (but don't count on it -- when it's packed, it's packed). Grab some coffee to make at home.
Their coffee granita (with or without whipped cream -- be prepared for a lot of whipped cream, see photo below) is YUM.
reputedly best coffee in Rome: Sant'Eustachio Il Caffè
reputedly best coffee in Rome: Sant'Eustachio Il Caffè
Piazza di S. Eustachio, 82
...I personally like Tazza d'Oro better -- though if you want to sit, you have more chances here because there is seating outside on the square (comes with the fact that they have more cornetti to go with your coffee) BUT although it's not as touristy, this is a popular local hangout and is often packed. Despite new owners since it opened in 1938, coffee is roasted here the same way with the same wood-fired roaster.
By default they put sugar in ALL their coffees -- if you don't take sugar, you have to ask them not to put any in when you order.
near PIAZZA DI SPAGNA (rione CAMPO MARZIO)
near PIAZZA DI SPAGNA (rione CAMPO MARZIO)
via della Croce, 82
(30 m from P.za di Spagna)
(but hotly debated)...Grab a serving of tiramisu or three or get the party size -- or get ice cream or of the many of the other desserts they have -- and go have it on the Scalinata di Trinità dei Monti (Spanish Steps) -- they're all good...classic and banana are better than pistachio though (pistachio aficionado speaking)
HANGOUTS
HANGOUTS
via dei Prefetti, 22
(between Piazza Navona and the Spanish Steps)
What a selection of books (handpicked from small and medium-sized publishing houses and specializing on fiction and graphic design)! What a space! This is most possibly hands down my favorite store in Rome. My coveted secret hangout place where I come to escape and to discover. There's also a local-favorite ice cream shop and a Sicilian pastry shop nearby (but I've had better so I'll leave it to you to find out what they are). Fandango Incontro is a space to experience and share literature, cinema, art and theater. There's a cafe with seating in a covered inner courtyard nestled between buildings that turns into an event center where they hold public talks, readings, concerts. They have wonderful exhibitions (often free) on all three floors and a theater lab. I saw my two favorite photo exhibits here -- one by Wim Wenders and the other by Franco Fontana. Oh and there's free WiFi.
via Appia Antica (The Ancient Appian Way)
via Appia Antica (The Ancient Appian Way)
Just south of Circo Massimo and Terme di Caracalla (Caracalla Roman Baths), this ancient path completed in 264 B.C. is still flagstoned most of the way -- an archaeologist's paradise! (Description by the Società Friulana di Aracheologia...in Italian)
Go and visit one or two of the 5 catacombs at the end closer to the city center (there are more than 60 in Rome). It's a nice stretch for a bike ride (albeit very bumpy). On Sundays, the road is closed off to non-local traffic. Really cool to ride the length of the Appia Antica up to Castel Gandolfo (the pope's summer palace) which is a wonderful spot to wander around in (old town + lake) -- start early, though, as it is about a 2-hr ride away.
Or you can ride all the way to the heel of Italy to the Port of Brindisi....590 km, 2270m ascent, 2326m descent, which would take you 13 days if you cycled 50km/day (get the GPX). You could also walk it (about 29 days) the way Paolo Rumiz did and wrote about in his book Appia. In these video interviews (in Italian but with scenes of his walk and also links to download maps and GPS data), he talks about the physical difficulty and the paradoxical feeling of wonder and indignation during his walk -- but that the farther south he went, the more amazing heart-warming examples of humanity he encountered.
View of the city: Il Vittoriano at the Piazza Venezia (rioni PIGNA/CAMPITELLI)
View of the city: Il Vittoriano at the Piazza Venezia (rioni PIGNA/CAMPITELLI)
Go up to the terrace.
A slideshow of Il Vittoriano over the years since its construction in 1905.
Via della Navicella / Via di Santa Stefano Rotondo
On the Celian Hill near Circo Massimo, this round church is one of my favorite churches in Rome because it is more like an archaeological site.
One of the oldest Christian churches consecrated in the mid 400s, with a rare concentric circular layout (innermost circle: 42 m in diameter, outermost circle: 66 m in diameter), but excavations (it looks like one inside, too) show that it was built on an altar dedicated to the Persian deity Mithras and there are frescos that personify the moon. The macabre murals of Roman martyrs graphically being tortured as many ways possible (with the name of the emperor who ordered each type of torture above each mural) were added in the 16th century. Charles Dickens were horrified by them (Pictures from Italy, 1846).
Best of the fine foods of Italy under one roof: Eataly (neighborhood: GARBATELLA)
Best of the fine foods of Italy under one roof: Eataly (neighborhood: GARBATELLA)
Piazzale XII Ottobre 1492 - 00154 Rome (Metro B - Piramide stop)
Housed in the old Ostiense station, Eataly finally opened in Rome in 2012 (the first one was in Torino in 2007). Grocers, bakers, wine merchants, cheese mongers, butchers, restaurants -- even an art/cultural exhibition floor. They also carry Pasticceria Bonci's panettoni, by the way, which apparently are exceptional.
