SWS Detail: 3.0103.1 Access Doors and Hatches; 3.0104.2 Installing New Crawlspace Access
Author: Jake
Follow work order to determine where to cut to install access.
If possible, add access from another unconditioned space such as garage, carport, gable end, or unfinished attic.
An exterior access is preferred for crawl spaces as long as the foundation isn't altered.
If making a crawl space access through the floor attempt to locate it out of a high traffic area.
Verify location with client once location is determined.
Drill 1" diameter hole.
Use stud finder and scope to locate framing and other obstructions.
Be aware of hazards such as electrical wiring, plumbing or, vermiculite.
Use tape or marker to outline opening
For crawl spaces, you may have to remove the floor covering. Be conscious in removal so this can be used as part of the lid. Talk with the client to make sure this is OK.
Ensure when complete that existing floor covering is secured on all edges and is finished off with transition edging made for the flooring material.
If carpet was pulled, make sure it is stretched back so wrinkles will not form.
Preserve material to potentially be used for access lid.
The required size of an attic access is 22"x30" or large enough to remove any equipment located in the attic.
The required size of a crawl space access is 18"x24" or large enough to remove any equipment located in the crawl space.
Be sure to set your blade depth so it does not cut into the joists or trusses.
Install bracing with 2x boards that are the same height as the existing framing. Example: An access in a floor with 2x10 floor joists shall be also framed in with 2x10 boards.
Install bracing to support the attic dam material.
Ensure the opening allows the clear area of 22"x30". minimum after the casing is installed.
The sheetrock can come flush to the edge of the bracing, as it is the casing around the access that will hold the lid.
Install a double-header to support joists.
Install joist hangers on all perpendicular joist intersections including a double-joist hanger for your double-header.
If the access is in an area that will be traveled over frequently, use a dollop of construction glue on the joist hangers and between the sub-flooring and joist before setting the joist to prevent floor squeaks.
Depending on the distance of the opening, you may need to install hangers mid-way and install a removable joist to provide adequate support of the sub-floor.
There should be no sag of the floor surface under normal load when opening cover is installed.
Install the bracing in a way that it will leave a large enough lip on the joist so the lid will be able to rest on it.
Cut and affix casing over rough edge.
Overhang edge of trim 1/2" to the opening.
This provides support to access lid and a place for the access to seat.
Primed or prefabricated trim is required.
This step may not be applicable for crawl space accesses.
Cut drywall or wood panel to fit, allowing for overlap on trim to allow for air sealing of the lid when installed.
For crawlspace accesses, use a plywood that is the same thickness as the original sub-flooring if not using the remnant that was removed. Plyform is a good choice for this due to its rigidness.
For a floor access, insert a recessed pull ring or some other means to act as a grab handle that will not stick above the surface and cause a tripping hazard.
For attics, follow all applicable steps on the Attic Access measure to complete the air boundary and thermal boundary and secure access.
For crawl space lids, install open-cell foam tape around the lip under the lid and secure the lid with screws.
For crawl space accesses, insulate the panel to same R-value as adjoining insulated assembly using rigid foam board & ignition barrier or fiberglass batts and attach with construction adhesive.
Clean up any extra foam and adhesives and fill in nail holes.
Show client the location of the access and advise them on how not to damage the insulation and equipment in space
Beware of hazards such as vermiculite, plumbing, and wiring.