Determine which wall and ceiling assemblies in the garage are attached to the home’s living areas.

Inspect those assemblies for any cracks, holes, gaps, penetrations, or deterioration.

Repair holes in pressure boundary ceilings or walls with sheetrock or plywood.

Seal to ensure a continuous air barrier.

Use caulk or foam to seal any cracks or gaps in walls and ceiling.

Sealants (e.g., caulk, fire-retardant caulk, fire-rated spray foam, etc.) should be compatible with all adjoining surfaces and meet the fire and air barrier specifications according to code.

Areas may include cracks between mud sill, rim joists, subfloors, and bottom of gypsum board.

All lighting fixtures, wiring, plumbing, venting, ducting, and gas piping penetrations will be sealed.

All joints and connections in ductwork will be fastened, sealed and insulated.

For more detail see the Air Seal Duct & Duct Insulation sections in this field guide.

Weather stripping, door sweep, and threshold will be installed as needed to stop air leakage.

Occupant will be educated on need to keep door from garage to house closed.

Educated to not warm up vehicles or use any gas engine appliances or grills in the garage, even if the main door is left open.

Take photo of completed work before insulation is installed that will cover/conceal air sealing work. This is to make sure insulation is not disturbed in the QCI or monitoring processes.

Conduct a Worst Case Draft Test to verify Category I, II and III appliances are venting safely before leaving home for the day.

Testing shall be recorded using the Utah WAP Worst Case Draft Test from.

Follow the work order to complete this measure.

A difference of 50 pascals of pressure with reference to the house is the target pressure for this measure up to the point that your budget has been expended.