Romantic poet lover's cemetery: Cimitero Acattolico (Non-Catholic/Protestant Cemetery) (rione TESTACCIO)
Romantic poet lover's cemetery: Cimitero Acattolico (Non-Catholic/Protestant Cemetery) (rione TESTACCIO)
entrance: Via Caio Cestio, 6
(Metro B, stop Piramide)
One of the oldest burial grounds in Europe in continuous use dating back to at least 1738, easily spottable by the Pyramid of Cestius dating back between 18 and 12 B.C. and bounded by the ancient Aurelian wall. And home to one of Rome's wild cat colonies. John Keats and Percy Bysshe Shelley, Goethe's only son RIP here.
Favorite Events
Favorite Events
My go-to to see what's on today (always loads happening):
Romeing (awesome resource -- also paper edition with interesting and useful articles)
City of Rome official events website (in Italian, tho)
Live Rome Guide (only in Italian, tho)
MAY
MAY
SUMMER
SUMMER
[WHITSUNDAY (MAY/JUNE)] La Pioggia di Petali di Rosa di Pentecoste al Pantheon
[WHITSUNDAY (MAY/JUNE)] La Pioggia di Petali di Rosa di Pentecoste al Pantheon
Pantheon (rione PIGNA)
The firefighters climb up the Pantheon (Gk. pan = "everything", theon = divine") aka Santa Maria dei Martiri (Saint Maria of the Martyrs) -- that's about 43 m high -- with 12 sacks of rose petals on Whit Sunday / Pentecost (the 50th day of Easter). Directly after the 10:30 a.m. mass inside the Pantheon (get there at least 2 hrs before if you want to get in!), which ends about noon, a rain of rose petals come through the 9-m diameter oculus of the biggest brick dome that exists even today. This is a continuation of a 2000-yr-old tradition. Roses represent both the love of the Holy Spirit and the blood of Christ sacrificed for humanity.
This is apparently not the only time roses rain from the ceiling in Rome -- on Aug. 5th, apparently a rain of roses comes down at Santa Maria Maggiore.
[JUNE/JULY] Festival Internazionale di Villa Adriana
[JUNE/JULY] Festival Internazionale di Villa Adriana
theater/music/modern dance performances outdoors among the ruins of Hadrian's Villa (which is more like a town) -- BEAUTIFUL and certainly one of the favorite things that I did while in Rome
tx for performances usually from the city concert hall, Auditorium Parco della Musica
a coach bus will take you from the Auditorium Parco della Musica (which is a little out of town) to Villa Adriana (which is a long ways out of town)
also option to take an earlier coach and get a tour of Villa Adriana (you are not allowed to wander around on your own)
[JUNE-AUG] Lungo il Tevere Roma (Along the Tiber River)
[JUNE-AUG] Lungo il Tevere Roma (Along the Tiber River)
Tents for bars, shops, restaurants set up along the Tiber River (Tevere) with live music and outdoor cinema 7pm-2am
[JULY-AUG] Roma Opera Aperta - (Opera Theater Rome's open-air performances)
[JULY-AUG] Roma Opera Aperta - (Opera Theater Rome's open-air performances)
Opera, dance and music performances organized by Teatro dell'Opera di Roma under the stars set in the ruins of Roman baths or Circo Massimo.
Check out the program and get tx from Opera Roma for Terme di Caracalla or Circo Massimo.
[AUG/SEPT] Concerti del Tempietto al Teatro di Marcello (rione CAMPO MARZIO)
[AUG/SEPT] Concerti del Tempietto al Teatro di Marcello (rione CAMPO MARZIO)
(in the Ghetto/near Trastevere)
classical music concerts in the ruins of Marcello's amphitheater -- the only surviving ancient theater in Rome, built about 179 B.C. (Julius Cesar started works, and it was finished by Augustus)
get tx here (€14, €25, €36)
WINTER
WINTER
from 8pm-2am, €1 entry/museum -- live music in various exhibition halls
Atmospheric. AWESOME. One of my highlights in Rome.
VERONA
VERONA
UNDER CONSTRUCTION
part 2/3
some random notes (and maybe lesser known spots)
_________EVENTS_________
* [END of JUNE - END of AUG] outdoor opera in Verona's Arena
* [JUNE] outdoor jazz concerts in the Teatro Romano
http://www.eventiverona.it/index.php/verona-jazz-17/
* [JUNE] outdoor vocal artist concerts in the Teatro Romano
http://www.eventiverona.it/index.php/rumors-festival-illazioni-vocali/
* [AUG] outdoor dance performances in the Teatro Romano
* TEATRO ROMANO event OVERVIEW
_________SOME STUFF TO DO_________
* general events page:
https://www.cittadiverona.it/eventi/vista-settimanale/
Lots of festivals happen in the Arsenale (beer festival, wine festival, organic foods festival, handicrafts festival, you-name-a-saint festivals....)
