Customized wires in Tank v2 kits are zip-tied in different groups.
The endstop wire polarities of BigTreeTech and Mellow are different. Please swap the wires if necessary.
Some of the terminals are connected by the clamping force of the terminal itself. Please double check that they are firmly connected.
If you plan to solder the terminals, cover the joint with enough solder to lower the electrical resistance and possible heat generated. Common solder has a melting temperature 180~240°C which is higher than the wire sheath. Avoid use low temperature (100~130°C) solder.
Terminal block
Bus bar, Red
Bus bar, Black
Power switch
Power supply unit
AWG16, 10cm, Red (L)
AWG16, 10cm, Black (N)
AWG16, 10cm, Yellow-Green (GND)
Install the power switch at the left side of the frame (beta version), or the lower slot (formal version).
Before connecting other electronic components, test the power supply unit independently first.
Make sure you have chosen the AC voltage in the PSU suitable for your country.
Connect the red, black and blue wires of the power socket to L, N, and ⏚ (ground) terminals on the PSU.
Turn the switch ON and see if the indicator is lit. The fan will turn only when temperature condition is met.
If you have a multi-meter, verify voltages of each terminal.
Connect the grounding wire to the frame. If your frame is black, grind the black layer off so the wire contacts with bare aluminum material.
Under normal condition there is NO electricity at the grounding wire and frame. The grounding wire provides a bypass path in short circuit condition and prevent you from electric shock.
If an abnormal short circuit condition happens, the circuit breaker in your house breaks and stops providing electricity immediately.
Double confirm the connectors both at the switch side and PSU side are FIRMLY CONNECTED. Heat will accumulate at a loose contact point, melt surrounding plastics and cause short-circuit!
Voltage surge/spike can easily damage uncertain part of components, with a clear pop sound or silently. You'll cry!
Wrong wire polarity might result in short circuit and damage your device too.
A careless touch might result in short circuit too.
Your probe might touch multiple pins at the same time and results in short circuit.
Octopus Pro board
AWG16, 35cm, Red (Power+)
AWG16, 35cm, Black (Power-)
AWG16, 5cm, Red (x2) (Daisy chain +)
AWG16, 5cm, Black (x2) (Daisy chain -)
Be ware of the L & R driver positions to meet the CoreXY belt route in Tank v2.
600w bed heater
SSR
Fuse box
AWG20, 35cm, Red (Ctrl +)
AWG20, 35cm, Black (Ctrl -)
AWG16, 20cm, Red (Fuse-TerminalBlock)
AWG16, 5cm, Red (Fuse-SSR)
PTC heater
Power switch
SSR
Fuse box
Group D
AWG20, 35cm, Red (Ctrl +)
AWG20, 35cm, Black (Ctrl -)
AWG16, 10cm, Red (Fuse-TerminalBlock)
AWG16, 5cm, Red (Fuse-SSR)
Group G
AWG16, 40cm, Black (PTCHeater-PowerSwitchN)
AWG16, 180cm, Red (Button-PowerSwitchL)
AWG16, 150cm, Red (Button-FusePTCHeater)
(For Beta kits only: The 40cm and 180cm wire above are in wrong colors. 🙏)
For safety reason, the PTC heater is arranged to another power switch and doesn't share the power capacity of the rest of circuit.
Install the other power switch at the right side of the frame (beta version) or the upper slot (formal version).
AWG22 2p, 120cm, Red-Black, XH2.54 2p male-female (x3)
Extenders of hotend thermistor, hotend heatsink cooling fan, part cooling fan
AWG22 2p, 120cm, Red-Black, XH2.54 2p female
Hotend heater extender
AWG22 2p, 80cm, Red-Black-White, XH2.54 3p male, Dupont 2.54 1p male x 3
SuperPINDA extender
Emergency button
AWG16, 120cm, Red (Button-PowerSwitch)
AWG16, 140cm, Red (Button-TerminalBlock)
The emergency stop button is held tightly to the frame by the 2 screws pushing against the surface, so no screw holes of specific dimension are on the frame piece.
Hotend heater extender cable
EBB36 customized cable
The VIN of EBB36 is connected to 24V, not the mains power.
Connect the hotend heater wires to the Octopus Pro board due to power capacity and the limited space near the heater port of EBB36.
Connect the other electric components at the toolhead to the EBB36 board.
(For beta kits only:
Please swap the 2 CANBUS wires for CANBUS function to work.
Please customize and crimp a cable for the X & Z endstops using the pins and XH2.54 5p male connector in the EBB36 box. The X & Z endstop shares the 5-pin socket on the EBB36 board.)
The correct wire connections are shown in the pictures.
Make sure the pins in the connectors are wired to the correct slots in the other connector.
The 120R jumper is put on the EBB36 board.
The VIN of EBB36 is connected to 24V, not the mains power.
If you didn't choose the DAB extruder carriage as Z endstop, an inductive sensor is included in the kit and acts as the Z endstop.
Connect the wires as shown in the picture. Sometimes the color sequence change in different batches, just match the wires based on color and tape them from falling apart.
Plug the ABL sensor to the Z endstop endstop. The polarity of endstop sockets in BigTreeTech board and Mellow board are different. Please follow the according pictures.
The LED on the sensor should light up when no metal object is nearby, and dims while being triggered.
Sometimes you want to check the voltage of a certain pin, be VERY careful if you are probing. A careless short circuit might damage unknown parts of the main board and result in unexpected behavior.
A TMC5160T Plus module has a totally different wiring from a TMC5160 module. We are using four TMC5160T Plus modules here for the quad-stepper setup.
A TMC5160T Plus has a low voltage (24V) side and a high voltage (eg. 48V or higher) side. Wiring to a wrong voltage will burn it.
Below is an example for module placement. (Ehh..the wire arrangement can be improved 😝)
Here is a checklist for you to prevent something wrong
Please print it out and check each items 1-by-1 😉