the world of fresh pasta

what is pasta?

Pasta; Italian pronunciation: [ˈpasta]) is a type of food typically made from an unleavened dough of wheat flour mixed with water or eggs, and formed into sheets or other shapes, then cooked by boiling or baking. Rice flour, or legumes such as beans or lentils, are sometimes used in place of wheat flour to yield a different taste and texture, or as a gluten-free alternative. Pasta is a staple food of Italian cuisine.

Pastas are divided into two broad categories: dried (pasta secca) and fresh (pasta fresca). Most dried pasta is produced commercially via an extrusion process, although it can be produced at home. Fresh pasta is traditionally produced by hand, sometimes with the aid of simple machines. Fresh pastas available in grocery stores are produced commercially by large-scale machines.

bonus: did you know?

One of the greatest myths of all time is that fresh pasta is better than dried pasta. This belief has spread far and wide for many reasons, but unfortunately, it’s just not that simple — and it’s certainly not true. Dried pasta, in many cases, is created with better ingredients, making it tastier and more nutritious. It’s hard to say if either dried pasta or fresh pasta is simply better than the other, as there are plenty of details from ingredients used to drying method that need to be accounted for. We’ll unpack everything you need to know about the differences in fresh pasta and dried pasta.

Both dried and fresh pastas come in a number of shapes and varieties, with 310 specific forms known by over 1,300 documented names. In Italy, the names of specific pasta shapes or types often vary by locale. For example, the pasta form cavatelli is known by 28 different names depending upon the town and region. Common forms of pasta include long and short shapes, tubes, flat shapes or sheets, miniature shapes for soup, those meant to be filled or stuffed, and specialty or decorative shapes.

a brief history of pasta

Although popular legend claims Marco Polo introduced pasta to Italy following his exploration of the Far East in the late 13th century, pasta can be traced back as far as the 4th century B.C., where an Etruscan tomb showed a group of natives making what appears to be pasta.

The Chinese were making a noodle-like food as early as 3000 B.C.

While we do think of pasta as a culturally Italian food, it is likely the descendent of ancient Asian noodles. A common belief about pasta is that it was brought to Italy from China by Marco Polo during the 13th century. In his book, The Travels of Marco Polo, there is a passage that briefly mentions his introduction to a plant that produced flour (possibly a breadfruit tree).

The Chinese used this plant to create a meal similar to barley flour. The barley-like meal Polo mentioned was used to make several pasta-like dishes, including one described as lagana (lasagna). Since Polo's original text no longer exists, the book relies heavily on retellings by various authors and experts. This, combined with the fact that pasta was already gaining popularity in other areas of Italy during the 13th century, makes it very unlikely that Marco Polo was the first to introduce pasta to Italy.

Noodles existed in Asia long before Polo's trip to China. Archaeologists believe that central Asia is most likely the first area to have produced noodles thousands of years ago. From Asia, it traveled westward. The way it reached Europe is unclear, though there are many theoriessome believe that nomadic Arabs are responsible for bringing early forms of pasta westward. Once it reached the Mediterranean the process was refined, and durum wheat became the ingredient of choice for pasta flour because of its high gluten content and long shelf life. When durum wheat pasta is dried, it lasts indefinitely, making it a very convenient food to store. Over time, because of pastas affordability, shelf life, and versatility, it became firmly rooted in Italian culture. The warm Mediterranean climate of Italy is suited to growing fresh vegetables and herbs, which meant that Italians could get creative with a delicious variety of pasta sauces. Tomato-based sauces emerged as a favorite complement to pasta, and tomatoes remain the most popular ingredient in pasta sauce today.

Early Spanish settlers were among the first to bring pasta to America. Believe it or not, it was Thomas Jefferson that helped give pasta an initial push into popularity. During an extended stay in Paris from 1784-1789, Jefferson ate what he called macaroni back then, the word could have referred to any shape of pasta. He enjoyed the dish so much that he returned to America with two cases in tow. When his supply ran out, he sent for reinforcements via a friend from Naples.

During the late 19th century, when a large group of immigrants relocated from Italy to America (most from Naples), pasta became a common food in the states. We have been making spaghetti in America ever since.

how to make pasta from scratch

Fresh homemade pasta: Too hard? Too time consuming? Most people would assume so, just like making sourdough bread. But if you love fresh pasta, and haven’t tried making it yourself, the art and craft will absolutely captivate you! This was my pandemic activity.

And then, just think of the possibilities: use homemade pasta dough to make lasagna noodles, homemade ravioli, and pappardelle pasta. Or create your very own fettuccine and spaghetti to serve with a variety of pasta sauce recipes like my Ragù Bolognese, classic Italian basil pesto and golden butter and sage sauce. Don’t forget a dollop of fresh homemade ricotta! Once you master the process, it’s fun to explore different pasta dough variations too, like sourdough pasta or this mesmerizing spinach pasta dough (the emerald green color is stunning).

Finally, did you know homemade pasta is relatively inexpensive to make? Coming in at under $3 for the dough which feeds 4 ppl at least, fresh homemade pasta is the ultimate simple luxury anyone can enjoy!

a few pasta making tips

make space

Make space. You’ll need a long, clutter-free surface to roll the dough. Do not overlook this tip. Pasta sheets can measure up to 3 ft long! The kitchen table is ideal.

