Rear Sway Bar Installation
Difficulty: 1/5
Time to install: 45 mins
Tools Required: 14mm Socket set. If you're small, you can squeeze under the rear of the car; if not use Rhino Ramps, because end links should be set with the car's weight on it. If using jackstands, the process will take about 5 minutes longer.
Sway bars can provide a dramatic change in driving character. Be careful on your spirited drives until you understand how the new bars work, and the various hole settings you can try. I highly recommend visiting www.drivingfast.net so you can review the entries for Oversteer and Understeer. The site itself is great!
Loosen the nuts on the end links; when I removed them, it took only a little amount of force. If they are a bit rusted, some PB Blaster will work to loosen them up. Look closely at the end of the sway bar. You'll notice the ends are slightly twisted inward at the top. You'll want to remember this when you install your new sway bar as well.
The remove the two bolts holding in the sway bar brackets on each side. These took almost no force at all, though the top, passenger side nut is difficult to reach if you have a fairly large ratchet.
Sway bar is out!
Grease up your new bushings, more is better than not enough.
Replace the new sway bar and bushings using the factory brackets. Remember, look at the end of the sway bar to ensure you've put them in correctly.
Both brackets should now hold the sway bar. If you put enough grease, it should slide sideways so you can orient it in the middle. When reconnecting the sway bar and end links, the car should be on the ground or on ramps. If you have the car on jackstands, lightly install the nuts and then tighten them once the car is on the ground.
Your new bar may have multiple hole settings to try. Use the default settings recommended by the manufacturer until you're comfortable with the suspension.