Coil Pack Replacement

Time to install: 60 mins

Tools Required: Socket set, Flathead Screwdriver, small knife or X-acto blade, Pliers (if you're having a hard time), Electrical tape (optional)

The following is to replace a coilpack and is specific to 1999-2000 NB1 models. My hands are pretty small, which made it much easier to reach 1 bolt behind the engine. Otherwise, it's quite simple.

Coil packs are expensive, sometimes up to $260-300 USD. I recommend places like MazMart that have much cheaper prices at about $170. The difference is that they will sell you just the small, black coil packs in a pair. Whereas the other stores that sell them in the $250 range also include the entire coilpack bracket which ups the price significantly.

Remove the sparkplug wires from the coilpack located at the end of the valve cover. It may take a little elbow grease, but I found twisting a little helped break the "age" seal allowing them to pop off. Make sure you note the positions so you can put them back on in the correct order!

Here's the coilpack in all it's glory. You need to get to the back, but all those pesky tubes above make for a tight fit. Let's start moving them around!

Use the flathead screwdriver to open up the black clasp and remove the set of black, bundled cable. You won't recognize the wire moving up towards the top of the picture with the green wires exposed, that was for a different project I did.

At the top towards the firewall on the passenger side, are some brackets that hold various lines. Unbolt it with a 10mm socket.

Same thing on the firewall towards the driver's side, remove this bolt as well. This should allow the lines to be slightly moved around, giving you just enough space to get your hands behind the coilpack.

Quick cheat break! Here's a pic of the new coil pack. The two holes at the top give you a rough idea of where the bolts are located. One will also be located at the bottom. Two plugs are attached to each of those black pieces.

On top of the coilpack is one more bundle of wires that is attached with plastic clips. You can try to get under and pinch the clips to remove it. I found it much easier just to get an exacto knife to cut the black electrical tape. When I reinstall the new coilpack, I just taped it back up again.

Take the 12mm socket and remove the bolts from the back.

Remove the other one!

Remove the last one from the bottom with the washer. This one was tough to reach! When it's time to put the new coilpack on, many people opt not to put this one back in, because it's difficult to reach. I haven't put it back on either, and haven't noticed any bad effects.

Remove the plugs from the coilpack. There is a tab you have to depress facing the firewall to unlock it. As a last resort, I used needle-nosed pliers so I could press down on the clip tabs and pull as necessary. These were a little tough to remove as well.

On the right is the old coil pack. You'll want to transfer any parts from the old one to the new one, particularly, the rubber bushing and gray, plastic piece.

If you just purchased the coil packs, simply remove the old ones and replace it with the new coil packs.

If you have the whole coil pack to replace, the rubber bushing can be difficult to remove. I just stuck the metal handle of my ratchet inside and stood on it. Then I pulled up on the coil pack.

Reinstallation is just the reverse steps. Many people skip returning the small, bolt on the bottom of the coil pack. Make sure you return the spark plug wires to the correct locations, and you're all set!