* slackline in a city park (Parco San Giacomo)!
Slacklining club sets up slacklines in a patch in San Giacomo Park (a bit south of the town center) during the summer -- usu. Thurs evenings after 7pm
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1482016745394956/
* events @ Giardini Pubblici Arsenale
They have an ankle-high fountain you can wade in -- great in the summers! Sometimes the folklore dance club gives lessons in the summer evenings in the fountain
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Giardini-Pubblici-Arsenale/366844260116217
_________BARS with MUSIC/APERITIVO/just drinks_________
* Osteria Ai Preti
Interrato dell' Acqua Morta, 27, 37129 Verona
Sometimes live music in the evenings (rock, folk). Popular college student hangout.
https://www.facebook.com/Osteria-Ai-Preti-333961790129799/
* (bar)associazione Malacarne
Via San Vitale, 14/a - Verona
also sometimes has live music in the evenings (rock, folk). Popular college student hangout.
http://www.malacarne.it/home.php
https://www.facebook.com/malacarne.barassociazione/
* Osteria del Bugiardo
Corso Porta Borsari, 17/A, 37121
http://www.buglioni.it/en/osteria/
a MUST bar with aperitivo (great food) + local wines
* Le Cantine de l'Arena
Piazzetta Scalette Rubiani, 1 37121 VERONA
http://www.lecantine-arena.com/live-music/
Also a higher end restaurant (apparently very good food and wines) on the ground floor but in the cellar ("cantina"), they do mostly aperitivo (drinks and light meal) + music in the evenings -- jazz, soul, rock, fusion.
* Dolciaria Cantonucci
Interrato Dell'Acqua Morta 46, 37129, Verona
https://www.facebook.com/DolciariaCantonucci/
Tiny local place that specializes in regional sweets but also aperitivo and sometimes live music -- great atmosphere
* Osteria La Mandorla
Via Alberto Mario 23 Verona
https://www.facebook.com/OsteriaLaMandorla/
only drinks; tiny wine bar; nice location
* Enoteca Oreste Dal Zovo
Vicolo San Marco in Foro 7, 37121, Verona
http://www.enotecadalzovo.it/home.asp?lingua=English
personally haven't been but told this is a great wine bar for good wines for cheap
_________PLACES TO EAT_________
* Trattoria da Ropeton
1, Via Fontana Del Ferro - 37129 Verona
tel: 045 8030040
http://www.trattoriadaropeton.it/
My fav restaurant in Verona. I take EVERY one of my visitors to this place just love the down-to-earth and friendly family dining room feeling and home cooking. Family restaurant with very typical Veronese food -- mom's in the kitchen, dad's serving and singing (sporadically) in the dining room along with the "kids"; near the Roman Theater
12-14:30, 19:30-23:00, closed Tue
really good homemade tiramisu made from DOC mascarpone from the hills of verona and local eggs
Veronese specialties are horse meat, donkey meat, and polenta
* Peperino Pizza & Grill
piazzetta municipio, 10
http://www.peperinopizza.it/it/verona
In general, pizza is kind of bad in Verona -- this is the best pizza in Verona that I have tried, started up by a couple of Neapolitans living up North; the pizza dough is risen for min. 24 hrs)
* Tarantella
Via Tre Marchetti, 13/a Verona
Neapolitan take-away beside the Arena (they have tables in a nice small courtyard, too) with yummy always freshly made deep-fried pizzas and arrancini, among other things
* L'Arte del Gelato
Via Leoni, 3 37121 Verona
my fav gelateria in Verona, on same street as Giulietta's house
* Caffè Borsari
Corso Porta Borsari
Verona 37121
https://www.facebook.com/Caff%C3%A8-Borsari-429507137121555/
TINY cafe and coffee/tea shop (3 tables) but wonderful coffee and quaint -- maybe nice break when walking in the old town center. Apparently rated to be the best cafe in Verona.
Order your drinks, self-serve pastries and chocolates that you find on the counter and pay when you're done (telling them what you had)
* Laboratorio Di Torrefazione Giamaica Caffè
A 4-generation family-run local coffee roasters (now one of my absolute fav places in VR!). They don't sell direct to the public, though....keep an eye out for them around town! Check out my extended description here.
_________VIEWPOINT_________
walk up the wide steps beside Teatro Romano up to Castel San Pietro -- pretty day or night. Bring some beers and a guitar
You're headed for the top of the brick wall
Follow the dotted line just to the left of Ponte Pietra (the old Roman
"stone" bridge)
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