Fuel Pump Replacement

Here are the parts included with my kit. In addition to the parts, you'll need a phillips head screwdriver, small wrench (for a very small nut), wire cutters/wire stripper, and your choice of tool for splicing the wires together.

Slid the insulating jacket on the pump, and placed the tubing on the top of the pump. The insulating jacket is optional, but supposed to decrease larger fuel pump whine.

Use clamps on the hose to the pump. Just left the other one loose on the hose.

Attach the filter.

Each kit will come with a very tiny ring. Place this tightly on the plastic peg to keep the filter on. Apply equal pressure around the ring, so it's placed nice and tight!

Over to the car, push the seats forward, and lift the top carpet. You'll need to pop those stubborn, plastic carpet things out. I tried a panel puller, only with limited success. As long as you apply equal pressure on all sides of the round head, you'll minimize mangling them when pulling them out.

Lift back the carpet. You'll see the cover, use a phillips head screwdriver to remove these around the shield.

The fuel pump assembly is the large ovalish thing on the right.

Remove the plastic electrical harness on the right. The side on the right has a small tab to push in while pulling. Remove the two fuel hoses by pressing in the white clips. I recommend putting a rag underneath each hose as you pull, as a little gasoline will spill out. Also have something to plug up the hoses once off. A white-tube BIC pen will usually fit, then face the hoses up to help with spillage.

Remove all of the small screws around the edge of the fuel pump assembly base. Also use a small wrench or ratchet to remove the small nut shown on the right.

Fuel pump is out! Notice the long, metal arm with the black box on it. Do not bend this, or it will ruin cause you fuel level readings to be off!

Remove the screw at the end of the pump assembly that holds in the pump.

Loosen the top hose clamp, then pull of the existing pump from the assembly.

Measure out how much of the new tube length you'll need to appropriately fit the new pump. Cut to size.

Slip the new pump assembly on, leave top clamp loose.

The new pump should come with a new rubber base to absorb vibration. Put this on, and then fit the metal bracket back on with the screw. This is sort of a game, you want the pump to sit as far down the lenght of the pump assembly as possible, so that the foot of the bracket firmly pushes up against it. If the pump is fixed too high, the bracket won't keep the rubber grommet won't be sandwiched firmly in between. Once you have it nice and tight, tighten up the clamp back up on top of the rubber hose.

Add a zip tie around the pump and the pump assembly.

A pic of the stock fuel pump. Black is ground, blue is power.

Cut the original wire harness that was connected to the original pump. Strip the ends of the wires so they can connect to the new pump's harness.

It is best to connect the wiring with solder and liquid electrical tape or heat shrink. This image is outdated, but DO NOT USE POSI-LOCK CONNECTORS in the fuel tank, they could not hold up to the gasoline. I just recommend cutting to an appropriate size that's not too long and try to seal it up with a bit of heat shrink or something if possible. Make sure nothing is exposed so they don't ground out, but an air tight connection is not necessary (you can see exposed contacts on the existing stock pump).

Plug in the wire harness to the new pump. You're all set, put the pump back in. Before putting the shield and carpet back on, connect the power again, and make sure the car starts up!