Embedded Files
Difficulty: 2/5
Time to install: 90 mins
Tools Required:
Flathead and Phillips head screwdrivers
Jeweller's/Eyeglass Repair Kit Phillips head screw driver
Small prying tool - I used the handle of a nail clipper, since it's flat but rounded,
Microfiber cloth (optional)
This is a very easy project, you just want to have a gentle hand, so you don't scratch up your plastic. If you want, you can spread towels on the dash and other areas to help protect it.
When you purchase your guages, determine whether they come with the needle stops/pins. If you look at your stock gauges, they are the small pins that allow the speedometer and tachometer needles to rest at 0. If the needles weren't there, the needles would actually rest and a lower spot! If your set does not have the pins, you'll have to reuse the ones from your old gauge faces.
Before starting this mod, you'll need to take the needles off. Get the car's engine nice and hot, ane make a note of all the guage locations. It is also extremely important note the gas gauge, and it makes it MUCH easier if you fill the gas tank so you know the needle is a Full. Even then, look at the needle, because they are never that perfectly aligned with the marks on the gauges.
Underneath the steering column cover are three screws you need to remove.
Once the screws are removed, pull the top and bottom or the cover apart. It should come apart very easily. Then you just remove the top potion, you can leave the bottom as is.
This is your sneak peak before attempting to remove the gauge cluster. Notice the location of the 5 panel clips. The two bottom ones are where we'll start, and can be undone with the prying tool (such as a flathead screwdriver) that you'll use next.
Instead of a flathead screwdriver, I used the end of a nail clipper, since the edges are rounded to avoid scratching the interior. Use whatever you want, but on the sides of the steering column push in, then down to pry the gauge hood out from its clips on both sides.
Starting from one end to the other, start pulling away - with a firm hand, but gently! It will slowly pull out for the remaining 3 clips on the back.
The guage's rear is white plastic, and mounted by 4 screws on the corners.
This is a picture through the windshield. There are three harnesses. Just push down the button on each harness and pull each out. You should be able to remove the whole cluster now!
The clear cover is held on by locked tabs. Go around the cluster and press down, and push each tab back out of its mounting position.
Remove the black frame with the exact same method as the step above.
We're now ready to remove the needles.
Here's my gauge needle removing tool. I took some thin cardboard (the flyers you get from the mail) and cut a slit about 2mm wide. Then cut a V in it so it'll catch under the needle cap easier. This has good benefits over other methods. It's paper, so it won't scratch anything, and it's free!
Slide the cardstock underneath the needles. Then grab the "V" section on the other side with your fingers to close the gap. With both hands, pull up to pop them off.
Take the jeweler's screw driver and carefully remove the screws from the faces. I do one face at a time just to minimize and confusion. Since the screws are black, be careful, and press down firmly while unscrewing. This will help avoid slipping and scuffing the screw heads so that they appear all scratched up. Also it'll help prevent you from slipping and scratching the face! It's really pretty difficult to mess this up, but just a consideration.
Put the new faces on, and replace the screws. Do not put the needles on yet.
Place the console back in the car. Attach the wire harnesses, and screw it back in. Start the car up. If it's still hot, the needles should return to their original positions. Lightly place the needles back in their places.
Gas - If you filled up the gas tank, the gas can go on Full
Tachometer - place this at you idle, which should be between 850-950 RPM
Oil Pressure - If the car is at operating temperature, set it to the middle position. If you've upgraded your Oil Presser Sender, this is a good time to experiment a little.
Water Temperature - If at oprating temperature, put it in the middle.
Speedometer - This is the only one I had a little trouble with. Sitting at a standstill, I put it at 0, but I knew this was off. At 4K RPM, I was usually at about 80 MPH. With the new position, I was showing 84MPG.
I drove around with the gauge hood off for a while to make sure everything was satisfactory. On an empty road, I had a friend drive a separate car so I could compare different speeds and fine tune the needle position. Once I was happy, I pressed all of the needles back on. I gave the lens a quick plastic polish and wiped off any dust. Snapped the lens and gauge hood back in, and reattach the screws for the steering column cover.
All done!
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