SRP Racing Pedals
Difficulty: 2/5
Time to install: 60 mins
Tools Required: Drill and bit set, pencil, small wrench or socket set. If you want to clean up your pedals a bit before installation: 3M Automotive Double-sided (optional), Black Spray Paint (optional), plastic bag.
SRP Racing Pedals are popular pedals among Miata enthusiats. Made of aluminum, you can choose between three different logos: "M", "Roadster", or "Miata". The price for these pedals can range, but I found the cheapest purchase from Ebay, at $50.00 a set. SRP also sells different styles of pedals, so take a look!
The hardest part about this is just having the stamina to stay cramped in the area below the dash for an extended period of time. It's also important to use the right tools. It's important to use some nice, new, sharp drill bits, and use the most power drill possible. It'll make the work much easier and faster. The 12 volt drill took me quite a bit of time to use. When I upped to an 18 volt drill, piece of cake.
Here are the parts supplied, for manual transmission, 4 pedals, a set of nuts and bolts, 4 screws, a small allen key that came with the set.
In addition to the small allen key provided in the installation package, you'll also need:
Drill and drill bit set
Masking tape (to hold the pedals temporarily in place_
Pencil to mark pilot holes
Small ratchet or wrench to hold the nuts in place while tightening the allen head screws
Optional: 3M Automotive, Double-Sided tape
Optional: Black Spray Paint
Optional: Plastic or paper bags to protect the interior from quick blasts of spray paint.
One last look at your stock pedals!
Started with the easiest - the dead pedal! Here I place some duct tape on the back for a temporary hold on the foot rest. This is important, because you shouldn't try drilling through with the pedal on, as slipping can easily scratch the aluminum.
Once you've managed to place it where it's nice and straight, drill small leader holes. I simply used a small drill bit by hand. It should be smaller than the screw that will hold this pedal down, but large enough to not split the plastic foot rest! Once the leader holes are made, remove the duct tape, and using the Phillips head screws, tighten the dead pedal down to the foot rest.
On to the second easiest pedal, the gas pedal. This is the thinnest of the pedals. First, try to match up the holes in the SRP pedal with the stock pedal. If it doesn't seem to match up correctly, flip it around and try that way.
While holding the pedal in place, use a marker or pen to mark your future drill holes. I then used a small drill bit to make a dimple in the metal, before moving on to the larger drill bit for the full-sized hole. This help minimize slips. Then I lightly screwed down the pedal for a test fit!
This step is optional, but I think it's a good idea. After confirming the pedal fits, I removed it, and put a bag around the pedal. Then I spray painted it black to cover up all of the scuffs on the original plate. After it dried, I put some double-sided foam tape on the back of the pedal in small bits. I feel this really helped the pedal cover get a nice grip on the stock pedal. Using a 10mm socket and the allen key, I tightened it down.
The clutch and brake are exactly the same, so I'm showing only one set of steps. This pic is out of step, but you can see, some of the holes got pretty fouled up. Here are the precautions:
As you can see, the stock pedals aren't even at the same height. So don't base your height in comparison to the stock pedal.
Not only are they of different heights, close inspection will show that the stock pedals aren't even perfect rectangular cuts. So don't base the straightness of your SRP pedal by gauging it against the edge of the stock pedal.
The lever/bar of the pedals aren't perfectly welded straight on the pedal base. That means you must check the back of the pedal to make sure where you drill is not blocked by the welded lever/bar! Also check that there is sufficient space for the nut to screw around the bolt!
Begin by removing the rubber covers. They simply wrap over the metal bases.
Keeping in mind the tips from 2 pics above, place your pedals and mark your drill holes with a pencil or pen.
I start drilling the holes on my marks. I'm using a small bit just to get the hole started, and I'll graduate to a larger bit. If you don't have a powerful drill, you might try successive drill bits sizes until you get to the size required.placed a little double-sided foam tape on between the pedal and the pedal cover, and then tightened it down with the ratchet and allen key. I still had problems getting all the screws to fit, because of the bar welded to the back. I ended up cutting the head of one of the screws, and glued it into place with some silicone so it'd look complete. Once again, because I lost the use of one screw, double-sided tape was helpful.
Again, I've painted the pedals black to remove scuffs and ensure it matches the gas pedal. Then I've placed a little double-sided foam tape on between the pedal and the pedal cover, and then tightened it down with the ratchet and allen key. I still had problems getting all the screws to fit, because of the bar welded to the back. I ended up cutting the head of one of the screws, and glued it into place with some silicone so it'd look complete. Once again, because I lost the use of one screw, double-sided tape was helpful.