Use a scale

Weigh your ingredients (including the eggs). This will ensure the pasta dough is the correct texture, which is soft and pliable. If your eggs are too small, the dough will be dry and crumbly. I use this digital scale for accuracy.

Get ahead

Get ahead. Homemade pasta noodles can be made in advance and stored at room temperature, refrigerated or frozen. See storage options for more details.

Wrap it up

Wrap it up. Pasta dough dries out quickly. Keep it covered at all times. Use plastic wrap, a clean kitchen towel or an upturned bowl (the latter is my favorite).

pasta ingredients

300 g Tipo “00” Flour: this fine milled, soft wheat Italian flour creates light and tender pasta with just the right bite. Tipo 00 is the best flour for pasta making. Try Molino Grassi or Caputo pasta flour. Substitute with King Arthur all purpose flour for similar results.

3 Eggs + 1 yolk: this combination adds moisture, color and flavor to the dough. Size matters. I use US large eggs about 55-58 g each.

pasta equipment

Kitchen Aid Stand Mixer (w/ pasta attachments): If you already have one, the stand mixer can be used from start to finish. Mix and knead the dough in the bowl; use the pasta roller & cutter set to make pasta. Very convenient.

Pasta Machine: This product rolls and cuts the dough with great results. However, because it’s not electric you’ll have to crank out the dough yourself.

But before you begin, and this is super important: clear away all junk, bills, cords to nowhere etc. You’ll need a long, clutter-free work surface to spread out (kitchen table or kitchen island). Once that’s sorted, you’re ready to make pasta- the right way.

steps for making pasta

how to start the dough

The traditional way, by hand: mound the flour onto a board (or bowl). Make a well in the center; crack in the eggs. With a fork, beat the eggs together and then gradually incorporate the flour. Finish by hand to form a rough dough. If bits of flour remain (be patient, it’s a dry dough), add a few drops of water or olive oil to moisten the texture.

Cover the dough and rest for 10 minutes. This step is not mentioned in most pasta recipes but it’s key. Coming from a bread baker’s perspective the dough needs time to hydrate before kneading. It will be much softer and easier to handle!

Knead the dough for 5-7 minutes. Do this by pushing the dough forward with the heel of your hand (watch the video). The texture will be very stiff at first- it’s not bread dough! But rest assured, by the 2 minute mark it will start to soften. The goal is a soft, malleable dough with a talcum powder-like finish. When you poke it, the dough should bounce back.

Shape the dough into a ball, wrap tightly, and rest for 30 minutes at room temperature.

roll the dough into sheets

Set up your station. Dust your work surface, a sheet pan, and the pasta machine with semolina flour.

Cut the dough into 4 equal pieces; flatten one into a thin 6-8-inch oval disc (re-wrap the remaining pieces so they don’t dry out).

Send the disc through the roller on the lowest/widest setting. This is “#1” on the Kitchen Aid attachment displayed above. Now, send it through again. Tip: if using a pasta machine, refer to their specific instructions for rolling the dough. The settings are different, but the rolling process is the same.

Continue to roll the dough through settings #2-4 (2x on each setting) for fettuccine, pappardelle and tagliatelle. For ravioli, the dough needs to be thinner- go up to #5. The higher the number, the thinner the dough will become. That’s the goal. The pasta sheet is ready when it’s slightly translucent and you can see your hand underneath.

When finished, fold the pasta sheet in half, place onto a tray and cover.

Repeat the rolling process for the remaining 3 pieces of dough.

how to cut the pasta

Before cutting: I like to semi-dry the pasta sheets ever so slightly. This gives the cut pasta strands a more firm and “leathery” finish, rather than a soft and doughy feel (this helps to prevent the strands from sticking together later on).

To semi-dry: Hang the pasta sheets over the back of a chair or on a rod for about 5-15 minutes. Keep your eye on the time; you don’t want the sheets to dry out completely. Touch them occasionally. You will feel the difference in texture as time goes by.

To cut: Take a pasta sheet and cut in half. Send it through the cutter attachment. I used the fettuccini shape above.

Dust the pasta noodles liberally with semolina flour to prevent sticking- don’t skimp here. Coil the pasta around your hand to create a nest or arrange the strands loosely on a tray.

Repeat the cutting process for the remaining pasta sheets.

TIP: How to Cut Pasta By Hand. Take a pasta sheet, fold it in half, and then fold it over

how to store fresh pasta

Cover well floured pasta on a tray with plastic wrap. Alternatively, transfer pasta to an airtight container. Leave at room temperature if cooking within 1-2 hours or refrigerate until ready to cook, up to 12 hrs. It’s best to cook homemade pasta on the same day it’s made, otherwise it might oxidize, discolor and stick together if chilled past 24 hrs.

freezing fresh pasta

Allow the pasta to air-dry, uncovered, for 15-20 minutes before transferring to the freezer. This helps to prevent sticking. Portion into ziptop bags and freeze, up to 1 month. Cook directly from frozen, no need to defrost first.

cooking fresh pasta

Always taste it. The texture should be al dente (soft but with a bite). When finished, use tongs to transfer the pasta to its final destination: the sauce.

