the world of focaccia 

Bread is the most popular food in the world, occupying an important place in every civilization. It is recognized in every culture as being perfect for human nourishment, and a symbol for life.

Focaccia is a salty, olive oil soaked, flat, baked, bread that is both chewy and crisp. Its name, panis focacius meaning “hearth bread”, referring to the fact that it was traditionally baked in coals. It derives from the Latin focus having the double meaning of “centre” and “fireplace”.

Focaccia is recognized the world over, going by various denominations, its origins date back to ancient Rome, where a flat bread made from a simple mixture of flour, water, olive oil and salt was cooked in ashes.  Once baked, it was torn by hand and dipped in soups, as an inexpensive, yet filling meal, particularly for labourers of that time. 

As the Romans began expanding their empire to France and Spain, they brought focaccia with them, spreading its popularity across continental Europe. The bread was mostly a poor man’s meal, baked to feed slaves and peasants. While it may have carried the stigma of being a slave aliment, it has become one of today’s most popular provisions.  Whether the fougasse of France, the fugazza of Argentina or the hogaza of Spain, it is known and adored in Italy and abroad. 

In Italy there are several cities and regions specializing in the production of focaccia with Liguria reigning in this area. Here it is eaten at breakfast, as a snack, always warm and as a general substitute for bread.  There are number of focaccia variants in this Northern region which include: the Fugassa of Genova which is made from flour, water and beer yeast and is cooked in olive oil and is characteristically about 2 cm thick (any thicker than this and it is no longer a focaccia Genovese or Ligure); the Sardenaira from Sanremo that is traditionally flavored with sardines and anchovies and the Focaccia al Formaggio from Recco which is laced with stracchino cheese. 

In Tuscany it is referred to as schiacciata, which means, “squashed”.  Fingers are used to flatten it; hence the attractive dimples, with a sprinkling of olive oil all over its surface. Traditionally Tuscan focaccia is medium thick and medium soft but crispy on the outside. Salt and rosemary are its usual companions.  However, throughout Tuscany you can also find a thin and crispy version as well thick and very soft. Tuscan panini with cheese and cold cuts often use focaccia for a base. 

Focaccia is related to pizza; however, it is not considered one and the same. They are both generally made with the same ingredients: flour, oil, water, yeast and salt. The primary difference is how much yeast is added to the dough and therefore how much the dough is able to rise. Focaccia uses more yeast, which gives it a lighter, fluffier texture than a traditional pizza dough. It is also crucial to allow focaccia dough ample time to rise.

Before baking, the dough is pricked with a fork or other tined utensil preventing the formation of air bubbles and pockets, giving it a distinctive pinhole crust.  Olive oil is then spread over the dough, as a way to preserve moisture in the bread and herbs and cheeses are often combined into the raw mix to enhance its flavor profile. Focaccia requires a very hydrated dough, which is what gives it a soft texture. So, it’s all the more important to ensure that it does not dry out. That’s why it’s kept in the refrigerator covered with a few drops of oil and rises at room temperature under another veil of oil. The dough should also be worked with wet or oiled hands.  The dough should be allowed to proof again prior to baking to create an airy and light texture.