Spark Plug Replacement

Get the parts! Your chosen spark plugs and spark plug wires.

Get the tools! Here we see the 3/8" spark plug socket, 6" ratchet extension, anti-seize lubricant, and torque wrench. You'll also need a spark plug gapper.

Take the spark plug gapper and make sure all spark plugs are set to the correct gap. The recommended gapping is roughly 0.040". If you purchase the right spark plugs, the gap should be pretty close to this already.

Apply the anti-seize lubricant onto the threads of each spark plug, as shown on the upper spark plug. Only a thin dab is required. No need to coat it as much as I did in this picture. It simply makes the plugs easier to remove on your next change.

Remove the spark plug wire boot - Grab the rubber boot and pull up, it should come off with a little effort by hand. Do not pull by the wire itself. You'll notice that I did not totally remove the spark plug wires. I kept them on as a reference so I could easily replace them with new wires one by one.

Connect the ratchet extension to the spark plug socket. Place it in the engine, and lightly twist until the spark plug socket locks onto the spark plug.

After the socket is firmly locked around the plug, remove the plug by turning the ratchet in a counter-clockwise circle. You can use the ratchet on the extension here to break the initial tightness.

Once the spark plug is out of the threading, the socket will hold the spark plug, and simply pull it out.

Replace the old spark plug with a new one, perched in the rubber socket. Again, you do not need nearly as much anti-seize as I did in thie picture.

If the car is on flat ground, I typically hold the socket extension (without the ratchet) in the plug well with my thumb and pointer finger to let gravity help point the plug straight down the well. Gently begin twisting the new spark plug in with a clockwise turn with your fingers. It's important to go gently to minimize the event of crossthreading the spark plug in the engine.

Once you are certain its threaded correctly, reattach the ratchet and begin tightening as normal. Most people will tighten until it's a little past hand tight. Or, you can use a Torque wrench to tighten to 11-17 ft-lbs.

After replacing all the spark plugs, you can change the wires easily. It should be simple to know which go where if you left the wires on the coil pack. Simply change them one by one. On both ends, it's simply a friction fit. You'll see in this picture that the ends are slightly turned towards the driver's side. I found it difficult to pull, but if you stand on the passenger's side, you have more leverage to twist the rubber end back and forth a little to break the seal, and then pull it off. Try to avoid pulling from the wire itself, if you want to keep your old ones as spares!

You may opt to put some dielectric grease on the inside perimeter of the rubber boot. Avoid putting the grease on the electrical connector, if possible. The dielectric grease is simply a non-conductive grease that creates a seal between the rubber boot and the coil pack so that it the electrical connector is protected from the elements to prevent possible corroding.

Continue with all four! Make sure you completely insert the spark plug boots into the engine. My Check Engine Light (CEL) came one because I didn't competely push them in all the way.

All done!