Add the pasta to a large pot of boiling water. Make sure to generously salt it first. I don’t give exact amounts for the salt- it all depends on the sauce you’re pairing the pasta with. Cooking time will depend on the thickness of your pasta, anywhere from 2-7 minutes.

what is "al dente"?

Literally translated as 'to the tooth', al dente is an Italian term used to describe the ideal consistency of pasta (and rice) when cooked. Al dente pasta is firm when bitten without being hard or chalky. Italians call pasta that has been cooked until soft 'stracotto' (overcooked).

stuffed and filled pastas

Filled pasta or stuffed pasta is pasta, usually sealed, surrounding a variety of fillings. Such pasta is especially common in non-tropical regions of Eurasia. Examples of filled pasta include ravioli and tortellini.

The pasta wrappers are usually fresh pasta, but dried pasta can be used if the wrapper is not sealed. Premade filled pasta for mass consumption is often pasteurized to set the dough structure.

While ravioli and tortellini are the most commonly enjoyed stuffed pastas in the United States, there is a whole array of delicious stuffed pastas that you can easily make at home. From manicotti to mezzelune to agnolotti, knowing all the potential pasta options will give you a better understanding of what to cook and enjoy. And you can fill stuffed pasta with a whole lot more than just ricotta cheese — the possibilities are nearly limitless.

While most types of fresh stuffed pasta are reasonably simple to make, they require a bit of extra time and effort compared to boiling up a pot of noodles like spaghetti or angel hair. However, as is true with most things, the more effort you put in, the better it will turn out — and, well, the better it will taste.

videos on making pasta

How to Make 29 Handmade Pasta Shapes With 4 Types of Dough | Handcrafted | Bon Appétit

In this episode of Handcrafted (fka Beautiful Butchery), the Pastaio of Eataly Flatiron, Luca D'Onofrio, shows Bon Appétit how to turn four types of pasta dough -- egg pasta dough, spinach pasta dough, cuttlefish squid ink pasta dough, and semolina pasta dough -- into beautiful, handmade pasta shapes.

The Best Way To Make Pasta From Scratch | Epicurious 101

Professional chef and culinary instructor Frank Proto returns with another Epicurious 101 class, this time teaching you how to make restaurant-quality pasta at home - from scratch. Sure, it can be a little more convenient to buy a box of pasta from the supermarket. With a few simple ingredients and a little technique though, you could be having so much more. And you know what? You deserve it.

Picking The Right Pasta For Every Sauce | Epicurious

Pro chef Adrienne Cheatham returns to Epicurious to break down which pasta best complements the sauce of any recipe. From the tiny dimpled surface of orecchiette and rice-like orzo to long layered sheets of lasagna, learn when, why, and how to pick the right pasta your next time in the kitchen.

Pasta | Basics with Babish

Pasta - one of the most beautiful and elegant dishes you can make in your kitchen. Learn how to make pasta from scratch, by hand, as well as two ways to utilize the fettuccine: aglio e olio and cacio e pepe.

How Grannies Make Fresh Pasta In The Streets Of Bari, Italy

Hidden in the streets of Bari, Italy is a small alley where a dozen grannies make fresh pasta by hand every day. They have been there for decades, carrying forward a tradition passed down over generations.

Today, Via Arco Basso, the alley where they live and work, has become a rite of passage for tourists and locals looking for great pasta and a breath of authenticity. One of the grannies, Nunzia Caputo, shows us how she makes Bari's most emblematic pasta shape: orecchiette with semolina flour.

in conclusion

Americans eat a staggering 6 Billion pounds of pasta every year, with the majority of that being dried. In order to keep up with the hungry, pasta-loving appetites, commercial factories have had to use huge machines to completely automate the process of creating pasta. Most commercially-dried pasta contains only two ingredients: semolina flour and water. Giant silos that hold up to 150,000 pounds of semolina flour are the starting point of the process; pipes from the silos move the flour into a mixing machine, in which warm water is piped in. From there it’s taken via conveyor belt to be rolled, flattened, pasteurized, and cut (read the details of the entire process here). While admittedly this is an impressive process that manages to feed a lot of people, it simply can’t compare to small batches of pasta that is artisanal created and dried by humans.

Beyond the emotional association with eating fresh pasta, some chefs say it’s better to work with when making stuffed pasta, like ravioli and cannelloni. Because it’s less porous than dried pasta, fresh pasta should be reserved for use with lighter sauces — like cream-based or butter and sage sauces. It also requires less cook time than dried pasta.

As for dried pasta, the advantages are plenty. One stand-out advantage is that the pasta will be always available, in perfect condition, with its impeccable taste. For example, say you make an egg pasta at home. If that fresh egg pasta stays in the fridge for more than a few days, you must throw it away because it has such a short expiration date. This happens in restaurants, too. The restaurant manager advertises a fresh egg pasta, but then the Sous Chef gets busy and doesn’t have time to make it.

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